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logray

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Everything posted by logray

  1. logray
    LOL about the champ cars. :)
  2. logray
    I have a huge bin full of old screwdrivers I've collected over the years and found one that fits very snugly in the center stud. Your average "ye' olde' shade tree" might just pull out "screwdriver of size X" and put it in there and say "good enough". I can't emphasize enough how confident I felt while tightening this hardware. It offered very little play or resistance, and once the click stop wrench provided it's feedback, I knew that enough was enough, and cracked open an ice cold soda pop for celebration. I think you might have mentioned in an above post you would offer an allen/hex option instead of the slotted end of the center stud. An allen wrench would seem to make a whole lot more sense. And great idea on the two person job... I tried to keep the adapters to a minimum, it's just a crows foot and the torque wrench. No extensions, size adapters, etc. etc. to change the specs signifigantly enough (although a slight calculation for the green thread locker). As you pointed out the fit of the crasftsman socket to the fastener is more than superb and substantially adequate for the task at hand.
  3. logray
    Sounds normal. How long are you talking here? To test the thermostat, I like to remove it and boil it in a pot of water. Of course, that means you'll need to refill the cooling system, which is an entirely different story... :)
  4. logray
    A suggestion for your product. You might want to consider selling or suggesting a tool to use in order perform the center nut torque (aimed more at the DIY individual than a pro shop). I'm not sure why LNE doesn't do this, since they already make and sell a variety of specialty tools, and this is one job that I think warrants a special tool. OF course, professional shops will probably have thru hole socket set or perhaps the factory tool already. Granted your design uses the standard center locking bolt, for the LNE center nut which is 12 point, I used this tool a couple days ago on my engine build and it worked extremely well. As I posted above, it is just simply a hollowed out 3/8" drive 12 point deep socket. This way I can fit a variety of sizes of screwdrivers into the stud. The sides of the socket are flattened out to accept a crows foot, which can then be torqued using the inch pound torque wrench. I didn't have this tool the first go around at bearing installation and this second time I felt much more confident with the installation (oh and it helps that the engine is out of the car, much less cramped). (click to enlarge)
  5. logray
    Wow. Well a total guess would be thrust shims or something in the clutch/pressure plate/flywheel area. But, I wouldn't jump to conclusions or even entertain those above as an "estimate" without some more careful diagnosis. Car on a lift, ramp, or stands and reproducing the sound while underneath to better isolate the general area/source. Can you post a you tube of the sound?
  6. logray
    Try pausing a second or two in neutral before selecting second gear. You can also try selecting a different gear, third perhaps, and then into second before releasing the clutch.
  7. logray
    pretty sick
  8. logray
    It is much easier if you pull the weather shields back from the connectors up onto the wires in order to snap them back in to the coils. Then pull the weather shields back down. Spark plug R&R is also much easier when the mufflers are removed. Good work.
  9. logray
    19 ft lbs + 3.5 ft lbs on reinstall.
  10. logray
    I like the color! That was my second choice besides the arctic silver.
  11. logray
    There is a slot on the battery tray the battery slides into towards the drivers side. On the other side of the battery (psngr side) there is a gold bracket with a bolt that locks the battery in place, there are several holes depending on the battery group you purchased. If you don't have the gold bracket you should buy one, along with the bolt to hold the battery securley (regardless of any g-forces). Do you not have this gold/brass looking bracket? You should buy one right away, as a battery jarring lose and bumping against the hood or worse damaging the cabling is a serious fire hazard. The bracket are parts #9 and #10 as pictured in the digram within the link below. They can be purchased from your local Porsche dealer or any online Porsche parts retailer (check here for porsche parts at discount prices). http://www.autoatlanta.com/porsche-parts/996-99-05/902-05.php
  12. logray
    Yes locked up vertical is manual bleed (while car is cool). On the side (flat) is auto bleed (once the car warms up).
  13. logray
    Regarding the previous post, it sounds like his battery is OK. To make sure, have the car running when you attempt to use the regular hood release latch. Another thing to try again with the car running to make sure there is adequate voltage, try pressing the lock/unlock switch on the dash multiple times... perhaps the hood is locked.
  14. logray
    Aside from looking for the part number stamped on the units, I'm not sure how else you would accomplish this. High 99663520604 Low 99663520504
  15. logray
    Did you try using your key in the lock on the door? Option two might be to jimmy the latch mechanism by a locksmith/etc. Option three might be to remove the door card so you can access the latch mechansim.
