1999Porsche911

Typical throwout bearing problems will be louder when pedel is depressed and definately change when pedal is released. You need to isolate the noise as to whether it is from engine or the bellhousing. If it is in the bellhousing, most likely a broken spring on the flywheel. This happens at times and can make a hell of a racket as the flywheel is not as tight as it should be and the spring is rattling because one side is not connected. If it is the engine, it could be valves otr the intermediate shaft or any number of other things. Find out from where the noise is coming from and let us know.

If you have never changed the lube, you should do so. Pick up 3 liters of Shell Transaxle from the Porsche dealer.

A/C clutch disintegrated would be my guess.

Remove the idle control valve from the left side of the throttlebody and clean it real well with carb cleaner. Make sure window pivots smoothly.

I'll go recheck I know I can do it with the car running and I'm pretty sure I can with it off oh as a matter of fact, yes I know it shifts without issue. I'll get it jacked up shortly and check it out can you tell me which side the linkage is on? I have not really thought of checking that before but it makes sense. I just really been to busy with things going on and it is disheartening. I have mods and things that I haven't gotten to install. I am painting my family bath tonight after I just finished a joist up redo. of all the bathrooms in the house, it'll be nice to have the first one completed! Toilet downstairs with the sink and the shower upstairs!?! Anyways I'll be back in 15 minutes I have to use the factory jack so I can get the car high enough to get the floor jack under it? But She is glued to the road and looks Brutal! Linkage is on passenger side of tranny.

Hey hows it going? That is exactly how it feels. I mean exactly but I cannot figure out why it would only be in 2nd that I would run in to it. I adjusted the B&M from one extreme to the other with no benifit. Over engaging the odd gears and then to over engage the even gears, but to my dismay there was no change. When I shift I depress the pedal and pull it from first to second and holding the shifter back when I slowly release the clutch it goes from quiet to me feeling the teeth barely biting and then when the clutch is engaged it just feels like theres only 2mm worth of the teeth actually touching and it just goes BRrrrrrrup and misses. I described it to Karl from Imagine Auto as picture fitting a piston into it's sleeve and if it's perfect then it slides in smooth well it feels like on of the rings is snagging on the sleeve and keeping it from going all the way in. When I try and shift, it just like you said that one gear is just not engaging and with the clutch depressed it is partially engaged but when you slowly release the clutch and it grabs the torque beats out the little bite it has and it jumps out. Where can I try and check the linkage I will take a competant mans approach but it will be in ignorance of the subject. I understand tranny's fit and function but the ever so concealed 996 is a real bugger asside from the fact mine sits 2.5 inches off the ground. The rear Champion 3pc. wheels are tucked. If anyone has a schematic or two I would be indebted and I will post all my findings should it be a gremlin in the system and not just general tranny failure! Thanks Can you sit in your car without it running and switch easily beteen 1st and 2nd? My guess is it either the shifter linkage which you have already tried or the linkage on the side of the tranny catching on something. You can pull the panel under the car and watch the linkage move while some goes through the gears. Could be a bad bushing or loose bracket. If it is neither of those, it has to be internal, but I find that unlikely.

Sure sounds like linkage problem to be. It appears that the transmission is only going into 2nd gear part way. Check underbody linkage for binding. You are correct that a bad clutch would effect all gears.

And, why did you not give us that information to begin with? You can rule out the motor or anything else that has moving parts that do not rely on car movement or clutch operation. Is the noise louder or softer when the clutch is depressed? How about when the transmission is in neutral and the clutch is not depressed? Louder in gear or out?

Because of PMS or PSM, whichever it is called, the LSD in the 2004 was extremely weak. I think it was something like only 22% because anything stronger would interfere with the stability managemnt system.

Try unplugging your secondary air pump.

:censored: Are you for real? The driving characteristics of the C4 is a (little) bit different than of the C2. But to say that a C4 driver would be slower in a C2 is just plain stupid and a lack of judgment from your side... Regards, Karl You must be smoking something real good if you think it does not take more skill to get a RWD car around a track as fast as the same car with AWD. Maybe you started your weekend early?

Try starting the engine with the oil cap removed.

