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logray

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Everything posted by logray

  1. logray
    Hello! I wish every car came with a crystal ball. When to sell. How long to "keep it". Unfortunately the price of our older model 996's have been plummeting as of late. Without knowing the maintenance history of the car to this date, it's tough to say what should or shouldn't be done. Do you have the previous owners service records? Another good place to look. Have you looked at the owners manual to see the recommended service items for your cars mileage? Perhaps if you have and can share a little bit about the major service history, someone here might be able to recommend some areas to look at. Cheers!
  2. logray
    Hey there. The bearing can fail immediately, but we have heard that it can also "hang on" for a 100 miles or so before it totally blows up. The rattle could come from something else though. But just as a precaution I wouldn't drive the car until it is properly diagnosed. Hopefully it would just be lose exhaust or a bad bearing. Taking all of these precautions and having a shop look at it will be much less expensive than if it really is the IMS bearing gone south - and hopefully - it is probably something else. If it's not, you'll still have saved yourself a bucket load of money - if you catch the IMS early enough - no damage is done aside from having to replace the bearing. By the way, soon Jake @ Flat 6 will be releasing his IMS guardian detection unit, which will be able to alert drivers (before) their IMS bearings fail so they can safely pull over and stop the engine before complete meltdown.
  3. logray
    Just out of curiosity what did you pay for their services?
  4. logray
    Thanks RFM. So no oil then to lubricate the inner shaft surface, as per the 996 WSM? I was looking at TSB 1359, however I don't have access to a 9PA work shop manual. Would any one happen to paraphrase or post the RMS install procedures from a Cayenne? Probably a long shot though, posting this in the 996 forum.
  5. logray
    I've read in a several forums that there are many different "theories" as to the best way to seat a RMS - with regards to lubricant/sealant (excluding discussions about the tool). Speaking of the latest version of seal for a 996. The original work shop manual says the outer flange must go in dry. The inner crankshaft surface, inner seal, and plastic installation piece should be lubricated with heavy weight motor oil. Of course, since the original WSM was written, there have been many changes to the RMS seal. To this point, there are many different "ideas" I've read about. I am thinking that perhaps 3 is the only right answer, except perhaps using some light oil on the inner seal surfaces to aid installation and prevent scorching the RMS. 1.) Apply curil-t to the outside flange. 2.) Spray WD-40 on the inner flange instead of motor oil. 3.) Install the entire seal dry (including inner surface). The PTFE (teflon) coated treatings are all that are required for installation and normal operation. Comments/Experiences/Opinons? TIA!!!
  6. logray
    When I did this to replace a fender on my 99. If I remember right, three might (or might not be) be one easily accessible bolt on the top, then the thank just pulls out towards the front of the car. It's held in place with grommets from behind (near drivers door) and is just a compression fitting with plastic forms on the tank. No bolts or anything. Just use some brute strength or if you can fit a small pry bar behind. Be careful though, if there is fluid in the tank it can easily spill out once you remove it.
  7. logray
    Oh, sorry - you're in the UK. Well those places should ship internationally... but there should be local suppliers there who have competitive pricing. At least you can look at the links I gave you for alternatives (the tirerack.com link lists other Bilstiens and Konis). Perhaps someone will chime in with some suppliers in the UK. Here's an interesting auction you might want to see: http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/PORSCHE-996-C2-FRONT-SPORTS-SHOCK-ABSORBERS-BILSTEIN-/150612516422 They are new upgraded struts for a IX74 option. I'm not sure if they would be a direct replacement for the standard kit.
  8. logray
    If you are looking for stock replacement standard Bilstien's like the one that came with your car: P/N 99634304127 for 253.37 each. http://www.porscheoemparts.com or the link at the top of this website "porsche parts at dealer cost": http://www.renntech....poffers/sunset/ Or are you looking at aftermarket? http://www.tirerack.com/suspension/Susptabl.jsp?autoMake=Porsche&autoModel=911+Carrera+Coupe&autoYear=2003&autoModClar=
  9. logray
    I've always read assuming they are all in good condition with a clean PPI, "buy the newest Porsche that you can afford". Of course, a warranty is always good peace of mind.
