Tool Pants

I am a Boxstir guy so I have no clue since our top is 100% electric. But I did know that that at least part of the 996 top system is hydraulic. So I got curious. The 996 part number for the 250 ml container is 000 043 204 89. On the 996 part list it does not tell you who makes it. But if you do a search on the part number it is also used on the Carrera CT for the rear spoiler, with the words VITAMOL ZH-M next to the part number. And I thought the CGT spoiler was electric. Do a google search for those words. I came back with the company name Aral from German with a .de address but there is also a .com address. http://www.aral-lubricants.de/ http://www.aral-lubricants.com/lubricants/com Brake/clutch, power steering, and the tip transmission all use hydraulic fluids. But it looks like there is some special stuff for the top.

Ok, so now I'm going to tell all the concours judges that you do not have the original engine so you will lose points. :P Peter left greasy finger prints on the replacement engine just so you would have something to do this weekend. I hope the PCNA warranty test center in Atlanta looks at your original engine before it is sent back to Germany. Since it is so clean maybe they will mount it on a stand and put it in the lobby.

I was a history major so I can say this. Let's say your devices draw 9 amps and you are using the cell phone connector which has a 7.5 amp fuse and that fuse keeps blowing. Can you replace the 7.5 with a 10 amp fuse and not fry the wires. I think you can get away with it. I put in air horns. The compressor requires a 20 amp fuse with a 30 amp relay on a dedicated circuit. I was to lazy to wire it up. The oem electric horns have a 25 amp fuse with a 40 amp relay. For the air horns I tapped into the electric horn circuit. So all horns go through the 25 amp fuse and the 40 amp relay. The first time I hit the horn button I expected the fuse to blow or the relay to melt. Instead it has worked for 2 years. If the 25 amp fuse had blown I probably would have tried a 30 amp fuse. There is also an unused fuse slot in the fuse box. Porsche says it is rated at a max of 5 amps. I would put a 7.5 amp fuse there. So now the EE majors can flame away.

I don't think the base Boxster with a tip has the transmission cooler in the front. Just the S.

Why are you asking questions about a potential problem you do not have. Want to hook up a microwave oven. Toaster.

Well, since I know Gary, the owner of the car, and Peter the shop foreman who replaced his engine, and Dennis who is the director of service and parts at Stevens Creek Porsche..... And since Gary has plastered the message boards with pictures of his old and new engines. But not on RennTech.org. :P And he picked up his car yesterday. And since his pictures had the Snap-On roll-aways used by mechanics Peter and Manny who work at Stevens Creek Porsche in the background. I knew where to look for his sheet. And since Gary took 1/2 hour away from our tech session at Stevens Creek in April so that his Q-tip session could start at 10:00 am. :angry: And so.... I will let Gary explain. :blink:

The fuse for that circuit is 7.5 amps. I can't imagine that all of your 3 devices draw that much current even if all 3 are on at the same. Electrical devices usually have a sticker to tell you the current draw. If it is beyond the rating of the fuse then the fuse blows.

Palo Alto is about 20 minutes away from me. I contacted them about 3 years ago and they could not get parts to fix a VDO electronic cluster. I also contacted Hollywood and another speedometer shop in Southern California and got the same answer. No parts. I hope this has changed because I have a 996 cluster with a bad LCD display I bought off ebay to put on my Boxster 3 years ago that is still sitting in a box.

My friend owns a body shop and he has been in the business 30 years. He painted my artic silver humps about 4 years ago. He wanted my car in the shop to match the paint, and did not want to mix the paint just from the color code. He has a guy with a good eye who does all the color matching. He showed me the 3 shades of sliver on my car that I never noticed. I had him match it to the clamshell since the humps sit on the clamshell. He has groups of chips for all different colors. He had a stack of about 30 chips just for silver. There is a hole in the middle of each chip. They put the chip on the panel and you see the original color through the hole. I think there was info on the back of the chip to tell them how to change the standard aric silver paint code a bit to match the actual silver on my car. They go through the chips until they find a match. My humps were a perfect match after they were painted. He also has a thing that looks like a radar gun. You hold it against the panel and it tells you how to mix the paint. For some reason he does not like it. Somewhere I think Loren has posted instruction on how to remove the gas flap lid, so see if you can find it. You could always remove the clamshell and bring it to the shop. It is just 6 nuts. Mark the location of the nust first so you can put it back where they were.

There was a Boxster owner with a manual transmission who wanted a 996 cluster so he could have the 2 additional gauges. He put in a 996 cluster that came from a tip car. It worked. The only thing is the gear indicators did not work of course. Cannot see any reason why it would be different with a 996.

I took a picture of the medical report for Gary's old engine today.

