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Awesome! Great job. Now you know your crank case vacuum is normal and AOS good. :)

Thanks everyone!

That sounds a bit on the high side to me, but I have no knowledge or information about the new engine design. Since the car is under warranty I would have it checked out or at least mentioned to the dealer to see if this is within the design limits or is normal. Again, not knowing anything about the design, tracking the car heavily may require additional add-ons to deal with this. That might present an issue since the car is under warranty. That being said, it could be perfectly normal for this car.

Hey Laozi, Yes here on renntech there are classifieds. Look towards the bottom of the lists, I can't remember if you need to be a contributing member to see them or not. renntech.org is more of a "tech place" with technical solutions, and while there are cars for sale here every now and then there is a lot more "action", less techie stuff, and more chat over on other forums. For example, another popular "sister forum" is forums.rennlist.com. Post a feeler in the 993 section and/or browse their classifieds. Good luck!

Nice work, with fall and winter coming it will run even cooler! :)

Try to buy it, I hear it is still available from a few dealers. You might have to try a few dealers. Another option is to try a Porsche wrecking yard. Try one close to you, but you could also try one of the online ones such as www.dcautomotive.com or http://www.911pcar.com/. They will pull stuff for you. The second link the guys like to deal with you and while I haven't had problems with them I've heard of some problems with larger purchases. But a cheap connector, you probably aren't looking at much money. Another thing you could try is to just roll into a Porsche dealer. Go back into the garage and try to talk to a mechanic. If you're friendly enough, some of them might have the much larger kits and just pull out what you need - even though the parts counter or service guys will tell you no. You have to send a pic of it in your Vdub BTW.

Actually I think your connector kit is Porsche P/N PNA-721-043-600 or PNA-721-04-300-020 . Pretty sure the first one on a 99 cluster. As for changing the KPH to MPH or back, with the ignition on, hold the clock adjust button and turn to the left for about five seconds. (or it might be right for five seconds, and you might have to hold the button it in too if that doesnt work.)

Did you try different fuses even though they looked ok? Sometimes even though they look fine visually...

Perfectly normal. As long as it doesn't get above the right edge of the 0. What you have there is pretty common. You can check your radiator fans, turn on your a/c and you should hear them come on low speed both sides. The coolant is lifetime, but in my opinion it should be flushed at least every 5 years. But that is just an opinion.

190-192 is very normal. Add distilled water to the reservoir so it is half way between min and max. Do not attempt to add incompatible coolant. Can you post a few pictures of the fluids? I'm having trouble picturing what you mean by medial and distal. Coolant has a very distinct smell to it.

Does anyone know if a 3.6L 996 muffler will fit a 99' 996 C2 3.4L? Here's the part number info I have: 99611112157 <-3.4L 99611113169 <-3.6L I'm pretty sure they will fit since I've sold aftermarket cats that I had on my 3.4L and were later installed on a '04 3.6L C4S, but not 100% certain. Thank you in advance!

Yes the suggestion is temporary, since your car doesn't have a secondary air system or extra O2 sensors, and other codes might have to be set in the DME this might purly be to gather more data, but I doubt you would want to run a RoW car like this , might have trouble with inspections as well... so this is a pretty odd ball idea I had. Certainly knock sensors could play a role, but if they are out of spec then I believe they will throw a CEL. IF I knew the answer to your question I probably would work for Porsche, but my guess is things like temperature, lambda, air flow, etc. etc. etc. all affect the timing adjustments, the exact specifications are known probably to those few that have reverse engineered/decompiled the DME's coding and can reflash it. Yes this a wonderful post that I always recommend to people. As for loosening those sproket bolts, you are 100% ok to do this, so long as you don't drop a tool or bolt down in the engine and then be sure to retorque them to the proper value with loctite when you are done. I also recommend getting a genuine timing tool, otherwise you are just going to be guessing (as the original author was doing). Also I might caution you that even though you may correct the timing, there could still be another issue present, for example excessively worn cam pads, stretched chains, or actuator issues. So I would consider re-timing a temporary fix if that should restore your power and correct whatever issues you were having, eventually timing chains/actuators/variocam pads do need to be replaced.