  10. logray
    My experience with this. I tried the washers and the horn action was too soft. Finally I replaced the cage, and it is perfect again.
  11. logray
    Hello there. It's not a lose wire, but the rubber bushings are worn out. You can either fill the bushings with a form of silicone sealant or replace the frame that has the worn bushings. There are lots of DIY threads here on the subject. Here's one for the 986 that applies to our car as well. :)
  12. logray
    Some people also remove or substitute the spring for a different feel. Here is a good thread on that subject, if it applies to turbos as well: http://forums.rennlist.com/rennforums/996-forum/343297-improved-clutch-action-dramatically.html
  13. logray
    Ok, called a few dealers and here's what I found out. 56 (replaced 55) does not show up as being superseded by 57. Only 54 shows up as being replaced by 57. I guess when I get my hands on 57 next week I'll share whatever info I can about it. FYI the dealer could not find 57 in his version of PET either - had to go into Polaris for super session/availability inquiry.
  14. logray
    You can leave it open for a week. It will also pop up on it's own when it's at operating temp. The cap is an inexpensive item if that is the culprit.
  15. logray
    If I understand you correctly you remove the key and yet the LED display in your dash pod stays on? It is normal for the LED display (ODO/OBC/MPH/etc) to stay on for a period of time after the car is off. It will turn off automatically on it's own after a period of time or if you lock the car (does yours not?). Also if the display is off, you open the car door and turn the headlights on and then back off <or> press the odometer dial the instrument cluster LED display will come on for period of time and then turn off automatically - which is also normal. Or are you saying the "idiot lights" below the LED display stay on? For example check engine/airbag/handbrake/etc.
  16. logray
    Perhaps possible low battery / low voltage / under performing or bad alternator / corroded wiring? My car was doing something similar - it wouldn't restart after stopping when it was hot. It wasn't stalling though. I suppose perhaps with an electrical system in bad enough shape perhaps you would see some strange things with the electrical components. http://www.renntech.org/forums/topic/31797-strange-low-voltage-problems In addition - it's tough to hear from the video, but if there are any unusual mechanical sounding noises coming from the engine bay I would not try to restart it without being properly diagnosed.
  17. logray
    I would be careful using WD40 since it is a degreaser, you might actually temporarily make the problem better since it does lubricate a little, but later it could get worse if you haven't cleaned and then re-lubed using the proper grease or lubricant.
  18. logray
    Does it sound like it's coming from the top of the steering wheel (noisy airbag clockspring?), near the footwell (a little lube around the shaft collar), or somewhere under the car within the steering system (with a helper can you hear it outside or only while in the cabin), or even from the engine bay (squeaky belt/pump/pulley)?
  19. logray
    Could you have perhaps overfilled the system as well, or spilled some on various components while you were adding coolant?
  20. logray
    Yeah, LOL ... I never said it would be easy. For what it's worth I've read some people intentionally cut the vaccum line to the resonance flap on the 99 996.
  21. logray
    Perhaps you will be the first to try? I guess perhaps you could go the other way with a lot of re-wiring - source from a dismantler a newer DME (matching immo/alarm/etc.), a 2001 egas T/B and the correct map???
  22. logray
    Hi there. Let me clarify you put a 2001 2.7 liter engine in a 1999 Boxster? Why would you want to put a 1999 996 3.4L map into the DME if you have a 2.7 liter engine? :unsure:
  23. logray
    Thanks for the replies guys. Yeah I'm seeing the same thing (or not seeing it more accurately). When I went to order -54, the dealer came back with "NLA, superseded by -57). I asked a second source and they are telling me the same thing. Now I want to know what this .57 part is and whether it also supersedes .56 (and .55) Or if it just replaced .54, in which case I'll probably go forward with the order. I asked for some clarification from both parties and have yet to hear back from them. I think I stumped them. :)
  24. logray
    I am waiting to hear back from the dealer: Does .57 only supersede .54 or does it also supersede .56 (which supersedes .55).
  25. logray
    Ok, now it's getting more confusing. The dealer is saying 996-105-180-54 has been superseded by 996-105-180-57. I can't find any info about 996-105-180-57 anywhere. Does anyone have the latest PET available... no info anywhere I can see about ending in 57. Not in TSB's, anything.
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