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logray

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Everything posted by logray

  1. logray
    It could be the repairs made previously caused the leak or didn't fix the leak properly. The spark oring seals require some high temp thermal grease otherwise they can leak, the tubes must be fully seated. The cam cover silicone must be applied absolutely correctly otherwise it will leak. The 23 cam cover bolts must also be NEW micro-encapsualted with sealant already on the bolt head base OR they must be cleaned and then a small bead of silicone applied to the base of each bolt otherwise they can leak. The IMS shaft seal would cause a leak through the bottom of the bell housing. If you think it is coming from the top I might start by attacking the oil filler tube and crank vent, but again, you have the right idea. Clean the areas and then monitor where the leaks are coming from and attack them one by one. The AOS itself is about $100 USD, but is a pain in the *** to replace, some say go in from the top, but it is just about as much time and difficulty to drop the transmission and go in from the rear.
  2. logray
    Hi Lee from London! Well you certainly are on the right track with cleaning the areas and then monitoring. Yes, the spark plug tube orings can certainly leak and is a simple job to do using a rubber boat plug. The camshaft covers themselves are sealed by silicone (loctite 5900), and while they can leak if the silicone is very old or wasn't applied properly, the tube seals seem to be more common. Also on both camshaft covers are variocam covers which can leak (1998-2001 have one seal per side, 2002-2005 have 4 orings per side, one per variocam actuator). On the RH side of the car, there is a crank breather on top of the 4-6 cyl head front of engine that can leak. On same of the car the there is an oil cooler on top of the engine (rear) which it's orings can leak. On the LH side of the car, there is an air oil seperator which can leak. On to top of the engine, oil can pool from various sources, AOS and it's various tubes and orings, oil filler tube and it's orings, and oil dipstick and it's orings. HTH and good luck!
  3. logray
    Sorry, not sure about the part validity or removal/installation. But I did find a cheaper used source for you... http://dcauto.gotdns.com/search/index?target=986+331+052+06&searcher=&commit=Search
  4. logray
    Cams are probably in spec then. What does the spark plug look like in that cylinder? Did you do a compression and/or leak down test?
  5. logray
    Yes, it is that stiff. And the car is pretty light, so even a small floor jack should have no problems.
  6. logray
    I've been onto EBS' website and I think I've even looked at their rebuild before. Sorry though I can't recall reading any feedback about their services. The list looks pretty thorough for a 3.4L. About the only red flag you might want to question. Are they are just re-ringing the pistons without any cylinder treatment? The problem with 3.4L Lokasil is, if it is oval or worn, there really aren't many options for treatment aside from Nikasil. If this is a low mileage donor or one where the cylinders aren't oval then this shouldn't be an issue. A few things I would also consider replacing while they are in there. The other 3 drive chains (and crank to ims rail) Lifters (and carriers if they are out of spec) LNE billet IMS paddle Chain tensioners Variocam actuators & solenoids Spark tubes Oil scavenge pumps LNE billet oil pump hex driver ARP main bolts Oil separators (inside sump) I also recommend you have the engine balanced while it is apart. So you need a used head? They can't recondition the one you've got?
  7. logray
    Hello, if you post your engines serial number, located on the side of the engine oil sump plate (near LH rear wheel), we can decode the information for you.
  8. logray
    Hmmm.... that would throw a CEL, plus it wouldn't disable spark at the same time (perhaps until the ECU figures out that injector is offline). So not sure about that, I would get a second opinion about doing that.
  9. logray
    If they think it is one of the cylinders, using Durametric you can disable ignition for a certain cylinder one by one. If the noise goes away on a certain cylinder then you can start narrowing it down. I would try the simple stuff first: Pull the plug and look at it's condition Ensure plugs are torqued correctly. Check coil packs for cracks Swap plugs/new plugs, swap coil packs. If still have a noise... Compression test Leak down test Certainly you could pull the injector (engine off) and have it cleaned or swap it with another bank to see if the noise follows. Don't pull the injector though with the engine on otherwise you'll have a big fuel mess on your hands.
  10. logray
    What all do you get for the $9k, do they split the case or just work on the heads and other stuff outside?
  11. logray
    hmmm.... smells more like faulty ignition switch to me. Any other electrical gremlins?
