logray

Correct, you can remove the oil filter without draining out all the oil. The filter only holds a small amount of oil.

Yes, don't use them. Also, it is really tough to diagnose your noise without being able to hear it, if you make a you tube of it perhaps that could help diagnose. As txhokie points out your noise might not be lifter related because it does not increase in frequency with RPM.

You'll have to request them from the dealer or shop doing the pre-purchase inspection.

Can they leak? Sure... frost plug P/N 90003602302 for about $1.00 Or take them to your local machine shop and have it done right... they probably have a plug that will fit or can press it in for you. They can either replace with a new plug or even tap the hole and put in a threaded plug.

Have you researched the legality of this? I have considered doing so for my 1999 Carrera manual since I would like to have an electronic copy of it. If it is ok to post here, I could certainly do that.

I guess it depends on how far you want to go with the cleaning. If you clean and straighten fin by fin depending on how bad they are you could be looking at far cheaper to just plunk down $250 ish IIRC for a new radiator (per side).

2 hours seems like a pretty reasonable estimate actually.

The ones advertised online are probably "fakes", the only genuine technicians manuals are from Porsche directly. I saw your post earlier about not being able to release the tab on the switch. This can be tricky. Sometimes I've fiddled with it for 10 minutes without luck and then the next time I put the tool in it clicks off the very first time. Try using a different tool, be gentle about it, it doesn't take any force to release the clip.

Glad you got it sorted. Another alternative to removing and replacing all of those fuses would be to disconnect the negative lead from the battery.

Searching idle could also be from plugs or intake leaks.

LOL, I think I like the $13 Napa replacement better. :)

Nope, there's no slack in the cable at all and you have to get in the very bottom corner below the headlight housing. Jack the front of the car, remove the wheel. Removing the wheel liner is not very difficult to do with a 10mm socket and a flat head screwdriver or pair of pliers. Then you have clear access to the loop. Some owners have reported there is no loop, and that it is just a cable end (like bike cable), and you have to pull on it with some pliers. It's pretty tight in there, my finger doesn't fit. Now that I know where this is in the future for one of those "just in case" moments!

Yes. See the pictures of my 1999 car. :)

I wouldn't replace lifters with engine in car myself. Hands wouldn't fit... too many chances for mistakes. If someone has done that before and is experienced at doing that then yes certainly as txhokie points out it is possible. I would get a second opinion from a local mechanic before diving in... I would feel silly if you replaced the lifters and the noise is still there.

http://forums.rennlist.com/rennforums/9048160-post24.html

Smells like a normal smell to me! :D Yes, the cosmoline rust preventative and clutch can produce some interesting smells you wouldn't find on most cars... If the oil level is fine, and there aren't any excessive leaks then you continue to operate the vehicle worry free.

You replaced the bleeder but not the tank, I am wondering if there is a leak at or around the bleeder and or a problem with the new bleeder as that fluid would run around the top of the tank into the drain hole near the fill cap. Also I see you replaced the cap. Perhaps the new cap is somehow defective or cross threaded (or old threads on old tank are a problem). Holding vacuum is certainly a red herring, since fluid is still leaking. Are you certain the system is not overfilled and is bled properly? If none of those are the cause I would tend to agree with Loren that you need a new tank.

Are you certain it's only coming from the overflow tube? Perhaps a hose clamp wasn't tightened down or one of the new hoses isn't slipped on all the way or is damaged?

150psi compression is really very poor. This could be attributable to timing (still sounds like it's not corrected), or other spark/fuel/cylinder/piston problems. Have you also performed a leak down test?

This might help... http://forums.rennli...401-post49.html If that's not enough info... If you are contributing member I think more info about cam timing is in one of the after sales training engine pdfs available for download here. Just curious why you need to know the cam timing, are you looking to modify (i.e. have you installed aftermarket cams?)

http://forums.rennlist.com/rennforums/9044705-post2.html :)

I would be surprised if the leak shows up at 5000 rpm but not at cold idle when oil pressure is just as high. Could just be once it warms up enough??? You're certain (a) leak is coming from the camshaft cover then... Is the leak on the RH or LH side or both? Middle, front of the engine (rear of car) or rear of engine (front of car)? Pictures are great to share! Anyhow, for the cam cover seal. It's a very tough job to do with the engine in car from what I've read unless you have really small small hands and access to a large selection of quality tools (and a lift/ramp helps tremendously). The engine has to be lowered some which means disconnecting lots of stuff that you need to undo to drop the engine, so why not drop the engine?.. without disconnecting lots of stuff you can only safely lower it a few inches. I've only done this procedure with the engine out of car. With engine out of the car it's really not all that hard but you must follow procedures precisely (spelled out in the workshop manual). There are several write-ups on how to do this, but I'll summarize the key points for you. Camshafts must be locked/held in place with hold down tool before removing camshaft cover. The 23 cam cover bolts removed and tightened in correct sequence (buy new bolts since they come pre-micro encapsulated to help prevent leaks). All old sealant cleaned off with paint thinner/acetone. The bead of sealant must be applied perfectly and according to the WSM, and 1 to 1.5mm in size. Do not use more than that. You can use "drei bond", loctite 5920, or loctite 5900 as the gasket material (in that order of preference). Engine retimed/timing checked when done. If you're going through this trouble to remove a camshaft cover it makes sense to replace things while you're in there (is this a 3.4L?, if so replace the cam to cam timing chain & variocam pads). For either 3.4L or 3.6L spark tubes and orings, oil scavenge pump orings, camshaft end caps, (and for 3.6L new actuator orings).

http://www.ebay.com/...R-/260860349632 Also: http://forums.rennlist.com/rennforums/996-forum/198499-auto-dimming-mirror-part-id-issue.html

Yep that's perfectly normal.

Hi you can use drei bond which I've heard is the best. Porsche P/N 00004320373. I've used Napa copper permatex 5920, it works really well, no leaks. Another more probable explanation though assuming you followed the correct bead application pattern & size, torque, and tightening sequence is that you didn't use new micro-encapsualated cam cover bolts. The new bolts come with a small amount of sealant on the base of the head, which helps further to prevents leaks. If you don't want to buy new bolts you can clean the ones you have and apply fresh sealant to the base of each bolt head before you fasten them. You'll need to work fast though, since it sets quickly. Helps to have two people or a way to dispense the stuff quickly.