logray

Good to hear, I've had my throttle body out many many times, and I must admit I've made the same mistake more than once. ;) Nice work.

If the bearing has play in it, you can retrofit and there wouldn't be a reason to rebuild the engine unless it wasn't running when the retrofit is to be performed (because of a failed bearing). That is a very good thing if you can catch an engine with a failing bearing before it actually fails. It is very well documented that many cars have been saved tremendous expense in this manner. In otherwords, no reason to rebuild the engine, rather just retrofit the bearing and the car is "good as new". Yes the design has changed multiple times. The latest design 2004/2005 IIRC is great, no leaks. But yes I would tend to agree that if the leak is not severe it is not too bad a problem to live with. Then there are cases that will chronically leak regardless of the RMS, but there are probaly very few of those still around. The IMS flange seal (triangle cap) is different from the IMS bearnig seal. The IMS flange seal prevents oil leaking out from the engine case into the bell housing (as can the RMS which is direclty above it). That seal has been updated from early year cars. The stock IMS bearing seal is inside the engine, Porsche has not updated this design, the only thing they've done is mess around with the size and strength of the bearing. The lack of lube inside the IMS bearing because it is sealed is a totally separate issue from the IMS flange seal allowing oil to leak outside of the engine. There have been documented cases of the center beraing support going poof, which is one of the reasons why you might want to consider retrofitting the bearing (which includes a stronger center bearing support). All the more reason to drop the engine with trans, especially if you have a tip C4... dropping the engine is not hugly complex, but it might double the labor over a simple C2 manual where you can just drop the transmission to do the work. GL

I believe the OP started a thread over on RL.com and one of the steps they went through was new plugs, and possibly swapping plugs between banks as well. I could be mixing him up with someone else though.

There is a good blurb on towing in your owners manual. Basically it involves a flat bed and using the tow hook eye from your tool kit. There is a scan of the owners manual towing excerpt floating around somewhere.

Any fresh codes since you replaced the battery? If it doesn't idle well, try cleaning the intake, throttle body, and idle air control valve. Also make sure there are no major intake leaks and you put all of the hoses and boots back together properly, the car will not idle well (or even at all) when there are intake leaks, especially if they are big. You may still need to get it on a smoke machine to find where the leaks are (as it's possible the AOS bellows was not the only cause).

You can use the Bosch part, it is the same one Porsche and Mercedes sells for 2-3x. Here it is for $80: http://www.rmeuropean.com/Part-Number/Camshaft-Position-Sensor-__0041536928_BOS_94E6B777.aspx On a 986, the bank 2 sensor is drivers side, it will be right behind the drivers seat atop the cylinder head right next to the cam cover. Once you get to the sensor, it is a simple unbolt/rebolt procedure, but I'm not sure how much extra stuff you have to rip out to get to it. On a 996, it is a pain since you have to remove the air conditioner compressor to get to the bolt that holds the cam sensor in place.

There should be absolutly no binding and they should glide like they are floating on thick jelly or jam. They should never rotate the crank. If it were me I would remove the rods, torque them on the bench (with fresh stock bolts since they are single use only). Then take a good set of measurements, all the big ends, and of the crank as well. On my engine I found .003" clearance to be average, never less than .0025" and never more than .0035". If you are signifigantly under or over that there is a problem to address. If everything looks good, reinstall the rods with NEW bolts again. If there is a problem during measurment, the rods will need to be machined (or replaced).

If you are using ARP rod bolts they need to be resized. Meaning, torqued out of engine, checked with bore gauge, then bored to proper size (resize). If you are using stock rod bolts you shouldn't have to do this, but I would still recommend measuring both the crank journals and the rod bores to make sure you don't have a bad con rod or journal. Also it is recommended to have the crankshaft and rods magnafluxed.

Hello Low battery could be one of the reasons why this might occur. One thing to check for might be the codes or pending codes from the alarm unit (requires Durametric, PST2, PIWIS), to see if it detects any faults in the system or see where the last alarm was triggered. Another possibility could be water damage to the alarm unit under the seat GL

I'm not sure where you are located, but in the USA and UK there are many many options aside from the local dealer, who offer much better pricing and availability than what I've read of most other places around the world. GL.

