logray

Hello! :D Not to sound rude, but in the famous words of a moderator here, if you do a quick search this has been covered dozens of times.

For what it's worth my 1999 996 w/72k miles car makes a little bit more mechanical sounding noises for a few seconds on cold startup after not being driven often enough. If I start and drive up to normal op temp a few times a day the noises lessen or even go away. The noises you hear could be normal as oil makes its way into all of the passages, through the lifters, and fills up the tensioners. If your 1999 car has a lot of miles it could also be lifters that are shot. I'm planning to remove my engine and replace the variocam mechanisms, chains, ramps, tensioners, and lifters soon to try and eliminate some of these noises and preemptive preventative catastrophic failure maintenance directives. The new tensioner design is supposed to eliminate some of the startup noises by pretensioning the chains until they fill up with oil, however with our 5 chain cars it may or may not be an applicable part depending on your engines serial number (there is a TSB here to read if you are a contributor). There are several threads here about these "normal" noises. IIRC, the early M96 motor is also known to score one of the cylinders (#6) chronically due to a couple design flaws with cooling passages - which could account for additional noises. As far as a flush for lifters or oil passageways , my school of thought is to not put in any mystery substances into the motor as they may only temporarily fix the situation but could also cause more damage. When the right thing to do in the first place is just R&R the parts that are worn. Then again, since I can't hear the noises coming your car, it could be something else. If it's "more reluctant" to start again after it's been running, your car might have an issue with the battery, starter motor, or a corroded wire. The latter being a more and more common problem on older cars. The large lead coming off the starter can corrode and will cause the car to not want to start. How all of this came out in a car washing thread, it's kinda funny.

As far as I can tell from the pictures in the porsche parts catalog, yes they are the same - but sometimes those are just representative. There was a similar question in that earlier thread but it remains unanswered. You might have luck searching more. It's pretty easy to tell if you have your car up on jacks/lift/ramp, you might have to remove one underbody panel with some plastic nuts, but then it is easy to peel/bend back the covers to see the mount and it's condition. Alternatively you could call a dealer to get the proper part number. Manual: Tip:

must keep fingers off keyboard .... must keep .... must .... . . ... argghhhhhhhh :censored: :lol:

If this is a rear seat buckle it's really simple. Just pop off the bolt cover (#6 below) with a cloth and flat head screwdriver. On my car it's held together with a couple friction fittings, so it literally just pops off. Then use a torx bit IIRC to remove it, but it could be hex - it's been a while. It is a large bolt and requires quite a bit of leverage. Not sure about tightening torques.

Sure, just unplug the oddments tray sensor, or ground the radio sensor. Then of course your alarm system will be pissed off, but you'll get a BEEP telling you your radio or oddments tray are not secure. LOL. :rolleyes:

996 107 175 50 is what I show, for that model and year it's a hose though not a bellows.

can you get into the engine bay? theres a positive terminal there too. on the right

My guess is the car wash was unrelated, unless enough stuff got into the intake somehow which is pretty implausible... if you have the stock air box, a little water in the bottom of the box shouldn't hurt anything, it's going to just sit in the bottom of the box or be "absorbed" by the air filter, or even evaporate or dry up before it makes it's way into the throttle body. Perhaps you have some frayed/corroded/damaged wires somewhere that became water logged, the oxygen sensor wires, MAF wire, etc.

Hi there, from the pics in the parts catalog the TIP and Manual uses the same mount if it is pressed in, and here is the DIY thread on the subject where I pressed a new mount into my trans: http://www.renntech....post__p__180226 Also more discussion: http://www.renntech.org/forums/topic/5029-engine-and-transmission-mount-replacement/page__hl__%2Brobber+%2Bbroken

I would be surprised a simple wash would create any new noises, unless a significant amount of stuff got into the intake. I am assuming you washed the engine? Is there a CEL on the dashboard? Sometimes a spirited drive can work these things out, unless there is a real problem in which case driving it is bad. Helps if you can post a video of the noise.

Nice work.

