Tool Pants

There are 2 radiators in the front of the car. Each radiator has a fan. The fan has a high and low speed. Each fan has 2 relays, one for high and the other for low. Each fan has one fuse. C8 is the fuse for the right fan, and C10 is the fuse for the left. In the fuse box you see 5 rows of fuses. C8 and C10 are in the 3rd row. C8 is the 8th fuse and C10 is the 10th, counting from left to right. As the engine gets hot the low speed comes on. As the engine gets very hot the high speed comes on. If you turn the a/c on then both fans come on in the high speed, no matter what the engine temp is. This is because the a/c cars have a condensor stuck to each fan and the a/c condensor cools the hot a/c refrigerant via the fans. Start the car when the engine is cold. Go to the front of the car and you should not hear any fans. Then turn on the a/c and go to the front of the car again. Both fans should be on in high speed. If the fuses check out then the relay tray is under the dash above the steering wheel. Picture shows the 4 relays. All 4 are the same so you can swap them around.

Here are the 2 methods I use and I did not have to buy a spreader.

A little late. The instrument cluster was taken apart to replace the incandescent bulbs with blue LEDs.

My adjustable wrench looks like it would be a little gentler on the plastic.

That is what I would have said, but he said the roof was down 1/2 of the way when he heard the snap. But maybe the roof had to come up a bit before the joint finally just let go.

I did this 5 years ago and did not take notes. I did not have buy anything as I have coffee cans for my nut, bolt, and washer collection. I think the air horn kit also came with hardware. Don't need to use metric stuff. Did not have to drill any holes. The bracket is about 2 feet, maybe 2 feet and a few inches. I think it is sold in 4 foot lengths, or even longer. My bumper cover was off before I started the project so I figured I had enough stuff laying around the garage. Whenever I used a bolt I used a locking washer behind it. I also used loctite. I did not want to have to remove the bumper cover if some fastner vibrated loose. I even considered using pop rivets for mounting the bracket. After you get the cover off cut the bracket. The bracket will be bolted to the mounting points for the 3rd radiator, which you and I don't have. Then you bolt the compressor and the 3 trumpets to the bracket. Then bolt the bracket to the car.

He just sells the joints, which he has made. If your clamshell moves up and down and is level then your timing should be ok and all you will need to do is replace the rod/joint. If the rod is not bent then you can just unscrew the broken joint and screw on a new joint. Count the number of turns.

In California it is 87, 89, 91. I have a 1997 that I bought in 1999, as my only car and daily driver. I have used 87 for 9 years. A few times I have tried a tank of 91 and noticed no difference. There is supposed to be a slight decrease in power, something like a few hp, but it must be so small that I can't notice it. I have 67,000 miles and have no engine problems. I have never had any pinging - there are 2 knock sensors in case you did not know.

Racking up the miles on the garage queen. Almost broken in. If you can't find it then it is missing in action, not uncommon with a used car. I got rid of the locking wheels bolts years ago and replaced them with standard bolts. When the car was new it came in a plastic bag and there was a white sticker on the bag. That sticker has the code for the wheel lock key. Also, some dealerships would write the code on the white option sticker under the front trunk lid. It is made by McGard if you can find the code. If all else fails a dealership has a complete set of all the locking keys.

I have an adjustable one something like that I use on my motorcycle. One of these days I'll have to try it out on the Boxstir. The diameter of the filter cannister is about 3" so it should work.

1997 is a 993. The Boxster and 996 4 spoke steering wheel came from the 993, so a 993 4 spoke is the same as a Boxster/996 4 spoke. Or, if you did not know, you can fix your horn plate. http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?showtopic=1728

Each LCD display has a bulb behind it. When a bulb burns out then you cannot see the display. Need to remove the instrument cluster in order to change the bulb on the back of the cluster. There are already several messages with pictures on how to do this.

This can also happen on a 986. For whatever reason the white plastic ball joint on the end of the metal push rod broke. Porsche does not sell just the plastic joint - the push rod and joint are a single part. You can get one at your OPC. Or, there is a guy who sells aftermarket joints. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAP...595622&rd=1 If you buy just the joints from the ebay guy then make sure the rod is not bent - compare it to the other side. Yours looks a little tweaked, but it could be due to the angle of the picture. The picture show the 987 rod at the top and the 986 rod on the bottom. The "good" news is that the 987 rod cost less than the 986 rod.

I spoke to one of the mechanics but he was in school and did not know off the top of his head what 21 was. He did say he has replaced a few clock springs. If it goes bad then it is the same as if you disconnected the connector on the back of the air bag, which means an air bag light, and which means the air bag will not fire.

I don't believe removing the bulb woul prevent the air bag from firing. Same if the bulb burned out. The "clock spring" goes by different names. You need to provide an electrical connection to the back of the air bag and to the steering wheel for the horn. If wires were used they would twist and could fail over time by turning the steering wheel. So the clockspring was invented.

Look for a body in the trunk??? Pic from mixster.

Saraf, if you want to scan and email me the working log I might get someone to look at it. Black out the VIN. If you were in 9,500 then you were in at least range 5. What I think is important is when did it happen in relationship to the engine failure. That is why you need to look at the engine operating hours for the 9,500 incident, and compare that number with the number for the total engine operating hours. This is an example. A local 2000 Boxster S. We went on a drive from San Jose to Santa Cruz, about an hour drive. Upon arrival in Santa Cruz we had out cars hooked up to a PST2. Engine operating hours is 1,167.2. The car got into range 1 at 1,167.1 hours. So that means the car got into range 1 on the drive. Range 1 however means nothing. Last range 2 was at 1,111 operating hours. Range 2 can damage the engine. But the last range 2 was 56.2 engine operating hours earlier. So if the engine had failed during the drive it would not be because it had been in range 2 56.2 operating hours earlier.

