Tool Pants

Excellent. More so since this is such a common complaint with the 4 spoke wheel that we inherited from the 993. Maybe now that the German company that makes steering wheels for Porsche has been bought up by a Japanese company they will start using a normal metal spring instead of rubber bushings. You should put together a repair kit for the 993, early Boxster, and early 996 and sell it to Porsche.

At Henry's house again. Start at 10:00 am. again. http://vssi-eda.com/hverheyen/box_pics/clu...address_dtl.jpg This will be a small event due to the last minute notice. The main project is a B&M install with the EVO shift link. You can watch Madam No Fear take apart a car blindfolded. Jeff

If you are going 100 mph in 5th gear and shift to 2nd accidently your rpms go way, way up and you can damage the engine. That is range 2. Range 2 is not good but there are cars with range 2 that run fine. I call this rpms driven by the rear wheels. The rev limiter cannot stop this type of over rev to protect the engine. Now, say you are going 30 mph in 4th gear and you shift to 2nd. The rpms will not be high enough to get you into range 2 Range 1 is when you are under acceleration and hit the rev limiter. The computer cuts fuel to 1/2 of the plugs so the engine cannot rev high enough to damage the engine. I hit the rev limiter almost ever day for 5 years. Range 1 means nothing as the rev limiter protected the engine. In any event, the last ignition in range 1 was 635 engine operating hours ago. So your engine was running for 635 hours since your last range 1. That is a very long time, and I trust it worked just fine. You have no range 2. If you over reved the car such that it caused engine damage you would have range 2 ignitions. So, did your dealer do something to your car to damage the engine. No. There is no range 2, period. Unless your dealer let your engine run for 635 hours they could not have triggered the last range 1. The numbers in range 1 and 2 cannot be changed by a dealer. This is a local guy's 2000 Boxster S. 34,300 in range 1 and 14 in range 2. His car runs fine. Look at the sticker on your door. What year and month was your car made. I do not know if you are the original owner but that car has been driven by "a little old lady." The poof is the range 1 and 2 report plus the fact you have the original clutch on a 100,000 mile sports car.

I would have to ask Peter. In the meantime why not try a fresh set of oem plugs. The Plus4 plugs are said to have problems.

The 4 spoke air bag comes off just like a 3 spoke. Disconnect the negative cable to the battery and you need a T30 torx driver for the 2 torx screws behind the wheel. This is the 4 spoke frame. Part number 993 347 088 01. Retail $65.

Do you have any range 2 over revs? If so how many. If so what are the total operating hours on the engine, and what is the operating hours since the last range 2.

There is a 996 guy on rennlist who bought a shift from the same ebay seller a few months ago. Then he wanted to know why it was black and not blue. The seller is selling them as B&M but at least 2 are the Porsche units. The pictures on the auctions are the B&M unit. I was going to buy one, but with my luck I would get the B&M unit. How was yours packaged. Did it come in a B&M box shrinked wraped to a picece of card board. Or was it in a plain box and the parts were in a plastic bag.

The green line is to one of the 4 bushings. My pencil is to one of the 4 horn contacts. When the bushings become worn and relax the frame/metal plate makes contact with the horn contact due to the weight of the air bag, and beep. Porsche does not sell just the bushings. You have to buy the entire frame. Some guys use slices of garden hose to make the bushings stiffer. Someone else put a spring under each bushing.

Good question. This is a good place to search for unbiased info for it's use in other cars. http://theoildrop.server101.com/cgi/ultimatebb.cgi I used it in the car before the Boxster and noticed no difference. I do not know any Boxster owners who use it. If the product does not harm aluminum I don't see what it could hurt. Some race car drivers use it because they are not allowed to have coolant since it is slippery on the track. So they run water and water wetter.

And why do you want to know this?

That price is high. A few months ago Brandywine had 10 new top on ebay for $1,500-1,800 depending on the color. Last year one of out local guys, Raman, bought one from them for $1,800. If you want to go with new then might might want to give them a call. It is Justin and I think Jay. Also check ebay for used tops. The only pain is crating and shipping since it is bulky. Check with your local Boxster owners. Some people with tops sell them because they do not use them. Then you do not have to deal with shipping. You can repaint a top but it has to be taken apart to do it properly, so that adds to the cost. We filmed the spinlock install and hardtop adjustment on Raman's car. It is not hard to do but it does take time to get it perfect.

