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Richard Hamilton

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Everything posted by Richard Hamilton

  1. I haven't done it myself - I just extraced that section from the ImpactBumper.com post. From what I can make out, you have to be brave! I have taken the motor out to lubricate the bearings, but I didn't have to take the fan off. If the motor has the same Bosch part number it will be identical.
  2. I imagine it is the same for all early 911's. This is from an '84 wiring diagram: 53A is the red wire.
  3. Taken from this thread: http://www.impactbumpers.com/forum/index.php?/topic/23653-no-fresh-air-fan/?p=266487 "Just done this myself. Its quick and easy. I wd40'd the join between the motor shaft and plastic fan then put the assembly on a workmate opened just enough to let the motor through as I drifted it down and out with a small hammer and punch. The plastic held up without a problem. I pressed the new motor shaft into the fan after cleaning lubricant off (I used my workmate and an appropriate sized socket to press as I don't have a large enough vice). **Measure the amount of shaft poking through so you can get the replacement in the same location as the clearances in the housing are quite tight**" Edit: I'll also add - make sure you secure the drain tube on the housing before you finish the job.
  4. I think you should also check the crankshaft position sensor. If it can't pick up a reference point when cranking it won't fire the coils.
  5. Hi Robert I did reply to your PM via the email address you provided, with a wiring diagram. This is what I said: Hi Robert DO NOT connect the wire between instrument cluster and DME. If you do, it will blow the cruise circuit in the DME. I have attached a diagram, which shows the connections you need to make. Yours is DME7.2. DME7.8 was introduced for Model Year 2003.on the Boxster. Personally, I would use the VW Repair Wires shown, and extend them, as they are a perfect fit in the DME and cruise stalk plugs, and much easier than crimping. The order type is 986321 for a RHD 986S, by the way. If you are anywhere near me (Maidenhead, Berks) I would be happy to code it for you. Atb Richard
  6. The yellow plug, pin 6, should be giving you the 12v+ switched feed to wake up the amp when the radio is turned on. I would check that the CDR220 is giving you the switched 12v+. According to the connection diagram in post#1, C6 shows as "Not assigned".
  7. I think M680 for model year 2001 was the Digital Sound Processor - not an amplifier. DSP is an equaliser-type thing, located at the very bottom of the centre console.
  8. All the gauges have conventional bulb backlighting. Some people use LEDs to make them a bit brighter. It is worth putting a fuse in the backlighting circuit, as they are not fused at all. I don't think the a/c controls are backlit. If they are, mine don't work either!
  9. You ren't the first to ask: http://www.renntech.org/forums/topic/38574-please-identify-dangling-molex-connector/?p=203867 Best guess is some kind of diagnostic connection.
  10. There is no need to disconnect the battery to reset the adaption settings in the DME after changing the MAF. Just switch on the ignition for 60 seconds, then switch it off for at least 10 seconds. As said, don't touch the throttle pedal during this procedure.
  11. Trouble is, all the switches are momentary contact - they are not simple on/off toggle switches. That's why you'll need something like a latching relay. I can't remember who created the attached diagram, but I think it was Peter Smith(?), and posted by Tool Pants, many moons ago. Hopefully you will find it useful. Latching relay for momentary contact switches.pdf
  12. Speedo signal comes from the ABS controller, and tachometer from the DME, so I think you are chasing two issues. Have you unplugged the instrument cluster? You have to be careful to insert the plugs and lock the levers properly.
  13. When a cluster is coded, there is an option to enable the TPMS section in the display. The original cluster must have been incorrectly coded at some time. Whoever coded the new cluster did it properly!
  14. If it has worked in the past, I doubt it is the cable or software. It sounds like one or both of the diagnosis lines aren't connecting. Have you checked the tiny connector pins in the KTS card? They can be a bit fragile, and can bend, or at worst, break off.
  15. Will it connect to any control modules at all? How about the cable? Original Porsche cable, or Chinese offering?
  16. L just means "Lack" - German for Paint. L92U is Arctic Silver.
  17. I meant on the outside of the screen - I was assuming it might be a loose rubber seal on the outside that is vibrating in the air flow. Perhaps I've got the wrong end of the stick.
  18. Even if there was no rubber, the screen wouldn't leak, as it is bonded in. The rubber is just a filler/trim piece. Just to eliminate it as a possible source of the noise, you could temporarily stick some wide masking tape to cover the rubber (sticking to screen and body). It would stop the air getting under the leading edge of the rubber.
  19. What year is your car? Early 996s suffered from loose windscreen rubber surround trims which would cause the sort of noise you describe. There was a technical bulletin on the subject, which involved packing the seal with a foam rubber cord. May be the same on Boxsters.
  20. Loren is absolutely correct. M680 option code was used for the DSP module up to MY2001, and from then on for Bose. MY2002 M680 Bose was an analog system, and from MY2003 was the MOST digital system. M490 was the Harman (Haes) amplified sound package.
  21. Not an answer, but take a look here: http://www.renntech.org/forums/topic/38574-please-identify-dangling-molex-connector/?p=203867
  22. The phone module should be under the driver's seat on a RHD car.
  23. I think there is something getting lost in the English/Scottish/American language translation here, as I'm sure you are both talking about the same thing (Control Module) but are using different terminology. (Don't seem to be able to add smilies using my iPad, but I would if I could).
  24. +1 from me. If you can find some of Todd Holyoak's posts (tholyoak) about fitting a 3.6 engine to a 1998 Boxster, you will begin to understand the complexities. Sure, it is possible, but is it really worth the huge time and expense? If I were you I would keep it simple, and at the end of the day you will have a standard car, which will probably be worth more than a hybrid.
  25. When they introduced the PCM2.1 MY2013 map for Europe, it was compatible with the Level C operating system software (firmware). If you have been running a 2006 map or later, it shouldn't need updating. Of course, it may be different for the US, but I somehow doubt it. The update disks included with the European map set I purchased were the same as supplied with the MY2008 and MY2010 map sets. I think the updates were introduced with the 2005 or 2006 maps.
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