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logray

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Everything posted by logray

  1. logray
    Did you check their website to see if they are compatible?
  2. logray
    I'm not 100% positive on this but I believe the idea goes if the clutch disc is worn enough it won't be sticky enough to grab on from a 2nd or 3rd gear start... any slipping will be more noticeable. Sounds more like the 2nd gear pop out detent issue to me though if it comes out of 2nd so easily and the rest of the gears are OK... http://www.gboxweb.com/detent.html If it's just when cold, what type of gbox oil are you running, is it the proper level, and when was the last time it was changed?
  3. logray
    NGK BKR6EK edit: here is their part finder: http://www.ngksparkplugs.com/part_finder/car_truck_suv/results.asp?engineid=41274
  4. logray
    If the plug threads and torques correctly and you don't have the tick anymore I would say the head is OK, no need to have it re-threaded.
  5. logray
    Yes, you can use the fuel as long as it is unleaded Will it improve performance that is measurable, doubtful! Waste of money, but feel free to try a tank.
  6. logray
    That's not a lot of miles unless the clutch has been abused. Here's a write up on bleeding: http://www.pedrosgarage.com/Site_3/Bleed_the_Brakes_%26_Clutch.html
  7. logray
    Could be the slave cylinder needs to be bled. I would start with that first. After that the chatter could be due to worn clutch or flywheel. It doesn't sound like a boost spring problem in the pedal, otherwise you might notice that on the way down. How many miles on the clutch, car?
  8. logray
    You can do a muffler hack to get a lot more cowbell for your money. There's a guy that mods them for little money and a lot more sound. I've read the turbo is quieter in some respects. If you are after sound though, mod the heck out of it. I used to take runs with some buddies through tunnels near Malibu. With the full fabspeed kit, it was unbelievably loud and awesome.
  9. logray
    I tried some hotter iridium? plugs once and didn't notice any difference. I switched back to stock and didn't notice any difference. Latest plugs I'm using are NGK's and didn't notice any difference, they are two prong, but pretty inexpensive and compatible. I think the ECU just compensates for whatever you are running.
  10. logray
    If I remember right, there are some threads with sticky pedals where people have dismantled the accelerator pedal and put lubricant into the cable housing to fix this problem.
  11. logray
    Under car in the transmission tunnel. It's right near the bottom of the car, very easy to spot. Looks similar to a bicycle cable housing. As for adjustment though, I would comment that correct cable routing is more important than trying to twist or tweak the cable in some way. In this pic of my car, it's the cable that exits out the upper left hand portion of the screen and snakes down past the driveshaft and the blue clutch slave cylinder line and then into the body with it's own rubber grommet (near base of shell). You can see before it goes into the body there is one of the junction points for the cable. From there under the carpet to the accelerator. On a RHD car, it's probably on the opposite side.
  12. logray
    The junction is near the transmission, left hand side of car.
  13. logray
    The latest rear main seal is P/N 997 101 212 01. You need a special tool to seat the RMS correctly. You can buy a "genuine" tool from flat6innovations.com for $300: http://www.flat6innovations.com/shop/product.php?productid=16268&cat=268&page=1 or make your own RMS tool: http://reutterwerk.com/forums/showthread.php?t=18315 IMS bearing, use the tool kit available from LN Engineering. Good threads on the DIY here: http://forums.rennlist.com/rennforums/996-forum/549133-im-going-in-alone-lne-retrofit-bearing.html http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/Boxster_Tech/14-ENGINE-Intermediate_Shaft_Bearing/14-ENGINE-Intermediate_Shaft_Bearing.htm AIr oil seperator failure typically lots of white smoke out the exhaust, sometimes with CEL codes.
  14. logray
    I've read about several dedicated track cars who use a stickier clutch. There aren't a ton of track heads that hang out here... try rennlist.com. That being said for street driving I doubt you would notice the difference.
  15. logray
    AOS is the air oil separator, known to fail and dump oil down the intake. Rear main seal. Old style (original) seal known to leak, new PTFE seal does not leak. Clutches can last for 40k or 100k+ depending on how it's driven. There's a guy in a 986 on rennlist who has 250k on original clutch. If you want peace of mind instead of retrofitting the bearing you can install the IMS Guardian which is a monitoring system that will warn you before/if your IMS bearing fails (and monitors other modes of failure as well). There are only two upgrades for the IMS bearing. The LNE kit which is touted as the "best option". Pelican parts is releasing a kit soon that will be less expensive, but does need to be replaced more often. There is a tool to remove the bearing, there are lock tools to hold the cams down. There are other tools required to lock flywheel and crank in place. Some bearings are harder to remove and require a different bearing extractor, sometimes a dremel, and sometimes a new IMS tube.
