1999Porsche911

There is no reason to remove the bumper for any exhaust mod. It will completely remove with bumper in place.

There is a lifter for each valve and what a lifter is is and cylindrical housing that has a small barrel inside of it. You can google and find pictures. This barrel is tight against the valve housing and has engine oil under it which ceates a hydraulic effect when the barrel is pressed down into the housing. This oil is constantly drained and replaced with engine oil as the lifter cycles. Sitting against the top of the lifter (barrel) is the valve stem. The lifter if moved up and down by the lobes on the cam. As the lobe on the cam lifts the lifter, the valve stem is tight against the barrel in the lifter and causes the corresponding valve to open. The oil inside the lifter keeps the barell snug against the valve stem so there is constant contact between the 2. As the cam lode releases the lifter and it moves away from the valve stem, the hydraulic pressure created by the barrell pressing up against the valve stem pushes the barrell back up to the top of it's stroke, again, keeping the barrel snug against the valve stem at all times. (Like a sping would) When you hear valve noise, it is tippically a result of the valve stem not keeping constant contact with the barrell in the lifter and the noise you hear is the stem hitting the barrell. The most common casue of this is insufficuent hydrailc pressure build up in the lifter which does not allow it to maintain contact with the valve stem. It can also be a result of other things, but this is the common cause. Now, when the barrell is squeezed down into the lifter housing, some oil is allowed to be pushed out of the housing. The speed at which this bleeding occurs directly effects whether the stem and lifter stay in contact with each other. If the oil escapes too fast, there will not be enough oil to maintain contact. This is why you hear more noise with a bad lifter at slower engine speed. An oil that is too thin will bleed faster that will a thcker oil. Further damage can occur if you do not have sufficient pressure is that this will allow the barrell in the housing to cock slightly, scoring the side walls and eventually lead to athe barrel getting stuck in one position.

Normal operation of oil gauge: Cold startup = 5 bar at all rpms Fully warmed engine at idle = about 2 bar Fully warmed engine above 3000 rpm = 4 - 5 bar Nevr, ever below 1 .5 bar no matter how hot it is.

Keyvan, what did that sound turn out to be? Is it normal? Thanks Keyvan, My 01 TT also sounded like this when I pulled my car over the road after hearing the same sound as what you posted. My car was towed to the nearest Porsche dealer and is waiting to be looked at. Does anyone know what could be causing that sound? Thanks! It could be many things, even external to the engine, but sure sounds like you have a stuck lifter. Are you using 0W40? That light of an oil used in hot weather can score the lifter and cause it to get stuck. The obvious checks also include proper oil pressure and oil level. It also could be electrical arching from a plug connection which will also vary with engine speed, but if it is louder when you put you ear to the tailpipe (not on the tail pipe but NEAR it), I would bet lifter. Since the car is already at the dealer, you can't do this, but if they say it is a lifter and requires engine rebuild out of warranty, I would first flush the system with a good cleaner and put in some fresh oil. Stuck lifters can sometmes be freed up and will rehone itself so it works as designed. Also check to be sure that a cable of wire is not rubbing against any of the belt driven assesories. You can eliminate the belt and pullies by removing the belt and starting the engine.

Coud be just the sensor which is fairly easy to replace. Maybe $120 for part and 1 hour or less to replace. I sure would eliminate that as the cause before yanking the engine and playing with the internals. If the engine is running normally, it is unlikely the chain or actuator.

Try bleeding the brake system.

It is a normal mod of operation for a dealer to tell unsuspecting customers they need brakes. Beware and look at them yourself. Unless you track your car are ride the brakes, it is extremely unlikely you need pads yet. When the pads DO get down to the size where they need replacing, the sensors will wear though and warn you in plenty of time. Replace with OEM pads unless you track the car.

There are many good scanners. If you do a search, you;ll find many recomendations. Make sure it will display the sensor readings, including )2 sensors MAF, Fule Trims, Engine Temps, calculated load, timeing, etc. Many people use the one from http://www.autoenginuity.com/ And, yes, a bad plug may show up as a rich condition on that side of the engine or a misfire. The scanner willhelp you see exactly what the engine is doing at different times, regardless of what any code may indicate.

Get yourself a scanner to read the codes or stop by Autozone and ask them to read it. When was the last time you changed the plugs? A good scanner that can read the codes as well as all major sensor readings is a MUST for new cars. You could have invested $250 or less in a scanner and found that the problem was not the MAF and still be ahead bt $250+ thanks to another dealer ripoff. Did the dealer give you the old MAF back? Probably not. A local dealer was caught recently putting in replaced MAF's after cleaning them and charging full price to customer.

It doesn't matter. Just fill up your pressure bleeder with fuild and go for it. Don't forget the clutch bleed.

The first thing you need to do so you do not get raped by the dealer or anyone else, is to buy a scanner that will show you the readings of various engine sensors, such as engine temp, MAF, O2 sensors, etc. There are several available. Do a search here. DO NOT simply get a code reader as it will tell you nothing. Cost is less than $250, some are only $100 or so. If your temp light is not going on or the gauge is not to the top of the range, you probably do not have a major problem. The seperator has nothing to do with engine temp or running lean. I would like to know how the dealer has determoined that only one side of the engien is running hot and not the otherside. The only way that could happen without misfire is that there is a blockage of some sort. Like I said before, check with another dealer. Get the scanner...you can use it on all your new cars and you won't be operating blind. Confirm that BOTH fans are operating in front. Get down on your kness and listen to each one. Also make sure they are running at full speed. Make sure there is no blockage (leaves) in front of the radiators. Try driving around with the bleeder valve open on the coolant tank. You will see a black cap on the tank that has a little silver wire on it. Pull this lever up so it is straight up and down. This will allow air to escape the system while you are driving and will cause no operational problems.

