1999Porsche911

You tires are a little more than 3/4 inch bigger in diameter than the stock 18 inch one.

Jorge: If your clutch slips, but eventually grabs again at a constant high rev upshift, one of the causes may be the a binding clutch fork that I mentioned above. As your clutch wears, this fork's angle on the shaft increases and the old style fork can cock and bind slightly, especially when shifting quickly. This does not allow for the fingers on the pressure plate to release fully, allowing the clutch disc to slip for a few seconds until the fork pops back into it's correct position. This is normally accompanied by noise coming from the bell housin when the clutch pedal is depressed and released. You won't experience a problem when driving normally. So, like I said above, make sure they install the newest designed fork (acctuator lever) when they put in the clutch kit. I would ask for all old parts back. The stock clutch has pletty of grip with the stock EVO setup and I drove mine for 20,000+ miles without a problem. The EVO system provides substantial power increase while maintaing the power curve of a stock 996. If you want to improve your torque a little more, consider getting rid of the 19 inch wheels and going back to 18 inch. Jim

When your clutch slips when shifting at high revs into another gear, does it finally grab after a few seconds?

Dell: Here in Chicagoland, 2 different dealers charge 5 hours for clutch replacement. One told me 9 hours. So you have to pressure the dealer to keep them honest. Porsche's tech manual states 5 hours.

I just weet out to the unheated garage, where my 99 C2 has been sitting since December 2nd and she started right up. You should not have any problems letting the car sit for up to 6 weeks or more without a battery maintainer. Either you are leaving the key in the ignition or an accessory on, you have a drain somewhere, or a bad battery. I have never had any problems letting my car sit, and I use a $48 Sam's Club battery.

If you are going to go with the standard EVO SC, the stock clutch kit will be enough. Stage 2 Sacks is a great improvement but it will change the engagement feel of the clutch. It will take you a while to get used to it. But will take more abuse. No matter what clutch you put in, you MUST make sure that the newest design clutch actuator lever (fork) is installed if it has not already been done. 1999 and early 2000 cars had a problem with this lever and a TSB exists for it. The TSB is to eliminate noise, but the old fork also effects the engagement of the clutch negatively. Most dealer WILL NOT automatically replace this $40 part unless asked to. Stock clutch install at dealer should be less than $1500.

I would clean up the area that has the oil and NOT change the RMS unless it is leaking (not just sweating). If you are not losing oil between changes, it is nothing to worry about. The accumulated oil may not even be from the RMS, but from the cam cover on bank 1.

I use the NGK plugs for the 3.4 engine.

You can also make changing your coolant part of your routine maintenance when you change your oil. If you remove the coolant drain plug on the back of the engine, you will remove 2 gallons of fluid, quickly and neatly. Replace with 2 gallons of 50/50 and you're all set. Doing this is not only easier, but also keeps your coolant at peak level and eliminates having to ever flush the system.

Great post. Given that Mobile doesn't make a 5W50 motor oil, do you think that Castrol is still very reputable? Since it does get pretty cold up here this time of year, I'd feel more comfortable using at least a 5W, particularly if I make weekend ski runs up to Vermont where it can get very very very very cold (I've skied in -25 degree F weather). Thanks. I run either Castrol or Mobil. Both are good oils.

