Dus10R

Curious to hear your thoughts after you drive it; been thinking about doing this mod myself.

It's plugged in for sure. When I push the butterfly in, it does close smoothly, but I noticed that it doesn't go completely vertical and there is a small opening between the plate and the sidewall. Is there something I else I needed to do after I put everything back in beside the reset/adaptation? Just find it odd that it's throwing all of these codes after I cleaned it and put it back together, leads me to believe it was something I did and not just sensors going haywire.

Loren, You listed fault P1505, is that the same as P1504?

How much of a gap should there be between the butterfly plate and the walls of the throttle body? And should the plate when its closed be completely up and down or is it at a slight angle? I noticed that the plate never completely closes / forms a tight seal with the wall. What is the "Throttle Adjusting Unit?" Could my manually opening the butterfly plate hurt the throttle body? The cars is a '04 Turbo

Car has been idling erratic upon start-up (no CEL's) for awhile. So after reading quite a few old posts I decided to clean my MAF and the throttle body. The MAF looked fine but I cleaned it anyway. The throttle body was pretty guncky on the back side so I cleaned it, removed the butterfly plate and cleaned it really good all around the edges and then I reinstalled everything. I also used the MAF sensor cleaner on the Bosch sensor inside of the "Y" pipe (not sure what the sensor is) I reset the ECU via turning on the ignition and letting it sit till I heard the clicks in the enginge compartment, then I turned it off, and started it. First thing it did is idle way up to about 2500 and then idle way down and die. I restarted it, and it did the same thing, so I blipped the throttle to keep it running. So I took it for a drive and it drove fine. I did notice that the idle was a little high at stops with the A/C off, so I turnned off the A/C and the idle went up even higher. Drove on a little bit more and then it threw a CEL. But it drove fine and at stops it was idling high but very consistant. So I stopped at a store and went inside, came out a few minutes later and the car wouldn't start. I reset it again and then it would start but it did the rev to 2500 and then way down and died. So I got it home and checked the codes: DTC Count = 3 Fault Number:P1109 Description:Porsche fault code 594 - Input variables charge Repair Infomation:measurement DTC Count = 3 Fault Number:P1504 Description:Porsche fault code 410 - DVE fault: necessary intake air Repair Infomation:positon DTC Count = 3 Fault Number:P0507 Description:Porsche fault code 32 - Idle control at stop Any clues? my wife says every time I fiddle with someting it's worse after I mess with it, Im starting to believe her. Also: what is the correct part number for the MAF? I've done numerous searches and I've seen two to three different part numbers. I want whatever is the newest version that doesn't require the dealer to reprogram the ECU. Any ideas would be appreciated.

Stock intake but using a K&N which potentialy could have been over oiled. So I plan on cleaning the MAF and the throttle-body and then will take it from there. It just seems to me that I read about a bunch of MAF issues with the stock Bosch units and the tuners are switching to the Hitachi types which they claim are more robust. So these are not plug and play, they don't output a digital signal like the Bosch units do?

I see that some tuners are switching over to a Hitachi MAF sensor with thier tuning kits, are these better than the Bosch OEM units? I see where you can even buy a special tube that allows the Hitachi unit to fit "The Mode air intake tube is designed for the Prosche 996TT's needing to run a Hitachi Mass Air Flow Sensor. An opening has been made in the intake tube that allows the fitment of the Hitachi MAF sensor." I've been having problems upon just starting the engine, especially on hot days, with the idle jumping up and down and sometime it will die. This only happens right when you start it and let it idle for a bit; after it's warmed up or driven a bit it doesn't do it. I checked for codes and there are none, except one time, right when I started it I got a 115 Hot film MAF sensor code, which has led me to believe that the MAF may be the cause of my idling issue. Anybody else use the Hitachi unit?

Hmmm...28Psi... I use a Tire Pyrometer to adjust tire pressures via the temperatures that run across the face of each tire (outside, middle , inside) Last year I noticed that running OE Reccomended pressures caused the middle tire temps to be a lot higher than the avg of the outside and inside temps, which means to much air. I got the fronts down to 28psi which was the lowest pressure I felt safe running and the middle temps where still slightly higher (10 degrees) than the outside and inside temps. The rear I lowered to 36psi and the middle and inside temps were about the same (negative camber) with the center being slightly higher in some runs. But the fronts gave me pause. According to the tire temps they needed to come down in pressure even more but I just wasn't sure how low I could run them without risking the tire comming off of the wheels.