I still don't know how you know it is running hot. It is normal for the temp gauge to be above the 180 mark. Having the needle on the "0" in 180 is not hot. How do you know that the left side of the engine is hotter than the right side? Your engine is NOT running rich based on your error code of 1124. Is there coolant in your coolant tank in the engine compartment? Have you ever flushed the coolant? Have they checked the thermostat?

When you say hot...how do you know? Where is the gauge sitting? Are both your fans running in front? Yu should hear them if you go to the front of the car with the engine running. Is your temperature light on Flashing fast/slow? Do you lose coolant? If so, from where? Does the engine lid fan run when you say you are overheating?

Well, lets first explain what a P1124 code means. This code is generated when the O2 sensor on bank1 reaches it voltage limit as it attempts to richen out the fuel injectors on bank 1. This means that bank 1 is running too lean. Some of the causes of a lean condition may include a vacuum leak or a clogged injector and maybe even 1 or 2 bad plugs A leak in the exhaust system before the O2 sensor could also cause this code to be generated. There are other causes for a lean engine, but they will generally cause both sides of the engine to run lean. An oil seperator, in the case of your 996, simply receives the crankcase bypass gasses, cools them by receiving them from the engine and passing them through a chamber (oil seperator) that is cooled by your engine's coolant. The majority of the solid oil that may goes into the seperator is drawn back into the oil pan and the gasses are returned to the engine through a hose to the throttle body. I have no idea how a you would diagnose a bad seperator as causing a lean condition. Other than a broken hose that would blow oil gasses over the engine, a the symptoms of a bad oil seperator would be oil in the coolant and/or coolant in the oil. It would not, directly or indirectly effect the operation of one side of the engine. It sounds like the tech is trying to make a few extra bucks. First of all, replacing the seperator is not a big job, and secondly, it is unrelated to you problem. When was the last time you changed you plugs? Have you checked all vacuum lines? Cleaned the MAF? Used fuel injector cleaner in your gas tank? If you insist on having a dealer diagnose and do the repair, I strongly suggest you go to another dealer and do not tell them what your previous diagnosis was. Is your car overheating?

No. My alternator is fine. I just needed to get behind it to remove some unrelated plumbing.

It can be a pain to get out, but can be done. I just removed mine this morning. Make sure that the right hand side pivot is below the bracket when removing and turn it clockwise to get out. Removing the coolant cover will not cause you to lose too much coolant. Put a bucket under the engine and you will catch it all. (DO NOT REUSE) The gasket is reusable and should remain attached to the cover when it is removed, (10 mm socket)

Turn the alternator CLOCKWISE to clear everything.

I forgot to mention this is a C2 with 6 speed manual trans bought w/ 34000 miles used Could be. The easiest way to see if its the oil seperator is to temporarily disconnect the bypass tube coming from the seperator at the throttlebody. Seal the opening in the throttle body where the hose was connected to prevent vacuum leak. Now, there is no way oil can get from the seperator into the intake system and out the exhaust. Any excess oil from the seperator (which should be no more than fumes) will now come out the hose that was connected to the throttlebody. Your car should run normal. Start your car, let it run for a few minutes and shut down. If you still have smoke when you start the car after it has sat for several hours, your problem is not the seperator.

Classic sign of low air in a rear tire. If it pulls to the right, check the right rear. Left pull...check the left rear tire.

Noise, noise and more noise. You engine will rev up faster and also rev down faster. Not for a daily driver IMO.

P1123 menas tha the O2 sensor is reading Bank 1 as being RICH. I would first clean the MAF with electronics cleaner. Could also be a leaky injector or bad plugs. Thanks. I cleaned the MAF, I replaced the plugs 4 months or a thousand miles ago. Injectors I haven't checked. Eric Have an early 99 c4, that is 2 wheel drive. Took code with OBDII tester. If your car is 2 wheel drive, it is a C2. You may also just had a blip in the system. Try rebooting the computer by disconnecting the negative cable on the battery for 5 minutes. You will have to re-enter your radio code. It will also take a few drive cycles to get the idle back to normal and solid.

P1123 menas tha the O2 sensor is reading Bank 1 as being RICH. I would first clean the MAF with electronics cleaner. Could also be a leaky injector or bad plugs.

You should use injector cleaner periodically in all fuel injected engines.

If I read your message right, you get 300 miles out of a tankfull on the highway and 130 - 150 in the city. BOTH are way lower than normal. I can't even get that low bouncing off the rev limiter with each shift. You should get, on average, 16+ in stop and go city driving and 24, 25+ on the highway.

You hypothesis is correct only if you were changing the brake fluid in the northern hemisphere. Since you are in Australia, you can compensate for southern hemisphere gravitational pull by inverting the car. Then starting with the left wheel as viewed from the front of the car would be correct. Lastly, when re-torquing the wheel lug nuts be sure to accomplish this by using only a left-handed torque wrench. Thanks Orient, hadn't thought of that, that would make it easier to get the cosmoline off the engine and gearbox too, is this the method you use for your concours prep. I'll re phrase the question, do I do the wheel furthest from the master cylinder first. That seems logical to me but I just wanted to make sure I was doing it correctly and not leaving any old fluid in the system. The position of the master cylinder is different on LHD and RHD cars. Yes. Do the back left wheel first.