For a 2001 986 car. Symptoms of failing paddle chain tensioner (the three you mention) would be abnormal noises coming from them, perhaps they are blocked and not filling with oil. Lose chains/chain slap and possible timing issue. Generally not a good situation. Symptoms of failing variocam chain tensioner (actuator) could be any of the following (not not necessarily all of them) rougher than normal idle, low power, less power throughout rpm range, possible check engine light codes, improper actual angles values, inability to activate actuator from Durametric/PST2/PIWIS.

Or LOL, thanks Loren - yes post a snip of the pic here...

That autoatlanta page is messed up for some reason, the image is correct, but the part listing is truncated for some reason. I normally use PET, but autoatlanta is preferrable for some people because you can just thumb through the pages once you get familiar with where things are. Another good page to look at is www.dcautomotive.com. They also have parts diagrams. My CDROM version of PET is too old now, and I haven't upgraded it, so I just use the PDFs that I have saved on my computer. You can do a "find" in the PET PDF catalog for the part number, in your case "997 555 577 00" (without quotes) then the search results shows you the number to the left of the part number, in this case #19, then you go up a page or two until you see the picture and find the corresponding number.

Front...

Water has better heat dissipation than coolant. You should not run 100% coolant. When you say you changed the radiators, what parts did you replace them with?

Hello from Italy! Can you post a video of the light flashing and temp gauge? Does the light flash every .5 seconds, 1 second, or two seconds? Where is the gauge needle point to when it flashes? Is the coolant level remaining constant in the reservoir or is it leaking (or disappearing)?

You could try a little more negative camber on the right and a little more cross caster +, there is a very small margin of adjust-ability within the mounting bolt holes for caster. Example change to front right: Camber -0.45 to -0.5 Caster 7.8 <---- a little more positive as well if you can do it, or a little more negative on the other side. "For vehicles set up to drive on the "right" side of the road, the right side is aligned with a little more negative camber (about 1/4-degree) and a little more positive caster (again, about 1/4-degree) to help the vehicle resist the influence of crowned roads that would cause it to drift "downhill" to the right gutter"

Do you have the alignment specs to share?

http://www.porsche.c...997_KATALOG.pdf Page 267, #19 in the picture.

Also what were your compression numbers?

Gotta love the easy ones!

This is interesting, I have heard of this before. I would have a few questions though. What is blocking it, is it from dirty oil, an exterior leak (air/dirt leaking into the system)? And say it were blocked, if you were to "unblock" it, where would that grime and material go next, and could it potentially damage the engine's interior due to oil passageway blockage. For example even though that material may just go into the sump, it is possible in the stock filter housing design for some oil (and debris) to bypass the oil filter. In which case I would not want to risk trying to unstick that material without an engine teardown, at least not without getting additional advice first. You may want to consider the larger motorsports AOS version for your Boxster, this may have extra capacity at higher flow rates and could solve your smoking issue, since I've read about this solving similar smoking issues on cars that are tracked heavily. Along with the Motorsports AOS installation or even prior to spending that money I would still perform a leakdown test as high RPM then off the gas and smoke out the tailpipe is an indication of valve train issues as was mentioned earlier a few times.

Here you go. 986 DME setpoints attached. Yes the numbers should be the same between ME5.2.2 and ME7.2. Also I've been told from a very reliable source that cam deviation is OK out to +/- 6 degrees, even though listed as 4 degrees pos or neg. You should address the 8 degrees deviation because that is 2 degrees beyond (advanced) than it is supposed to be. My car has the most power throuhgout the range when cam timing is 0 degrees. The cams should be checked for proper timing and re-timed. You may also be having a problem with an actuator. With a warm engine, you should log your "actual angles parameters" at idle, and then again at 3000 rpm. And then post the results back here. I've also wondered on a RoW car even though they may only have one cam position sensor, if one could move that sensor to the other bank and then gather more readings. I suppose it would be possible even to purhcase another CPS, install it, and reflash the DME to USA. It could be a problem with the variocam system, and/orthe car is too far out of timing which will both affect performance, You might also check that the throttle body is clean and there are no intake leaks. If your car has one, you might also want to clean the idle air control valve.