  12. logray
    Hmmm... if it doesn't restart when hot, not so sure it is the fuel pump... again what is the reasoning/evidence behind that? There seem to be several more common issues for this such as weak electrical, corroded main engine pos wire, or neg wire, or faulty crank position sensor, etc. Sure fuel pump could be an issue too... but one should rule confirm or deny that before spending $1000 on a repair. As for the price. The 1999 C4 pump P/N 99662010300 goes for $344 discounted (+ tax/ship). I'm not sure what the book time is, but accessing the pump is not all that difficult on a C2, could be harder on a C4 due to the limited space. Basically on a C2 remove the battery, tray, and gas tank cover. Then remove the level gauge and the fuel pump comes right out. I would guess a couple hour job @ say $125/hr = $250. So total around $600-$700 sounds more like it to me.
  13. logray
    And don't forget at least a large enough crescent wrench (or wrench) to swap it out... not sure if the stock provided one in the toolkit goes to 24mm.
  14. logray
    I think hard driving and fresh oil are about your only chances, short of removing the camshaft covers and replacing the lifters.
  15. logray
    Ditto, also check the condition of the battery, charging, and starting system. In addition the condition of the large positive lead coming from the alternator to starter to jumper point in the engine bay.
  16. logray
    Agree on the throttle body, but if there is a slight miss (at idle and/or higher rpms) I would bet the engine would be a little rumbly and could search a little.
  17. logray
    Porsche rebuilt (remaned) the 1999 engine in 2005, as best I can make out.
  18. logray
    Curious there are no codes. I wonder if one of your variocam actuators is marginal or on it's way out (going bad). That is pretty far out of time, 9.8 degrees, and since your car sounds like it is ROW, we might not have the other bank's timing information. I would correct the timing and see if it continues to have a slight misfire. Also did you say you cleaned the injectors (removed, cleaned, and reinstalled), or did you buy new injectors, or did you just use fuel injector cleaner in the gas tank?
  19. logray
    It might make sense to test the fuel pump before replacement. It can be tested for both volume/time and pressure. There are plenty of other reasons for no start such as weak or faulty electrical, sensors, etc. There are also different types of no start... slow crank, no crank, crank without fire, etc... each with their own different plausible causes.
  20. logray
    Simple! Just remove your dash and then see if the noise is still there. Right? In seriousness though, I find it helps to have someone else in the car to isolate these types of noises... have you tried that yet?
  21. logray
    That looks to me like oil between the engine and transmission bell housing. Usually that is the IMS flange seal, or the RMS, or a combination of both.
  22. logray
    Yes, barring any other issues discovered during the repair this is the complete list that I can think of. In addition to a wide variety of off the shelf tools (wrenches, sockets, etc.), you need a camshaft lock tool, camshaft hold down tools, and depending on your engine S/N either a LH or RH threaded rod in order to compress the variocam mechanism (although I did it once using tie wraps, I wouldn't do that again). As for things that are not necessary, I wouldn't skimp on anything myself to save $20 or $30. You would be asking for problems down the road (or even immediately). If the engine gets dropped, the fluid stays in the transmission. Your car is a manual correct? The coolant gets drained but if it is in good condition it can be used again. Same with the oil if you just changed it, it can be reused again.
  23. logray
    If the battery is a more than a couple years old and does show any signs of weakness, depending on how many years it is rated to last, it might be cheaper just to replace... wallymart, autozone, costco are all places you can get a cheap battery. Regardless though I highly recommend a battery tender if it is going to be stored for any period of time, say longer than 2 or 3 weeks without starting it.
  24. logray
    Interesting they found the battery condition OK, if this is an original battery, 7 years is pretty long for any battery (although the original MOLS battery that was in my 996 lasted about 8 years before it crapped out). I'm wondering if the battery is marginal and even though it passes a short test, perhaps it is marginal? As for the trickle charger, this one comes highly recommended by just about everyone and as an added bonus RT.org gets some of the profit if you buy it through the store: http://astore.amazon...tail/B001684YCK
  25. logray
    Just as an FYI, the instructions to replace the bulbs are in the owners manual, for anyone who reads this in the future - you don't need a work shop manual... and if you lost your owners manual and are a contributing member here you can download them here on renntech.org. Great work! :)
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