Tool Pants

As I said before, this is not easy on a MOST car. KarlS did it on a 2004 GT3 but he did not have the amp in the trunk. There are 2 versions of the CDR-23. One that has an intermal amp and one that has the external amp in the trunk. Karl had the internal amp version. You have the external amp version. http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?s...;hl=traffic+pro One thing that was talked about then was to program the car with the PST2 to tell the car that there was no radio. The other thing I remember was how to get your 12 volts from the iginition switch. Back then I suggested the cell phone connector. I do not now how Karl resolved this issue.

That is smart. For $82 you end up with clear headlights and do not have to do an amberectomy because your Boxster amber headlights have a clear lense for the turn signal bulb. And with the silver bulb that flashes amber you still have amber flashing turn signals. If you still have the covers for the amber headlights you might take some pictures so people can see that the amber portion of the headlight is solid amber plastic and not an amber coating.

Got fans....

I do not know why your V-lever is bent. It could be from when you separated the joints for the black push rods for the clamshell. That joint can be under a lot of tension/pressure and I have see a broken V-lever that resulted from using a pry bar to separate the joint. You can upload pictures directly to Renntech. When you post a message you should see a Browse button that you click on and then find the picture on your computer. Then you click on UPLOAD and when you use the Add Reply button your message and picture(s) are on Renntech.

Your pictures are very small. Due to the twisted/tweaked clamshell you have the typical top failure. One side of the top was moving, but not the other side. This is usually because one cable is being turned by the transmission and the other cable is not. The needed repairs have been covered several times already in the top section of this board. Your clamshell is not tweaked bady so get a friend and twist it back into shape - how to do this has already been covered. Replace all bent or broken parts. Hard to tell for sure but the left V-lever does look bent. I assume you broke at least one red plastic joint. Scott Levy is the guy who came up with the metal joints sold by KLA - he is a 944 guy. Scott and I traded emails years ago when he wanted to know if there was a market for metal joints. And the use of oem plastic or metal joints has been debated here before. All that KLA sells is the joint. There is no pushrod or V-lever included like in the picture on their site. Scott was of the opinion that the top can fail because the plastic joint get brittle from the heat and the plastic joint is the first part to break. My experience is that the joint breaks only after something else first fails. My clamshell was tweaked like yours but I did not break a joint - in fact I did not break or bend any other parts. Mine failed because 1 cable was not turning and I caught it quickly (I get out of the car to do the chop) so all I did was to tweak the clamshell. You have any easy fix. If the V-lever is bent then replace it rather than playing around with it. If you have broken plastic red joints then get the white plastic joints from the dealer. It takes 5 seconds to twist your clamshell back into shape - you will still have the dimples but a dent guy can take them out. This is the metal joint that is being sold.

If you have not already found it. Once you are able to get the cluster away from the dash a bit you will see a connector for the mic.

The local owners have put in a lot of the B&M units over the years and never cracked the plastic housing. What I notice in your picture is that the front blue aluminum shell for the white plastic bushing is not located correctly. The shell has a groove at the bottom that matches a key on the plastic housing. The front shell is off by about 80 degrees in your picture. The rear shell looks fine. This is actually common because when you tighten the lock nut for the front bushing the shell likes to rotate and jump the key. With pliers rotate the front bushing shell so that it is positioned correctly and see if that closes the crack. You want the groove to face down. You can feel the grove with your finger. Also in your pic looks like the 2 left side clips for the boot are missing, but that has nothing to do with your question.

The V-lever is supposed to be flat. You can see in the picture that the top V-lever is bent. In fact, I think the bottom one was also bent but not as much.

At the hardware store today I looked at the gator grip. There was only one size. Model ETC-120 that is 1/4"-3/4" or 7mm-19mm. This one is too small to fit over the head of a locking wheel bolt. The website shows a model ETC-125 called the king gator. The range on that one is 12mm-32mm. The head of a locking wheel bolt is about 25mm. So....? Wish I could get my hands on a ETC-125 to see if it would work.

As stated, take it to the dealer. They have a set of all 30. I removed my locking wheel bolts years ago and replaced them with standard wheel bolts.

On 2003-2004 with Bose it was called audio pilot. That little mic is to adjust the radio.

http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?s...052&hl=tube

This has never been seen before....

If you have the broken end of the shaft you might try to pin them together. Might also ask the mechanics at your dealership if they have been saving them from warranty replaced instrument clusters.

Most use the footwell switch. Within the past 2 weeks I turned on the OBC for 2 new local owners, both with a 2001. Tony aka bt408 is from San Jose. JAG aka Joe is from Mountain View. Both are on the 986forum. Joe wants to do it with the switch and I think Tony wants to do it with the stalk. You might want to contact them and the 3 of you can do the retrofit together.

If you do it with the switch then you buy 1 VW wire, which you then cut in half. It is the yellow wire in the picture. Then the cut VW wire is extended with normal wire to your switch. A third, normal wire, goes from the switch to ground.

http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?s...33&hl=Peter

This is true. Aftermarket oiled filters such as BMC and K&N do not have a layer of foam. Some people who put them in think they have more power because the induction sound is louder. The 996 series cars do not have a layer of foam because their intakes are in the rear of the car. On the other hand the intake on a Boxster is right next to your left ear.

http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?s...;hl=traffic+pro Trying to use a non CDR23 radio in a 2003-2004 is a pain due to MOST. The CDR23 communicates to the amp (and cd changer if you have that) via fiber optics. The CDR23 does not have a conventional 12 volts from the ignition when it is turned on. KarlS put in traffic pro but he has a GT3 that does not have the amp, and he ran into problems. But I think he finally got it to work. So if you want to use the traffic pro we use for 1997-2002 in a 2003-2004 then you will run into problems and it is not plug and play.

On a cluster with plastic stems the stems are easy to swap, if you can find a stem from a donor that is not broken. The end of the stem fits into a switch, but the stem is not part of the switch like it is in a metal stem cluster. So, this is a different design then a metal stem cluster. I did not try to remove the metal shaft switch from the board. As stated, my cluster turned out to also have a bad LCD display so there was no point in trying to replace the switch.

Someone did this. Cayman front and rear bumper covers on a 987. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAP...0084&rd=1,1

Richard was correct and you are lucky. Next time I am at the local dealer I'll try to take a picture of this plug. Strange that this seems to be a UK thing.

Porsche calls it the returnless system. It started in model year 2002. Prior to that time the fuel went in a loop. Fuel was pumped from the tank to the engine. Unused fuel then returned to the tank. The fuel coming back to the tank was therefore heated during the trip to the engine. With the returnless system only the fuel that is needed is pumped to the engine.

When I hear that the oil has dumped on the ground I think an intermediate shaft failure. The shaft has a threaded end with a bolt on it. When this shaft shears then you are left with a round hole for the oil to pour out. But that does not sound like what happened to your car. Richard may be right about the plug. There are reports of this on the UK message boards. For some reason I do not see these reports on the US boards and I have never seen this plug being replaced at the Porsche dealer. If you are lucky it might just be the plug.

For your radio, try Becker. http://www.beckerautosound.com/