  16. logray
    Here's the link to that 2.5L engine for sale: http://forums.rennlist.com/rennforums/boxster-and-boxster-s-986-forum/670319-boxster-2-5l-engine-for-sale-2500-obo.html And if you want something really fun, swap in a 3.6L upgraded 3.4L 996 engine... a little more expensive of an endeavor mind you. :) http://forums.rennlist.com/rennforums/8981023-post63.html
  17. logray
    Stay with the stock Sachs clutch, pressure plate, and throwout bearing. There are plenty of experts that warn going aftermarket (example light weight) is not a wise decision without other internal engine components being beefed up and a high quality engine balance, harmonic pulley, etc. You can buy a complete clutch kit on ebay for about $450 or less, dealer charges twice as much. The DIY is fairly straight forward, and about the most expensive tool you'd need is a transmission jack if you don't own one (example harbor freight for about $70). Most Indy repair shops will get you out the door for around $1500, whereas dealers are charging an extra grand on top of that. While "your in there" have the AOS replaced ($100 part), and if you buy into the IMS bearing debacle, have the LNE retrofit kit installed ($600 part).
  18. logray
    +1 to above comment. Also, it is safe to leave the bleeder valve locked up for a few days while driving around. You probably lost coolant when you had it up to temp with the cap removed, or somehow introduced air into the system.
  19. logray
    Sorry not sure about that model tip and if it has the same reverse sensor or if it is internal to the transmission, but the following thread might help (and perhaps a post in there with a question)...
  20. logray
    Assuming the particles are ferro-magnetic and from your IMS bearing... Best case you replace the IMS bearing with an LNE retrofit, install a magnetic drain plug or IMS Guardian, many oil changes, and be on your way. Worst case, engine tear down to replace/repair broken parts & properly clean IMS debris. There could be other reasons for small metal particles in the oil filter, it should be diagnosed properly. Anyways, these are all all good reasons to not run the car until it gets sorted. Your car is worth a lot more with a running engine than without. If you need it, someone was selling a 2.5 or 2.7 liter engine for $2500 on rennlist, granted it has a lot of miles but it runs and at a good price. Best of luck.
  21. logray
    Sure you can bolt on your cat bypass and it will be louder than hell. I wouldn't do it personally, O2 sensors are important to the life and performance of your engine. I've had aftermarket headers, 100 cell cats, and aftermarket mufflers and nearly went deaf. Yes it was fun for a while and I do miss that exotic sound, especially through tunnels... but would I do that again? I doubt it. On the straight pipes, it is REALLY loud. Like rally car loud. Bleeding ear drums loud. Not fun for your neighbors who will hear you from a mile down the road loud. If you are doing it just for fun occasionally, you could bolt them on, but I would think you would want to run stock more as a daily driver than the other way around.
  22. logray
    I wouldn't go catless (extremely loud, not smog legal). You can install 200 cell cats to get a much more exotic sound and still be smog legal, but not a whole lot of horsepower except perhaps the highest RPM range, in fact possibly to the detriment of power at the lower RPM range. Take a look at fabspeed's products for example. There are plenty out there. IMO ECU tunes on the NA car are only worth it if you dump $5 grand more on other upgrades including intake, headers, etc. There are plenty of tuners out there. Softronic, GIAC, FVD, etc. etc. etc. You could end up spending 5-6 grand in bolt on upgrades for 20 hp or 30 hp. On the NA car, the best way to increase power is to increase displacement, boring out to 3.6L or 3.8L ($10k-20k), along with performance camshafts and timing advance, which could net you 50HP more at the rear wheels, and also bullet proof your cylinders with Nikasil. I would steer clear of turbo and supercharging kits, at 10k or more. They are expensive and some say forced induction wasn't meant for the M96 platform (without other upgrades to increase engine reliability). Plus they aren't smog legal. All of that money above, if you saved it and spent it towards selling your NA car and buying a turbo would get you a lot more horsepower and a lot more car.
  23. logray
    Sorry to hear about this. Good thing though is you caught it before catastrophic meltdown!
  24. logray
    These are true words of wisdom!
  25. logray
    I normally run my oil about half way up between the low and full marks, a little more than that. If I run it full, I think it tends to burn off back down to the half way mark on it's own. Your mileage may vary though. Some p-cars tend to use more oil than others, and some have no trouble keeping the oil topped off (don't overfill). If you are going to add oil, add half of what you think you need, check it again, add a little more, etc., etc., etc. Yes I check when the oil is warm, and ample time for the oil to drain into the sump.
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