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MarkC

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About MarkC

  • Birthday 05/02/1969

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  • From
    Mission Viejo, CA, USA
  • Porsche Club
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  • Present cars
    2000 996 Cab

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  1. MarkC
    I replaced inner/outer 4 weeks ago (including tuning forks and coffin arms) on my 2000 C2. I bought the offset oetiker clamp tool for the boot clamps (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0080J1200/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&th=1; Lisle 30600) from Amazon, but borrowed the tie rod tool (and I tend to buy the tools as well - own compressor, impact, etc... from previous jobs). Rick Hutton You Tube shows the EverTough brand (from O'Reillys) works, while I used the OEMTools brand version (from Autozone). Realize your location creates other challenges. I have a 1995 Honda Del Sol to do in a few weeks and I'm still borrowing this particular product. One thing I did differently from the videos, was put the rubber band around the steering rack before putting the inner tie rod on - think it make the task simpler. Oher than that I followed Rick and Mike from FCPEuro. Good Luck, Mark
  2. blee15

    Mark,

     

    can you repost the "alternator start motor cable replacement" tutorial? when I click on the PDF it no longer opens. Greatly appreciate it!

     

    Thanks! 

  3. MarkC
    OK found it (-06 for me). For others looking, to add to Mike's comment the # is on the top of the unit towards the back (presume my earlier post is a serial #). I could not get a phone in there to see anything beyond the 996-347 digits (even a small old iPhone 4). In the end used a flexible extendible mirror with a couple of Harbor Freight flashlights. I'm on a pair of stands only 14" up. Probably easier if you have a lift (just getting the angles and positioning. Thx Mark
  4. MarkC
    Is the part # a sticker or an embossed/etched #? I can see a # but it does not look like a Porsche part. Mine shows "149G212A412". The steering box shows TRW embossed on it, but that # is the only thing i can see through a small gap between the chassis brace and the front wheel well. Am I looking in the wrong place - took 5 videos but cannot see anything else. thx Mark
  5. MarkC
    UK members, regarding MOT. Do the 986 lights on a 996 pass the MOT? Looking to bring my LHD 996 over and I see used 986 lights considerably cheaper than 996. Plus will the MOT accept the earlier 'orange' front lights, or do the units have to be the same year as originally fitted? Thx Mark
  6. MarkC
    Similar problem with my MY2000. First key failed last summer, 2nd key in December. Both still started the car and manually locked/unlocked. Fob lights flash once, no longer flicker even after battery replacement and polarity swapping. Finally bought a new fob from PorscheParts.US for $160 delivered and found local indy to program for $68. Probably should have bought 2 keys at the same time as programming appears to be a flat fee with most the places I talked to.
  7. MarkC
    The dash display gauge when the engine is hot now drops to about 13.7v volts with lights, heater, stereo, indicator & wipers on, but my gauge under reads, so will really be closer to 14v. Never drops to where it was before. The picture above is with the engine hot, at night with the lights and heater on. Previously when the engine was cold the gauge displayed 13.5v, but when warm would drop to hover around 12v. I had been driving with the rear wing up for several months to keep the cables cooler. For diagnostics follow Ahsai's post, #9 in this thread. The wire I changed shows up in test #3 (between A & J in his diagram). http://www.renntech.org/forums/topic/44471-voltage-regulator-affected-by-heat-hence-low-voltage/#entry240001 To complete the testing follow Ahsai's post, #15 in this thread. There is no danger of causing damage as we are only testing loss due to the cables, there is little or no current plus the rear of the alternator is all plastic except for the bolt the starter cable is attached to so there is nothing to 'catch' on. You can stab around with the wire without worry. I'd still suggest finding some kind of inspection mirror (ladies make up mirror also works). http://www.renntech.org/forums/topic/44652-alternator-terminal-b-access/ Hope this helps. Mark
  8. MarkC
    Alternator Starter Motor Cable Replacement Attached is a detailed description with photos and You Tube video link to replace the dreaded Y-cable that runs between the alternator, starter motor and rear jump start post. Thanks Mark How to remove Alternator-Starter Cable.pdf How to remove Alternator-Starter Cable.pdf Author MarkC Category Carrera (996) - Common Fixes and Repairs Submitted 11/26/2013 07:12 PM Updated 03/17/2017 05:14 AM
  9. MarkC
    Attached is a detailed description with photos and You Tube video link to replace the dreaded Y-cable that runs between the alternator, starter motor and rear jump start post. Thanks Mark How to remove Alternator-Starter Cable.pdf How to remove Alternator-Starter Cable.pdf
  10. MarkC
