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logray

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Everything posted by logray

  1. logray
    If you haven't started the car after 3 years I would change the oil at the bare minimum before starting it back up.
  2. logray
    Certainly the percentages are just guesses, as no one has the statistics. From http://www.lnengineering.com/ims.html: "By their estimates, they figure a 90% survival rate of the bearing used in the IMS at 90,000 miles* - resulting in a staggering 10% failure rate (called the Ll0 life)! *Assuming an average speed of 60mph in top gear."
  3. logray
    Any shop (dealer or independent) with a Porsche computer, PST2 or PIWIS can program a spare key. Without access to a computer, programming a spare key is impossible.
  4. logray
    And a complete engine teardown with new crankshaft and bearing carrier will set you back the cost of a replacement engine.
  5. logray
    Did you remove the flywheel and try to move the crankshaft by hand to validate the play is in the crank and not the flywheel? .0.0625" is a huge amount of play (21 times more than normal). I would be surprised if the engine is still running (it shouldn't be). I would validate those measurements with a good dial indicator on the crank before moving forward. And I wouldn't run the engine until you do so. Normal radial play should be around .003" (less when there is oil pressure). edit: the figures above are for radial play, for some reason I had this in my mind and misread the op's original post. What he is talking about is axial play (end play)... the issue is still very serious, end play carries different measurements and is controlled by the thrust shims as JFP notes below.
  6. logray
    Hmmmmm.... smells like a crankshaft position sensor, but hard to say. But it could also be electrical. Perhaps battery, alternator, wiring, or even a faulty module. edit: forgot to mention fuel. Are there any stored codes? (most places such as autozone/etc. will read codes for free).
  7. logray
    The IMS bearing is a much debated topic on this engine. As your indy said, some cars go kaboom (maybe 10% or less) and others (perhaps 90% of all cars) go on for their whole life without nary a problem. If you don't upgrade the bearing with LN Engineering's ceramic hybrid you can buy a preemptive bearing failure monitoring/notification system from Flat 6 innovations. It's up to you whether you want to drive the car wondering if you are in the 90% or 10%. http://www.flat6innovations.com/shop/product.php?productid=16285
  8. logray
    Did the pressure gauge on the dash read anything? Did you put the oil scavenge pumps on the correct way?
  9. logray
    Yep normal!
  10. logray
    If you don't plan to crack open the case and are only going to remove the heads, I would replace just about everything in the heads (both of them) and outwards. Variocam actuators/solenoids, gaskets, seals, orings, AOS, paddle tensioners, ramps, spark tubes, plugs, lifters, chains, valve springs and other related valve hardware, valve guides, oil pumps, bolts, crank breather, oil fill tube, etc. etc. etc. That will up the previous given estimate by about $2k bringing it closer to 5k for a quality DIY job. Keep in mind you'll need to spend around 500-600 in machine shop services for a QUALITY cracked repair & valve job (full head rework). Apparently the best head rework in the world costs about 1500 per head... but don't let that scare you unless you are an absolute perfectionist and money is no object. That being said however, if you are on a tight budget you can reduce the parts list above substantially (back to the 2500-3000 range) and still have a good running engine (albeit with some compromises reusing 91k parts).
  11. logray
    There are tons of p-cars driven hard very regularly with tens upon tens of thousands of miles, countless DE or track events where those types of high RPM shifts are perfectly normal. This is a high performance sports car, not a Prius. Can the car take it if you drive it hard? Absolutely!!! Will you go through more clutches, tires, flywheels, brakes, oil changes? Yes! Could the engine benefit from mods to help strengthen/prolong it's life if you plan to drive it hard all the time (track)? Yes...
  12. logray
    I'm not sure about the negative camber affecting tire wear dramatically. That is sorta a religious topic though. Anyways, if you have the money I would go for the PSS9's or PSS10's. They are phenomenal. I have them on my car and before/after I still get about 15k (normal) on my rears. They do stiffen up the ride significantly, are adjustable, and lower the car. But the payoff in handling is tremendous. On #10 the shifting response is fantastic.
  13. logray
    There are some things pre-wired, but typically not that I've seen behind the horseshoe.
  14. logray
    Since it's under warranty, don't sweat it personally. I would have a word with the service shop manager though... IIRC the lemon law says the car has to be in the shop for non-routine maintenance for 3 (4?) weeks out of a year. I almost got to take advantage of that law once, but the dealer "knew" their time limit was coming. The result? The car was in the shop less than the lemon law rules. AND they did a very impressive job on a new transmission, new hoses, new radiator, and new ECU. Nary an oil leak after that "last" service and not a hint of a problem with the car.
  15. logray
    What you describe is the functionality of the rear fog lamp. Having only a single rear fog light on is by design and required in most foreign countries, especially in Europe.
  16. logray
    Sweet thanks, sounds like the ticket! Good luck with the switch.
  17. logray
    The airbags have a much longer shelf life and should not need to be checked every 2 years. In fact, you can go to a junk yard and really old ones will still deploy, however they cannot resell them by law. As for reading the faults, if you have access (or a nearby neighbor) that will read the codes for you (for free perhaps) from a Durametric, PST2, or PIWIS the fault codes can be very specific. Sometimes telling you exactly where the fault is and what needs to be replaced.
  18. logray
    Not sure of your model year car, but a small amount of time with search brought up this potentially useful thread.
  19. logray
    Well, for a USA car there are two o2 sensors on bank 1. One before the cat and one after. Which one do you think you need to replace and why?
  20. logray
    There's this write up too. http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/Boxster_Tech/22-FUEL-Fuel_Pump/22-FUEL-Fuel_Pump.htm Not so much a DIY job unless you have a PST2 then I would consider it...
  21. logray
    I think I posted this somewhere else but will post it again here. These are all of the pins required. Fewer might work, but you'll miss some functions/monitors within the DME without all of these. Ground DME pin 6, 28, 34, 55 OBD pin 4 12 Volt Constant DME pin 26. 56 (ign) OBD pin 16 OBD pin 1 K-LINE DME pin 88 OBD pin 7 Programming, apply 12volts at time of programming DME pin 60 OBD pin 12
  22. logray
    Sorry, I was thinking of the sensor at the front part of the dash close to the window. I believe that is a sun sensor and alarm light indicator, not a passenger compartment sensor.
  23. logray
    Perhaps you could get a used one? www.dcauto.com for example. Have you looked at the parts diagrams? http://www.autoatlanta.com/porsche-parts/996-99-05/817-65.php http://www.autoatlanta.com/porsche-parts/996-99-05/817-60.php I've been considering doing the foam on my car. Did you notice a big difference before/after?
  24. logray
    Well, IIRC Porsche has made the tranny parts available now... but I haven't seen any DIYs. Have you read about the detents, I've heard they can improve these types of problems (unless you're sure its a synchro). http://www.gboxweb.com/detent.html
  25. logray
    Did you replace both of the compartment sensors? IIRC there is one near the reading light and a second near the windshield. For wiring, you could test for continuity between the alarm module and the sensors.
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