There is an idle control valve but I have never played with it. When Chris worked at Stevens Creek Porsche I asked him what to do with a hunting idle problem, which is not exactly what you have. He suggested cleaning out carbon from the throttle body with a spray can of carb cleaner. Worth a shot since it only cost you the cost of the carb cleaner to see if that helps.

This is the oem shift lever which has been removed from the shift tower for a B&M install. The black thing on the end of the lever is the shift cable connector. It is made of plastic. It is attached to the shift lever with a ball joint. Some people have claimed the cable connector broke on them, but when you question them they really do not know because you cannot see it unless you remove the center console. I have never seen a broken one, just a few beat up ones. But because of the ball joint the connector can pop off the end of the shift lever under aggressive shifting. The shift link is made of metal and replaces this plastic part. It does not change the operation of the shift. You can even use it with the oem shift.

David in the UK with a Boxster S measured his, before and after, with the B&M unit. I asked him to do it in inches. He came up with a 41.6% reduction.

They have 23 units on ebay now. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAP...TRK%3AMEWA%3AIT They also sell the EVO shift link and I'm still looking for someone in the San Jose area who wants to install both since we have not yet put in the shift link. Brandywine also has the B&M unit that bolts to the transmission and you can adjust the reduction. Looking for someone who wants to install that one as well.

We need to start measuring more cars before and after. We put the Porsche short shift in a 2003 C4S in November. The reduction was 36.85%. I measure the same way I did with the B&M install on the 2000 996 and it was 43%. This could be due just to the play in the shift cables or my human error, or maybe the transmissions are different. This is the Porsche version of the B&M shift.

Becker has them online. http://www.beckerautosound.com/ Click on what's new and select 210.

At our work on cars Raman retrofitted the Porsche CDC-4 changer in his 2003. This is the MOST fiber optic system. First DIYer retrofit I know of. Next week he will go to the dealer and have the changer programed with the PST2. Update. Peter coded the changer today and it worked. :cheers:

We put a B&M short shift kit in Pixrken's supercharged 2000 996 today, and the reduction was the highest I have seen. 43%.

You triptronic owners could have helped Pixrken install his B&M short shift. And go for a spin in his supercharged 996.

You can get it in the tool department at Sears. There are some in the San Francisco area. Let us know your plans. We will set up a work on cars day in San Jose. Might even make it rain for you.

Hard to figure out the cause of a noise over the internet with having the car in front of you. Could be the motor mount - could be something else. The powertrain unit has 3 mounts. The front of engine mount had problems with the early cars, and Porsche has changed the design. Rev up any car and you will see how the powertrain unit flexs a bit. This is the front engine mount. The rubber bushing would slide out of the metal housing. This permits the engine to touch the body of the car and you get a vibration noise under certain conditions. You can see in this picture the rubber bushing sticks out past the housing. It should be flush with the housing. You should get the car in the air and see if this has happened. The cheap fix is to remove the mount and press the bushing back in so that it is flush. Then drill a hole in the housing and insert a screw so the bushing cannot move. Dealers do not do this, as they simply put in the new style mount.

It is a T20 torx screw. I have a 1/4" bot holder for tight places.

They are called tension cables. Does it make a difference if the top is up or down?

In my next parts order I was going to order 4 standard wheels bolts to get rid of the locking ones on my 1997. So I looked up the part number, and scratched my head as the wheel bolts for a 2004 have a different part number than a 2003 and older. No clue as to why there would be different part numbers depending on the year. Loren just sent me a Porsche bulletin. The height of the head of the bolt is now 14.5 mm instead of 16.5 mm, about the thickness of a tooth pick. And Porsche says the reduced height is to reduce un-sprung mass. :lol: And you are not to mix the new bolts with the old bolts or you will get a wheel imbalance. Guess I'm going to take my wheel bolts to the grinder and grind away 2 mm so that I can go faster. The supply of the old bolts is to be used up and then no longer available. If you buy the new reduced height bolt then you cannot mix it with the old, so you have to replace all the bolts on the wheel so that they match. Anyone with a very accurate scale? I would like to know the weight of the locking and normal bolt to test Porsche's claim.