Tool Pants

The car has to be hooked up to the Porsche System Tester 2 (PST2). The information is stored in the car's computer - the DME. And before you ask, it cannot be changed or erased. ;) You can also see that there are 3 engine operating hour displays. Total hours. Hours since last range 1. And hours since last range 2. Our cars have an electronic rev limiter, which many other cars have. Under acceleration you cannot rev up your engine to, let's say, 9,000 rpm and blow it up. At whatever rpm the limiter is set to it will cut fuel to 1/2 of the cylinders when the limit is reached to protect the engine. That is range 1. Also, if you look at test reports for cars it will tell you that the top speed was electronically limited - because once the rev limiter is on you cannot go faster. Some of the chips you see for sale that claim more hp simply raise the rev limit or remove the rev limit from the DME - not a good thing in my mind. The problem is the rev limiter cannot work if the engine rpms are drive by something other than the gas pedal. So if you miss a down shift and go, say, from 6th to 1st at 100 mph , the rpms go way up and the rev limiter cannot stop it and you can damage the engine. That is range 2. We call this rpms driven by the rear wheels. I cannot see how you can damage an engine in range 1. But you can in range 2. We had a tech session last year in Santa Cruz at Tim Benson's shop and he hooked up about 20 cars to the PST2. The guys who claimed they never missed a shift changed their story when shown the proof. I should also say that you can have range 2 without any damage. There are many cars with range 2 and they run just fine. This is my 1997 Boxster with 49k miles. I will confess to having missed a shift or two at low speeds, but it was such that I did not get into range 2 and that is why you see just dashes and no numbers. BMW has the same thing. I found this pic on a BMW site. Racing conditions detected. Must be fun to see that when your BMW is towed in with a damaged motor and you claim you did nothing wrong.

Because of the range 2 over revs which are not good for an engine. I do not care about range 1. If I was buying a used car with just 5k miles it would probably be the only thing I would check. Because if I bought the car I am stuck with the range 2 number if something were to go wrong down the road and Porsche wanted to give me a hard time. Here is another guy that needs to learn how to shift. :lol:

Tell your friend to buy Kirby's 2003 C2 so he can buy a GT3. But Kirby has a tip because he does not know how to shift. In my mine a car with only 5k miles is new and there is about 3 years of the warranty left. Can't think of anything special to look for. Perhaps a puddle of oil on the ground. :D Almost forgot.....

Oh no, the first FMS leak. :huh: You know know about the RMS - rear main seal issues - well there is also a front seal that no one talks about. This is just a joke. I have never seen oil seepage in that area. I do not know what it is. But oil will always find a way to escape from the motor. If you can send me a better picture I will show it to Peter and see what he says. BTW that bolt is not a coolant drain bolt. The drain is on the bottom of the motor and it is an allen plug like the oil drain plug. Jeff

I did the 60k service on a friend's 1998 for about $180 in parts, no brake pad change was needed. The sensors are a separate item from the pads. There is no reason to replace the sensors unless your warning light is on. We replace pads all the time without replacing the sensors.

Worked on too many cars. :unsure: No wonder Alex did not know how to do it when we called him. Give me your number so we can call you or Raman next time we can't figure out how to remove the lighter.

All I can say is good luck - takes about 10 hours to get the lighter out of the trim piece if you are lucky. When we swaped Ray's Boxster black trim for silver painted on a work on cars day I gave up. Passed the trim piece around to the 10 other guys there that day and they gave up. Looked at the worthless shop manual Then we gave it to Alex and he just did it and removed it while we were not looking. I think Alex invented the Rubic's cube. A few months later our local group is filming a silver trim swap and spoiler switch install on Armand's C4S for the DIYer DVDs. Then we had to stop the camera because we still did not know how to get the lighter out. I called Alex on his cell phone and he did not remember. Gave it to Raman and he removed it - he must be a co-inventor of the Rubic's cube. Then I got Raman to put it back together the way it was and start all over while the camera was running. I think I will make a DVD with just how to remove the lighter.

I am getting old. I searched another board and it was in 2002 the guys bought the pedals at the Parts Heaven swap meet. It was just $75 for the set of 4, including the dead pedal. The seller/owner/designer is Ray at Pro-Tech 209-786-2312. Good luck trying to get it now at that price.

I am the wrong guy to answer since I have seen them all and they are all much the same to me. Parts Heaven in Hayward hosts a swap meet each year - I think in June. Us local owners have gone there as group for several years. There is a guy there who has very good pedals in different styles and they are cheap. I think it was about $175 for a 4 covers and they were a good quality Several of our owners bought his pedals and they are in their cars. I think he makes them. He also has an optional extension for the gas pedal for heel and toe. The same seller was also at the Carlsen swap meet last year but he raised the price, but he did tell us in Hayward to buy them now. I cannot find the picture I took of the pedals, just the guys standing in front of the display. Might want to go to the Parts Heaven swap meet this summer and see if he is still there.

