steve20186

I'm selling/trading my '99 911 and this guy wants to do a partial trade. I'm around the Wash. DC area so I can't look at it myself. Before I took the next step though, I wanted to see if it's even worthwhile. FWIW - he's a dealer but the car is his personal car. Thanks.

OK. No, I was not aware. I think it's pretty cool. I see my seats are Recaro. It makes sense not to reinvent the wheel - or other parts... Thanks!

Some photos. Am I the only one who finds this interesting?

I just did a rear wheel bearing on my '99 and found the Brembo name or logo cast into the caliper, the hub and upright - along with the familiar Porsche logo. I was only surprised that this wasn't mentioned in my "Porsche 996, The Essential Companion"..then again I could have missed it.

The "remove" was fairly straightforward Using an extended breaker bar, I cracked the axle nut while the car was still on the ground. Axle nut takes a 32mm socket Get the caliper and the wires that go to it out of the way since there are heavy parts moving around the last thing I wanted was to accidentally pinch-cut one of them. Caliper bolts are 10mm Allen I used an impact driver to remove the screws that hold the brake disc to the hub http://local.sears.com/Craftsman-Impact-Driver/p-00947641000P?st=2395&sid=IDx20141117x00001xlpla Used a slide hammer to yank off the hub. You can probably borrow one of those from Autozone. Had to remove both carrier end bolts for the upper control arms as well as the lower shock bolt and one end of the sway bar link in order to swing the carrier outward to get the drive axle removed. Drive axle bolts are 8mm Allen. The bearing tool I mentioned had a "puck" that measured 77.5 mm and this fit well in the back (trans side) to successfully push the bearing out into the receiver side of the tool. I've done the extraction step by hand on my Audi using a breaker bar, but I recently got a significantly more powerful 3/4 impact gun, so I was able to use that entirely. I did have to pause several times to let my compressor catch up. Grease the threads of the tool too. I also buy grade 8 washers for the tall nut on the tool so it doesn't dig into the receiver puck when tightening - I use 2. I also quickly found that I needed to reattach the upper control arms since the carrier would want to move - negating the impact ratchet blows. It took probably 15 minutes to push the bearing out, but I could see it was moving slightly the whole time so that was encouraging. I have to wait to get a new hub before "re-installation".

So the clicking sound persisted and never really changed but I never did get a classic hum of a bad bearing, nor did the temps of the axle nuts ever differ significantly. What finally did happen was the noise of it inner brake disc hat scraping a part of the backing plate returned. So I jacked it up and the wheel was wobbly again. I disassembled the bugger today found this. I'm curious what folks think caused the failure. Neither the inner nor outer balls were bad. The inner even turned smoothly. But as you can see, the wheel hub is toast. Obviously the inner/inner race went into asynchronous to the hub at some point. Looks like there was some rust in there. But thankfully the axle look to be fine. Also, does anyone know if the Boxster rear wheel hub is interchangeable - there's a local Boxster being parted out so if possible I'd like to go that route. My hub 996-331-605-04 Boxter is 996-331-605-54 Thanks FYI - this set from Harbor Freight did the trick removing the old bearing with the carrier still on the car http://www.harborfreight.com/fwd-front-wheel-bearing-adapters-66829.html I think ATD makes a similar set that may be le$$.

Update: I'd left the centercaps off the wheels so I could re-tighten the flange nut if necessary, as well as take a temp reading to see if it differed from the passenger side. There was a temp difference, but only a slight one. Last night I decided to jack the driver side up and re-check the e-brake internals - they were fine. So while up, I also tried to duplicate the noise while listening with an auto-stethoscope on the hub. Using a long breaker bar I had my son apply rotational force one way, and then the other. I wasn't able to get a full crunch-click, but a slight one. Enough to find that it was louder at the CV side than the hub. So maybe it's the CV afterall??? So on the way to work this morning it occurred to me that I really only hear the noise when starting forward or back from a dead stop. So if I was able to make the noise with the e-brake on and my foot firmly on the brake, that would keep the wheel from moving and potentially isolate it to the CV - by all means, please correct me if I'm missing something - it was before coffee after all. It made the noise like it does when starting off normally so I'm now thinking it's probably the outer CV since the bearing wasn't rotating. Unfortunately, it seems like the outer CV isn't replaceable like the inner is and that I'm left with getting a new drive axle $$ :eek: $$ I've disassembled, cleaned and repacked CV's on my Audi - even the splined side, but if it's making noise, is it a lost cause? Thanks.

I pulled the drum and nothing fell out or looked odd. When I bolted the wheel back on I did detect some very slight play in something - it wasn't pronounced enough for me to conclude it was the bearing though, and the noise is so odd that I wanted to get some other opinions. I've also looked over the suspension pieces and checked the strut spring back there - everything seemed tight.

It started a week ago with a slight intermittent scraping sound - like a pebble was stuck behind the backing plate so I put the car on a lift and saw that the back inner edge of the rotor hat was contacting the backing plate but very slightly. I then tried to move the wheel side to side and there was a definitive clunk. I checked the other side and it was solid. I ordered and rec'd a bargain priced OEM Porsche bearing from Sunset PA in Beaverton, OR. Friday night I put the car back on the lift, removed the wheel and started at it. Because I had a POS Audi A4 that went through 4 bearing in less than a year, I knew the center nut can be difficult so I tried it first just to get a feel for . It turned with easily so I turned it to tighten and made about 3/4 of a turn before it got tight. I torqued it to about 100 ft-lbs and then re-installed the wheel to see if it was still wobbly. It wasn't. I went ahead and removed the nut completely, added loctite to the clean threads and then re-torqued it and drove it probably 35 miles over the next few days. Then on my lunch hour today I started hearing the weird noise. I did a search and found a post where a bad CV joint was suggested but that doesn't seem to be the issue based on the suggested test in the post and on my attempts to wiggle it while up on the lift. Never had the classic hum like the Audi or other cars I've had with bad bearings, Anyhow, here is a video compilation of me going forward and back with the iPhone held near the wheel. http://youtu.be/Z9Ld70nkzek

Is the wheel carrier supposed to rest on this (circled in red) tang that's on the strut?

'99 C2 996 I replaced the drop links on the front of my car and as I was tightening the upper bolts - which is the pinch bolt for the strut - I wondered what was keeping the strut in place. I decided to take a picture of the top and it seems that they moved slightly. Is this a problem? Should I have removed the wheels beforehand?

Got the clips and there is a subtle difference between the 2. 999 507 505 40 Grey clip exists on my car on the upper part of the door panel - above the carpeted area 999 507 582 40 White clip -- I found these only on the carpeted part of the door panel

Sure enough, I tried to remove one today and it was so brittle it broke. Now there are part numbers for white and grey. My panel seems to have both colors installed. Is there a difference other than color?

My bushings were intact but weak enough to cause the unintended horn blow. I ended up using some fuel injector o-rings. They fit sungly around the isolated center bushing and seem to add just enough firmness. I only added them to the side that has the contact points. Seems to work well. I had some leftover from a recent FI replacement on our minivan, but you can buy a kit of 12 for under $8 local - it's a Standard Brand part. Or from here: http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=47178&cc=1432097. Oh my...I just admitted to using minivan parts on a Porsche :eek:

It looks like the clips that hold the panel on are there, but not working properly. There also seems to be some foam perimeter seal along the edge that may be preventing them from fully inserting in the metal part of the door. I thought at first in might be the weight of my 9mm in the armrest bin, but I moved it and the panel still comes off. I found the posts on door panel removal, but nothing that has addressed this issue. Thanks