I want to be able to change Tunes without having to flash the ECU every time. If I normally run 91 octane, but I go and fill up with 93 or 100, I want to be able to change to that tune without having to plug some module into the OBDII port every time and run through a flash sequence. APR is the only company that I've found that offers that ability. But like I said earlier, if someone knows of another tuner that has the same feature I'm interested to know who they are.

Here's a cool little hidden easter egg that hasn't been well publicized. This is per Porsche's own engineers. If you lift up on the E-Brake handle just 1 click, it won't engage the E-Brake but it does disconnect the front drive.

PSM has not much to do with the VC. PSM applies a break at any one corner to help reign in oversteer and is meant for dry roads not snow. The owners manual even says to turn it off when driving in snow. However, it will work in snow at slower speeds and will help correct the car from getting too squirelly, but it's operation is pretty evasive and you feel it constantly trying to correct. I tell my wife to keep it on when she's driving it because it will help correct some tail out issues she's not prepped to correct on her own. But with the system turned off, you need to have very quick reactions to what the car is doing. If it starts to slide / oversteer you need to correct for it fast or it will get beyond correctional control and will spin. So no, it's not as confidence inspiring as the Audi quatro system in snow, but it's really not meant to be either. Great thank you! Sounds like I will have to just see for myself. Maybe I should consider a used STI as a replacement for the Audi. Thanks, Justin Funny you mention the STi, I recently owned both a 2005 STi and a 2005 Evo VIII MR (bought both new). Long story short, the EVO was a better built car. I'll give a run down... STi: Cooler dash instruments, better stereo, more torque due to larger displacment, a hair better in snow. Evo: Better Seats, Better Transmission, faster, better handling, more tuner friendly, more reliable (never in shop except for tune-ups; STi was in shop multiple times for squeaky struts, dash malfunctions, Exhaust rattles, leaky door seals) more solid built (STi rattled and squeaked like a John Deere tractor and water leaked in at car washes) Compared to an Audi, they're both loud on the inside due to minimal sound deadening materials to save weight. Both fun cars... but after selling them both I still miss my EVO. This is no joke, my Evo was more stable at 170mph than my Porsche TT (Evo makes more downforce) (STi won't due 170mph, limiter kicks in at 155mph.) So if you drive in a lot of snow and that's your priority, then the STi is slightly better. The Evo does great in snow too but it's AWD system is more automatic whereas the STi lets you actually lock the torque split at 50/50. But when the roads dry out, the EVO is miles ahead.

Why was the APR Tuner post locked? I have zilch to do with that company, I'm not employed or paid in any fashion and they have no idea who I am. The post wasn't angry or argumentative and was meant to help someone that lives nearby to APR get a free tune. There was an ongoing discussion as to why someone might donate their car to a company for testing when there are multiple tried and true tuners already existing; but it was not a harmful post by any stretch of the imagination. I was lobbying for APR only because in my humble opinion they offer a product that has features no other tuner has. If any other tuner in existance already has a tune for a 996 Turbo X50 in which you can change maps on the fly via the dash controls would someone please let me know who they are so I can check it out.

APR isn't a new company, and they're def. not a fly by night tuner. One of the most popular tuners for our Turbo's is UMW, which if you look up their address is a residential home. Not saying they're not good and that the guy doesn't know what he's doing, but even he had to start somewhere. APR is a very well established engineering firm and is no joke in the word of aftermarket tuning. Ask any Audi enthusiast what tuners they lust after and they're going to say HPA and APR. Does this look like the headquarters for a company that's practicing?

PSM has not much to do with the VC. PSM applies a break at any one corner to help reign in oversteer and is meant for dry roads not snow. The owners manual even says to turn it off when driving in snow. However, it will work in snow at slower speeds and will help correct the car from getting too squirelly, but it's operation is pretty evasive and you feel it constantly trying to correct. I tell my wife to keep it on when she's driving it because it will help correct some tail out issues she's not prepped to correct on her own. But with the system turned off, you need to have very quick reactions to what the car is doing. If it starts to slide / oversteer you need to correct for it fast or it will get beyond correctional control and will spin. So no, it's not as confidence inspiring as the Audi quatro system in snow, but it's really not meant to be either.

But then again, if nobody is interested, come a few months down the road I might just take some vacation time and drive down there and let them use my car. It would save me about $2K in the long run. I really have no affiliation with these guys at all, they just told me that they need an X50 car so that they can get the tune correct and then they'll have an option for me. Any technical questions you may have you'll have to ask them directly via thier contact info.

