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Highlander
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Everything posted by Highlander
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There are only 52k miles on the car. I have not flushed the brakes/clutch since buying the car 6 months and 5k miles ago. It's on my todo list even though the brakes feel great and up until Monday morning, the clutch did too! Definitely feels bad. Like a damaged flywheel or pressure plate? I'm more thinking pressure plate as there is no vibration in the car when it is idling. There is also no noise that I would normally associate with a bad throwout bearing. I have laid the car up until I can get it to the shop Friday. Fortunately, I have an awesome indy close by. If they have to pull the gearbox off to take a look, I'll probably have them install a new clutch since most of the cost is in the labour! I'll post an update once they have had a look.
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First thing this morning, when I pushed on the clutch pedal, I felt what was like ridges on about the middle 1/2 of travel. Same when I release the clutch and I could also feel a little vibration. When I leave the car in neutral and activate the clutch, I can still feel the "ridges". When I just hold the clutch - again in neutral - at about mid travel, I can feel very light "fluttering". This is not a behaviour I have had in previous cars, or even heard of. Any clues as to what it might be? TIA, Graeme
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Thanks Jeff. I'll use dry Teflon spray.
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That's what I thought. My fabric still beads quite well, so nothing needed there yet I use Gummi Pflege to condition the rubber surfaces after cleaning with a mild detergent. Are there regular lubrication spots? A little lithium grease everywhere there is a pivot point or an obvious metal to metal contact point? Sparingly of course to avoid getting any on the canvas top.
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Is there any regular maintenance that can be done to keep the top mechanism in, um, er, "tip-top" condition? :jump: I'm doing a regular service on my '07 this weekend. I have the service checklist, but the only thing top related is: "Maintain and care for convertible top at 20,000 miles (30,000 km) or every 2 years" Since this is my first service since buying the car, I'm going to do everything I can to get a good baseline.
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Thanks guys. Since I don't have easy access to PIWIS, I'll just wait until I see issues.
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Thanks Loren. So the battery is not replaceable? You have to install new transmitters? Porsche has been reading Apple's design guidelines... :)
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I was reading the official Porsche Service sheet for my '07 Boxster S and it mentions "Check battery for the tire pressure monitoring system" What exactly does this entail? Thanks.
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"specialty Alignment" (?)
Highlander replied to mguzzipilot's topic in 987-1 Series (Boxster, Boxster S)
On a lot of cars, the only thing that can be adjusted is the toe. On Boxsters, front camber can also be adjusted. Maybe that's what they mean by "specialty alignment". It does take more time to adjust toe and camber - as camber adjustments effect toe, so it would not be unreasonable to charge more for a Boxster alignment over say, a Camry or even a 3-series BMW that has no factory camber adjustment. -
I finally got a chance to really examine the various straps and chords that ensure the top closes properly. what I found is there is a very wide strap with some elastic screwed to a bar down on the bowels of the mechanism. The elastic was not hardly elastic at all any more. I fixed it by pinching the elastic (to make it shorter), then zip tied it to keep it there. Voilà, the side wire now slides perfectly behind the trim, :thumbup:
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Thanks RFM, That's really good info. I'll go check it out some more when I get a chance and report back!
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Thanks for the suggestion. I finally got a chance to take a good look in there and as far as I can tell, everything is connected properly and nothing is broken, or visibly worn. I compared the left side that functions properly, to the right side, where the cable ends up on the outside of the trim. I can see no difference in how all of the cables, catches and elasticated bands are routed. Any more suggestions from anyone?
