Jump to content

Welcome to RennTech.org Community, Guest

There are many great features available to you once you register at RennTech.org
You are free to view posts here, but you must log in to reply to existing posts, or to start your own new topic. Like most online communities, there are costs involved to maintain a site like this - so we encourage our members to donate. All donations go to the costs operating and maintaining this site. We prefer that guests take part in our community and we offer a lot in return to those willing to join our corner of the Porsche world. This site is 99 percent member supported (less than 1 percent comes from advertising) - so please consider an annual donation to keep this site running.

Here are some of the features available - once you register at RennTech.org

  • View Classified Ads
  • DIY Tutorials
  • Porsche TSB Listings (limited)
  • VIN Decoder
  • Special Offers
  • OBD II P-Codes
  • Paint Codes
  • Registry
  • Videos System
  • View Reviews
  • and get rid of this welcome message

It takes just a few minutes to register, and it's FREE

Contributing Members also get these additional benefits:
(you become a Contributing Member by donating money to the operation of this site)

  • No ads - advertisements are removed
  • Access the Contributors Only Forum
  • Contributing Members Only Downloads
  • Send attachments with PMs
  • All image/file storage limits are substantially increased for all Contributing Members
  • Option Codes Lookup
  • VIN Option Lookups (limited)

logray

Contributing Members
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Posts

    2,121

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    1

 Content Type 

Everything posted by logray

  1. logray
    You can also apply 12v or 9v battery directly to the solenoid with the engine idling. If you don't hear a click then it is probably the solenoid. If you hear a click but no change in idle, it could be the actuator.
  2. logray
    If the engine had valve/piston contact you could have any number of problems from cylinder wall damage, piston damage, bent valves, guides, broken sprockets, rods, etc etc etc. It sounds to me like you would want to at the very least crack the engine case and bearing carrier open to at least do a visual inspection of the crank house and all components and all of the pistons, rods, cylinder walls, bearings, etc.
  3. logray
    It could be water pump. It could also be AOS or a blown hose. It would help if you could take some pictures of the area that is leaking, to identify where the leak might be coming from. I don't recommend driving the car or starting the engine until this problem is addressed.
  4. logray
    If you want something from who is considered the upmost authority in the world for the M96/7 engine, buy an engine (or get yours fixed) by flat 6 innovations. They can rebuild, but if yours is "too far gone" they also sell complete used and/or "new" engines including many upgraded parts. http://www.flat6innovations.com/shop/home.php
  5. logray
    I'm not sure if this applicable in the USA, but in the UK I've seen a few door to door companies or shops on DIY automotive TV shows where they will remove the gas from your system. Then allow you to do whatever repairs you need to. Then once you are done refill your system and check for leaks/certify. I'm not sure if the cost savings would be substantial vs. a complete shop done by a professional.
  6. logray
    Best of luck!!! Hopefully it is not seized or totally un-salvageable.
  7. logray
    There are some threads where people have performed an IACV (idle air control valve) ectomy. Basically drilling out the pins and then dismantling it and doing a very thorough cleaning, then reassembling it with new hardware. It is an expensive part, and I'm not surprised people have gone to these lengths. I agree with Loren that if there is a very minute crack it will not matter, because it is inline with the throttle body and shouldn't affect smooth operation of the engine. Keep an eye on it though, if it breaks in half you certainly want to replace it.
  8. logray
    Good information Richard! Keeping this one in the file for later!!! :-)
  9. logray
    How long do you wait after starting the car before shifting? If you wait a little longer for oil to fill up all the various parts in the engine does it still make the noise when you shift? How long did the car sit before you started it again cold? Does it make the noise regardless of whether you shift or not?
  10. logray
    No sorry no way to extract that I know of. The code is provided on a piece of paper with the when the sender is new. Unless the remote is provided with this piece of paper with the code, it cannot be re-programmed. The codes are unique to each remote transponder. Here is a remote I had for sale, you'll see the programming code blanked out below the barcode (which the barcode is probably the programming code for that remote).
  11. logray
    Is the trans fluid level good? Are all other gears good except 3rd?
  12. logray
    Sometimes I will clear codes to see if they come back... clears out the "old stuff" that might already be corrected and then the real stuff should trigger again. The rev past 5000 is interesting, is yours a tiptronic?
  13. logray
    Doesn't sound good. Used engine $7k or more. Rebuilt engine $10k. New engine $15-20k. Car value with bad engine, who knows - probably not even $10k. Car value with good engine, perhaps $20-$25k. It's a tough situation! I'm not sure what I would do.
  14. logray
    :( :oops: Are you going to tear it down or is it a big bucket of bolts at this point?
  15. logray
    Great news, also a good idea to put in the magnetic drain plug from LN engineering to help with that shrapnel. http://www.lnengineering.com/drainplug.html
  16. logray
    If the coolant looks and feels OK with no oil mixing you need to determine if the coolant is leaking from the tank, as I've seen that many times in the forums as a reason for that orangeish fluid near the drivers side exhaust. Check the hoses as well. If you have a lift or stands safely get under the car or from the top try to use a flashlight and extension mirror to see if the tank is leaking. Do not drive the car if the coolant level is low. Fill it properly. If the tank or system is NOT leaking. What is the consistency of the fluid in the tank? If it is coffee colored it is possible it has mixed with your oil. Search for intermix. Don't drive the car if you see coffee or abnormally colored coolant. Have it towed to a shop. Unless you did it yourself, for the solenoid take it back to where you had the work done and tell them it is still not working. It could be the actuator.
  17. logray