No I'm not trying to sell it. I just really like their product and they don't have an option for a X50 Turbo. So if someone close to them lets them use their car they'll get the hardware and tune for free and I'll get to pay full price once they offer it for X50 cars.

From the development process to the technical features, no other tuner offers the same innovation and refinement that you'll get from APR. Many months have been spent developing the best chip available for the 996 Twin Turbo. We go far beyond the traditional steps of just "raising the boost" and "advancing the timing". Extra steps must be taken. Typical data logging software used by most tuners is capable of capturing 4 variables at 3 samples per second. APR's proprietary data acquisition software captures as many as 30 variables at around 22Hz. That's an incredible 55 times more data gathered per second. "...extra steps other tuners can't take." To dramatically increase power and maintain factory drivability there are many factors to be considered. One of note is the internal boost-controller, which requests boost according to load measured by the ECU. Inconsistencies and "surging" are things you will not feel in APR software because we properly match the cars actual boost produced with the load-based requested boost from the ECU. This is where "55 times more data" goes from intangible numbers to a smoothness you can feel. It helps duplicate the characteristics normally found only from the factory. Such precise matching you will not find in other software. These are extra steps other tuners can't take.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------- I've been trying for months to get APR to create their chip for the X50. They just sent me an e-mail that said they would create one but they need someone to loan them an X50 Turbo so that they can create it correctly. Whomever donates their car will get the hardware and software for free. If I lived anywhere even remotely close I'd jump on this in a heartbeat. Their ECU is probably one of the slickest I've seen. It allows you to swap programs via the cruise control function in your car. You can change between "stock," "chipped- 91 or 93," "Race-100," "Valet," "Security Lockout," it even has fault code erase and a throttle body alignment function. APR EMCS Functionality APR Tuned 997 Turbo Video If anyone near to APR is interested please contact: Chris Gigon Sales Representative/Financing Manager APR, LLC. Phone: (800)680-7921 4800 US Hwy. 280 W. Tech: (334)502-5181 Opelika, AL 36801 Fax: (334)502-5180

It's probably leather, but I just wanted to make sure.. Funny thing... I have a bottle of Maguires Vinyl and Rubber protectant and the picture on the outside of the bottle is of a 996 turbo dash! So it made me question my original thought that it was a leather dash.

Not sure what material the dash is made of, is it leather or pleather? Same with the door pocket lids? I want to clean and preserve them just not sure what they're made of.

How bad is it? Is it a bad "loose power" hesitation or is it a quick hic-up type? You could be right there at the rpm range where the wastegate is opening and closing which will cause a very slight stutter.

I think you are spot on... It only happens when going down hill on a fairly steep road, and the PSM light is coming on, I just didn't notice it before. Still doesn't give me any warm and fuzzies... it throws the balance off pretty bad.

Not to go too OT, but I thought that it was illegal in CA to have anything attached to your windshield (radar detector, GPS, Sat radio, etc.) Any mention of that by the officer? Ed I don't think they have a law like that; my truck drivers run a device that's issued by the state called Quick Pass and they recommend mounting it to the windshield.

Are you running different brands of tires on front/rear? What you are describing has happened to me since I made the mistake of mixing tire brands. My next pair will depend on whether the front or rear go first. My guess is the rears (RE050's) will go first even tho they are a better wearing tire than the PZero's on the front, which are better traction tires. At that point I'll put on a full set of som'thin. I'm interested in how your situation resolves. Good luck. I'm running Michelin Pilot sport Rib's front and back. Wow...kind of disheartening. I've been told by others on other forums that this is probably normal. That bites! Not real confidence inspiring to be driving your car through a bumpy corner and the car automatically applies a brake to one wheel which unbalances the car. PASS: Porsche Anti-Stability System. Seems like that would be a very big glitch which could open Porsche up to potential law suits if there happened to be an accident caused by their Stability Management program.

Are you running different brands of tires on front/rear? What you are describing has happened to me since I made the mistake of mixing tire brands. My next pair will depend on whether the front or rear go first. My guess is the rears (RE050's) will go first even tho they are a better wearing tire than the PZero's on the front, which are better traction tires. At that point I'll put on a full set of som'thin. I'm interested in how your situation resolves. Good luck. I'm running Michelin Pilot sport Rib's front and back.