logray

Fuel injector leak/clog or bad, bad injector cable, bad spark cable?

Oh, sorry for the confusion. The AOS does have coolant running through it to prevent it from freezing. It also has oil vapor and a direct passage to oil channels, so if there is a crack in the plastic, perhaps yes it could cause some oil to mix with coolant or the other way around. But I'm not 100% positive about this. You should get more opinions about it. <edited for accuracy>

A lot of the minor and major services on these cars are certainly achievable by most backyard mechanics, and there is no reason to pay a dealer $300 or $400 for an oil change.

Oil cooler can also cause oil to mix with coolant. Not sure, but perhaps AOS can also cause intermix in some form, since both oil vapor and coolant run through it? Cracked head can cause oil to mix with coolant. <post edited for accuracy>

Which way did you turn it? CW or CCW?

It sounds like your procedure is sound so you might be dealing with other variables at this point if the cam timing tool won't fit... worn cam pads, stretched chains, bad actuator, or other. Your ign timing wasn't that far off, not sure if it's a reason to tear into it anyways??? Are there any other symptoms other than slightly down on power? And you're certain your MAF is good and your resolved any intake leaks? Could be the sensor too, as mentioned previously, you might be able to use a multi meter to check the resistance between pins to see if it is within spec. Or just try a different one.

Glad you got that sorted. Should be fine with the loctite. My guess is you rotated the crankshaft the wrong way while the sprocket bolts were loose (it actually works opposite from what is intuitive). In other words, rotate crank clockwise retards cam timing while counter-clockwise advances cam timing. So you need to rotate counter-clockwise appx 1 inch (guess) with the cam sprocket loosened. Also did you fix that tube leak?

Someone just asked for this the other day. Here you go.

Here's the link to the Motorsports AOS: http://www.planet-9.com/reviews/cayman-performance-modifications/p183-with-porsche-motorsports-oil-seperator.html

Oh no! Well at least you gave it the ol' college effort right? I remember seeing a service in the UK that would go door to door and suck all the gas out of the system, then you could do whatever repair you needed to and then they would come back, charge the system and test/repair for leaks.

If you have a large ACE hardware store nearby, take one of the screws to them. You can also try Fastenal. Either of these sources should be able to provide an exact match.

If you put it up manually while parked you can get out of the car and look at it. You can install a hack so that an LED illuminates when it goes up or down. While you are driving, you can just barely see the top of the spoiler out the rear view if you are tall enough. Spend a little time with search, there are threads about how to lube the spoiler to help with the squeaking.

Post a pic, if it's a really small gap I think that is normal.

Ditch the floor mats? Aside from that center console delete sounds most probable. My guess is your new seats probably have more hardware and thus less clearance than the standard seats. Other than that you are on your own drilling or cutting...

IIRC you pry the side flaps on the green piece out a little with a very small flat head screwdriver and it pops right off.

Actual angles should advance by about 25 degrees depending on RPM/temp. (we don't know bank 2 because you don't have a CPS there). Your cam deviation is 23.3 degrees advanced so what you saw is pretty good, just about on the mark and probably not cause for concern.. Here is a good read about variocam in your car: http://forums.rennli...s-a-primer.html How many miles and what year of car again, not sure if we got that yet? Fix the cam timing and then check all the values again. Both banks should be at 0 degrees. Again I do recommend a genuine cam timing tool instead of just eyeballing it.

Here are the guts of an oil scavenge pump. Just a gear and the housing. No filters.

You would need a very fine grain gauge. 4-7 inches of water is equal to 0.294 - 0.514 inches of mercury. Very difficult to see on a standard gauge. edit: it might work though, with very excessive vacuum if it reads above 1 in hg might indicate bad AOS.

Did you try cleaning your throttle body and idle air control valve? That's pretty normal though if it doesn't hunt continuously. This sounds within limits to me. It's too bad Porsche didn't install another CPS on ROW cars. Anyways, -8 degrees is certainly out of spec. The WSM says +/-4 degrees from 0 is acceptable, however I've been told that 6 degrees either way is acceptable (albeit still out of time). When the cams in each bank are timed at the same, this will produce the best results for the engine. At least on my car it ran the best with 0 degrees, but I have experimented with 6 degrees advanced and retarded. The moving part of your data is what disturbs me a little. Perhaps your sensor is worn. Perhaps it is just Durametric's ability to read fine grain. However, nearly 0.5 degrees at the crank change from cold engine to warm means the cam timing is changing by 0.25 degrees while running the engine. The cam deviation is not supposed to change. If it's not the sensor or Durametric being too sensitive, this could be attributable to timing chain stretch, variocam pad wear, or actuator issue (or worse such as sprocket slipping or ims bearing) and perhaps a reason to open the cam covers. I would get a second opinion on this. When you put the camshaft deviation on a graph, does it move constantly, or do these fluctuations only happen slowly as the car warms up. There is information out there that a fluctuating cam deviation could indicate the IMS tube is wobbling due to a failing IMS bearing, however It's too bad we can't see bank 2... although at least on a 996 it isn't too hard to remove the cam bearing cap for the exhaust cam on bank 2 to see the timing mark and get a timing tool in there. This indicates normally functioning variocam actuator on bank 1. Might indicate/correlate with the cam timing deviation. I believe RKAT (short term adaption at idle) is TRA. FRA long term adaption a little high indicates lean if I remember right, the DME is trying to add fuel. and your negative TRA at idle means rich since it's trying to remove fuel. Also have you checked for intake vacuum leaks and cleaned your MAF?

Unlike 3.4's engines, on the 3.6L the four variocam solenoids (qty 2 for lift and qty 2 for timing) can be replaced without removing the cam covers.

What is the crank case vacuum? Here is information regarding how to definitively test for a bad AOS: What are the leak down results? A leak down test will indicate whether or not there are issues with the valve train or piston rings. What are the intake manifold vacuum gauge results? That in conjunction with the leak down can provide very valuable evidence as to where the issue might lie. Did you install the larger Motorsports AOS or are you still running the stock AOS?

Primary wire corrosion is also a possibility.

It could be a micro switch on your door, but these few statements in your post would put my money on the ignition switch. All sorts of strange electrical "gremlins" are usually caused by a failing ignition switch. That is a common failure point with a lot of unexplainable electrical issues. "The power will come back on it's own usually after a short time. sometimes it will drop again when you turn the key and other times it will remain on." "Also my instrument panel seems to have no memory as I can set the clock and it is reset each time I turn the key off." "One last thing I noticed but not recently was that if I flicked the dimmer switch forward it would interrupt the radio power briefly." "sometimes it has on power, no lights come on when door is opened and no dash lights illuminate"

Hello! Ignition switch.

There are plenty of nuts in the compartment, frame, and driving mechanism. However sizes don't seem to be listed. Have you browsed through these parts pages? http://www.autoatlanta.com/porsche-parts/986-97-04/811-05.php http://www.autoatlanta.com/porsche-parts/986-97-04/811-12.php http://www.autoatlanta.com/porsche-parts/986-97-04/811-13.php