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LVDell

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LVDell last won the day on July 10 2022

LVDell had the most liked content!

About LVDell

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  • Gender
    Male

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  • From
    North Carolina
  • Porsche Club
    PCA (Porsche Club of America)
  • Present cars
    996CAB, 964RSA, 996GT3, 986

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  1. Very welcome. Glad you found our little space on the internet!
  2. Stock. Have you seen the nice unit already present in the car? It's hidden under the plastic valences. FYI.....same setup in the cups!
  3. The stock rotors are not expensive at all and are proven. That's what I stick with. When it comes to items like brakes, I will ONLY go with what is proven and if an "aftermarket" item pops up it generally isn't worth saving a couple dollars. At about $150 a rotor, there is no reason to skimp. Just my $.02 If a company like Powerslot would make replacements then it would be a nice option. I guess the problem is there really isn't a huge demand for stock 996 Turbo rotors in the market as most guys spending $$$ on rotors for their Turbo are in the upgrade club. Now, if you want to upgrade, there are options that are tried and true but you are looking at $500+ a corner.
  4. Nevermind, sneaky bastard was hidden well.
  5. Doing a tranny fluid change on a 2006 Cayman (6sp) and can't find the tranny fill plug. These are obvious on the 996 cars but we don't see it anywhere. THANKS FOR ANY QUICK HELP AS THE CAR IS ON THE LIFT!!!! :)
  6. Thanks for the kind words Mike! Glad my thread was able to help. Cheers, Dell

  7. Dude - I'm a weekend warrior mechanic with lily white hands and a 2002 996t. I started changing my oil for the first time yesterday, got to the last and left side turbo drain plug and it stripped. Luckily found your string from 2004 and photos and worda and voila, it is out. YOU ROCK! Thanks a lot.