Have you looked at the DIY section. Have you used the search function.

http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?s...=4401&hl=mintex

Mark is the timing expert so I hope he sees your message. I recently tried to time my transmissions and the clamshell locked down in the down position and would not move when I pressed either side of the switch. So I was off on the timing. I contacted Mark for help but he moved a little bit out of the area so I went to my dealer and took the following 3 pictures so that I would know the position of the V levers in case I would give it a second try before I could get together with Mark. I have not had the "time" to try a second "time." :P I have never seen a top run in reverse, so this is a guess. The V lever has a male ball joint screwed into one end of the lever for the push rod that operates the clamshell. The other end of the V lever has a bolt for the push rod with the plastic end for the roof. So there are 2 push rods attached to the V lever. Do you have these push rods reversed? Or, was your V levers bolted to the transmissions so that they are 180 degrees off? These are the 3 pictures I took at my dealer of a Boxster if I was going to give a second shot by myself. You can see the position of the roof, the clamshell, and that the V levers are pointing down. From what you said your roof is in about the same position in my pic but your pic shows the V lever facing up. My guess is that you are 180 degrees off with something. Either the V levers were bolted on so that they are 180 degrees off. Or the the push rods were put on the wrong ends of the V lever which would also make you 180 degrees off. Or you have both situations. At least this is my best guess.

Does the roof go up and down and work properly otherwise. Does the top warning light go on and off when you operate the top.

In the link the cluster pod is still connected to the car via the hazard switch wiring harness. Hard to take a cluster apart that way. That is not the way we do it. We remove the cluster from the car and then work on it on a bench.

This is a new one for me. What is the model year for your car, not the registration year. Do you know if you have the new or old style top transmissions. Did you remove what we call the V levers that are bolted to the transmissions. What parts did you replace and why did you need to replace what was replaced. Does the roof go up and down and work properly otherwise. Now for my silly question. The switch is oval. There is a raised part of the oval button and a recessed part. Which end of the switch do you press when you want the roof to go up.

Come to the next work on cars days and I'll swap changers with you. It takes 5 minutes to remove the changer. I also have the radio removal tools. If my changer works in your car then it is your head. If your changer does not work in my car then it is your changer.

The Pelican guy was not sure if you had the deactivation bar that bolts to the front seat rails, or just the child seat. You can unbolt the bar if you have it. You should use the E12 female torx socket if you have it. The bolts are a bit longer because of the thickness of the bar. You should include the longer bolts. Then find out what happened to your original bolts, or buy new ones. There is also a 2 wire electrical connector to disconnect. The new owner will then have to have the air bag system programmed to tell it the bar is there and to disable the air bags when it is buckled. I have no clue if you need to do the same once the bar is removed. Not my pic.

This might be a small world. A Boxster owner on the pelican board wanted to know if this would work on his Boxster. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAP...TRK%3AMEWA%3AIT The child seat deactivation bar/buckle is the same for 996/986 so I told him yes. Is that your auction?

Almost 2 years after this topic started it was time to follow my own advice with my January 1997 with the original unreinforced cables. Before shows that I have just about 1/4" sticking out past the top of the ferrules. Not good. After I removed the ferrule and shortened the plastic housing. Now I have 3/4" sticking out. I used the heat method to remove the ferrule from the plastic housing. It takes very little heat and effort to pull it off. I wish I had a smaller heat source. I used the propane torch at the lowest setting. Very little heat for a split second is all it takes to pull the ferrule off. Don't melt the plastic with too much heat. I used a vise on top of the engine lid to hold the housing steady because I was working by myself and did not have a third hand to take pictures. I used the needle nose vise grips simply because I could clamp the ferrule and take a picture of the tool. Measure how much of the plastic housing you need to remove to end up with 3/4" of the drive cable sticking out past the ferrule. I put masking tape to mark where I want the bottom of the ferrule to end up when I put it back on the housing so that I end up with 3/4". With the ferrule and tape as a guide I know how much of the housing to cut and remove. Pulling off the cut housing. The ferrule has been put back on the now shorter cable with the help of very little heat. I stopped when the bottom of the ferrule touched the masking tape.

Just lubricated the slides. I had a tube of the grease that comes with a B&M shift install so I used that. I think it is plain lithium grease, which I have also used in the past.

Some of the local 996/986 owners have done this. It is just 3 wires and a dash switch. If you do not want to make your own harness then you can buy one from Patrick who is a local Boxster owner. http://www.boxsey.com/

I forgot. The mechanic said he shoves a wedge in there so he can fish with a tool. I have a slim jim that would work. Maybe try a coat hanger.

I know of just one way to center the clamshell. The support arm on each side has 3 nuts. Loosen all 6 nuts and you can move the clamshell a bit in all directions.