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rprieto
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Thank you for these guides. Based on what is observed it refers me now to Chapter 11 (0-142). Is this information available? Odd thing is that after clearing the transmission fault codes, they have not yet reappeared. I will go through the steps here and I may also try to remove and replace the filter and ATF this weekend. I’m also looking for a local mechanic as my regular place does not work on Tiptronic transmissions.
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Durometric pulled Tiptronic P1818 and P1823 codes after I was unable to shift into any gear on my Boxster. There has never been any issues whatsoever with the transmission. However, while parking my car the previous night, I accidently turned off the car while in Drive. - At the dash with engine started, the dash correctly displays proper gear to match the shift lever, but the car does not budge. - The mechanical linkage at the rear is all connected. - I checked fluid level and and some fluid did come out at the fill area but the fluid is very dark with NO burnt smell. - I reset the Tiptronic fault codes and later disconnected the battery for 30+ minutes to no avail. --- Also, odd thing is that the Tiptronic fault codes no longer return after reset. They show green state. My local shop says they don't work on Tiptronics. I read I can R&R the ATF and Filter and I am considering that myself. However, I need a plan of attack. I live in Riverside County California. Please advise. Thanks.
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Good morning Loren, Had a very quiet drive this AM after swapping out my radio display. CR-220 type: 4362 SN: Y5021762 Thanks in advance, RP
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I know this is an old post but I agree with smygolf. The bypass should have gone between chamber 1 and 2. The only change that I can imagine would be in the acoustic tone. I admit... it LOOKS nice... but... I don't see anything being bypassed. I am interested in how you cleaned the exhaust up. SLICK!
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Fuel Sender Unit Replacement Help Needed
rprieto replied to rprieto's topic in 986 Series (Boxster, Boxster S)
2002... was in the tag line. Got it off finally. That connection is just very, very snug. The plastic buttons were depressed enough. I just pushed down the connector after I felt it budge a bit. What a pain. Everything works after a 10 mile test drive. I put 1/2 tank of gas in and it seems to register properly. I will fill it up in a few days and drive it till it goes red to make sure everything registers properly. Hoping I don't need it recalibrated. BTW I was able to use a loaner OEM Fuel Pump Replacement Kit PN 27160 I got from Autozone. Made removing and replacing the large ring quite easy and, in the end, won't cost me anything after I return it. -
I'm having great difficulty removing the vertical fuel line, within the tank, that connects to the fuel sending unit. Is there a trick or a tool that I may need? Please advise.
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Secondary Air Test Readiness monitor incomplete
rprieto replied to mesutter's topic in 986 Series (Boxster, Boxster S)
I found a crack in the bottom side of my vacuum reservoir. I used a MityVac hand vacuum pump with gauge to fault isolate to this $28 part, PN 99311014003. That has to be the LEAST expensive thing I've ever purchased direct from the dealer. Last night the Secondary Air Test Readiness FINALLY set for me. I drove several drive cycles mentioned above and everything BUT Secondary Air got set. However, I remembered something. Prior to R&R of the vacuum reservoir, I never got a P0410 and P1411 CEL unless I started and immediately drove my car within the first 2 min and 10 seconds. Figuring I may have had yet another issue, I started and drove it immediately.... I kept the car within the 720 - 2800 rpm range for that ~2 min duration while exiting a parking lot. Shortly thereafter... I verified the readiness flag for Secondary Air was READY! "Thank you JESUS!" So, if you are having problems... try driving it immediately at cold start within the 720 to 2800 rpm range. I just PASSED smog this morning. Funny to watch the tech first open the rear, then the front trunk. He looked at me perplexed asking..... "where's the engine?" I had to remove the engine access lid for him to visually see the "air pump" (his words). I gave him a quick overview of how the system works and what I had replaced. TOO FUNNY! -
Fuel Odor / Smell - Front of Vehicle
rprieto replied to rprieto's topic in 986 Series (Boxster, Boxster S)
Fuel Sending Unit Cracked... again! First occurred after 7 years in 2009. I just confirmed my Fuel Sender is cracked again and in EXACTLY the SAME PLACE. What is surprising is this is almost 7 years since I had the first one replaced. This time I will go DIY.... anyone live near Corona, CA? :-) Sunset seems to have the best price today at $232.33 plus tax and shipping. http://www.sunsetporscheparts.com/oe-porsche/99662083202 -
Have you a diy on this?
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Have you a diy on this?
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I am in full agreement with JFP. Sunset Porsche is the way to go for sure. I went with another popular company and purchased front pads made by the same OEM MFG. However, they were NOT OEM pads but had the same form, fit, and function. I find the brake dust, on the replaced pads, is noticeably darker and therefore looks dirtier. Almost like the dark brake dust you might see on a BMW's rim. I find myself having to wipe my rims down periodically to keep them clean looking. For brakes, OEM is the way to go.
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Drive it immediately after a cold start. In your case, drive it BEFORE 2m15s. If all is will, it will be set. BTW: The system will always check this upon cold start. MOST of the time I let my car idle for a couple of mins in the AM and PM. As such, the Secondary Air Test is rarely set.
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Fairly certain you have a micro-switch problem mentioned by crwarren11 above. I have the same issue but mine shows up using Durametric.
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Two things... 1. I replaced my AOS this past weekend after getting a P1128 and P1130 codes thrown. Quick check is by trying to remove the oil cap with engine in idle. A bad AOS will make it difficult to remove. I had much difficulty removing mine when it failed while idling. Everything works great now. I've you lived nearby... I would help. 2. Regarding your Secondary Air Test Readiness monitor incomplete... It will never set the complete flag if you DON'T drive it within the first 90-120 seconds after a cold start. Once that Secondary Air Pump shuts down after the cold start.... it won't set. So... DRIVE it after you start it... then it will set.... no big deal. I too live in California.... if you are looking to smog it...for your year... you can pass smog if the evaporative system is not ready. https://www.bar.ca.gov/pdf/Smog_Check_OBD_Reference_Guide.pdf Cold start, DRIVE it... then check the readiness monitor.
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Door locks rapidly clicking.
rprieto replied to 986inthe941's topic in 986 Series (Boxster, Boxster S)
To me it sounds like a microswitch or regulator within the passenger door. Search within renntech or look at the Pelican links below. I am investigating my window not always rolling down once the door opens. http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/Boxster_Tech/78-BODY-Door_Handle_and_Lock/78-BODY-Door_Handle_and_Lock.htm http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/Boxster_Tech/77-BODY-Window_Regulator/77-BODY-Window_Regulator.htm