I think I heard this almost 5 years ago. The Bosch KTS 500. The diagnostic card for the PST2.

Oh, well. I had my tools all ready to cut 2 little ground wires to both side markers. I found some pictures. Both cars survived. Next time.

I reversed 90 with 91. Loren has it correct. My local parts guy at the dealer said he would have to fax in a special order request.

Part number is $$$ $$$ $$$ $$. Loren or Gert will have to confirm but it looks like this is a special order as there are none in the world listed in the parts computer and no price is listed. I also had my guy check the ROW parts. If the M option code for the RS is 004 then 2 wheels are listed. 996 347 804 90 is blue, and if you switch 90 with 91 it is red. Jeff Loren and I posted at the same time. :D

I did not know the VAG-COM was aftermarket. I thought it was the one used by the VW/Audi dealers show in the first picture I took at my Porsche/Audi dealer, but now I see it is different. A year subscription of software upgrades for the PST2 is $2,500. That plus the cost of the PST2 is a very expensive investment for a small independent shop. It is a simple windows based notebook computer. Any hackers out there?

That looks like a TechArt shift knob with the Porsche boot. A local C4S owner has it with a 6 speed pattern.

I do not know what was wrong with your car. But the coils, like anything electrical, can go bad all of a sudden. Each spark plug has it's own coil on top of the plug - there are no spark plug wires or a distributor. When I replace plugs I check the condition of the coils and they have been know to crack which will cause a misfire. Jeff

I did not think there was an easy Ta Da. I did it a bit different than Sandy's instructions since I have the pin removal tool. When it came time to connect the hook up wires to the white and black connectors I removed the existing pin from each connector. Then I soldered the end of the hook up wire to the now removed pin. You end up with 2 wires on each pin and do not have to cut anything. I still had to cut the brown ground wires to connect to the other ends of the hook up wires as I could not remove the brown wires from the bulb socket. I do not have a picture of the side marker thing, but it looks just like this. This pic is from when I added air horns to the existing horn. To power the compressor I removed the horn pin from the white connector and added to the existing horn wire the red wire to the compressor by soldering. Then put the pin now containing 2 wires back into the connector. Did not have to cut anything. I did it the same way with the side marker thing for the end of the 2 hook up wires. The other way is to scrape some of the insulation off and solder the hook up wires to the existing wires - but you still have to cut the 2 brown ground wires.

They will fit on a Boxster. I have 199 996 clear headlights on my Boxster. I assume your light are from a RHD and they are different than a LHD. The 2003 clear Boxster headlights are not leftover 996 headlights. The Boxster clear has a 986 part number. It is easy to tell the difference b/w the 2003 Boxster clear and the 996 clear. http://forum.boxa.net/index.php?showtopic=...lear+headlights

I am also on the UK Boxster board and there is a technical section. http://forum.boxa.net/index.php?act=idx Ask there. I have never seen a ROW car. When I first started on their board years ago I told them about Sandy's hack and got some funny responses since their cars come with blinking side markers.

For some reason this Boxster owner also has the Cayenne tech intro booklet and I see your references. No clue. If you belong to PCA you might try Peter Smith who is the shop foreman at my local dealer. He put on a Cayenne tech session for us last year. http://www.pca.org/tech/tech_qa.asp

There is. It is the PST2 - Porsche System Tester 2. But it costs 8-10 thousand dollars.

I doubt if it is the fuel filter. It is supposed to be replaced at 60k miles. If you do it at home you need to get the car in the air. Also need to remove the middle and rear plastic covers. This is when I did it on a friend's car.

When the weather in Canada looks like this Mark and I will go up there and film your top fix. Fixing Calvin's top last year after he got the $2,000 estimate.

I did it Sandy's way on 2 local cars. You cut one ground wire on each side. No big deal. There are some old instructions about swaping wires in the headlight connectors. The guy who prepared them is a local Boxster owner I know. They may not be correct, and/or may not be correct for all years. I do not know anyone who has done it that way and I do not have the time to study the US and ROW wiring diagrams - not that I would understand them anyway. I printed out various pages of info on this 4 years ago. If you want copies PM me your fax number. Whenever I see instructions on the internet that end with Ta Da I wonder if it will work. ;)

Next Kirby will want to know if you have Bi-Xenons. Tell him no. You can always get Aileen "Madam No Fear" to take your car apart as she can do it with her eyes closed.