Richard Hamilton

Contact the seller, and I'm sure they will be able to sort you out.

The instructions for coding a new PCM unit with the old PIWIS1 tester don't show anything on VIN entry. I think it might also be something to do with the IPAS PCM code. Perhaps if you obtain the PCM code from your old unit and code that into the new one it might work. Here are the instructions for PIWIS1, in case they are of use. These are taken from POSES (2006) and quite often the PIWIS software updates change the method slightly: Coding the display and operator control unit (PCM2) Note When installing a new PCM/CDR in a vehicle, the PCM/CDR code specified in IPAS should be present. Normally, the code is stored in the instrument cluster, and is read out from the PCM/CDR. You can get the codes from IPAS or from your importer by specifying the vehicle identification number. During coding, there should be a guaranteed power supply for the PIWIS tester 9718. It is essential to connect a battery charger with a current rating of at least 40 A to the vehicle battery. The PIWIS tester 9718 instructions take precedence and in the event of a discrepancy these are the instructions that must be followed. Deviations may occur with later software versions. The procedure described here has been structured in general terms; different text or additions may appear in the PIWIS tester 9718. Note The installed components that are detected are displayed in the MOST actual installed components list. Compare the installed components detected from the MOST actual installed components list with the MOST required installed components list. 1. Connect the PIWIS tester 9718 to the vehicle and start it. Switch on the ignition. >> Continue. 2. Select the vehicle type. 3. Select PCM2 control unit and press >> . 4. Select PCM2 MMI in the PCM2 menu and press >> . 5. Select the Coding menu and press >> . 6. Select the Equipment menu and press >> . The following codings can be performed: 7. Select PCM2 code, enter data and code by pressing F8 . 8. Select Country coding and the relevant country, and code with F8 . 9. Select Vehicle type vehicle coding and code with F8 . Vehicle type vehicle coding Not coded 911 (996) Boxster (986) Cayenne 911 (997) Boxster (987) 10. Select Vehicle version vehicle coding and code with F8 . Vehicle version vehicle coding Not coded Basic model Passenger compartment roof Sunroof 11. Select Air conditioner and code with F8 . Air conditioning Without air conditioning With air conditioning 12. Select Units and code with F8 . Units RoW (°C, litre, km) UK (°C, gal, mph) USA (°F, gal, mph) 13. Select Right/left-hand drive vehicle coding and code with F8 . Right/left-hand drive vehicle coding Right-hand drive Left-hand drive 14. Select Engine version and code with F8 . Engine version Not coded V6 V8 V8 twin-turbo 15. Select Reversing camera and code with F8 . Reversing camera Not installed Installed 16. Select DVB-T at AV input of TV tuner and code with F8 . DVB-T at AV input of TV tuner Not installed Installed 17. Select AV input of TV tuner selectable and code with F8 . AV input of TV tuner selectable Not installed Installed 18. Further customer-specific settings can be selected and coded in the same way in the other four submenus (Timeouts, Porsche Assistance, Additional and Freely-selectable codes >> e.g. for Off-Road Navi, Compass, etc., codes can be found in IPAS) of the Coding menu. 19. In the menu PCM MMI, change to MOST actual installed components list; here a version installed in the vehicle (e.g. CD changer) must be displayed 20. Change to MOST required installed components list; here too the same version (e.g. CD changer) must be displayed - if this is not the case, select the version and code with F8 . 21. Read out fault memory and erase if required. 22. Use << to quit the menu PCM MMI and change to the menu PCM GW. In the menu PCM GW: 23. Select Coding and press the >> . 24. Select Production mode off and code with F8 . Production mode Production mode on Production mode off 25. Select Tuner parameters and code with F8 . Tuner parameters Europe USA South America Australia Asia (South) Africa Japan 26. Use << to quit the menu PCM. 27. Read out fault memory and erase if required. 28. PCM is now taught. 29. If the PCM/vehicle equipment does not have a DVD navigation unit, then adjust the time/date using the SET button on the PCM and in the menu PCM system. 30. For vehicle equipment with DVD navigation unit, switch on the PCM in clear surroundings (to load GPS almanac); as soon as four satellites are identified the almanac will reload. The time is updated again when there is a plausible GPS reception (four satellites). The date and time are also adopted once the GPS almanac has been loaded; it may be necessary to change over to summer time (daylight-saving time). This time is transferred to the instrument cluster. If the time is then manually changed by means of the instrument cluster, this time is adopted by the PCM and synchronised with GPS time. 31. For vehicle equipment with telephone, the telephone is enabled again when the telephone PIN code is entered with the SIM telephone card inserted. Control module replacement - PCM2 The PCM2 is provided in active production mode in new vehicles and as a spare part. Each time the vehicle is started, the stored VIN is compared with that in the instrument cluster. Provided no match is found, the device switches off after 30 seconds and the PROTECTED message appears in the display. The device is not operational. If a match is found, the device is operational. No further checks are made while the device is connected to the vehicle electrical system.

