logray

Here's a DIY showing removal/reinstall of a switch in the dash.

To repair the stripped screw. If it goes into metal you can try to helicoil or timesert it . If it goes into plastic you'll probably need to replace whatever it screws into, whether that is the bleeder valve body or the coolant tank itself. 99610634702 bleeder valve 98- 99610614708 coolant expansion tank With the following methods you'll need to be careful you don't damage the housing (i.e. compromise it's integrity) or get any material inside the tank. Another possibility is to try epoxy or some other glue. Or a larger self tapping screw that will tap into a wider piece of plastic.

Someone had a good call out over on RL I overlooked you said it stuck to a magnet right? Unless you've installed an aftermarket drain plug the stock drain plug is aluminum = non ferrous.

It's a 1999 C2 (with return IIRC). Vacuum line on bank 1 I think.... (left, drivers, side with soot).

Mother, take a look at this thread: Among other problems, one of the problems I had was not charging the battery...

500 Mile Report. The car is a joy to drive. So much power. Idles very smooth too. When it rains it pours though. Right after I installed the engine I tested the variocam actuators with Durametric. Both banks worked, however shortly thereafter I couldn't activate bank 1 when I tried it a second time and got a P1531 code. I ohmed out the solenoid and it read near 0. Whereas bank 2 read over 13. So out came the engine again to replace the solenoid. Engine installed a second time and I've put 500 miles on the car since. Oil consumption seems to be near zilch at this point, wheras before I would have blown through perhaps 1/2 quart at 500 miles. One outstanding problem though. Bank 1 is accumulating more soot in the tailpipe (signifigantly more) than bank 2. In fact, the right tail pipe is pretty much black with soot (I had cleaned during the rebuild) whereas the left tail pipe is basically clean. This problem was devleoping before the top end rebuild and it doesn't seem to have changed afterwards. Yeah yeah, what does soot matter anyways - if the car runs great who cares, right? But I am concerned that the two banks are developing soot at a different rate. Cylinders were very smooth when I had the heads off. Could not see or feel any imperfections (of course that doesn't mean they weren't oval, which I did not measure...). But I sorta took a gamble the purple smoke (now gone) was going to be the in heads anyways... (which several valve guides were found to be shot). So thinking perhaps the soot build up could be worn rings on one or more cylinders in bank 1 since I had just done the top end, must be the other end right? The out of spec valve guides and all the valve seals were replaced during the valve job (not to mention 3 way valve cuts to ensure perfect seating)... so pretty confident where the air would leak out... I decided to do a leakdown and compression test. Warmed up the car and proceeded to get the results. Much to my surprise... Leakdown (in each cylinder the air was leaking through the oil filler tube indicating worn rings, not a hint of air from the top or bottom end). 1 = 23%, 2 = 24%, 3 = 24% 4 = 25%, 5 = 25%, 6 = 26% Not too bad for an engine with 75,000 miles on it. Not that good either, but probably not a reason to tear into it again at this point, looks like the rings have a few more miles in them. At least it shows even wear and the engine still performs well. Compression 1 = 155, 2 = 154, 3 = 150 4 = 149, 5 = 149, 6 = 149 And when pulling the plugs ALL of bank 1's plugs (cyl 1-3) look identical to this. Whereas ALL of bank 2's plugs look identical to this. Pulled the headers and the exhaust side of bank 1's head is all black and sooty after only 500 miles already whereas bank 2's head is relatively clean (albeit not sparkling like it was after the valve job). So now I am a little stumped, perhaps it is due to a fuel delivery problem? I thought perhaps the MAF could cause this, but then I should see consistency between both banks. Found a great thread on the subject, however again the problem here is with 1 bank and not both. http://www.renntech.org/forums/topic/21472-fuel-air-mixture Perhaps it could be O2 sensors, however they are all brand new (and same problem with the old ones). When I did the rebuild I had all the injectors sent off, tested, cleaned, and orings/filters replaced. I also cleaned the fuel rails as best I could with compressed air - there were no apparent blockages. I seem to remember that the design of the fuel rails might have changed with later model year cars. Perhaps this is just how the 1999 model M96-01 runs? A little richer on bank 1 than bank 2? Anyone else notice this? Pulled out the Durametric to log some data. Any more data you would like to see? At idle and up to about 3000 RPM FRA for bank 1 and 2 is 1.04. Above 4000 RPM FRA goes to .98 for both banks TRA for bank 1 is always -0.14 and for bank 2 -0.17 Hot film MAF 1.3 volts at 680 rpm idle, and 17kg air mass. On up to 500kg at 6000 RPM and 3.41 volts. (MAF was cleaned w/CRC cleaner during rebuild). How do I explain this soot buildup in bank 1 but not bank 2 ???? It's driving me crazy !!!!!! Brand new AOS dumping oil into the intake on bank 1 ???? (third AOS on this car). I meticulously cleaned all of the AOS tubes and completely overhauled the SAI system to boot. Then again, perhaps I should just ignore the soot and keep driving it. At least I'm sure that would be the advice of some... but I can't seem to ignore it after sooooo much hard work. One of my favorite quotes from this great thread is from Macster: http://forums.rennlist.com/rennforums/997-forum/616049-exhaust-soot-oil-or-fuel.html "For street cars as long as the engine's running ok, the CEL is not on, flashing, the engine exhibits no untoward behavior, oil consumption is within the allowed range, fuel consumption is in expected range, and coolant is not disappearing into the engine, the exhaust tips could be plaid for all that it matters." Bank 1 Tail Pipe (looks blacker in person, camera is brightening it up) Bank 2 Tail Pipe

Gentlemen, I just went through this a week or so ago. Hooked up PST2. Opened butterfly by hand until it stops = 80% throttle plate angle. Depressed gas pedal to floor until it stops = 80% throttle plate angle. So 80% = 100% !!!!