AH sorry, maybe I misread your post - good thing you clarified that point. The car is currently UNLOCKED? I thought you couldn't even unlock the door and you were locked out. Silly me. :rolleyes: As Maurice posted and I suggested, a locksmith can "jimmy" it open using the wedge... if it is LOCKED and you can't get in the vehicle.

Nice one!

In the USA Tmobile and AT&T both use SIM cards that are removable from any device. Neither lock the SIM to any specific IMEI - meaning you can move the SIM card to any other device.

Sounds like a call to a locksmith who can jimmy the lock, and then a visit to a dealer or Porsche shop with a PST2 or PIWIS computer to get you squared away with working keys and remote unlocking. I wonder if you also have a dead battery. There are stories about people who have successfully opened the hood latch using something similar to a credit card, but that would only get you to the battery and not the cabin. If it was a dead battery perhaps you could charge it up. Or perhaps you could then remove the front bumper and manually trip the forward impact airbag sensor which should lower the windows automatically (thinking it was in a crash), of course your airbags might also deploy. LOL. Ok, thinking outside the box. Ignore this paragraph completely. I think if I were in your shoes I would call a locksmith first and foremost.

Take it to an autoparts store and they will usually read the DTC codes for free.

And for a 996... -00 99663724301 is for USA (315 mhz) 99663724300 is for ROW (433 mhz) correct? edit: yes. M534 alarm = ROW = 99663724300 M535 alarm = USA = 99663724301

Check your power steering fluid level too...

Hello! 997 612 060 25 (#26 below). ~ $75 And yes, it looks like it connect to multiple devices, but perhaps with a new cable it could be spliced in? Or perhaps find an aftermarket gps antenna with connector that is similar? Garmin for example. Looks like it might be an MCX connector but not sure.

Can you reproduce/hear it sitting in neutral with the engine cover off and revving it? Or does the clutch have to be involved?

Thanks again for the reply. Yes I plan to replace the tensioners When I did the LN IMS retrofit about 4k miles ago the 1-3 side was scored a little (and is the side with the noise). That side also reads -3 on cam deviation, and with the oil sump plate off I've seen some of the black/orange tiny shiny bits of cam pad stuck in the oil screen as well as in the bottom of the pan. Why Porsche would stick these plastic wear parts in that can clog up tiny oil passages is beyond my reasoning... sheesh. I'm pretty sure though that I've got some lifter noise, either some are collapsed or out of spec. I guess the right thing to do is just open the wallet and replace all 24 (although reading elsewhere about replacing the lifter carriers at the same time means a much more costly R&R). 1-3 tensioner...

Hard to tell from the first fuzzy pic, it almost looks like shavings from the plug itself. And the second pic, perhaps spark tube shaving - looks plastic??? if you're seeing metal the size of a dime and you're tearing the engine down I'm pretty sure it will jump out at you once you've gotten in far enough.

+1 on the pulley, but if it is more of a whine it could also be the SAI pump. Various bearings including the wheels are known to make those types of noises. It helps if you can have the car on jack stands or a lift and then go around to the various locations to see where the noise might be coming from. It also helps if you can post a recording of the sound or video roughly from the location of it's source. To isolate a pulley you can very briefly (just a few seconds) run the car without the serpentine belt. If the noise goes away you know it's a pulley or belt.

Thanks for the quick reply. Reason I ask this is because when doing the IMS retrofit I remember reading about the ims tube resting on the oil pump console... and I guess I would be concerned about removing the oil pump cover/console - thereby relieving tension on the ims tube (thereby messing up timing/snapping shafts/etc.)... I found this thread over on rennlist I think I will post there and ask the person how they did this. That and I found this on the LN website: From http://www.lnengineering.com/ims.html Do you offer an upgraded oil pump drive that goes into the IMS? Yes, we now offer a heat treated chromoly oil pump hex drive to replace the cheap factory pump drive, which has known to fail, shearing in two, resulting in a catastrophic loss of oil pressure. The oil pump drive is located off the intermediate shaft on the opposite side that hold the ball bearing and mates to the oil pump console, located on the front of the engine. This part should not be changed with the engine in the car, as the oil pump console must be removed to R&R the oil pump drive.