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logray

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Everything posted by logray

  1. logray
    Is it a ton of steam or just a little? Does it smell or taste sweet? That could be a sign it is anti freeze and there is a leak in the engine bay or heater core that needs to be repaired quickly (very harmful to your health to keep driving it). If it's not anti freeze and not exceesive, I've had the same issue in my carrera. Not excessive steam, but certainly enough moisture in the air to seriously fog up the glass. If there is no smell and it is just water vapour, then perhaps trying turning on your air conditioning to dry out the air, even if used with your heater.
  2. logray
    This is the normally aspirated forum... no biggie I guess... I doubt many people filter through posts by lists these days anyhow! What happened to your car, bent valves is never a good thing.
  3. logray
    I am wondering if your alarm module is damaged, perhaps from water.
  4. logray
    Any PIWIS system you see for $2k is not genuine. That carries with it, potential for bugs, lack of updates, as well as contributing to theft of Porsche's proprietary information. The real PIWIS costs many more times that, plus it requires a yearly subscription. Unless you have more than 3 cars, you can get the enthusiast version of Durametric for less. It is a great tool and perhaps one of the best alternatives to owning a genuine Porsche computer.
  5. logray
    This is what I came up with: 996.104.116.71 exhaust valve guide 996.104.115.76 intake valve guide From: http://www.stuttgart...-00_c_6136.html Oh, and your post is in the wrong sub-forum... ;)
  6. logray
    The 996 procedure should be very similar.
  7. logray
    As mentioned, complete engine tear down. Yes, #24. Here are a few pictures of them. from my engine... from flat 6 innovations...
  8. logray
    Probably did it as a gift huh... sorry to hear this.
  9. logray
    You can swap the electronics inside it is easy to do. ANY type of programming requires a PST2 or PIWIS computer (independent shop or dealer) and your vehicles security codes (only obtainable at a shop with PIWIS subscription). Without the programming code the spare key might not be able to be matched to your car. I think it might be possible though, if you have one key that still works part of the programming steps includes pressing the button on the other remote transponders to add them to the list of authorized remotes (can't remember if that requires the 40 digit programming code or not).. And IIRC later cars (not 2000) dealers can look up codes in their database.
  10. logray
    The common solutions are above in this thread but I'll summarize again. 1. Low battery ((remove and have bench tested at auto parts store for free) 2. Failing starter (remove and have bench tested at auto parts store for free) 3. Failing alternernator (remove and have bench tested at auto parts store for free) 4. Corroded wiring: a.) ground straps from engine to chassis or battery to chassis (inexpensive easy to replace parts) b.) positive lead from starter to alternator to jump point in engine bay (inexpensive but more difficult to replace) 5. Failing sensor such as flywheel position sensor In my case it was 4b, and this seems to be fairly common problem if you've eliminated the other possibilities.
  11. logray
    Not sure if this is the right place for this post, but it seems considerably more responsive than the old server to me.
  12. logray
    Indeed fellow North American! The thrust shims are not particularly happy with such vehicular operational behaviors! http://forums.rennlist.com/rennforums/9089929-post13.html
  13. logray
    Or the manual laborious method, one by one read the TSBs... ;) Be careful though, since there is a can of worms inside!
  14. logray
    Hah good catch on the diagram! :) Actually other errors too (which I edited to correct): I misread his original post and quoted radial play measurements when he reported problems with axial play... controlled by the thrust shims.
  15. logray
    hah! good catch. :)
  16. logray
    Sorry, but the car has to go to a shop (dealer or independent) with a PST2 or PIWIS computer and access to your cars IPASS security codes.
  17. logray
    The newer PTFE rear main seal is much improved if you have the old one on there. Included with that 2k price when they did my clutch they replaced the old and put the new seal in, and it was dry after 25k miles.
  18. logray
    I paid $2000 for a clutch job at a dealer about 4 years ago. I didn't have the time to work on my car at that time otherwise I would have done it myself for about $600 in tools and parts. $3100 is definitely on the high side, do you have a list of what all they replaced?
  19. logray
    The 2008 engine shares the same basic design as the 2002-2005 996 engine (and even mostly the 1999-2001 engine) but there are many changes (for the better) to improve power, strength, and reliability. Still pretty much the same engine though. I'm guessing you are interested in horsepower/torque? 2001 300hp/258 ft-lbs 2008 S 355 hp/295 ft·lbs In 2009, Porsche went to a totally new DFI engine design, completely different from the 1998-2008 models.
  20. logray
    Before dropping a big parts order, I would check to make sure the gear selector wires have not fallen off the gear box. You mentioned a couple things... "slipping it into 2nd gear" and "unable to put the car in gear". Sometimes these can fall off causing unexplained shifting behavior. They can be tie wrapped to ensure they don't fall off again. Check out this thread regarding that problem: http://forums.rennli...alfunction.html That being said, if all of that looks fine and the slave cylinder is in working order (bled/no leaks) then perhaps it is time to drop the tranny. Generally you can find a clutch kit on ebay for less than $500 which includes the clutch disc, pressure plate, throwout bearing, and lube. Yes, if it hasn't been done before, it is good to do the AOS since it costs $100 and is easier to do when the transmission is out. The rear main seal (flywheel seal) can be done, but it does require a custom tool to install a new one properly. You can make your own tool. Generally speaking though if the RMS is not leaking then I wouldn't touch it, and it is not required to replace if you do not remove the flywheel. If you remove the flywheel the flywheel bolts must be replaced. The coolant tank can be done without removing the transmission, it has to go out through the top.
  21. logray
    #24 in the diagram perhaps? http://www.autoatlanta.com/porsche-parts/996-99-05/403-05.php P/N 99661702104 Here's a used one for $325. http://dcauto.gotdns...get=99661702104 edit: good call Loren, the above is for a cable operated C2... (C4 different part).
  22. logray
    Check out modulemaster.com. Maybe they can rebulid what you have.
  23. logray
    NP. D1 is for power windows IIRC, so it's probably unrelated.
  24. logray
    In watching these forums since 2006, yours is the first I've read about. Not saying that they haven't happened.
  25. logray
    If the crank is really moving that much and the crankshaft journals are rubbing (wearing) on bare steel (once the top layer of bearing is worn through) the crankshaft is likely toast as no-one has oversize bearings or thrust washers. A used crankshaft might set you back $2-3k. If the damage is beyond the crankshaft in the bearing carrier, you are looking at another couple grand. Complete engine tear down and rebuild (even without replacing bad parts) will set you back in the $14-18k range when done properly from a reputable source. So... unless you are into rebuilding engines, you are likely better off sourcing a used engine. It looks like you have a line on one over on rennlist which sounds like an excellent buy from a reputable source. Also, a few words on driving it until it blows up. 1.) It might be possible there could be collateral damage and the expense could be even greater replacing it after it blows up. 2.) Would you really want to be driving a time bomb knowing you might be stranded somewhere?
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