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Ross1
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I’m trying to figure out a good way to test the fuel pump while it is out of the car. Logically, I would think that the pump would push fluids out one of the hoses when voltage is applied to the pump. My assumptions is that the new pump is good. I don’t understand why it would not send fluids out the hose when it is outside the vehicle and being powered while submerged in fluids. Any insight would be appreciated. The pump actually runs. It is an OEM replacement and looks exactly like the original. Include number designations. I was experimenting with the old pump, and noticed fluid was pushing out the bottom. I reversed polarity (positive on black, negative on red). The pump started working properly. I went back to the car and did a continuity test. The red wire on the pump traces back to the solid red wire on the harness that connects to the sending unit. That wire is connected to ground. So, it seems the pump wire colors are not accurate in regard to convention. The new pump is colored the same way. I’m confident that I needed a new pump. I tried to do a volume test on the old pump, but the motor began to fade after about 10 seconds. Time to put the new pump in. Thanks for the good karma on figuring it out!
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I’m trying to figure out a good way to test the fuel pump while it is out of the car. Logically, I would think that the pump would push fluids out one of the hoses when voltage is applied to the pump. My assumptions is that the new pump is good. I don’t understand why it would not send fluids out the hose when it is outside the vehicle and being powered while submerged in fluids. Any insight would be appreciated.
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I am trying to figure out a no start issue with my 2001 Boxster S. It began with intermittently not starting when it was warm. I suspected a fuel issue, so I replaced the filter. Immediately afterwards, it would start and run fine one day, but not the next. Finally, quit starting at all. I disconnected the tank line at the filter and jumped the relay to check fuel volume. No fuel came out. So I suspected the pump was bad. I removed the pump and applied power. The motor ran. I then placed it in a bucket of water, applied power, but nothing came out of the fuel lines. I ordered a new pump. Got it today, and tried the same test. Nothing comes out of the lines. I must not understand how this thing should operate. Can anyone give me a “clue”?
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Windows Stopped Working After New Battery
Ross1 replied to cbr786's topic in 986 Series (Boxster, Boxster S)
Do your windows not work at all, or do they just not automatically open and close? Two beeps when you try to lock the doors means that something is open. A typical item is the glove box in the center console. -
Thanks Loren!
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So my A/C fan is only working intermittently. I search the forums and noticed a correlation between the ignition switch and the A/C fan. Coincidentally, my fan started having this problem "after" I replaced a faulty ignition switch. The symptons are that when I start the car, the lights come on the A/C unit, but will fluctuate between dim and bright. Also, the little snowflake icon does not appear. After driving for a while, the snow flake will appear and the fan will start working. It will keep working until I stop the car. My durametric will throw the "31 Fresh air blower fault", but it doesn't seem like the actual fan is the problem. Has anybody had a similar problem? I would hate to replace the entire A/C unit, if that isn't the problem. Ross
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I’ve seen many topics about the Window Regulator for the 996/986. A lot of the topics deal with the window not lowering properly for the top, and also a grinding noise. The majority of the reasons for these symptoms are explained as a stretched/frayed cable. While this may be true in some cases, my window regulator exhibited these exact symptoms due to a broken plastic part. This seems to be a poor design decision to use this material. While for most people, I would recommend just replacing the regulator, it is possible to fix it. I thought that I would throw together this little explanation of what I did to repair my regulator. There are plenty of instructions out there on how to remove and replace the regulator from the door, so I will leave that up to you. The first thing you need to do is pull the cable off of one of the pulleys to get some slack. Next, you need to remove the metal plate from the main spool: If your regulator is broken like mine, then you will notice the blue plastic tube (yellow arrow) that is pushing against the spool. This is what makes the grinding noise and most likely is what will eventually fray the cable. This tube has broken off of the cable stay (red arrow). When the tube breaks loose, the cable sleeve slips through the stay and creates the slack that prevents the window from lowering properly. You will now need to slide the blue tube through the green bracket and the spring, so that it can mate back up with the blue cable stay. You now need to refasten the tube to the stay. I chose to use some spare plastic and a soldering iron. This worked very well, and I would say that it is now stronger than the original part. Your mileage may vary! You can now reassemble the regulator. Be careful to make sure that the cable inside the spool remains lined up in the proper groves. If they are misaligned, the cables will rub. I also wrapped a little electricians tape around the end of the cable sleeve, so it would fit snug in the stay. The original plastic wrap on the sleeve had been destroyed. The next step is the hardest of all. You need to replace the cable around the pulleys. This will require patience due to the fact that the cable is very tight and you need to compress the two springs on each side of the spool. I was able to do it with a couple screw drivers. Once the cable is in place, you should be able to freely slide the cable along the pulleys and the spool is noise free. You can now reinstall into the door. As I mentioned, this fix isn’t for everyone, but if you mess it up, you can always just buy a new one!!!
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Window Regulator Repair I’ve seen many topics about the Window Regulator for the 996/986. A lot of the topics deal with the window not lowering properly for the top, and also a grinding noise. The majority of the reasons for these symptoms are explained as a stretched/frayed cable. While this may be true in some cases, my window regulator exhibited these exact symptoms due to a broken plastic part. This seems to be a poor design decision to use this material. While for most people, I would recommend just replacing Author Ross1 Category Boxster (986) - Common Fixes and Repairs Submitted 10/31/2011 06:05 AM Updated 10/31/2011 06:06 AM
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Cool!
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Try injecting a little gear lube into the rubber boot of the lower bearing. Use a large syringe. You can usually pick one up at your local large animal veterinary supply store.
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So you told the dealer that your steering wheel creaked and they worked on the front end. It sounds like something is getting lost in the translation from the service manager and the mechanic. I would either take it back and give them a thorough and specific explanation of the problem, or take it to a different dealer.
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So, for several years I have been dealing with shifting problems on my boxster. Hard shifting from first to second, especially when it's cold. Sometimes it would grind. Sometimes it would pop out of gear. I wrote this off to the transmission syncros going bad and figure I would just deal with it until it got so bad I needed to replace the tranny. A couple of weeks ago, my water pump failed. While I had the car up in the air and torn apart, I inspected the engine mount because I knew it was a problem area. I could see cracks in the rubber, so I decided to replace it. I am now estatically happy at the results. I can't believe the difference in the shifting. It is like the tranny is brand new again. Crisp, clean shifting. I just thought I would share this, in case someone else out there is having the same shifting problem. :renntech:
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Thanks Loren!
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No luck on finding the part in the thermostat. Does anybody have a diagram of the coolant system, so I can determine the next place to look? Thanks!
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So my car suddenly started overheating, to the point that the warning light started flashing and the temperature guage quickly ran up to 250. Knowing this is not good, I shut down the engine. After it cooled down, I opened the coolant cap. I heard a gurgling noise and looked under the car to see coolant flowing out from the middle. So off to work I went on tearing things apart to find the problem. I determined the fluid was coming from the water pump, so I removed it. My problem is that a piece of the impeller was broken off and obviously is inside the cooling system and possibly blocking a radiator. Does anybody know the best way to flush out the broken piece? Thanks, Ross
