R0gerB

Well I replaced to MAF today. It really seemed to help the motor idle alot smoother, also the air injection pump comes on now. The weird thing, the car has an occasional missfire since replacing the MAF and it didnt before! Is this normall to have a miss after replacing a faulty MAF? any ideas?

My ABS light comes on after driving a few minutes, after doing more research i know there are some vacuum lines associated with the system...is it possible that i do have a leak somewhere causeing the ABS light to be on and the Air Injection Pump to not come on?

no problem, good luck

I am from Fort Worth, this guy is here as well. The name of the place is Steve's Foriegn Car Parts and his number is 817-737-3171. you may try giving him a call and give him the part number that you need. I know some parts are a dealer only part, but if nothing else he could probably send you in the right direction. He may even have the part cheap enough to order and ship it from him. The guy talks about 3 times faster than the actuall speed of sound, but if you can fight through it, it should pay off for you

I'm from Texas and get all of my parts here from a local wholesale OEM parts supplier, so im not real sure where to tell you to go. He is cheap though...only paid $90 for my Air Oil Seperator, $20 for a power steering resevior vs the dealers $90, Brand new front rotors cost me $120 for the pair etc. so thats really the only place i have ever ordered parts from. Hard to beat going to a local shop buying parts as cheap as you would ordering them online

if your car is not equiped with option M535 (Anti-Theft Lock), correct, that is the part number that you need assuming your car is left hand drive (steering wheel on the left hand side of the vehicle)

Thanks for the tip! man, i just started the car up for about 15 seconds or so...that air pump did NOT come on. I am assuming it is supposed to turn on right as soon as the vehicle is started? i removed the pump and tested it with 12 volts and it turned right on so at least i know it works...what sensor or valve tells the air pump to kick on...maybe thats my problem?

Door Lock Mechanism Left- 3B1 837 015 E Door Lock Mechanism Right- 3B1 837 016 D I dont think 97's had optionM535 so you should be good to go (Anti-Theft Lock)

Which door, driver or passenger?

I have a 2001 Boxster 2.7L tiptronic with 139,000 miles. Daily commute driver. Mods are intake with cone filter (non oiled filter), headers, full exhaust with no cats. I needed to get the car inspected so I put my factory headers back on with the cats built into them and have been having a world of problems ever since. Also i should note that i used the same intake gaskets for the headers, so with my factory headers currently installed, it does have an exhaust leak although it is not a huge leak. The car was running very rich and had a rough idle. I checked the codes and had the 1130,1128,1124 codes, all being 02 sensors rich threshold. From what i understand, this does not mean that the sesors are bad. After researching on this site for similar problems, i suspected a vacuum leak. I first removed the oil cap while the motor was running and there was a little suction on the fill tube, which the engine tried to compensate for when the cap was removed. I then took off the intake to check all the vacuum lines, the intake had small pools of oil in the tubes, more than just a mist, so i went ahead and replaced the AOS along with a cracked "J" tube from the seperator to the intake. All the vacuum lines looked fine and i could not find any leaks. I cleaned the MAF and put it back in and it did not seem to change anything, although at cold start after cleaning with MAF cleaner it would run for a few seconds and then the motor would die sometimes. When the engine is warm it will stay running though with just a rough idle. I disconnected the battery for 10 minutes, unplugged the MAF, and started the car...this time the engine did not die but it still had a rough idle. I am not sure what my next step should be...should i go ahead and fork over the money for a new MAF or is there anything else i can possibly check first? running rich am i safe in assuming that my fuel filter and pump are fine? any tips or advice would be greatly appreciated, thanks!!!

Yeah make sure you remove the rubber piece that covers the hex head inside the hole

It looks just like the "Y" splitter that connects to the bottom of the vacuum reservoir. on my car its located under the intake on the passenger side of the motor towards the rear if i remember right

Well i ran into a mess...it started as i was turning left at a intersection, my power steering hose which aparently was ridding against the headers burned a hole and blew out causing the fluid to spray everywhere leading to the car catching fire and the fire department coming out to help put it out, in the middle of a busy intersection. So i got the car home and ended up splicing the line with a hydrolic steel braided 4000psi hose to save myself the $350 that the new power steering hose cost. well i spliced everything and as i pressured up the system it worked great...until i heard a strange dripping sound that turned out to be fluid dripping out of the pump. upon further investigation apparently the gasket on the power steering pump blew out as well...which im thinking may have been caused by debree getting in the lines during my hose repair. Anyway im wondering if anyone has ever replaced a power steering pump and if you can offer me a few tips on the removal of the pump and what all accessories have to come off in order to remove it. i have the belt and pulley off the pump but now im just looking at a mess of bolts in small hard to reach places. Im hoping that all i need to do is replace the gasket and not the whole pump...but who knows. Also if debree got into the system what is a good way to purge the system to remove any junk?? thanks for all the help!!!!!!!

Thanks for the help! it seemed like the wire harness was not fully into the computer, when i pushed on it, it clicked into place and also the sensor on the bottom of the coolant tank in the trunk was saturated as if when i had the system flushed fluid parshly corroded the sensor. after some cleaning and playing with wires everything seems to be working so far (fingers crossed)

is it located in the coolant tank? thanks for the help!