    It is possible that your bearing will last forever. It is also possible it will not. I don't believe there are solid statistics out there. Those that sell the replacement bearings and have studied the strength of the original suggest that even the replacement bearings that are much stronger than the original should be replaced at an interval - say every 40-60k - to avoid total bearing failure. There are also those that have 100+ k miles and have no clue as to what an IMS is, and may never know... FWIW, when I replaced the bearing on my '99 996 at 65k'ish it seemed in great shape. I don't believe Porsche has officially acknowledged the problem, other than eventually increasing the size of the bearing (as well as making it impossible to replace without complete engine teardown) and then even more recently eliminating it from the engine design. +1to JFP's comment, this is great news for our cars in that now you just install a simple detection device and may never need to install the bearing if yours is sound and lasts the life of the car.
  18. logray
    Ditto.
  19. logray
    Cool deal and thanks for the link! I haven't had a chance to read it yet but certainly will. I am a big fan of if it ain't broke don't fix it, but if there is a problem, it needs to be addressed. I've since done all the work, the car is back on the road, and I certainly found problems while I was in there... worn valve guides, worn chain ramps, broken oil filler tube, among other things. Here is the thread on rennlist! http://forums.rennli...ures-later.html And a similar thread here on renntech. http://www.renntech.org/forums/topic/38771-rr-engine-cams-and-heads If you decide to embark on this it's quite a drive for me to Silicon Valley from near Auburn, CA. As an additional note, while Wayne's book is GOOD, it is not 100% complete and no job such as this should be attempted without lots of help from these forums as well as a copy of the genuine work shop manual. Also the parts list above grew substantially after I started tearing down the engine.
  20. logray
    To ensure the fuel pump is working, if you have a fuel pressure tester you can connect to the Schroeder valve on the fuel rail and test for fuel pressure, or just connect a leak free hose to it and see if it pumps oil into a container safely (which you can then pour back into your gas tank). You can test for spark by disconnecting a spark plug lead and connecting a suitable multi-meter. Have a helper crank the engine. One or both of these tests might help you understand if the problem you face is related to the DME or immobilizer.
  21. logray
    2. If you can re-flash with tuned software you are probably OK then. I would want to see if the DME take a re-flash of a stock program. If I remember reading right aren't you creating some sort of frankenstein car with an engine from one year, and various bits and pieces? It would help if you describe more exactly what you are doing and what you are trying to accomplish. It sounds to me like there is some component in the car not agreeing with the codes in the DME and what it should expect from immo and alarm modules. 3. If you bring it to a dealer likely they will just want to sell you a new DME if they can't re-flash yours. If you drive a frankenstein-mobile in though, there's no telling what they would say.
  22. logray
    You can follow the bleeding procedure from the work shop manual and it should provide a reasonable amount of comfort that you won't have any air pockets, provided you follow it exactly. Many have done this without any ill affects. I haven't read about any horror stories, provided you follow that procedure (if you are a contributing member here Loren has a post about adding a third radiator which contains some or all of this procedure). That procedure can be somewhat lengthy and complicated, however is still not as complete as the vacuum method. In fact Porsche now uses the vacuum fill method (I understand they use an "airlift" like device). To be 100% certain though, use a vacuum tool, such as the uview airlift 55000. It is well worth the investment and you can do any other car you own or friends cars as well, ensuring complete success and fresh coolant for the rest of the devices usable lifetime. I've used my Uview Airlift 550000000000 about 6 times now and can't say enough good things about it.
  23. logray
    The reason why Mr. Raby's website throws an error is because he does not offer HTTPS (encryption) for checkout. My suggestion (and highly experienced recommendation) is that this has nothing to do with the shop's ability to provide excellent service, rather it is just an under-sight of the company he has outsourced to author an and maintain his website. If you want to purchase something from him, simply select phone order, then call in your credit card information. That way the transaction will be secure. There are other problems with his website as well, such as the awful color scheme and numerous broken links. I believe his website is the last thing on his list though.
  24. logray
    You have to understand that Jake Raby is an absolute perfectionist. This is the very reason why he wants cars flat-bedded to him, he trusts his own judgement and very few others. There are a few proud shops out there ... That being said, perfectionists can sometimes be very bright people, genius savant even. Anyhow, I certainly believe in him and his products after following his technical posts. Often people refer to his knowledge as the epitome of excellence on forums such as these and Rennlist and even here. The "buck stops" there. And very few question his comments, rather "feed" off of them. He stands by his word with this product and offers immensely generous guarantees that most companies wouldn't touch with a 1 million foot pole. It is very sad in this day an age there aren't more companies providing this type of genuine guarantee from the soul heart and soul. I believe the IMS "hype" and debacle is partially true and partially hype, whether spurred on by Jake or not. AND furthermore, for the record the upgraded bearing is developed and sold by Charles Navarro at LN engineering, and NOT Jake Raby. He merely is a "premier" expert in the subject matter. There clearly is a problem, but does it affect 5%, 10%, 15% or more of the 996? Obviously Mr. Raby runs a repair shop and is also a great innovator for these engines dealing with mainly disaster, so his viewpoint is going to be skewed towards failure rather than success.
  25. logray
    Correct. Having fried a DME myself (at the immo code part), I can vouch that a partially bricked DME will not fire the car, and one of the symptoms can be cranking but no fuel or spark (if the DME doesn't have the right immo code or bad immo code or corrupt immo code). The no fuel or spark part is the immobilizer. Isn't it nice?
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.