If you want more of a true sports car where less of the computer controls the car and your mistakes, go with the 99 C2 with LSD. This is the one and ONLY watercooled 911 that is a driver's car. Beginning with the 99 C4, Porsche uses Egas, no true LSD and PSM. These can greatly interferes with development of proper driving skills for many reasons, including lessening the power to the wheels when a wheel loses traction rather than maintaining power and balancing it between the wheels. The AWD, IMO, just is not right for a sport's car and although it may perform better in some situations, it's performance is not necessarily due to the driver's skill. The C2 requires much more skill to drive to the same degree. A driver of a C2 that can make it around the track in a specific amount of time, will also be able to get the C4 around the track in the same amount of time. This is not necessarily true for a skilled C4 driver. If you are just going to tool around like probably 90% of sportcar owners, it makes no difference which one you buy since it is for the prestige only. Same thing goes with getting a TIP unless you are unable to drive a manual transmission.

I agree with running ATF through the system for a while. You can add a quart of the stuff to the crankcase and let it idle for 30 minutes or so. No worry about having too much fluid in the crankcase at idle and not enough ATF to effect sensors. Then drain the oil and throw in 15W50.

Up to 10% ethanol is perfectly fine and does slightly raise the Octane level.

A hard pedal, in no way indicates a bad pressure plate. As a matter of fact, the stronger your pressure plate is, the harder the pedal will be. If your pressure plate was getting weak, your pedal would become easier to depress.

Stock brakes should lockup (well, actually activate ABS) when pressed moderately hard. Race pads are not the answer as they will not stop a street car any faster becasue the rubber is your weak link. You may have a problem with the hydraulic system including booster, regulator or pre charge pump. Vacuum leak can cause pedal to be harder but should still stop the car if pressed hard enough.

You mention that the inside wear is more than normal. Inside wear IS normal when you have a negative camber setting as per Porche's specs. The only way to reduce this uneven wear is to reduce the amount of camber. For street driving, you will not notice any difference in handling and your tires will last much longer. Your uneven wear will be the same whether you run 265's or 315's.

I suspect you Firebirds were recent machine cuz you cannot get a hydraulic clutch as hard to push as the old muscle cars even if you were missing half the fingers on the pressure plate. A hydraulic clutch is self adjusting, replacing the gap caused by the disc wearing down with more hydraulic fluid, exactly like your braking system. The Porsche' clutch pedal setup sucks as it uses crappy disigned booster spring to help with pushing the pedal down. This sometimes causes uneven pedal release which is sometimes feared to be clutch problems. One way to test the clutch is to find a road where you can do about 75 mph. Do a redline shift from 2nd - 3rd gear and watch the tach. The tach should drop at the shift point and then begin climbing steadily with no hesitation or drop back. You will also feel the clutch slip if it going to. This apply maximum torque to the clutch system and if it is going to slip, it will slip. Common causes of hard pedal is insufficient clutch bleeding.

Your MAF reading at idle is fine, but at speed, it is not registering high enough. This means that the computer thinks there is less air than is actually getting to the engine and the computer is adding too little fuel, causing your lean condition. Why just 98% throttle. Is this a 99 C2. Your cable may have stretched a little and you need to remove it from the throttlebody and twist it once or twice (effectively shortening it) until you get 100%. This can be tested without driving the car.

What was the MAF reading at idle? Test to see if the program shut off all the error reporting of the DME. Remove the MAF cable from the MAF and see if you get a CEL. Some programs shut off the system so they can push the limits of the engine. Also check to see if whoever did the tuning put a resister inline on the MAF cable to reduce voltage output. This is sometimes done to reduce current to the DME when an intake mod is done a which increases airflow and therefore voltage to the MAF.

Well, the first thing I would do it check the other tailpipe to see if it also shows bank 2 is also showing lean at WOT. If bank 2 shows proper AFR, then the problem is with bank 1, (injectors, o2 sensors or exhaust componants). If it shows the same (and it is an accurate reading), then the problem would include a componant that controls both banks, such as MAF, fuel regulator, tuning, fuel pump, vacuum leak, etc. Check what the after cat sensors show...both banks.

Yes, runinng that lean at WOT will increase the risk of frying your engine. How was the afr measured? Left, right or both tailpipes? I find it hard to believe that you would run that lean. Maybe a problem with dyno's sensor. Take a look at your after cat O2 sensor readings at wot above 4500 rpm using a scanner. What are their values?

What plugs are you running? If you have small leak in an injector, it will not effect driving, but after shut down, it will leak until pressure in the fuel line is depleted, causing it hard to start. If you have the ability, hook up a pressure gauge to the fuel line and see if it drops overnight. If it is not hard starting after it sits for a long time but only within an hour or so after shut down, one cause is running too rich which can also be caused by leaky injector(s) that may not leak enough to effect normal driving.

For what? Your charging system already does that.