There is info for overrevs for the 997. http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?s...769&hl=memo I have not seen such info for the 987. I do not know how the 6 ranges for the 997 are different than a 987. I do know the 987 also has 6 ranges because I have seen it on a PIWIS hooked up to a 987. One of these days I will ask one of the mechanics for the 987 info. The 997 memo says fuel shut off it a 7,300 rpm. I assume the 987 fuel shut off is also about the same. 9,500 rpms would be in range 5 on a 997 and range 5 is 8,401-9,500. I guess the problem is your dealership can't figure out how you did that unless you missed an downshift. You could not do that upshifting under acceleration because the fuel to engine would have been cut off by the rev limiter before your rpms got high enough to damage the engine. These rpm figures are transmitted to Porsche in Atlanta. Atlanta has to authorize your dealer to replace an engine under warranty if your dealer wants to get paid. If your dealer just simply ordered a replacement engine and put it in without authorization, then your dealer or you would eat the cost. I do not know if the rev limiter was working. I do not know how you got into such a high rpm range under acceleration. I do not know if the oil pump shaft failure is related to an rpm issue or just a bad oil pump. I do not know how a piston can hit the valves due to an oil pump failure, as the usual cause for valve impact is a high rpm situation when the piston moves so fast up and down the valves cannot open and close fast enough to keep up with the piston. Never hear of this happening on a 987, for what little that is worth. You might get the DME report to see what you have in the 6 ranges. There is a time clock for them. Then you compare the operating hours for the highest range with the total engine operating hours. If they are about the same then that is an additional problem.

Here are 2 pictures taken on the same day. March 23, 2007. My registration was due March 26th. First picture all 5 rediness codes are set. Second picture none are set. Don't remember what I did. Probably disconnected the battery to put it on my workbench for testing and charging, or playing around with the PST2. I know I ended up replacing the battery July 31, 2007. All I know I was not ready for testing, but I had paid my registration fees on time. When I finally had the test on December 7, 2007, the measured levels from the sniffer were well below the max, except for HC which was equal to the max.

99.9 mpg on the OBC. :rolleyes:

Pictures of 2 pumps with problems By chance I was talking to a mechanic a few days ago about the use of a plastic vs. metal impeller, since it appears aftermarket pumps have a metal impeller. This mechanic works at a dealership so he has never seen a metal impeller pump on a Boxster, as that is not what Porsche uses or sells. He did say that VW use to use a metal impeller and when the bearings failed the impeller would grind away at the aluminum engine case, and perhaps that is why Porsche uses plastic. Most of the broken larger pieces of the plastic impeller should be right behind the pump when you remove it. The smaller pieces are bye-bye, and your engine is not taken apart to find them.

That is the way it is on a 2003-2004. The screen is to keep cigarette butts out of the intake. The other vent is for the engine compartment cooling fan and it does not have a screen.

The only time I have checked for readiness codes is on my 1997, and there are just 5. The DME in a 2000 2.7 and 3.2 is different then my 1997, and a 2000 has more emission equipment. I would like to hook up the PST2 to a 2000 to see how many there are per a PST2. If there are 8 then you need to determine if you are ready for the inspection with just 6 or some other number set. But you are in the same Catch-22 situation. If you get a fault or check engine light while you are driving the car to get the codes set and erase them, then you start all over again with the drive cycles. Having the check engine light come on during a test - thank god that has not happened to me yet. Some people disconnect their battery before the test, not knowing they have to start all over. I hooked up my car to the PST2 at my office. When I saw I had 4 of the 5 set and no fault codes I drove straight to the smog place. Parked my car and checked it again to make sure nothing changed on the drive over. Smog guy hooked the car up to his machine and confirmed 4 were set. Car was ready for smog and it passed.

A local 986 owner has stripes.

Well, no one is going to follow this. Geoff and I have Boxsters. We also both have 1988 Toyota pickups, by chance. He bought his in 1988 Toyota as a new vehicle, and I bought my 1988 Toyota pickup in 1989 as a 1 year old vehicle. Geoff is in Southern California. I am in Northern California. Geoff is the English name for Jeff. My name is Jeff. I met Geoff at a Porsche delearship several years ago when he came up to San Jose for a holiday. The nitrogen thing in the tank. I already had that done with the Toyota for the smog inspection a few months ago. Right after the Boxster ticket. The pink looking thing with the hose going to the truck is a nitrogen tank. The pliers you saw were to clamp off hoses while the gas tank was pressurized with nitrogen. If I had taken the Toyota in the day before it was not required. The smog law changed the day I took the Toyota in - believe it or not. The Toyota fuel tank was about empty, so it took longer to fill the tank with nitrogen. Have to pay extra for this. Hate to think about it but Arnold is going to force this nitrogen thing on my 1997 Boxster sooner or later. The fuel tank evaporative system is put under pressure by a small on-board pump, to check for leaks. But this started for model year 1998 on the Boxster. That is also why model year 1997 Boxster was not subject to the gas cap recall.