hayaku

no reason.. top or bottom is personal preference. i since added a black trim piece to fill the gap also. good luck with the install!

speed wire is white with pink stripe. check your harness plug for it. if its not there, you will have to tap into it from the fuse kick panel by the driver's left foot.

Loren, Got any information on the scale levelling stands used in this pic? Seems to be exactly what i am looking for! Thanks and sorry for the threadjack...

No, they are not bose.

screen looks fine in full sunlight with the top down. You can adjust the screen tilt 6 postions, contrast and brightness also... all adjustments are very quick and easy to do. the picture above has 2 500 watt halogens shining on it to give me more light while i was doing the work at night. The halogen lamp was sitting on the convertible top shining light between the two rollbar hoops (remove the plastic windscreen or it will get melted). that also kept me warm in the chilly garage.

yes they should be. The GAL will be part of your harness behind the radio. Its the pink/gray wire. The reverse wire is under the driver's seat. Good luck with the install

Oh I understand what you are asking now... the BOSE system uses a MOST fiber optic cable. So the answer is no.... you can't splice in rca plugs into a fiber optic cable. The kenwood headunit does have a fiber optic output, but I don't know if its able to talk to the alarm unit on the MOST bus.

why not? all i did was tapped the line-in wires to the amp with rca plugs. i have the HAES 4x40 amp. the C1 yellow plug is where the stock headunit has its pre-out line level outputs to the amplifier. not much to an amplifier is there? power, remote power on/off, ground, line inputs, speaker outputs...

more pics

more pics

Step 13. Finish connections turn the key off remove the battery again drill the final mounting holes for the nav unit in the front turnk and mount it with the supplied hardware. disconnect all headunit cables and remove the headunit Reinstall the main trim piece with the fitted headunit bracket. Screw in the 4 torx screws hand tight. Reinstall the alarm flasher plate on the dash using the torx socket to finger tight. Reinstall the alarm flasher cover plate over the flasher light and gps antenna Reintall the side trim pieces and make the plug connects by color coded plugs. Reinstall the seat bolts and torque to 48 lb-ft Reinstall the rail covers over the front seat bolts On the main trim piece, you will notice there is a metal tab on the side where a single wire was connected to. This is the radio alarm wire and it expects a ground signal to the chassis. You can wire this up to the black ground wires as a quick fix (what i did) or you can run a wire from a ground point to the chassis of the headunit (like the original was) Finish off our wire connections with clean crimps, wire ties, electrical vinyl tape, etc. Reconnect all plugs again. Slide the headunit into the mounting bracket making sure not to pinch/crush any wires behind it. I pull the wires in the back of the unit as I push the head unit in. Put on the headunit trim piece. If you are so inclined, you can fill the small gap at either the top or bottom of the headunit with plastic for the finished look. Step 14. Calibration of GPS Start the car, and reposition the car to your address. Drive for about 6 miles at 25 mph or faster to get the GPS unit to calibrate your speed, heading, tire speed. step 15. All done. See PICs

Step 9. Connect Headunit harness to factory harness Plug in the Scosche VW10B harness adapter to the factory black connector that went into the original head unit. You are only using the lower set of wires. The upper set of wires are for direct connect speakers. Since we are re-using the the factory amp, we disregard the top plug connect and the top set of speaker wires. *** Constant Battery Power and Switched Power are reversed. Connect all black wires together (2 from the Headunit and 1 from the Nav to the 1 from the scosche adapter) for ground Connect all yellow wires from the kenwood equipment (2 from headunit, 1 from nav) to the Red Scoshe adapter wire for constant power Connect all red wires from the Kenwood nav and headunit to the yellow Scoshe adapter wire for switched power Connect all green wires (2 - 1 from headunit and 1 from nav) to parking switch +++ I connected this to the black set of wires so I have full time nav and video functions instead of it being disabled by speed. Connect Scoshe VWAB antenna adapter to factory antenna plug Connect the plug wire from the headunit harness to the misc wire you connected to C1, Pin 6's wire for remote amp on/off signal. Connect the white wire (speed)from the nav harness to the brown wire on the scoshe adapter (the one that connects to the gray/pink wire - pin 1 of the original black plug) Connect all orange wires (1 from headunit, 1 from nav) to the orange scoshe adapter wire for illumination control Step 10. Connect Nav Unit in front trunk Screw in the mounting brackets on the side of the nav unit using supplied hardware Connect the wire harness plug to the nav unit Connect the brown IFC cable to the nav unit Connect the GPS antenna to the nav unit Step 11. Connect Headunit to harness Connect the small wire harness to the headunit Connect the large wire harness to the headunit Connect the brown IFC cable to the headunit Connect the RCA preout cables you made to the headunit's rca female preouts Connect the antenna to the headunit Step 12. Test unit Make sure all connections are made and nothing is left exposed. Put the driver's seat back in the car and plug in the seat Install the battery and connect ground first then positive terminals Pull down the door on the nav unit and insert the correct dvd disc Insert the key and turn to the on position Turn the head unit on and test functions If all is good, you have sound and can control the nav on the touch screen as expected.

