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1999Porsche911

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Everything posted by 1999Porsche911

  1. The abruptness is most likely caused by where the pedal is when the pressure plate kicks the actuator arm out all the way. In certain positions, this upward pressure on the pedal along with the pivot of the pedal boost spring will make smooth release of the pedal nearly impossible. Lowering the engagement point of the pedal will reduce the pull effect of the boost spring. Or you can eliminate it all together by removing the spring and drive the car without pedal assiatnce. Much smoother, Removing the spring is also the best way to feel the movement of the entire clutch system for diagnossis.
  2. That's my guess along with heavy lobbying by Mobil. You get slightly more power using a thinner oil, but at a cost in the long run. It does not provide proper protection of these hot running engines as well as encourages seal leakage.
  3. I thought you were doing the obvious and get a new $48 battery from Costco or Samsclub? Or, you can wait to be jump started a few more time til you get a new one.
  4. Here you have Castrol Formula RS 10W60. This is from the Castrol spanish web: Castrol Fórmula RS 10W-60 Lubricante 100% sintético de la más alta calidad, desarrollado especialmente para motores de automóviles deportivos de elevada potencia. Recomendado para su uso en competición. API SL/CF, ACEA A3/B3/B4, BMW M5, Porsche Approved As you can see, they say it's Porsche Approved. we usually call it "the elixir" when we talk about BMW engines. Porsche loves to change their recommended oils. The 996 used to come with 15W50 from the factory, now, that same oil in the same engine will make it blow up or something. So either Porsche recommended the wrong oil to begin with or they are recommending the wrong oil now. Either way, it demonstrates that they have no idea what the best oil is for their cars. IMO, stay away from The Mobil water in any climate that is regularly above 30 degrees. Raise your hot viscosity to 50 and the cold to at least 5. If you like the tick tick tick of the lifters in hot weather at startup, stay with the water.
  5. Try this the next time the car is cold. Before starting it, work the clutch pedal numerous times, up and down. You are try to warm up the pivot points of the pedals as well as the actuator arm in the bellhousing. Really work it. Now start it up and see if the symptom of the shudder is less or gone.
  6. A hydraulic clutch system without an adjustable piston either at the slave or the pedal will always engage at the top of the pedal if the system is free of air. No matter how high or low you adjust the pedal, the engagement will still be at the top of the pedal release. Only by somehow establishing play in the hydraulic system can you reduce the level at which the clutch will engage. On a cable controlled clutch, this was accomplished by indroducing slack into the line. With hydraulics, the fluid is the cable and without adjustable pistons, the only way you can introduce slack is to intoduce air. This allows the pedal to be pressed down further before the line is compressed enough to begin working. It is a perminant and dependable solution and has been a standard way of adjusting hydraulic clutches since they were first introduced.
  7. If I understand your probem correctly, you do not like that the clutch engages so far from the floor. In this case, the easy fix is to introduce air into the hydraulic system. Depress the pedal a few inches and open the bleeder on the slave. Pull the pedal to the top and close the bleeder. This will introduce a little air to the system and your pedel travel will remain the same but it will have increased free travel at the top and engage closer to the floor. Repeat until the pedal engages where you want. Much easier to drive this way.
  8. If the noise is coming from within the bellhousing, it may be caused by a defective actuator lever. There is also a TSB issued for this. The noise itself if not a problem, but as the clutch wears, the bad lever can cause the release bearing to hang up for a few seconds when releasing the clutch pedal causing the clutch to slip momentarily. There is a new lever designed and used now. If there is no slippage and the noise is not too annoying, replacement can wait til clutch is replaced. Parts cost approximately $50.
  9. What year car? Noise from pedal area or under car in bellhousing? If it's from the pedal, I used lithium spray 5 years ago and haven't had the noise since.
  10. Try a little rubber conditioner to soften up the seal.
  11. Clean up both ends of the parts that broke with alcohol and epoxy them together. You insert the non ribbed part of the tube into the ribbed part a little bit. This is a perminant fix. Use the proper epoxy for plastic and make sure you have a complete seal around the entire tube. I'm sorry but I totally disagree on gluing the oil tube together. It probably would not stick after awhile and the glue may find it's way into the oil pan and possibly clog up your oil system. Don't be cheap and buy a brand new one and feel better about it. I have done exactly what I explained above to more than 5 966's, including my 99 C2 5 years and 40,000 miles ago. They have all held and sealed. It is a perminant fix and oil will not effect cured epoxy. BUT, for those that are unable to repair things themselves, that's what they make part's department for. Your concerns about the epoxy not sticking or falling into the pan are wrong for several reasons. First, the glue is perminent and second, the glue is on the outside of the tube. It's funny how none of you have ever done this yet you are experts on how it would not work. :( The time to complete the fix is 15 minutes. It is a 2 hours job to install a new one.
  12. Clean up both ends of the parts that broke with alcohol and epoxy them together. You insert the non ribbed part of the tube into the ribbed part a little bit. This is a perminant fix. Use the proper epoxy for plastic and make sure you have a complete seal around the entire tube.
  13. Only the non-egas cars need to have the DME re-programmed when changing the MAF. That is because the MAF used on the early (C2) non-egas cars is no longer made. To use the newer MAF the DME needs to be re-programmed. Since you have a C4 - you have egas and there should be no need to re-program the DME. Perhaps your OPC was confused and thought your car was a C2. Loren, the original part number for the 99 C2 is still available. They are not superceded and do not need calibration. Part number 996 606 123 00 whereas the egas for the 3.4 is 996 606 124 00. You can get the Bosch part from an after market supplier or from the dealer. Same part number as is my orginal MAF with a March 1998 build date.
  14. Just another attempt to rip off a customer. Now you know not to trust this guy in the future. Unless you have a CEL, the is no need to reset the computer by disconnecting the battery. Either way, it will take a few drive cycles for the computer to adjust to the new MAF. Take your wife to dinner on the money you save. You can get a new MAF online for less than $250.
  15. When is it running rough? On a cold engine, when fully warmed up, idling, cruising, all the above? Make sure dip stick and oil cap are on tight.
  16. No ramps needed. If your car has been lowered, simply drive it up on a couple of 2x boards and you'll have all the room you need.
  17. The 99 will take a few drive cycles to completely reset the computer and it should idle fine then, If not, could be a vaccum line is off or a dirty MAF which can easily be cleaned.
  18. Depends on tire size, but with 265/35/18 you would have to shift at 131 mph which is the speed at a redline of 7300 rpm.
  19. However, if you read his post, he said the word "MANUEL" appeared. With 1 "L". :beer:
  20. However, it was Karl Benz who designed the first boxer engine more than 100 years ago.
  21. The biggest advantage of the flat six is that it allows the weight of the engine to be installed lower in the car, substantially improving handling through lower weight distribution. It also makes for a wider engine.
  22. You can get the tool for a couple bucks at any auto store or Walmart.
  23. There was an option where you could program your own name into the display. I suspect some Spanish guy owned the car before you. :clapping:
  24. If you are using 0W40 (especially in Charlotte), get rid of it and use a 5W50 Castrol Syntec or Mobil 1 15W50. This will reduce oil bleed down in the tappets as well as provide you better protection of the engine when it sits for a few days and better overall protection from heat.
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