logray

Maybe try these guys? http://www.gboxweb.com

I want to say they are really inexpensive, I opted to replace mine. To clean them I think you would want to force hot oil through them somehow, not sure that compressed air is going to do it, nor blowing through them with your mouth..

The hoses & tubes for the aos & oil cooler that run on top of the drivers side intake plenum are surrounded by that velcro/heat shielding. Probably to protect them from chaffing more than heat. As the velcro deteriorates, they can fall off. Most people secure them back on with tie wraps. You can see here on the left side of the engine I have one yellow warp surrounding all of the hoses, which are in turn surrounded by that wrap you speak of. click to enlarge

If you know the fault codes and have read them out then no generally speaking clearing the cel with the battery is OK. But if you are blindly clearing the CEL to solve a problem without first reading the codes, you might erase valuable codes that could have helped you solve the problem. By clearing them, they are gone and you would have to wait for them to reoccur again. There are some "cheap readers" out there that don't clear, only read... so in those cases unplugging the battery is the way to go. You won't preserve the radio code when you unplug the battery, but thats farily easily solvable usually if you post your radio info in the radio fAQ here.

All the more reason to take the wheels off for a good cleaning then. ;)

Try putting you old sensor (s) back on? It could be you replcaed the sensors mistakenly, and perhaps the new ones aren't the right type (per Lorens recommendation) and/or when you connected them there was a problem with the wiring connection. O2 sensors are pretty robust...

LOL, last I checked the AUD was doing better than the USD...

The "shultz"? tire factory in auburn (near dry creek road) has a road force balancer, highly recommended!!!! They fixed the shimmy I had in my front end. After going to countless shops to try to fix this, I gave up and thought I had a bent rim (one of the shops told me so, which they were wrong). So I brought my wheels to Preciscion Wheel Works near downtown Sac who repairs wheels and when we spun them he found the rims were near perfect, but it was the tires that were so off. More rubber in a certain spot than most "run of the mill balancers" are used to seeing (over 2 ounces). Perhaps a manufacturing defect, but not too far out to balance. I did not want to pursue warranty because they were .5 32nd's out of warranty, and the prorated warranty amount would have been too little. The road force balance cured the wobble. Even at 80+ MPH the car just sails down the road pefectly smooth !!!! Look for a shop who has the latest and greatest road force balancer, and any shop will suffice, this is the best equipment currently. Here is the 9700 machine finder link: You want one that has "straight track LFM". http://www.gsp9700.c...findgsp9700.cfm That andjust as important as a balance is proper torque value, torque sequence, and air pressure and you should be good to go. If it is still wobbling after that and the above wasn't done right or you also need an alignment.

The tensioners in the USA are between $65 and $100 USD each, there are three of them.

Sumflow, I think you must have bought stock in Dawn soap. LOL. ;) Looks good (BTW in the future good idea to cover alternator before washing).

Nice work.

Hi there! Check out this thread, I think it has all the answers for you: http://www.renntech....t-safe-to-drive Also ensure the plugs you bought were of the correct type and if they required gapping, the gap was set properly. This looks suspect to me and matches why codes were thrown (but be careful because Porsche doesn't use short term fuel trim, you will see these numbers do not match up if you read the TRA (RKAT) from a durametric/pst2: Fuel Trim Bank 1 Short Term(%): -3.125 Fuel Trim Bank 2 Short Term(%): -7.812

Seriously, I think it would be a good idea. Considering there are services already to drive other peoples cars home once they have had too much to drink, I don't think this is too far off that.

Sounds like an interesting business opportunity, drive other peoples exotic sports cars that should be driven rather than locked away in storage.