    Yes thank you (photo is a snap shot with lights running). Took 20 minutes Friday night to wiggle the alternator back in, but then found a snapped vacuum line - the one that runs to the far side of the engine, so $4 for a rubber 2" x 1/4" vacuum link later + 20 minutes Saturday morning to re-assemble the intake plenum, throttle body and air intake and we're back in business. I had a flutter when the car first started because it wouldn't rev, no response from throttle. Obviously I hadn't completely connected the wire for the throttle body, plus had some idle hunting when warm (750-800 rpm) but there were still loose air connections. I still have a slight idle flutter, 4 seconds at 750rpm then a little rise to maybe 775 and then back down to 750. So may have too take another look at those universal clips around the intake plenum. I actually think this job can be done now, without the alternator being removed and in under 2 hours start to finish (air box, throttle body, intake plenum, wire off rear of alternator, wire off starter, bolts off compressor, loosen power steering reservoir, pull out wire. Hindsight is always 20/20. If anyone in Southern California needs help on this one, just PM me, I may be able to come round to help. Will try to add a complete write up later this week - shame I can't add the video to show the rear AC Compressor bolt, but will probably just dump to You-Tube and link to it. Thanks Mark
  11. MarkC
    Returning from a long business trip I started to put everything back together today. Right now I'm going through fiddling with the alternator reinstall. I remember how tricky that was last time. Updates: The first image shows how to locate the rear bolt on the AC Compressor. I've removed my wedding ring and slid the solid freon line between my 3rd and 4th fingers (counting thumb as #1) highlighted by the yellow hand drawn lines. By doing so you should be able to touch the head of the bolt. The second image is another shot from beteen the intake runners. The 3rd shot shows how I'm holding my phone in movie mode with my left hand (power lead because my battery is nearly dead) and have my fingers between the solid AC line, while my right hand is holding the top of the bolt. I can see from the phone/camera exactly where the bolt is and my left hand fingers can nudge it into place. The next 2 pictures just show the camera/phone location clearer. The last picture shows the rear bolt angle the same as the front 2 as the extension bar lies between the intake runners. For a video see the follow up post. I ended up repeating the whole procedure due to dropping the temperature sensor rubber grommet behind the AC Compressor during re-install. I can confirm the AC Compressor can be removed in 5 minutes and installed in about 7. Mark
  12. MarkC
    Solved. Here is the offending cable out of the car, waiting for the new part arrival. For me the bolt on the rear of the compressor has to come out (who knows how I'm going to get it back in), see picture - there's a bracket that connects the bolt (red circle) to one of the refrigerant lines that is just not reachable. On the refrigerant side It has a 10mm bolt on one side and a 5.5 female hex on the other (yellow circle), but neither location is accessible unless you have 5 year old's hands. Mark
  13. MarkC
    So I've rotated the reservoir, undone all 3 bolts (removed the front 2 to ensure they aren't catching), but still can't remove the AC Compressor. I can rotate L-R, and pull forward 1/4" and lift the front. Think the rear bolt is catching and not clearing the threads. One of the AC lines catches on the inlet, but don't think that's the problem. Any ideas? Mark
  14. MarkC
    The connection at the starter was the problem, heavily corroded - see first 2 images below. My car spent 3 years in Boston, and the last 10 in Southern California where it hasn't see rain since. Parts ordered, but not in stock, so I have 5 days to figure out the last 2 challenges... I've succumbed to the fact the AC Compressor has to come off. I removed the temp sensor and can see a bolt which looks like it's on a bracket directly below what appears to be a HVAC line - see next image. Is this the correct bolt? Just a little concerned on how to get it back in after removal. Anything else I need to know here (other wires/hoses etc to come off)? Any gotcha on that rear bolt? As far as the power steering reservoir. I presume rotate the red circled (last image) lock at which point whatever is in the reservoir is coming out (unless I suck out what's in there first). Is that correct? Thanks Mark
  15. MarkC
    Ahsai, I've removed airbox, alternator, throttle body and intake plenum - so now have access to the starter wiring. Took less than 1 hour, not bad so far. One of your other posts states the AC compressor must be loosened to remove the wire. Does the jump start post not come apart, so only the #21 wire and spade can be withdrawn? I can see (and almost touch the whole length of the wire) and there appears to be sufficient space for the wire & spade to pass between the compressor and intake. Am I missing something? Might be looking for more guidance if the compressor has to be removed. Is it possible to fish the wire(s) the other way out, i.e. pulled from the jump post, between compressor and intake? Guess I'll find all this out next weekend, after the parts arrive. Thanks Mark
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