Step 7. Run wires from Nav in front trunk to console Feed the nav wire harness and brown IFC cable through the carpet at the 2nd plug run the wire harness and cable along the strut brace arm, behind the hoses, behind the battery tray and into the 1st plug into the cabin Get inside the car, under the dash and pull the rest of the wires and cable through Feed the rest of the cables through the center console Bundle what excess you have to make it nice and neat and take up less room with zip ties Step 8. Connect Reverse Wire Under driver's seat Fish the pink reverse wire from the nav harness under the center tunnel's carpet Cut the tape on the wire harness for the control unit under the seat Find the Black wire with the blue strip that is not connected to anything. Mine was found bundled in with the brown grounding wires, taped really good. Connect the pink reverse wire to the Reverse wire (black wire with blue strip) See pic

Step 6. Firewall Passthrough plug setup Cut an "X" with a utility knife into the the 2 rubber plugs: 1st plug from behind the battery 2nd plug from behind where the factory cd changer would mount Cut an "X" into the carpet where the 2nd plug is at See Pic

Step 5. Tap in RCA male plugs to the C1 plugs Find the Yellow C1 plug. Strip back about 3mm of each of those wires Cut your RCA Stereo cable about 6 inches from the both sides. Strip back about 1 inch of wire to expose the grounding strands surrounding a sleeved red and white wire in each. Seperate the grounding strands and twist it into 1 single wire. Strip the inside wire back about 1/2 inch. You now have a positive and negative lead to an RCA male cable Solder the RCA's 4 negative grounding strands all into one wire and into the stripped section of pin 5's wire. Tape that up with the electrical vinyl tape. Solder the positve leads of the RCA cables into the corresponding Pin. Solder the misc wire to the Pin 6's stripped wire part for the amp remote on/off signal. Pin 6 - The Black/Red wire is the ampifiler remote signal to turn on/off the amplifier Pin 5 - The speaker ground wire. This is the one that 4 wires are merged into one. Pin 1 - Rear Left Pin 2 - Front Left Pin 3 - Rear Right Pin 4 - Front Right Now your have RCA connectors spliced into your C1 plug See Pic

...

Step 2. Remove the headunit and interior dash trim Insert the Becker headunit keys into the headunit and pull the unit out. Disconnect the black power harness plug, yellow C1 preamp out plug and the antenna (that should be all the plugs) Obviously if you have the blue aux in or the CD changer plugs, disconnect them as well. They however, are now useless. Pry off the 2 side trim pieces where the control buttons are. They just pop off. Disconnect the plugs on the back. Don't worry about memorizing where each go, they are color coded. Pry off the cover plate for the cup holders or cd holder shelf. Unscrew the 4 screws and remove the storage unit. Unscrew the 4 torx T-15 screws that hold the main trim piece in. Pull the main trim piece out. See Pic Take a sharp utility knife or a dremel and cut the plastic divider shelf out of the center. Remove the screw holes for storage unit. I just used a dremel to cut those holes out. Fit the Kenwood mounting bracket frame into the main trim piece. Step 3. Remove the alarm flasher cover on the dash Using the flat screw driver, slowly and carefully pry the alarm flasher cover off. It snaps in on the 2 front side tabs. Using the T-25 Socket, remove the 2 screws that hold the plate. Be careful not to drop the screws in the a/c/heater air vents. The GPS antenna will sit on the metal plate with its magnetic back Using the electric drill and a small bit, drill a hole for the GPS antenna's wire to fit in the plastic frame Or use a dremel if you have it. I just used a drill. Put the GPS antenna on the plate and feed the antenna wire through the plate frame and down behind the console. Continue to feed that antenna wire behind the dash and out through the firewall plug 1. RUn the wire behind the battery tray, behind the hoses, along the strut brace arm and out plug 2 into the carpeted area. Step 4. Remove the driver's seat Slide the seat all the way forward and tilt the back forward unbolt the 2 E-12 Torx bolts. Using the 3/8" extension on the wrench makes it easier to work in that narrow space. Slide the seat all the way back and put the seat back into normal position Using a flat screw driver, pry the tab on the rail cover up a little release its lock then slide the rail covers forward and off. Unbolt the 2 E-12 Torx bolts in the front Slowly slide the seat to the middle and fold the seat back forward Slowly lift the seat up and face it to the passenger seat and rest it tilting down over the center console Disconnect the plug from the controller unit under the seat to the seat itself Slowly lift the seat and remove the seat from the car