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I had this exact same problem on my old 986. Never did figure it out on that car. Anyone know what needs to be adjusted/fixed to get the cable to run behind the trim? Any and all help/suggestion welcome. TIA
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Yup, totally normal if it's an occasional occurrence. More than a little bit embarrassing if one of your neighbors sees you, but normal none the less :jump:
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The function of TPMS is to determine if your tire pressures have dropped. As you may remember from high school physics, the Combined Gas Law states that pressure increases with temperature. Since you don't want TPMS triggering a low pressure warning just because it happens to be -10 degrees outside, the system has to compensate for the temperature. It is this temperature compensated pressure that is displayed on the dash. I use the dash pressure as a reference. If it shows I'm off by 2psi, I use my gauge to see what pressure that reads and set the pressure to 2psi over that. Works a treat :thumbup:
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Have you received your lift? Does it work? I'm really interested to find out.
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Culled from this earlier discussion: http://www.renntech.org/forums/topic/8152-headlight-washer-plate-blew-off-in-high-wind-high-speed/?hl=headlight%20washer 1) Switch on your headlights 2) Get someone inside the car to activate the headlight washer (the pop-up headlight washer won't work unless you have the headlights on) 3) The little spray head under the (missing) chrome cover will pop up out of the hole in the headlight and washer fluid will start to spray onto the headlight 4) Grab the spray head and hold it (it has quite powerful spring loading that wants to pull it back into the headlight) 5) There is a little square plastic tab with a square hole in it on the base of the spray head that has to be flexed back slightly to get the spray head to disengage from some plastic teeth on the nozzle (look at the replacement chrome cover and spray head and you will see this tab). Once you have lifted this tab up slightly the spray head will slide right off the nozzle. Good Luck!
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Changing handbrake assembly
Highlander replied to Highlander's topic in 987-1 Series (Boxster, Boxster S)
Well that was easy! Used the fantastic instructions here to get the console off: http://www.renntech.org/forums/topic/41495-center-console-removalshort-shift-kit-install/ One electrical connector on the handbrake assembly and 4, 13mm nuts and the replacement was done! -
I don't really want to shell out $150 for a new interior door pull. Has anyone had luck touching up a minor scratch? It's an interesting paint color. Can't think what would blend well. TIA, Graeme
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Are these anything to be concerned about? There are no obvious symptoms driving or using the car, I just caught these when I hooked up my Durametric to clear an airbag light I set off myself when I installed my new handbrake assembly. '07 987 S, 48k miles. TIA, Graeme Porsche Access System - PAS Current Fault Codes 8004: Terminal 50 Rear Body Module Current Fault Codes 8050: Passenger compartment monitoring communication Seat Memory Current Fault Codes C102: CAN single-wire operation "comfort"
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Changing handbrake assembly
Highlander replied to Highlander's topic in 987-1 Series (Boxster, Boxster S)
Thanks! :thumbup: I'll update with pics once it's done. -
A bit late on the reply, but on my car, you select Aux. Press the "s" button" until Aux shows up on the display.
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I recently purchased the alcantara shift boot/knob and handbrake assembly from Suncoast. There are lot's of DIY's on the shift boot replacement and a few of removing the center console, but nothing I have been able to find on the actual handbrake assembly. Anyone have words of wisdom before I start ripping the interior apart? Anyone know if I have to remove the carpet? TIA, Graeme
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+1 on the 3M kit. Buy 2. I went through a whole kit on each lens on my Boxster. +1 on a good UV protectant too. 1 year after the refurb, my headlights started to yellow. Quickly got rid of the yellowing with ScratchX, but it would not have been necessary if I had taken the time to put a good UV protectant on them.
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This car is going to put me in the poor house
Highlander replied to Highlander's topic in 996 TT, 996 TT S, 996 GT2
Thanks! $126,750 + taxes probably needed a $135,000 check to purchase originally. The Aero Kit alone is a whopping $7,500! Ouch!!!! I'm going to go outside my comfort zone and look at the door handle myself. Based on diagrams and pictures of 996/986 handles on eBay, and the way the handle feels when I pull it, I think I might know what is broken. If I'm correct, it's an easy fix. I just have to get to it! I cleared the airbag light with my Durametric and it has not come back yet. I'm sure it will eventually but I'll deal with it then.
