1999Porsche911

Check the oil level. Here is how the oil gauge should work on a typical 996: Cold idle: 5 bar Fully warm idle: 1.5 - 2 bar Any engine speed above 3000: 4 bar+ If your oil level is fine, you may have a bad sending unit. These are not expensive and ae easy to replace. 1 bar is too low and the light should NEVER come on. What grade oil are your running? What year 996? Where do you live? How did you check your oil level?

Check the oil level. Here is how the oil gauge should work on a typical 996: Cold idle: 5 bar Fully warm idle: 1.5 - 2 bar Any engine speed above 3000: 4 bar+ If your oil level is fine, you may have a bad sending unit. These are not expensive and ae easy to replace.

When there is an problem with an monitored sensor, the computer will first record it as a "pending DTC". If it occurs again within a specific time, or remains a problem, the computer will then report it as a full CEL by activating the light. Some sensors will ocassionally have a hicup and can cause a pending DTC, but it won't happen again so no CEL is reported. Glad it looks like it worked out for you.

Pulling the alternator if a simple, quick job and can be rebuilt compartively, very inexpensively.

First of all, your problem has nothing to do with the type of oil you used (which in my optinion is wrong) or the level of oil or anything else with the slipperly liquid. The codes indicate that your engine is running lean. Either you are getting too little fuel or too much air. This can be caused by several things, but I would look at the obvious first. Make sure the O'ring on the oil filler cap is in good shape and that the cap is on tightly. Check for any leaks in the intake system (hoses, etc.) Also, add a bottle of injector cleaner to your fuel tank. I would check the vacuum hoses and intake while the engine is running by carefully examining each hose and follwing it to each of it's ends, where possible, to make sure they are secure and free of cracks. You will probably hear a change in engine idle when you find the bad or disconnected hose. Assuming that the MAF is properly connected and cleaned, you will probably find the fix with the hoses. Let us know as there are a few more things you can check.

It might be nothing more than a broken serpentine belt or just a bad battery. I wouldn't lose any sleep over wondering if it's anything major. Keep us posted.

They are factory holes and serve no performance purpose. Increases noise level and drains any water in flter housing. You are correct that it increases intake temperatures which hurts performance.

Ok Thanks - but I'm a tad confused now. Are you saying this sensor monitors both the air temperature of the engine compartment AND the coolant temperature ? (it does have 4 wires I have noticed). If so, how can it monitor the air when it's almost at the bottom of the engine - surely the sensor should be at the top near the lid ? (not that I'm doubting you - just doesn't make much sense..) Also, I assume if I replace the whole sensor - I'll need to catch the coolant as I assume I'll make a hole in the block when removed ! Thanks - almost there I think ... Richard. Further update - I called Porsche East London to find out the cost of the engine coolent thermostat (£11.27 btw) and they advised that there is a 2nd sensor as I suspected called the 'Ambient Temperature Sensor'. (Great service from Porsche East London parts department - thumbs up) It is located in the plastic inlet manifold on the right hand side of the engine. I've been told that it sometimes pops out of it's mounting and causes this problem. Reseating it should solve the problem. This sensor is only £14.71 but they said they haven't ordered one for 3 years so sounds very reliable. I'm at work at the moment so will check this tonight and report back ... Hopefully this is the problem ... Cheers, Richard. I made a mistake. The sensor in the lower picture IS NOT the engine compartment sensor. I didn't look at the picture close enough yesteday to see the coolant hose. That is the temperature sending unit for the coolant. The sensor you are looking for is located on bank 2 (right side of engine) on top, between the middle and back intake shown in the first picture above. It is a 2 wire sensor and your can remove it by sliding ut out towards the right fender. Sorry for the mixup. And YES, it can fall off and sit on top of the manifold, raising the temperature it reads.

The lower picture is of the sensor. It slides out to the right to remove. Unplugging it on a warm engine should activate the fan immediately.

Could be a bad sensor. Remove it and measure the resistance. Also, by design, the fan will come on when the engine reaches operating temperature if the cable is not solidly connected to the sensor. Check the connection. Air flow is not a problem as I have the same setup as you do. Mine seldom comes on and only when sitting in direct sunlight on 100F temps.

There is no mention of the release lever????? If your the lever has never been replaced, it is a MUST. Bad levers in these cars cause premature clutch wear. The is a TSB on this and Porsche should be able to show you. DO NOT allow them to install a new clutch without the updated lever, no matter what they say. Total cost of lever and parts is $50 from dealer. Clutch kit from dealer is only $550, so your price is high.

Replacement of the bulb should fix the problem.

Here in Chicago, total cost including OE clutch kit is $1200 at Euroquip.