I had this with my 996 Turbo. I wanted to run the front camber at the minimum negative setting (ie most upright, but within specs). I took it to a specialist suspension guy (Center Gravity) and he said he gets this a lot. He filed out the slots a little in order to achieve the setting I wanted. In my case, the right hand strut could be adjusted without elongating the slots, but the left hand slots needed elongating by about 3mm.

A bit more info on model and year would help, but it sounds like the radio amplifier to me.

I think you might find it by selecting LIMIT on the OBC with the lower left hand stalk. From memory, you push the lever forward, and then move it up/down to scroll the options. Select LIMIT by pushing it forward again.

Passenger seat on the OP's right hand drive car.

I think you will need to get it hooked up to a Porsche PST2 or PIWIS tester to be able to diagnose it properly. It would enable you to see if the alarm control unit is recognising the remote signal, and you can also check the other inputs to the system to see what isn't functioining correctly. It isn't damp under the left hand (passenger) seat by any chance? If you are anywhere near me, I'd be happy to run the tests for you.

The battery in the key - not the car battery! ;)

No, it won't play mp3 CDs. It is a hardware issue, not software. The feature was introduced during MY2006.

You shouldn't have any problems connecting it to the diagnostic line. You would need to have it connected to use the calibration routine with PST2 or PIWIS. But well done!

On mine, with PCM with extended Sport Chrono, I can change some of the preferences for each key (Climate, DRL, Lights off, etc). Go to the main Menu, press the Set button, and choose Individual Memories.

--------------------------------------------------- Absolutely! Good result!

-------------------------------------- 000.043.205.46.005 (superceded by 007) is the Repair CD for the single CD drive to cure playback issues. (Campaign W601). I wouldn't have thought it would brick the unit, because it was intended for MY05 and MY06 cars. You are correct that your unit was at level B, and they should have only needed to use update CD 000.044.901.40 to get it to Level C for the new maps. Try the 1-4-8 reset.

It should have only needed the Level C update. Have you tried a system reset? Press the 1, 4, and 8 buttons at the same time.

There is a small plastic gear in the speedometer which is prone to breaking, which could be your problem. I have a DIY repair sheet which was in our club magazine. If you drop me a PM with your email address I'll send you a copy. Edit: or this might help: http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-technical-forum/196987-odometer-gear-replacement-electronic-speedometers-long.html