First of all, many thanks to the extremely knowledgeable contributers to this forum for sharing their knowledge of how to remove parts, install parts, wiring diagrams, and in general great people. Without the shared knowledge in posts here, this project would've taken much much longer, lots more swear words and more cuts and scrapes on my hands... What was done: Install a Kenwood DDX-7015 2 Din headunit and a Kenwood DV-4100 Nav computer into an 01 Boxster S using the factory amp, wiring, and speakers. I'm now writing this from memory so I may be off with torx sizes or a few things... which can be edited back in. DIY sources from this site: - Seat Bolt torque - CDC3 changer intall for the firewall pass through to route wires from the front trunk to the console - Traffic Pro Install PDF for the alarm flasher removal to install the GPS antenna - Reverse wire under the driver's seat (black wire with blue strip going nowhere) - Speed wire in the GAL position on the radio harness (gray/pink wire) Needed tools and supplies - Scosche VW10B radio connector wiring harness adapter You will only use the lower connectors. The top plug is for direct speaker connection. The car came with a factory amplifier so there was no direct speaker connections, only a pre-out to the amplifier. ~$15 at GoodGuys store - Scosche VWAB antenna adapter Porsche has a very short antanna connector, cap style. The Kenwood, or any other headunit will use a longer plug to accept the antenna. ~$10 at GoodGuys store - RCA male to male stereo cable, 6 foot lenght was the shortest I could find. ~$3.00 at pratically any store - Becker/HK radio removal keys - T-25 Torx screw driver - T-15 Torx screw driver - T-25 Torx socket - Wire clipper/Stripper - Assorted wire connectors - Solder and Soldering Pen/Gun - sharp utility knife - scissors - vinyl electric tape - zip ties - A small spool of 14 to 18 gauge wire for misc connections - E12 torx socket - 12" 3/8 socket extension - 3/8" socket wrench - 3/8" torque wrench - flat blade screw driver - 13mm socket - 10mm wrench - Electric Drill and assortment of metal bits Step 1. Removing battery Open the front trunk lid Twist the 2 pin locks on the battery cover to remove the cover Unscrew the 2 T-25 torx screws on the side panel covers to remove the covers Use the 10mm wrench to remove the ground wire from the batter (driver's side) Then remove the positive wire (passenger side) Pull out the over-flow hose the top of battery Unbolt the 13mm battery hold down clamp and remove The battery is now free and can be lifted out of the car You can see the rubber plug for the firewall pass through now See Pic

tool pants, you were right! thanks for the advise of going back in and getting rid of all that tape! the reverse wire was hidden in the bundle of grounding wire really good... everything works as normal now! thanks again

i guess i can go back and remove the seat again, but there was nothing else under the carpet.. perhaps it's bundled in the tape further back.. nothing was separated from the main branch or smaller branches that would indicate its there... the blue cap is for a bunch of grounding wires. they go with the bunch of brown wires that bolt to the grounding point about 4 inches away from the control unit to the floor pan. thanks

Pic of wiring harness under the seat... my black/blue is connected to the controller under the seat. Futher test shows this is not the Reverse Wire for an 01 Boxster S. Anyone with a diagram? Or do I have to run a wire all the way back to the reverse lights? TIA

According to this thread, the reverse wire is found under the driver seat and is a black wire with a blue strip that is not connected to anything. http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?a...st=0#entry13886 According to this other thread, the reverse wire is found under the driver seat and is a spotweld to a bunch of other wires (all reverse wires). http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?showtopic=747 However, in my 01 Boxster S, there is no black wire with a blue strip, only a blue wire with a black strip and it is connected to the control unit under the seat. It is not open ended, not tied to any other wire, its just single wire that terminates inside the plug. This did not give me a revese signal. Does anyone have a reverse wire source for a 01 boxster s? I'm doing the Kenwood 2 Din nav unit install. I have a bunch of pics to help the next person do this themselves. TIA

Nevermind. I just confirmed it. The Yellow C1 plug is the pre-out to the factory amp. The 4 channel amp does not have fade. The diagram posted of the trafficpro's print out is also a little off. The subwoofer positive lead is not a subwoofer lead (pin 6 in C1). This is the remote amp connector to turn the amp on and off. I've spliced the preout of the Kenwood 2Din headunit to the C1 plug for a possible return to factory radio (I would also need to get a new trim piece since I've cut mine to make the 2Din unit fit).

That plug works for power. Does anyone have a plug that works for speakers? My 01 Boxster S originally came with the CDR220 and HAES 4x40 amp. I'm assuming the line out leads come out of the Yellow Connector to the amp? Does anyone have a wiring diagram for the speakers? I'm trying to upgrade to the Kenwood 2DIN nav unit. TIA

thanks!!!!! fortunately i went back and figured it out through frustration... i should've relaxed for a bit and waited for this post.