jay04v6

Job Complete! Thanks so much to DB Joe and Ashai for all of the help on this issue. Ashai helped so much with the diagnosis and links and DB Joe with the step by step link with pics. If anyone needs help with this I will pay it forward as well. A couple of scary things happened. Stripped the bolt holding the door latch in (2 of them) even though I used the 8mm xzn driver. I still managed to get the stripped bolt out. local Porsche place helped me with 2 new bolts. Then while negotiating the old door latch assembly out, the door handle had to come out as well (somewhat unintentionally). Managed to piece it all back together. all trim back in place. No broken clips. no damage to the barrier and put back into position. Overall a satisfying weekend job. I will say, typical jobs like this the second one would be much faster...I don't believe this one would be. it's a time consuming step by step ensuring you don't hurt any trim etc along the way. it takes patience. Buy the XZN drive well before the job....not easy to find and you may need to order on line. Autozone had one for VW brake calipers and the kid knew what it was due to him having a Jetta...all else at 5 different locations I asked had never even heard of such a tool. PS- the name is 04V6 due to my original Cayenne. I know my 03 996 Targa is not a "V6". but not changing the name so I don't lose the past chains

That is beautiful. Thanks so much DBJoe!

HI all- is there a video that anyone may have handy on replacing the door lock assembly on the 996. It was the micro switch problem discussed on prior forums. I've purchased the door lock assembly and have the door panel off and I am in deep. what I cannot figure out how to do is pull out the old assembly and install the new assembly. I've searched many sites, (spent an hour searching this one) with no luck yet. Any help would be appreciated

thanks much save me hours of searching. I'm on it and time to take the door apart

Hi All- I am intrigued by the bicycle cable adjustor, but I am unsure if it applies to my issue. When I lift the latch the window drops. when I release the latch the window goes up and the door clunks and won't shut. This is inconsistent when this happens and I push open the door again, (now I'm seated on the inside of the car), everything works properly and door closes correctly. Do you think this is the slack the cable fix can handle or am I having a microswitch issue. Outside door microswitch?

thanks gents. I have the key but dont see a number on it. looking in the manual and paperwork now. think i am going to remove the locking nuts period....and will quit overtourquing the lugs as well...which should help. Air gun gets too tight before i put the torque wrench on it. I think i need a torque stick for the air gun will help.

Hello- any input appreciated. The security (Lock) Lug Bolt addapter for my 996 Targa cracked and broke. So now half the car with winter tires and half with summer. Has anyone had this problem? Remedy? Am i going to have to buy new lug bolts for the entire vehicle? My inde can get the existing lugs off (ruining them in the process). What to do? Can i just purchase the 4 locking lugs and new key independently. Pelican Parts see nothing in their parts list.

Hello all- so a year or so ago i posted a question to see if any of the 1800 Targa owners in the world recognized an ungodly amount of wind noise while the Targa roof is open. Very little response most likely due to the limited amount of owners. I am pleased to say that after a year of tinkering and searching, i have found the problem. The issue is the wind deflector not sealing cleanly up against the black (rubber?) stripping that is at the front of the opening attached to the roof of the car. It was interesting that all of this time, i was pulling down on the wind deflector to try to sense what the problem was, and all i had to do was push up on the deflector, hence pushing it to a tight seal against the black weather strip and voila...no noise and a perfectly quiet ride. amazing to finally be enjoying the targa top open roof driving with it sounding the way it was meant to. Now for the fix...i have no idea. the temporary fix was a rolled up piece of paper to push the deflector up tight against the weather strip...obviously temporary. I am going to attempt to remove the deflector (2 smally screws it appears) to see if i can get a better perspective. Maybe glue a felt weather strip to the bottom so it seals tight to the rubber strip...just thinking. Not sure if the black weather strip can be adjusted/replaced. When i learn more i will report back. Any insight would be greatly appreciated.

All it took was your confirmation and courage and voila! Thanks loren

Hi all. Attempting to run wiring from my fuse box up the a pillar across the windshield to my new blend mount passport mount at the rear view mirror. I cannot figure out how to loosen/remove the a pillar trim to run the wiring. The a pillar trim extends in one piece all the way to the back seat so I am stumped. Any insight would help. Thanks all

Warmth rolled in last weekend, so time to complete the back brakes. after the front , the back went real smooth and fast. Once the calipers and discs were off (loosen the ebrake adjustment to get the disc off), i decided not to do the ebrake pads. The new ebrake pads had less pad on them than the existing pads, so i will send them back. The vibration dampers, turned into a bit of an issue as they are 2 different sizes (30s and 28s), and instead recieved only 30s's...so time to reuse the 28s with the high temp glue mentioned above. Put it all back together, and adjusted the ebrake and all was good and complete. As far as the ebrake goes, simple process- take the armrest tray out and take the tension off the ebrake cable at the lever. Turn the adjustment in the hub until the wheel won't move, then back off five clicks, then back off 3 clicks then 2 more clicks. then tighten up the screw holding the cable at the lever, and you are done.

No- i did not document. quite frankly ii just squirted some of the dry lube on all of the rails and header (front of the car) and it seemed to help a lot. The gearing in the panel behind the rear seat is very simple. just take the covers off and slowly carefully pull the gear (s) out. wipe off the old grease (probably dry and brittle) and regrease- this does not affect any noises, it only speeds the roof opening closing. seems like it works less hard. Do not push the open close button while the cover is off, the gears go flying! The covers i am referring to have the hole for the manual open/close tool- see the owners man. Hope this helps-let me know how it goes.

i had very good success adjusting the e brake and the exact directions are in the Porsche 996 essential companion (book). 5 clicks this way, 4 clicks that way, back off 2 clicks etc...worked great if you have the book. i will attempt to take a pic of that page and upload the photo later today. although when i do the rears, all of my adjustments will be out the window. When i do the rears, i will need to completely loosen the e-brake to get the rear disc off, so then start all over (on top of the fact i will replace those pads too). thanks for the adhesive advice and specifics...i will most likely use on the rears and not buy new. Cheers

Interesting and succesful weekend doing my first ever brake job, on my 996 no less. Pelican parts brake kit fantastic, until one little interesting snag. I couldnt get the original brake pads out, until i removed them from the caliper, and found vibration dampers were attached. Why didn't new ones come in the "complete" kit? a call to Pelican came away with "not sure what you are talking about, "we don't offer vibration dampers". Much research on this site and others shows mixed reviews on whether they should be replaced or not (reused). Some feedback said you could reuse, but for the life of me, i could not find a brand or solution to reattach them to the pads. a trip to the dealer came back with more questions, "we don't stock although we replace every time" (then "how don't you stock??"). Listen to this, a call to a specialist up the road in Powell Ohio lead to this "you called at 10:25am on a Saturday, we can have them here by 11:30am" What? possibly the best service i have ever seen. "and when you get here, we have a 996 on the rack getting a brake job, you can go back and talk to the mechanic". this lead immediately to a succesful front brake job. the rears will take place when the weather breaks again. They look a little more complicated as i want to replace the e-brake pads too, but great directions on this forum and you tube will get me through. Thanks Auto Assets in Powell Ohio, you made my day! so the question of the day- what solution could i have used to reattach the vibration dampers to the new pads, or were new ones the right play afterall?

thanks gentlemen. i appreciate it. i can track from there, but without a name, was tough. looked all over in the ultimate manual and couldnt find an image looking like that.