Jump to content

Welcome to RennTech.org Community, Guest

There are many great features available to you once you register at RennTech.org
You are free to view posts here, but you must log in to reply to existing posts, or to start your own new topic. Like most online communities, there are costs involved to maintain a site like this - so we encourage our members to donate. All donations go to the costs operating and maintaining this site. We prefer that guests take part in our community and we offer a lot in return to those willing to join our corner of the Porsche world. This site is 99 percent member supported (less than 1 percent comes from advertising) - so please consider an annual donation to keep this site running.

Here are some of the features available - once you register at RennTech.org

  • View Classified Ads
  • DIY Tutorials
  • Porsche TSB Listings (limited)
  • VIN Decoder
  • Special Offers
  • OBD II P-Codes
  • Paint Codes
  • Registry
  • Videos System
  • View Reviews
  • and get rid of this welcome message

It takes just a few minutes to register, and it's FREE

Contributing Members also get these additional benefits:
(you become a Contributing Member by donating money to the operation of this site)

  • No ads - advertisements are removed
  • Access the Contributors Only Forum
  • Contributing Members Only Downloads
  • Send attachments with PMs
  • All image/file storage limits are substantially increased for all Contributing Members
  • Option Codes Lookup
  • VIN Option Lookups (limited)

1999Porsche911

Members
  • Posts

    907
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by 1999Porsche911

  1. A TSB was issued regarding noise in the clutch system. The noises can occur in the area of the clutch release collar. The clutch release lever has been modified to eliminate the noise. The release lever along with the other listed parts must be replaced. The modified release lever was installed in production on April 19, 2000. Porsche does not address the physical problems this bad release lever causes, but when I took mine out, the dimple that the piston from the slave cylinder sits in to push the lever, was oblong and worn. This allowed the piston to move around in the dimple causing erratic clutch pedal position Pedal would sometime engage clutch at a low point and sometimes at a high point.
  2. I am assuming that if your throwout bearing is bad, you have alot of miles on the clutch too. The biggest cost of replacing the throwout bearing or clutch is removing the transmission, so I would replace everything at the same time..
  3. Many 99's had a problem with the clutch release lever making noise as well as causgin intermitant clutch engaging problems. Yours sounds like the throwout bearing is going which will make a grinding noise as you press the pedal towards the floor. In either case, if you replace the clutch, make sure you also have the latest release lever and associated hardware installed. It adds about $40 to the job.
  4. The sensor does not seal anything. It does not even touch the collant. You can run without the sensor and there will be no leak. It simply inserts into a large dimple in the bottom of the tank that, itself, is molded as part of the tank. If it leaks there, it has nothing to do with the sensor sealing.
  5. Better yet, get a good detector and you won't have any problems. The BEL has few, if any false alarms and can go silent after initial twerp.
  6. Do you mean it does NOT matter in any car? <{POST_SNAPBACK}> Sorry, had a few drinks and dropped a word or 2. Yes, I meant DOES NOT MATTER.
  7. It does matter in ANY car. Leave it on or off.
  8. For less than $20, simply put an adjustable voltage activated switch inline with the Speed sensor wire and set it for something like 2 - 3 volts. The other end of the switch is connected to a 12 volt line and away you go. The only problem with turning the detector off and on is that it will beep each time it come on unless you have one that can be silenced on startup. There is an endless aray of ways to do it. You can even put a voice activated switch in the car.
  9. 99P911, I don't have a scanner but looks like I'm gonna need one. I guess the laptop software versions are a lot better than the comparably priced hand held units? Autozone has a $150 Actron handheld. I'm just anxious to dive into this. Thanks! <{POST_SNAPBACK}> Alot of people use the autoengenuity software and are happy with it. http://www.autoenginuity.com/
  10. Have you hooked up your scanner and looked at the fuel trims for each bank as well as the O2 sensor readings?
  11. NOT! In lower gears the torque level that the clutch can "couple" without slipping is multiplied downstream and so there is actually less probabilty of clutch slippage. Try starting out in 4th gear from a full stop as a perfect example of this, clutch will slip every time yet work perfectly in proper startup gear. <{POST_SNAPBACK}> That is not true. If your clutch slips in 4th gear when you slam it at 3000 rpm, it will slip even more slaming it at 3000 in 1st gear. The clamping force of the plate is not determined by rpm or what gear you are in. If it is weak in one gear, it is weak in all gears. If the disc is glazed and causes slippage in one gear, then the glazing will cause slippage in all gears at the same or greater torque. Not my rule, just phsycs.
  12. If your clutch as slipping at a low rpm, low torque point (high gear), you would notice an even more severe slippage in lower gears. Because you are not experiencing this, I doubt it is the clutch.
  13. To tell you the truth, until I came across this thread, I have never even used my visors. I sit high in the seat, so I guess I never needed them. Tried them today and they work, but block my view.
  14. Do it yourself. It's easy and it will cost you a few bucks in parts and you'll get to know your car. They charge an additional $135 for the K-Y. Better to pick up a few tubes at Walgreens if you take the car to the dealer. Frankly, the 30,000 mile service is overrated and unecessary. Don't let the dealer or anyone else scare you into thinking that this is some special car that need extraordinary care.....because it does not and is like most any other car (as far as maintenance) that you find on the road.
  15. I have run toulene in many of my cars without issue. It is obviously cheaper to mix 100 octane with a less octane fuel, but when that is not available toulene works fine.
  16. Blue smoke generally means that oil has leaked down the valve stem and into the exhaust. It can also be oil that has passed by the oil rings and into the cylinder but it really depends on what color blue you saw. The daker blue (almost black) would make me lean downs oil in the cylinder. This, however, does not mean that your engine is damaged. This is not normal, but is common on many cars depending on how the car was driven last time out as well as how hard you drive the car on a regular basis. Where do you live. In a hot climate? What oil are you using? Do your approach redline regularly? Any mods to the car?
  17. It is unlikely that it is a major problem. They'll have to take it apart again check the lifters. Keep the pressure on them. By the way. Do you live in a hotter climate and been using 0w40 oil? If so try going to at least a 5w50 in warm climates and this will help keep the lifters from cocking and jambing. Assuming that is what caused the lifter problem to begin with.
  18. 2 weeks is a long time, but you have to remember that the average Porsche mechanic has little experience working on the internals of the engine and they probably had to look in the book to see what a lifter was I assume this is warranty work?. They probably had to order parts too. Sounds like a valve is not sealing. Did they say that the leak was 1 cylinder or all?
  19. Check that you connected the cable to the MAF correctly and tightly.
  20. It's the cover that has the wire coming out of it in the top center of the picture. Don't know the torque spec.
  21. Torque down the 2 bolts that hold the small cover on (wire coming out of it). This most often stops the sweating of oil. This is a very common area of leakage for the 996. Nothing to worry about.
  22. Yup, that the new one POrsche is recommending. I use the NGK's.
  23. Invest in a good scanner and you'll be able to see what fault set the CEL.
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.