Exactly. Maybe you should call them up and let them benefit from your knowledge. Cheers, Uwe They probably would benefit from someone elses knowledge. However, the primary reason for the confusion is that people DO NOT read correctly. Porsche DOES not recommend 0W40 in there engine at all times but simply state that it is approved and trhat it is the factory fill. As a matter of fact, below is an excerp from one of Porsches' TSB's. Viscosity The viscosity of an engine oil is specified by the SAE viscosity class. The first number and the letter W (winter) identify the viscosity at lower temperatures. For example: 0W or 5W, where 5W is more viscous than 0W. The second number indicates the viscosity at higher temperatures. For example: 40 or 50, where 40 is less viscous than 50. Multi-grade oils are identified by both viscosity specifications. For example, SAF 0W40 or 5W40 or 5W50. Examples: 0W40 and 5W40 oils have the same viscosity at higher temperatures, however, at lower temperatures, the SW oil is more viscous. 5W40 and 5W50 have the same viscosity at low temperatures, but at higher temperatures, the oil having viscosity class 40 is less viscous. Temperature Ranges Above -12°F. (-25°C): all oils approved by Porsche for the vehicle type to be considered Below -12°F (-25°C:: all oils approved by Porsche for the vehicle type to be considered which have the SAE class 0W at lower temperatures. Keep using the 0W40 in hot climates and we'll continue this conversation when your valve guides wear out along with the main crank bearings. So why the sudden change in "approved" oils?. Why was the factory fill for the 3.4 engine 15W50, yet some say you HAVE to use 0W40 now? Did the engine internals change? Did Porsche originaly make a mistake? Is the "approved" list compiled of the biggest contibutors? There is NO benefit, whatsopever for using 0W40 versus 5W50 or 15W50 when you are in temperatures above 20F. This is not conjecture, but fact. There ARE, however. substantial benefits for using 5W50 or 15W50, which incude less shearing at high engine temperatures, longer adhesion to engine components, less evaporation, less oil usage (for those of you who are burning oil). Even Mobil 1 says that the 15W50 is a great oil: Mobil 1 15W-50 is our most advanced performance synthetic engine oil designed to provide ultimate wear protection for a smooth driving experience every time. Mobil 1 15W-50, Performance Driving Formula, exceeds the requirements of the industry and car manufacturers' standards required for high-performance turbo-charged, supercharged gasoline and diesel multi-valve fuel injected engines. Mobil 1 15W-50 is a winning race proven technology. It is especially suited for high-speed highway, towing, and other severe service situation. Mobil 1 15W-50, Performance Driving Formula, provides extra engine oil performance and protection for the winning edge. Mobil oils are the official oils of NASCAR. So, unless you can somehow make a 0W40 oil protect my engine better than a 15W50 oil at engine temperatures above 230F, I think I'll stick with my uneducated and ignorant decision to use 15W50.

I wouldn't run the 15W50 this time of year in the NE. However, the 50W in the summer will provide you with significantly more protection on the 3.4 engine because the engine runs extremely hot. 15W50 is what I use, but would not shy away from using 5W50 either. It is the 50 that will protect you more from shearing the oil at high temps. Porsche has no idea what they are doing with their oil recommnedations. As a matter of fact, they do not make any recommendations anymore, but simply give you a list of "approved oils". Many, many dealers will fill your crankcase with 15W50. The fact is, a 15W50 oil flows the same as a 0W40 oil all the way down to 14 degrees and a 5W50 flows the same all the way down to -20F.

The only limit to speed on the 996 is mechanical limits. The computer does not limit you at all.

Dog: Is your air pump turning on when you start the car cold? It should run for about a minute after a cold start. If it is running, check the hoses from the pump for leaks. Check the changeover valve's electical and vacuum connections. If pump does not start, check the relay and the electrical connection to the pump.

The normal drain should be about .02 - .03 amps. Check your engine compartment light. Start disconnecting fuses until you see a drop in the drainage.

Is your key in the ignition?

1999porsche911: I live in Southern California. Temperatures range from 65 to 110 year-round. What oil would you recommend I use? I currently run on factory-fill 0-40W Mobil 1 Thanks. Personally, I would run 15W50 all year round. There is no need to go with an oil that is "pourabe" at -60F. You will be fine, also, running 5W50 but the oil has more additives in it to maintain the higher 50W rating. This really is not a problem if you change your oil at regular 5,000 miles or less intrevals. Castrol Syntac makes both weight oils. Are you going through as much oil in the hotter months as you do gas using the 0W40?

Remove the MAF and spray liberaly with electronics cleaner you can get at an ACE hardware store. Put it back in. Remove the intake tube to the throttbody and open the butterfly valve slowly, all the way. Spray liberaly with carb cleaner. Reinstall intake tube. Reboot computer by removing negative battery cable for 2 minutes and then reconnect. You're done. It will take a few drive cycles to get your idle back to being smooth.