  16. logray
    I appreciate it. The thanks and follow up is good enough for me... I work in an industry with little thanks given so this board and others are great for that. To the original poster, please let us know the outcome.
  17. logray
    Gotta love these two thread conversations. I still say pull your DTCs (check engine light trouble codes) before moving forward with any repair. Chances are it's something you unplugged or didn't connect right from the alternator removal and reinstall. I don't remember the resonance flap causing a steady CEL, but I guess it's possible. If you don't have a code reader you can go to most auto parts stores and have them read for free (autozone/pep boys/etc.).
  18. logray
    See the other thread for details:
  19. logray
    Yes that tube goes to the resonance flap. It's probably a really long tube right? That's the one that goes to the rear of the engine (front of car). From my above post: "In the diagram link below, the tubes you are talking about is #19, which goes into #21 (another hose) which then goes into the resonance flap: http://www.autoatlan...9-05/107-10.php" Yes the DIY link I posted has the procedure you need to remove the throttle body and t-plenum so you can reach behind the rear intake crossover and reconnect a new tube from the resonance flap to the change over valve in the position you indicate (hose/tube p/n 00004320501 qty 1) You might need a extendable mirror to see it.
  20. logray
    He's got a 2003 JFP so the actuators just pull right out of the cam cover. No need to remove the engine or pull the cam cover off... The solenoids/actuators themselves a few hundred bucks if I remember right and pretty simple unbolt bolt on procedure.
  21. logray
    If you are talking about exhaust manifold... This is a very easy job. If you know anyone that is even slightly mechanically inclined they can replace the gasket. Basically about 6 bolts and 3 nuts for the header and it pulls right off. The only thing I would ask is, if you have a leak, is it because the bolts are not tight enough, is one borken or rusted, exhaust leak? Depending on what's wrong the price to repair could vary from cheap to put a helicoil in (likely case) and new bolts all the way to very expensive to replace the head (servere case). The manifold bolts and the gasket themselves are only a few dollars each and probably set you back and hour or two of labor (unless it's severe). if you are talking about intake manifold gaskets (orings actually), this is a much more involved job, probably looking at 2-4 hours in the shop because it is so tight and difficult to work in the engine bay without removing the engine. Again the orings and bolts are inexpensive.
  22. logray
    What is the DTC? Check out this web page for how to access that area and for more info about those tubes, remove the throttle body, t-plenum/etc.: http://p-car.com/996/diy/sai/mainpage.html In the link below, one of the tubes you are talking about is #19, which goes into 21 which then goes into the resonance flap: http://www.autoatlanta.com/porsche-parts/996-99-05/107-10.php The other tube from that change over valve on that goes to the vacuum reserver is #29 or 30 in the below link. I'm pretty sure it's # 29, but it would be obvious which one it is once you have access to that area. http://www.autoatlanta.com/porsche-parts/996-99-05/108-05.php Still, I'm going based off some assumptions. Without seeing a picture of what you are describing, I'm just making assumptions. Since we don't have the trouble codes I'm guessing based on your description and work you were doing.
  23. logray
    There are two hoses from that change over valve. One goes into a fitting that connects to the vacuum reservior (below the drivers side intake plenum behind the alternator). The other hose from that valve goes into a small tube that enters the resonance flap which is in the intake cross over tube behind the T plenum/Throttle body. You can reach behind to the resonsance flap if you remove the throttle body and t-plenum. That might also allow access to get to the line that goes to the vacuum reservior, but you may also have to remove the alternator to gain access. I replied in your other post about the part number for the tube. Tubing. 00004320501, sold by the meter.
  24. logray
    You should post a pic for certain but it sounds like a tube for the SAI vacuum system, perhaps one of the change over valves for the fuel system. Assuming it is the very small tubing you describe, you can buy it in one meter lengths from a Porsche dealer, here is the part number. It is very inexpensive. 00004320501 Depending on which tube it is and where it goes to depends on what you need to do to replace it. There are literally half a dozen or more of these little tubes snaked all over the engine, some for the SAI, some for fuel, resonance flap, etc.
  25. logray
    A correction to an earlier post I made. The torque spec on the center lock nut is NOT 25 ft lbs. If using the LNE kit and instructions, do not exceed 24 ft lbs, but that doesn't mean TORQUE to 24 ft lbs. LNE recommends the FACTORY spec for torque. The factory spec is 8 ft. lbs when using the factory center stud tool. HOWEVER I've seen 10 and 12 ft lbs online as well (both without the factory tool).
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