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logray

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Everything posted by logray

  1. logray
    Cool, hope that's what you are looking for (the parts diagrams are not always 100% clear).
  2. logray
    Can you post a you tube of it?
  3. logray
    Check out this thread. http://www.renntech....engine-sn-help/ His engine has the larger bearing that can't be replaced without complete engine tear down and sequence number of 66526, which is earlier than yours 66755. Both of which are greater than the sequence number range to 60000. M96/01AT66X66526 Chances are your engine has the larger 22mm bearing. However the only REAL way to tell is to look at it, with the transmission and flywheel removed. Having the newer bearing is not necessarily a bad thing, as its stronger than the single row in most 996 cars and about as strong as the original dual row bearing in the 1999 and 2000 models. Chances are good that it could last the lifetime of the car.
  4. logray
    2, 10, and 11 in that same diagram above.
  5. logray
    Ditto.
  6. logray
    If I remember right the speed sensor and pad wear wires use the same harness, or similar/close connection point. It's possible when you replaced the wear wire, the connection for the speed sensor was "fixed".
  7. logray
    If you replaced the pedal, then chances are the problem is in the throttle body or wiring.
  8. logray
    No problem, glad you got it sorted. Yeah, been through that a few times. :) It was much easier when I had the PST2... those short tests let you rip through the obd2 readiness checks without hardly any driving.
  9. logray
    65Y is a 2000 year engine, sequence number 06828. 2.7L 651 is a 2001 year engine, sequence number 104774 2.7L (actually one too many digits in the sequence IIRC). So basically it's the same engine, both use the same engine computer & wiring 7.2 DME. I can't see any reason why it wouldn't just drop in. I'm not aware of any changes to intake/exhaust/etc. that you mention, but I'm more well versed on 996 than 986..
  10. logray
    Cut it off with a razor blade and then replace it. Underneath is metal, so you won't damage anything (as long as you are cutting through the bleeder nozzle cap).
  11. logray
    Here, this one is good too: http://forums.rennlist.com/rennforums/993-forum/516122-the-official-porsche-993-obd-ii-test-drive.html In the very first post there is a good "how to image/diagram". It's pertinent to the 996 as well and the tests can be accomplished in a short amount of time.
  12. logray
    Look at this post auto-xr. Good info there plus two more links in that post you can look at with even more good info.
  13. logray
    If you remove the wheel, it should be stamped on the outside top edge of the hat.
  14. logray
    This will get you started, plenty of good info on this forum about this, spend a few minutes with search.
  15. logray
    If you drove 130 miles it should be ready, it's a no charge at smog shops if the computer isn't ready. Yes there is a faster way, with a PST2 or PIWIS you can run short tests. I can dig up some driving instructions to satisfy the readiness checks if you need them, but if you search around here they have been covered before. I doubt you'll need them though after having driven that distance.
  16. logray
    If you read through LNE's IMS web page they have recently updated it. On the single row engines (some 2000-2001 and all 2002-2004 cars) that have been retrofitted (and are apparently more prone to failure), have had 3 known documented retrofit kit failures. "It may be advisable to consider the IMS a service item, like a timing belt in many modern cars. Seeing that we started to see more MY05 engines with IMS failures in late 2009 as well as failures in MY06 (with revised 3rd gen bearing) in late 2010, that may suggest that bearing replacement (or inspection at bare minimum) should be considered as part of the normal maintenance every 4-5 years or 50-60k miles, maybe even sooner with the case of the single row bearing." http://www.lnengineering.com/ims.html
  17. logray
    The note in the Bentley manual applies to the fuel filter, not the fuel pump itself. And aside from that I would tend to disagree that anything is "lifetime". What is their lifetime designation, 100,000 miles? And what deviation from that have they tested? Nothing is "lifetime"... A fuel pump, lines, and system on any car can be tested for pressure and volume, and the original specs from 97-01 can be used. It most certainly does not need a PST2 or PIWIS to activate the fuel pump. You can jumper the fuel pump, or activate it with Durametric. If you are losing fuel pressure it could account for trouble starting, the need to press on the accelerator on cold start, and misfires. Perhaps once the pressure builds as the car warms, that issue goes away. For coil testing, check out this misfire troubleshooting guide, one of the pages shows how to ohm out the coils and other steps: http://www.renntech....attach_id=24613 Anyhow these are just ideas since it looks like you've already gone through a heap of troubleshooting.
  18. logray
    I'm not so sure I agree about that "must" comment... But if your engine has the larger 22mm bearing the engine must be torn down to retrofit (and according to LNE every 50,000 miles or so as it is being deemed a "service wear" item). Perhaps the IMS Guardian is a better alternative. As for whether or not yours has the bearing or not, 2005 engines are the first year those bearings started showing up, but some of that might depend on what month. If you post your engines serial number perhaps it could be decoded and compared with another engine's sequence number that does have the revised Porsche bearing. Aside from the above, the only certain way to determine bearing type is to remove the transmission and flywheel to inspect the IMS flange and center nut.
  19. logray
    Try peeling it off at an angle.
  20. logray
    Is it losing fuel pressure? Have you tested fuel pump for both volume and pressure? You can get a cheap a/c manifold test kit from harbor freight. It has the right gauge range and fitting for the fuel rails.
  21. logray
    You can also have them x-rayed. Perhaps they didn't go deep enough with the crack repair? Did they heat up the heads before pressure testing? Maybe find a used head? Check the bores for cracks. Maybe bad head gasket seal (were they resurfaced?, checked for warpage?)
  22. logray
    Parts 3 through 8 in the below diagram: http://www.autoatlanta.com/porsche-parts/9PA-07-08/001-05.php
  23. logray
    What work have you done so far to fix the intermix?
  24. logray
    Nice work!
  25. logray
    986 model years 2000 through 2002 share the same 7.2 DME, so they should just drop right in from a wiring perspective. That being said, to make sure, if you could post the engine serial numbers for BOTH engines, they can be decoded to make certain.
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