    Mike - Bellevue, WA

  8. Sorry Loren, I forgot to delete my post. I didn't realize this wasn't the DIY thread and it was the other link that has the pics. Sorry :)
  9. Owner of both here as well. Very simply, the GT3 takes some serious skill to drive fast and at the limit but if you have that skill it is VERY easy to drive. The RSA on the other, regarding of how much skill you have will be an incredible workout when you finish a session. The lack of power steering, the shorter wheelbase, and the lack of power all contribute to you having to really work to get the car going toward the limit. When I would be done from a session in the GT3 that everything went well I would feel so refreshed and pumped on andrenaline. When I would be done from a session in the RSA that everything went well I would feel like I went 12 rounds with a boxer and got my tail kicked in. I would be spent mentally and physically. With that said, they were both a blast to drive. If I had to choose, the GT3 wins hands down. Just nothing else like it.
  10. Thanks Loren! Also, thanks for deleting my double posting of the DIY (I goofed and hit submit twice). I was going to PM you about it but it was already gone!
  11. Dension Install In 996 Turbo With Cdr23 (Complete Step-By-Step+Pics) Dension install in 996 Turbo with CDR23 (complete step-by-step with pics) Car: 2003 Turbo Head Unit: CDR23 (MOST bus based system) So I spent hours reading up on the install to make sure I knew how to install this unit before I tackled it. The one thing I found was NOBODY has posted a simple thread that details step-by-step what to do. There is a thread over in the 997 fourm that is almost 600 posts long and while it has some great info, it's VERY DIFFICULT to get anything from it. Took Author LVDell Category Carrera (996) - Accessories Submitted 04/02/2010 03:02 PM Updated 09/13/2016 08:51 AM
  12. Dension install in 996 Turbo with CDR23 (complete step-by-step with pics) Car: 2003 Turbo Head Unit: CDR23 (MOST bus based system) So I spent hours reading up on the install to make sure I knew how to install this unit before I tackled it. The one thing I found was NOBODY has posted a simple thread that details step-by-step what to do. There is a thread over in the 997 fourm that is almost 600 posts long and while it has some great info, it's VERY DIFFICULT to get anything from it. Took me several hours to read it. And between my frsutration that there was not a single thread docoumenting a DIY and the fact that somebody posted in that monster 600 post thread that somebody needs to do it, I decided it was time to make one for the next guy that needs the help. LESSONS LEARNED: A few things before you get started. I would highly suggest getting the ipod extension cable if you plan to install your ipod in the cabin versus the front boot. The included cable is VERY short and will just barely reach to the glove box. Also, check to see which type of connector you have. If you have a Yazaki connector instead of the more common Tyco then you will also need to order the Yazaki adapter. I had to AFTER the install was almost comlpete! It's very easy to check ahead of time by looking at the connector type that goes into the amp. IN the picture, the Yazaki connector is the larger opaque one and the smaller clear one is the Tyco. The Yazaki can also be black, etc, depending on the plastic color the vendor uses. The big difference is the size. Yaz is bigger. As far as removing the fiber optic lines from the connectors you need to first remove the locking piece (it snaps down in the middle of the connector and wedges between the two lines to hold them in). Remove that piece first. Just snaps in and out. The remove the fiber optic lines from the connector after the lock is removed you just use an eyeglass screwdriver or the such to lift up gently and not very much the tap that is holding the line in place. Install: 1. Removed the battery from the front boot. 2. Removed the rubber gromet that is behind the battery on the firewall 3. Cut an "X" into the gromet so I could fee the two wires through to the cabin (the aux-in race cables for the sat radio and the ipod cable. 4. Used a coat hanger with the two cable taped to the end to get them easily fed down to where the pedals are. 5. Removed the tape and then ran the cable to where they would have their final install location. 6. I put the ipod cable in the rear center console so I needed to remove the center console to run that cable as well as cut a notch in the plastic cover plate under the rubber insert in the rear center console so I could feed the cable through. 7. I ran the aux-in rca cables to my XM radio SkyDock for the iPhone. NOW FOR THE DENSION UNIT INSTALL 8. Rather than tap into an unswitched power source, it was much easier to just run right into the battery since Dension include an in-line fuse with their power wire. The Dension unit requires an unswitched source so the battery is the way to go. I also tapped into the grounding block for the battery as well. 9. Now for the most "difficult" part of the install. Running the fiber optic lines. I needed to brush up on how the system works to understand it. Basically, think of the MOST Bus system as a circle. Fiber optic light send the signal in this circle and direction is VERY important. All the connectors (both in the car as well as the Dension) have "--->" and "<----" arrows stamped so you can make sure you are running the proper direction. The easiest way to insert (a bridge if you will) the Dension into the fiber optic loop is at the amp connection. 10. Remove the connector from the amp (2 hard orange wires) and remove the line that is going "IN" marked by the arrow pointing INTO the amp. This wire now becomes the "IN" on your Dension unit. I also cut away the black fabric wrap on the two fiber optic lines so I had some slack to play with making the connections easier. 11. Since I had the Yazaki connector type I just needed to run the original "IN" fiber optic cable that went into the amp to the "IN" on the Yazaki harness. It already comes with one cable with a Yazaki connector in it which will be in the "OUT" side of the harness. 12. The "OUT" on the Yazaki harness no goes into the "IN" on the amp connector that is now vacant. 13. If for some reason you do NOT need to use the Yazaki kit (since you have Tyco connectors) then you would do the same process but with the Tyco connector harness included with the Dension. 14. Here is what the loop should now look like starting at the car's fiber optic harness you removed from the amp. Amp IN is now Dension IN. Dension OUT is now Amp IN. I drew a picture of what it should look like before and after. 15. Now test all your connections by replacing your battery and firing up your car selecting "CD" on the head unit. MAKE SURE YOUR CD CHANGER OPTION IS ACTIVATED. If you do not have a CD changer already in the car, the dealer will need to use the PIWIS to alert the system to be able to see the CD changer present which is what the Dension unit needs to make itself known. 16. I used heavy duty velcro to mount the Dension unit and Aux-in piece to the front boot carpet so I didn't have to drill anything Feel free to ping any questions here if you get confused. I have attached pictured of just about every step I listed. A big thanks to Eric at Bumerplugs for helping me out along the way and offereing a great prodcut at a very good price! I'm sure after reading this and remembering a few things I'll post back a few more hints, etc.. **here is another thread just added by another member that will help those that plan to use the CDC with the system THREAD**
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