Congrats if you pull the trigger on the purchase. The 2009 engine has a TOTALLY different design. It is a DFI engine which DOES NOT have an IMS bearing. So 0 "worries" about an intermediate shaft bearing failure. if you are prone to worrying about such a thing. GL with the purchase and thanks for the post!

Hello, Yes there could be a large number of reasons, but these are the most common. I would start by removing and having the battery tested at an auto parts store (free). Then I would remove and have the alternator and starter tested at an auto parts store (free). If those things do not resolve the problem, likely candidates are either the ground strap from the body to engine <AND/OR> the positive battery cable that runs from the alternator to the starter to the positive jump point in the engine bay (which are both susceptible to corrosion). If you spend a little time with search all of these issues are well documented. Good luck! Keep us posted.

That's really unfortunate, I'm sorry to hear this. If only USA shippers had a better understanding of how to ship things. Or better yet, UPS would do this work on the behalf of the customer! As an interesting aside, I've spent considerable time researching this area of logistics, and it is somewhat "humerous" that USPS actually requires the same thing, but the trade agreement, nor are the tarrifs enforced as soon as Canada post accepts the item!!! AND fedex and DHL REQUIRE the SENDER to pay the fees up front! UPS is really doing a "diservice" to both the shipper and receiver by not being more up front about this!

What really made mine smoother, even though it is bad, was to remove the little brass pin, then twist the unit apart. At that point you can really clean it, inside and out. Then twist the magnet back onto the solenoid and then put the pin back in place. But if it doesn't pass the electrical tests, I would probably replace it (fyi, best price currently is autohausaz.com). NO affiliation.

It is a slippery uphill slope. I've been there done that with trying to get more out of an NA car. You'll spend thousands upon thousands of dollars for just a few HP and while you might get flashy parts or more sound, not a whole lot in the power dept (mabye 10-20 HP). In fact, a lot of times these parts cause problems and also change the torque curve to different areas in the RPM range. If you REALLY want more noticable power, the only REAL way to do it is to add more displacemnet (rebore) or forced induction (turbo/supercharge). The latter is not recommended, and both options are very expensive.

How are you looking to improve it? I'm guessing more power?

Also, can you check that your idle air control valve is clean and ohms out properly? Maybe because the long term trims are farily normal, your IACV is opening wider than it should due to a failed or failing open winding... Here's how to test it with a multimeter (last several posts):

The lower than normal vacuum reading could indicate a vacuum leak, air is entering the intake somewhere besides where you are measuring. Your short term fuel trims are nearly three times the limit indicating lean running near idle range. More than likely there is an intake leak, because the DME is enrichening the mixture due to the unmetered air entering the intake. I know we sound like a broken record, but...

The connectors on mine were corroded after 12 years, I replaced them.

I've heard stories of this happening. Just curious, on any of the paperwork did you see the NAFTA COO declaration exemption statement? I've tried including this with things (less than $1000) I've shipped to Canada, and was told by UPS CSRs it would reduce the fees signifigantly. "I hereby certify that the good covered by this shipment qualifies as an originating good for purposes of preferential tariff treatment under the NAFTA." from https://www.ups.com/...fta_origin.html "For purposes of obtaining preferential tariff treatment, this document must be completed legibly (print or type) and in full by the exporter and be in the possession of the importer at the time the declaration is made. This document may also be completed voluntarily by the producer for use by the exporter."

To the main wire harness, there is a (green?) wire all by itself covered with brown heat shrink and a similar brown connector. Right below here where your green arrow is. You'll see a big thick bunch of wires wrapped with felt like tape, and sticking out of the side will be a single wire, that is your wire. Here it is, hanging free to the left of the + cable box.

Green is a great color for a Porsche, looks great.

$2500 USD seems to be an average price for IMS retrofit along with RMS seal, and sometimes including a new clutch kit and AOS. The RMS itself is about $15 USD, and the time it takes to do is miniscule compared to the rest of the job, especially for a shop who already has the correct tool.

Interesting, well the 3.3 bar at idle is for a 996 with a FPR.

I thought it was more like... Engine not running 3.8. Engine running 3.3 (indicating functional FPR)