What is the protection? Do a little research and you'll see its not for shear strength which is what you need in a high reving, high temperature engine. But, I have no stake in what people use, but have rebuild a few dozen engines that used low viscosity oils. They are not pretty. If it doesn't cause all your seals to leak so you have to replce the engine, you have a good chance seeing the downside of the 0W40 when you get some high miles on the car. Valve guides in particular, along with main bearings. But, to each their own.

You know, I really never understand it when someone puts up a post with a tone like this on a forum dedicated to the friendly sharing of information and insight. Maybe RennList .... but not here. Of course, we all have differences of opinion on many, many subjects .... the right tire, exhaust system, ride height, etc .... but, on some subjects, concrete, authoritative information is fairly easy to come by. Porsche's latest TSB on approved oil recommends the Mobil Synthetic 0W40, as does my dealer (for my 3.4 engine) for any ambient temp .... which probably covers Miami year round. On the other hand, the TSB .... as far as I can find, does not recommend any 10W40 or 15W50 oils under any circumstances. The bold print in the Engine Oil section of my Owners' Manual says, "if in doubt, consult your authorized dealer", so I guess its OK to trust him on this. However, I find no fault with, and have no argument with anyone who chooses to go another way. Porsche approves many different oils, both manufacturers and weights. Finally, I guess I must misunderstand what the TSB says regarding viscosity: You recommend chucking the 0W40 in favor of the 5W40 or 10W40 for the Miami winter ... presumably because those south Florida winters are warm. But, all three of these oils will have the same viscosity at higher temps; the only difference coming into play at an ambient temp below -12F. At that point, the 5W40 would have to be swapped out for 0W40 if a new ice age came to Florida .... and the 10W40 could only be used if one chose to ignore Porsche's latest info. As always, I stand ready to be educated and corrected in my never fully adequate understanding of these wonderful machines and their mysteries. You guys will surely let me know if I've failed Properties of Oil 101. Kim 2000 Cab I didn't know I was so harsh wth my reply, but after readings it again, I see where someone might take it that way. Oh well. As fas as Porsche TSB's on approved oils, it is not a recommnedation to use 0W40. That is only an aprroved oil. We all know (or should know) that a 0W40 oil will not protect an engine that normally runs an oil temp in excess of 230F. Furthermore, people have come to believe that becasue 0W40 is the factory fill, that is a recommendation from Porsche to use it in all climates. It is not. In past TSB's Porsche specifically outlines what weight oil to use in all climates, and in Florida's climate, the suggested weight IS NOT 0W40. The chart below has existed for 30 years. What changed? Maybe just wanting to get a litlte better short term performance out of the engine or a little better gas mileage? The oil didn't change. It still is not certified for any temp above 212F. Our engines run considerably hotter than that.

I know that the 996 has cartridge oil filter and therefore no valve on the filter, but it must have a way of keeping the oil up in the engine. Yes, lifters... I use 0W-40 Mobil 1 and am located in Miami Florida, so most always is over 70F. Stop using the 0W40. Move up to a 5W40 or 10W40 in the winter where you live. Only someone intent on destroying their 3.4 engine would run the 0W40. I won't even run that crap here in Chicago and it's currently 17 degrees outside. In the summer, you should move to a 15W50. Porsche DOES NOT recommend 0W40 in your climate.

Yes it is fine to mix different grades of oil.

If it was me, I would spend a few minutes and yank the alternator and get it tested. These things just don't blow. Could be a simple fix or something else. $625 for a new one. WOW!.

My guess would be that the oil pressure is fine but you have a bad oil sending unit which is not that uncommon. I would pick one up at the dealer and replace myself. Make sure that the electrical connections are tight on the current sending unit. It is located near the fuel rail on bank 2 (passenger side) of the engine. The only other thing it may be as it seems low only at a warm idle, is that your engine is running extremely hot on too thin an oil. You should be running a 15W50 weight oil in your 3.4 living in Miami.