Tool Pants

The door handles have microswitches. So when you move the handle it tells the window motor to go and drop the window. Sometimes the switches go bad or become disconnected. But since the drop does not work with either handle then it is most likely the window regulator. One of our local guys, Mark, went through this. There is a plastic part on the regulator that breaks. The only way to know for sure is to remove the door panel and see what is going on.

When you use the inside door handle does the window drop?

The current number is 996 110 121 06. I can only look up the most current part number, and I'm not sure if the 021 you mention is really 121. For older part numbers your dealer can search the history.

All I can guess is that the bahntech unit may be acting up. Disconnect it to rule is out as the cause of the problem.

Read all the messages on top cables and look at the pictures. Remove the clips where the cables hook into the motor and see how much of the square drive cable is sticking out. You need to rule out the cable as the reason one of the transmissions are not moving.

I have not see a clip like that in a store. On my old parts list full suggested retail is 80 cents.

When I turn off the ignition on my hot 1997 the fan goes off. On our local Boxster drives the only cars I hear the fan on after we park are the newer cars. The first time I noticed this was years ago when the 2001 first came out. Maybe there is something wrong with my car. If you fan runs for whatever reason then I think it is a good feature.

If you get the light again read the code(s). Double check the clamps, and the your dip stick is seated and the oil cap is on tight. If the MAF does not see what it thinks it should see then it tries to adjust the mixture, but it has a limit. In the book it is called the lean limit for your fault code. Per Peter there is an issue with some intake modifications as the MAF goes out of wack.

You need to turn aux on. Follow these instructions. If your MP3 player will still not work via the the RCA connectors at the end of the changer cable then disconnect the green connector only from the back of the radio. If it still does not work then you need the aux in connector from Becker. It only cost a few dollars compared to the more expensive cd changer cable you bought from them. We have local owners looking for the cd changer cable. They buy used cd changers on ebay and they do not come with the cable as the seller does not know how to remove the cable from the car. So list it in the for sale section if you no longer need it.

I have never played around with the cruise control. And keep in mind that the system used on 1997-1999 is different than the e-gas cars that started in 2000. With a PST2 you could find out in 5 minutes why it does not work.

The book says the DME thinks the fuel/air mixture is too rich at idle. Fuel pressure too high or a leaking fuel injector. If the fault does not show up again then don't worry about it.

Yep, a no option car. No door speakers or amp, or windstop, or alarm, or remote, and 16th wheels. Nothing.

The oem cable connector has a rubber coating on it, and I have seen a few where the rubber became torn. But when you clean the grease out of the socket the socket itself looks fine. I assume the coating has something to do with noise or something like that, since it is cosmetic more than anything else. On the next car I am going to play around with the shift lever and figure out if the rubber is hitting something. When I started out 5 years ago the EVO short shift was the big thing. I don't remember if the B&M was out back then. The reduction on the EVO unit is not as much as the B&M. With the EVO unit the oem plastic cable connector is removed. The EVO short shift unit is all metal. This is why I expected the EVO shift link to be all metal.

Yes, you need to have the changer hooked up to the cable and a disc in it. The radio then thinks the changer is working (which it is) but the audio comes from the MP3 because you use the RAC connectors for the changer for the MP3. With the 220 you should have just bought the aux in connector from Becker. Then you select aux on the radio.

On the older cars the engine compartment fan will not run when the key is out. That started in 2001. And then it cycles on and off as the DME searches for the engine compartment temp.

Thank you Henry as usual. I'm thinking it is better to have small events since we finished all projects. Aileen took off her blindfold for this special job. Then we watched as Taian tried to figure out how to install a B&M in the shift tower.

So far the winner is the lowly 2.7 Boxster 5 speed. :P With the B&M the first to second throw was reduced by 38.3%. Third to fourth by 46.4%. What is unique is that the reduction is not the same for both measure throws, but then as you can see the oem throws did not match either. It is on the 6 speed 996s I have measured.

I should not say it is a waste of money. It is well made. I would like to see some proof to support the claims made about the EVO shift link. Plus, if it makes you feel better and does not make you fat.... We put in the shift link and B&M in Taian's 2002 2.7. First I put the shift link in while the stock shifter was still in the car. The female ball joint on the shift link is plastic - much to my suprise - I expected it to be made of metal just like the rest of the unit. On the oem plastic cable connector the ball joint is, guess what, made of plastic. In my opinion if there is a weak spot in the shift assembly it is the plastic ball joint. So the critical part of the EVO shift link is plastic. I will say one thing, the plastic ball joint socket on the shift link is a much tighter fit - that fact alone makes the unit worthwhile. Once the shift link was installed with the oem shift lever it was time to see if we could feel any difference. There were several of us 5 speed Boxster owners there and non of us could "feel" a difference. I also measure the shift throws before and after and there was no difference, and EVO makes no such claim. Once we were satisfied the shift link was installed and worked properly with the oem shift then we installed the B&M shift. This is the first time I have measured the shift throws on a 5 speed. First to second was reduced by 38.3%, and third to fourth by 46.4%. This is unique as on the 6 speeds the percentage of reduction is the same on all the gears. There are pictures of my measurements in the 996 section. This is the shift link being installed on the oem shift. Once we put in the B&M unit we had to remove the green plate as the shift link was rubbing against it. The shift link comes with 2 set screws but there are 3 holes. We added a third set screw.

2002 2.7. Trick question.

A few hours ago. We put in both units. The shift link is a waste of money.

Last year our local group made 3 DIYer DVDs. Of various projects. Once in a while I get an email from somone who says why we did not give part numbers on the DVD. Like Loren said, they keep changing the numbers.

(1) There is no information presented other than a conclusion which is not supported by the fact you have no range 2. (2) Piston rings are wear items and with 105,000 you would expect them to have wear. As they wear you have some loss of compression - which you do have in some cylinders - but the report says it is due to the bent valves. Do you know if the engine was sleeved?

Exactly. Syncros need time to work - not matter what shift lever you have. If you give them time to work with a short shift then they are not going to wear out any faster then with a normal shift. Tomorrow we put in a B&M with an EVO shift link. I will measure that combination as well.

Next question. Is your engine sleeved like they did back then? If you have not already done so you need to call Porsche in Atlanta. I think the number is 1-800-PORSCHE. Valves get bent when a piston hits it while the valve is open.

The syncro debate - sure beats the oil debate. Any syncro on any car can wear out over time. That is just the nature of a syncro since it's job it to get 2 gears spinning at different rpms to the same speed. In my younger student days I use to rebuild transmissions. The 2nd get syncro gets the most wear, and the top gear syncro the less. Give me your stock car for a day and I can speed shift it so that it will need at least 1 syncro. Give me your short shift car and I can drive it for over 100,000 miles with no syncro change. There is a guy on the message boards who has repeated this 35% thing over and over. Ask him what is the source of this info. If you give the syncro time to do its job it will last. Your syncro does not know what type of shift lever you are using - the factor is the human hand on the shift knob. But if you try to make it work faster then it knows. Here is Danny's 2000 Boxster 2.7, a local Boxster owner. He has had a B&M for many years and cut the shift lever down, a lot. I was going to measure the percentage of reduction on his car, but there was not much to measure. The shift throw on his car is like turning a light switch on and off. He has no transmission problems. I have problems finding the correct gear in his car since I am not use to it. Danny does not have this problem.