If you're not so convinced of the 80% hook up your computer and monitor the throttle plate angle. Go into the engine bay and open the butterfly until it stops. What do you read? 80%. Yep! Also just another possibility for lag could be related to variocam...

A Durametric can reset the service notification (I believe this feature was added in 6.x of Durametric). I'm not sure if there is any other way to do it aside from that or bringing it to a shop or dealer with that capability. This one is for a 2008, but perhaps the procedure is similar... http://www.renntech....v-6-oil-change/

Well aside from supporting theft (I'm sure Porsche has extensive copyrights/etc.), the real PIWIS requires a subscription in the $10k's range. I've read a few threads about it corrupting DME's and/or crashing in general.

Torque. Corrosion. But you won't always be able to see that. Sometimes it's just easier to replace. How old is the cable?

Certainly pull the filter again now and have a look at it. Might just be some debris from the drain plug, they are fairly soft.

99' 996 C2 history. Gas tank gauge never goes to Full. Can only fill to about 3/4 full. It can go to about 4/5th's full even if I sit there all day long topping it off, which is a bad idea. Tried rotating filler nozzle 90 degrees, 180 degrees, slow speed, medium speed, doing a hand stand and singing voodoo chants. None of that ever worked (except perhaps the chanting). Checked for fuse E6 is it? It is fine. Besides gas never poured back out of the nozzle... so... Finally decided to tackle the issue the right way. Drained fuel tank. Added 12 liters of fuel. Performed tank calibration with PST2, it read 2.43 US gallons calibration successful. I though, hmm.... that's strange 12 liters of fuel is 3.17 US Gallons. Perhaps the PST2 is smarter than I or that saying 2.43 US Gallons is it's funny way of saying how far out of whack the sensor is. Or perhaps this is a conversion issue and it really means "UK Gallons" which is actually 2.63962989 Imperial Gallons. Which would make more sense if it told me 2.43 Gallons. So off to the filling station and guess what. Same issue. Couldn't fill up the tank. So I surmised that either I didn't drain all the fuel or perhaps some other issue. I stumbled upon TSB 2015. Back into the gas tank I went, this time it was easier having done it just before. Drained all the fuel this time, down to the last drop. Until the tank was dry and I could see no more fuel and it began to evaporate off the bottom. Tie wrapped the fuel lines per TSB 2015 and ensured nothing was preventing the fuel sending arm and float from going to maximum position. Reassembled. Added precisely 12 liters of fuel (even more careful as to the amount this time). Hooked up the PST2 and tried to calibrate the cluster again. It read, "tank calibration exceeds tolerance limit" no matter how many times I tried and displayed anywhere between 2.17 and 2.23 US Gallons on the PST2. Anyhow, the gauge still works and displays some fuel, however at this point I have no idea if it is accurate or not. I put in about 8 gallons and it reads just below 1/2 full now, which I suppose makes sense? However the gas tank refill amount is appx. 64 litres (14.07 imp gallons or 16.9 US Gallons) [including or excluding? a 10 liter reserve = 2.64 US Gallons]. BTW the WSM has wrong conversion amounts for liters to imperial gallons. Do you think it could be the fuel sender at this point ($165) or am I missing something here? Thanks.

You might check Amazon UK for the Bosch sensors... I bought 4 new ones from them on the USA site for around $225 total IIRC.

Trans comes out with the engine... much easier that way...

Wow great write up thanks!

Fluctuating o2 sensor is good, but voltage should read higher indicating you might have a tired o2 sensor, it might still be OK. On the other sensor... If the voltage is steady that is not good (assuming the engine is hot).

Also take care to keep the cooler in a level position when removing it. If you tilt it too much, you'll start pouring oil and coolant all over the place. Don't ask me how I know this. :-)

Bad AOS = Tons of oil behind throttle body. Very difficult to pull oil filling cap off while engine running.

Hello! Do you have a Durametric/PST2/PIWIS or other reader? What are your O2 sensor readings? What are your FRA/TRA readings? MAF readings (voltage and air flow)?

I'll be interested in the answer to this as well since I have to replace the throttle cable on my 99' 996... it is starting to fray near the throttle body (of course the cables are going to be different, but the procedure might be similar). It looks like your P/N is 98642302508 MSRP $338.86

With the 1999 cable operated throttle, 80% is FULLY open (there is a stop there). It doesn't go to 100%. I assume 265hp is at the wheels and not the crank?

The throttle body has a stop at throttle flap 80% IIRC. It is not meant to open fully (and just because it isn't fully open doesn't mean that you aren't at WOT). What year is your car?

Hmmm..... reproducible? or just that one time... if just the one time I might agree with N41EF that this could just be residual in the system that got burnt off during a "spirited drive".