Like JFP, I was fortunate enough to receive a copy of the Bentley 993 Service Manual for review, so here are my ramblings on the same subject! Having owned a 1994 993 Coupe (my first Porsche), I was looking forward to receiving this manual and doing this review. It is the first Bentley manual I have owned, and my initial impression was that it is much bigger than I was expecting! The physical qualities of the book are very good, and it is well indexed, making it easy to find what you are looking for. The images and illustrations are excellent, and each procedure is covered in a logical, step-by-step manner which is easy to follow. Being fortunate enough to have the factory manuals there are inevitable comparisons to be made, and the structure of the Bentley manual broadly mirrors the factory Repair Groups layout. Those of you who already have Bentley manuals will recognise the familiar format: The purpose of this article is to review the manual, not to check all the content, so although I haven't read every word, I have looked through various sections in more detail from the perspective of an owner who would be using it for Do-It-Yourself tasks. What immediately sprung to mind on first viewing was that the manual is very much focussed on the US market. There are several differences which may confuse Rest of World 993 owners. For example, service intervals on RoW cars are 12/24000 miles (20/40000km) rather than the 15/30000 quoted. Also, all RoW 993 N/A Carreras retained DME2.1 throughout the production period. Only the US & Canada cars changed to DME5.2 in 1996 do achieve OBD2 compliance. Hence, RoW Carreras never had post-cat O2 sensors. Also, the security devices and remote controls are region specific for most RoW cars. For example, UK cars were fitted with UK-made immobilisers by the dealers prior to delivery. Another small thing is that the VIN decoder doesn’t show the WP0ZZZ format of the RoW cars. Having said all that, these are minor issues, as long as the owner is aware. Starting at the Maintenance section, I noticed an obvious mistake in the way the oil level is measured. The manual says to run the engine until warm, switch off, wait 3 minutes, and check the level. This might be appropriate for the M96 and M97 engines, but certainly not for the 993, which like all the aircooled engines has a dry sump. Bentley were quick to react when I notified them, and made a wiki page to show the correction: https://wiki.bentleypublishers.com/x/1gBWBw and a PDF of the corrected page is available to download from there. What makes this publication so much nicer to use than the factory manual is the extensive use of photographs to illustrate the repair procedures. Doing so means that descriptions are condensed, and sometimes unnecessary. For most DIYers, we just need pointing in the right direction, and use our own common sense methods to get the task done. The manual does this well, and also provides the detail when you need it, or get stuck. Here are a few photos to show what I mean: Again, comparing to the factory manuals, pretty much everything is covered, and certainly much more than most DIYers will ever need. Engine rebuilding is covered in some detail, but I noticed that there was nothing on rebuilding the gearbox. If you are like me, and find gearbox rebuilds something of a mysterious 'black art', then it probably won't be an issue. Engines I can master - gearboxes are something I leave to those with the knowledge! Particularly useful is the section on interior and trim removal and installation. Items such as door cards, centre console, seats and other trim are covered, again with excellent photos and diagrams. Apart from door glass, other glazing isn't covered. Understandably, front and rear screen removal is a specialist job as they are bonded in, but it would have been good to see the rear side window removal and installation. Having done this myself (to replace the lower black trims which had corroded), it just requires a sealant rather than adhesive, and I felt it was a task that other DIYers could achieve. Also included in the manual are OBD diagnostic information sheets and a set of wiring diagrams, making the whole thing a very comprehensive package. Overall, a great product, and to my mind a "must have" for the serious enthusiast. It isn't cheap, with a cover price of $219.95, but in my opinion it represents good value for money. Currently, there is a special offer, so be quick!

As Loren says, model and year would be helpful. Do you get a warning message before it shuts down? If you are seeing "PCM Switch Off Protection - Over Temperature" it may be that you have the wrong map disk inserted. Of course, it may genuinely overheating. Can you hear the cooling fan running?

The wear sensors are in a loop, running from the instrument cluster, via each sensor, and back to the cluster. A break in the circuit, or a short to ground, will set off the warning light. It works both ways to make it failsafe. However, you need to check the pad thickness to see if they are getting low. The sensors are about 4mm diameter, so once the pads get down to that thickness they wear thru the sensor, and the circuit goes to ground. If the pads look good, check the sensor connectors, as if water gets in they corrode, and the loop goes open circuit.

I know you are from the UK, so if you are anywhere near me I'd be happy to code it for you. Drop me a PM if I can help.

No good removing the horn fuse - the alarm has a separate horn. It may also have a separate siren and tilt sensor if the option was specified when new. Also, if you remove the alarm fuse, you won't be able to fully lock the car. As Loren says, a diagnostic check will tell you what is setting it off. However, the most common cause of random false alarms is a faulty interior monitoring sensor. You can disable this by double-locking the car (two turns of the key, or two pushes of the remote button). This sets the alarm, but disables the interior sensor. If you have the tilt sensor (a clear plastic unit, to the right of the battery as you look at it) check that it hasn't filled with water, which also causes false larms. You can disable this by unplugging it.

Just a thought - maybe it coincided with the introduction of the HyVo chain drive on the IM Shaft.

All RoW 993 Carreras used DME 2.1 throughout the model history. They did not have post-cat O2 sensors or secondary air injection, as they were not OBD2 compliant.

Did you check the plug and socket near the door hinges? Early Boxsters suffered from corroded pins and sockets. thom4782 has good avice, but I think you would need to put everything back to standard before getting a diagnostic check done. A test with a PST2 or PIWIS might have better functionality than the Durametric on the alarm module. Check out the tools registry, as there is likely to be a RennTech member in your area who has one.

Most people who want older versions are those with clone cables.

Perhaps an IMS Guardian might put your mind at ease. It gives you some warning that the bearing is failing by detection of metal particles from the bearing cage before it breaks up completely.