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dcdrechsel

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About dcdrechsel

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    doylestown pa
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  • Present cars
    996

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  1. There are people who do rebuild them and do a professional job .I used Cabriolet Hydraulics in Florida and they work perfectly .In fact their website also covers removing and replacing .
  2. Don't think that kit will solve anything .Take a close look at the cylinders -the ends are machine crimped and must be drilled out to get at the real seals .Plus the hose ends need to be modified and resealed .It's not a easy diy project
  3. It probably needs to be recalibrated which would require the Durametric software ,the shop manual and an incredible amount of patience .It sounds like the sensor (lever) that moves with the top is out of synch or is not attached correctly .The shop manual pictures pictures will help -too hard (for me) to explain .
  4. Without a load (Valves) the sprocket would probably turn and look normal .Simple fix is to have the sprocket pinned .
  5. I am doing an LS engine swap and need to determine the characteristics of the Bosch Speed signal Output .I believe that it is an AC voltage Sine Wave but need to know pulses per mile . As an fyi the Vehicle Speed is needed for completing the emissions drive cycle test . Any and all input will be appreciated . Dave
  6. I bought rebuilt ones and they were prefilled.
  7. One more idea-is there a small blue wire on the alarm unit ?
  8. I don't think connection point 39 is important at this juncture .The blue wire is being powered by something -abs-instrument cluster or psm .If all three are disconnected -visibly making sure the blue wire is in the connector - and disconnected from the alternator for measurement there should be 0 volts .The next test would be a test for shorting -ohm meter-blue wire at alternator and ground with blue wire disconnected at instrument cluster-abs and psm . There is always a possibility that a previous owner modified something but unlikely .
  9. I do not know exactly where 39 is but you should be able to find the blue wire from the instrument cluster and trace it back to the connector .It is probably buried in the wiring harness which could require removing some pieces .Question-does the charge indicator lamp work ?Illuminated with key on and engine off and then not illuminated with engine running .
  10. Right hand drive - weldpoint 39 looks like it is behind instrument cluster .
  11. 39 is a splice point on the wiring diagram .The wire from the alternator branches (at 39) to the charge indicator light on dash and the abs/traction control .It is referred to as terminal 61 which is positive generator output .It appears that either the dash light or the abs unit is producing voltage it shouldn't .Unless the wire has somehow shorted to a switchable positive voltage .
  12. My first response was too brief .The wire I was referring to is the skinny one on the alternator .I am pretty sure that it is used as a input signal (terminal 61 ) for the abs/tcs and should be o when disconnected from the alternator with the ignition key off . Not sure any of this helps but it is not a regulator wire .
  13. If I have the right wire- that is connected at cp 39 to the psm-abs and dash light .Ashai's suggestion of scanning is a logical next step .
  14. Electronic copy of the Porsche Workshop manuals.You might try the Porsche Librarian member on this site to help track down a source . .
  15. The workshop manuals group 1 starting on page 294 covers ring placement and rod bolt torque steps .
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