It's not difficult to replace (remove alternator, throttlebody and intake tube). However, they break all the time and can be reattached where it broke using epoxy. I've broken mine a half dozen times moving it farther than it wanted to be moved. To Replace: Disconnect the battery and cover terminal or battery. Remove the complete air cleaner assembly: Unclip oil filler neck from upper part of the air cleaner. Undo hexagon-head bolt M6 x 34. Pull plug off the mass air flow sensor. To do this, push the button and simultaneously pull the plug off. Loosen hose clamp on the throttle body, unclip cable on the air cleaner housing and remove the air cleaner system. Pull plug off the throttle body. Undo 4 hexagon-head bolts (M6 x 40) and remove the throttle body. Release vent line. To release vent line, push the outer unlocking ring (arrows) and simultaneously pull out the line. Remove intake distributor - center. Loosen inner hose clamps at intake distributor. Loosen fit by swiveling intake distributor. Tighten inner hose clamps again. Loosen outer hose clamps. Swivel to looser) fit. Loosen inner clamp hoses and remove intake distributor. Remove generator from bracket. To do this, relieve drive belt, turn the tensioning roller (wrench size 24 mm) clockwise and simultaneously remove the belt from the tensioning roller. Remove belt from drive wheel of generator. Undo upper right-hand fastening screw on generator (1) by approximately 3 turns. A gentle tap on the fastening screw loosens the front fastening bushing in the generator arm. Unscrew fastening screw (2). Turn generator clockwise and remove from bracket. Set down generator with connected lines. Undo two hexagon-head bolts (a/f 10 mm) on the oil filler neck. Pull oil filler neck out of the crankcase. Installation Fit new sealing ring (42 x 4) on oil filler neck. Coat new sealing ring, e.g. with tire mounting paste, and fit oil filler neck on crankcase. Secure new micro-encapsulated hexagon-head bolts (M6 x 16). Tightening torque: 10 Nm (7.5 ft. lbs.) Fit intake distributor. Ensure that the vacuum line is seated correctly in the right rubber sleeve. Centre the intake distributor. Push both rubber sleeves onto the intake distributor up to the marking (line). Check distance between intake distributor and support for hydraulic pump, they must be at least 5 mm apart. Fit throttle body. Insert new sealing ring in the correct position. Secure 4 hexagon-head bolts (M6 x 40). Tightening torque 10 Nm (7.5 ft. lbs.) . Fit plug. Install generator. Tightening torque of the hexagon-head bolt M10 x 145 (8.8) (No.1) 46 Nm (34 ft. lbs.) . Tightening torque of the hexagon-head bolt M10 x 30 (No.2) 46 Nm (34 ft. lbs.) . Fit drive belt. Install air cleaner assembly. Note: Before installation, make sure that the rubber sleeves (2 ea.) are present and properly seated in the transverse lock panel. Clip oil filler neck onto upper part of the air cleaner. Connect battery.

FYI.. on the '06 997 (mine's an S), you can't apply brake pedal pressure while pressing the accelerator in gear - I'm guessing it's because of the electronic throttle control. If I am driving along and hit the brake pedal with my left foot, the throttle backs off. ;) Another of the many drawbacks of computer controls. Simply apply the brakes from speed down to near stop a few times and you'll be done.

I have to admit, that a buddy and I put a 68 chevy small block back together some 30+ years ago and found a piston on the work bench after it was bolted together. Stupidy happens.

Can you roll the car forward and backwards with it in nuetral and engine off? This would eliminate mechanical failure.

I would stay with your current sizes. More than enough for the most aggressive street driver. Regardless of cost, the Potenza RE-750 in this size is the best IMO. Great wet and dry and reliativily quite. Additionally, unlike many of the more expensive tires, these remain close to maximum grip even in the coldest of weather. It take a deliberate attempt to break these tires free in dry weather. If you want a wide stance on the back, throw on some 17mm spacers.

Take the car out and get to an area where you can accelerate and brake repeatedly. Get the car up to 50 or so and then evenly apply the brakes until almost stopped. DO NOT keep you foot on the brake pedal when you are stopped (unless you HAVE to). Repeat several times, inceasing the pressure you apply to the brake pedal. A couple of hard braking applications will complete the break in. Now enjoy the car. You can also drive the car while applying the barkes lightly while driving. Keep doing this for several miles increasing the pressure to the pedal. The idea is to get the brakes hot and seated without letting the pads sit still against the rotor. No further break in is necessary.

On the older Motronics 5.4 (or something like that), it will take 2 - 3 full cycles to completely settle the idle down. At first, the idle will be a little high and be slow to go down when coming to a stop. After the 3rd time your car is started after sitting for a few hours, all should be back to normal. You might also remove the idle control valve on the left side of the throttlebody and spray the inside valve with carb cleaner. It gets sticky sometimes. If you find that it improves things, you can clean the MAF again and again without damagiing it.

Have you tried cleaning the MAF?

As I said in my email to you, I just had my clutch replaced (1 month ago) by Euroquip in St Charles Illinois. I highly recommend them. I had never used them for anything but thoughtt I would have them do the clutch because they work on both BMW and Porsche, which I own and I wanted to establish a relationship with someone. Well, they did the job at a very reasonable price, but I had the same problems as you did. I bleed the system, adjusted the pedal, kicked the tires, and still couldn't get the clutch to be consistent. I concluded it had to be inside the bellhousing. Went back to Euroquip and explained the problem and they agreed that it must be inside somewhere. They looked at the clutch related TSB's from Porsche and immediately determined that the problems was with the release lever. Without even asking them, they said that they should have been aware of the TSB and they completely redid the job, replacing the necessary parts with no cost to me except the $50 in additional parts for the lever, etc. These guys treated me like I was king and, obviously I will bring all my cars to them inthe future when I need service. Tell this story to your mechanic and see what they say.

If there is no record of a new release lever put in, then you probably have the bad one. Have you ever changed you clutch? They should have put the new one in then. PM me your email address and I'll sned you the info on the boost spring, etc.

Potenza RE750.

Also, if you want to eliminate any pedal caused syptoms and really feel the clutch assembly, remove the clutch spring from the pedal assembly. This will eliminate all assitance when pressing the clutch and allow you to only feel the movement of the clutch, pressure plates, etc. The design of the clutch spring can cause an abrupt jump in the pedal, especially towards the top of the stroke. You can even drive without the spring if you want. The clutch will be more consistant and smooth. Your leg will just get tired sooner. Make sure you secure the boost spring with a nail or cotter pin through the bore at the end of the spring housing . This will prevent the spring from popping out of the housing.