Do not use -55 or -56 (one with external spring). They are designed only for the non-roller (hyvo) type chains. The reason why Porsche moved to the hyvo chains was apparently to reduce chain noise. There's nothing wrong with the old roller chains (in fact I tend to believe they are stronger, even if they make more noise). You should ONLY use the -54 (supersceded to -57) tensioner. Unless you have torn your engine apart and replaced all of the components per the TSB referenced above then you can use -55 or -56. There have been reports of people trying the -55 or -56 tensioner with the roller style chains and having problems with that combination. You should not attempt that combintation since other people have already tried it without success. If you read the TSB it clearly spells out the -55 (supersceded by -56) is only applicable to the updated hyvo chain. The -54 (supersceded by -57) is only applicable to the roller chain in your engine. I have the -57 in my 100% rebuilt roller chain engine and it makes absolutley no startup noise whatsoever. You will see that -56 is NOT superceded by -57. 996-105-180-56 is still orderable today (and not replaced by a different part). In fact, -54 was still orderable up until a few months back when I ordered mine (the confusion in that thread was because I managed to order it before it was inserted into PET, it was a very new part number when I ordered it).

Search is your friend!

They're all good cars... you read about the bad stuff on the Internet... just drive, rev it up, enjoy, and maintain it properly.

I wouldn't be too concerned about leaks due to lack of use. Leaks would be the least of my concern in fact. By running it once per month the oil will have a signifigant amount of time to leak down from various internal parts and increase the potential for harmful startup wear. Additionally becasuse the oil is not brought to temperature often enough, there is a chance that more condensation will form inside the crankcase, reducing the useable life of the oil, meaning you should change it more frequently, perhaps even as often as every 6 drives (every 6 months), instead of once per year. Especially in Florida. The best thing you can do for it is drive it more frequently than once per month. I definately agree with the previous poster, once per week should be minimum, and get it up to temperature & then get the RPMs up.

Nice work, thanks for the follow up!

Another test:

Hi, this one for the 986 is nearly identical procedure (and that link you provided above works for me). http://www.pelicanpa...RANS-Clutch.htm

One thing I discovered is the electronic sensor seems to be more punctual after I replaced it. Now it seems to match the dipstick much more closley and is also more "on time". I still always use the dipstick for the most accurate measurement. Yes definately wait minimum 30 minutes before checking oil level. I like to check it when the engine is hot, then let it sit for 30 minutes. I think the owners manual says 20 minutes. This takes into account oil expansion due to heat, and also figures in ample drain time back into the sump.

Is the coolant level in the coolant reservior (left side engine bay) low? If coolant is pooling in the crevasses on top of the engine, the coolant could be leaking from the oil cooler, oil cooler line, tiptronic coolant lines, or the AOS coolant lines. They are all on top of the engine and would explain why coolant is pooling on top of your engine. To get at these areas at the rear of the engine without removing the engine you have to remove the intake from the top, and in some cases the alternator and/or air conditioning compressor. Search for DIYs on AOS and oil cooler for more details. Still, before diving into any of that I would try to get a better sense of generally where the coolant is leaking from. With a good flash light or light and the car on stands (or even on the ground) you should be able to better pinpoint where the coolant is flowing from. Do wear protective googles as coolant is extremely toxic and could cause blindness. You could run the engine very very briefly to see where it might be flowing from. But do not run the engine long enough to get it up to temperature or create a hazardous material cleanup situation, poison or injure yourself, or anyone near you. Do not run the engine any longer than required to diagnose the leak. Do not operate the vehicle until you can resolve the leak, as low coolant level spells disaster, overheating, and serious permanent engine damage (not to mention bad for the environment). To get a little bit more room from the top, you can safely lower the engine down on the engine mounts until you can no longer see the threads (loosen the mount nuts until the threads at the bottom of the mount studs are hidden by the nut). If you do this, always support the engine safely and correctly from underneath to prevent a big mistake.

>>(the water is drippinng out the bottom approximately where the gearbox meets the main engine block)<< Right above that area there is a line to the oil cooler which carries the coolant over to the expansion tank (drivers side UK, then the line crosses over to the passenger side). Could be the coolant lines going to/from the AOS, at the rear of the engine (passenger side UK). Could be the exapansion tank leaking and the coolant is travelling rearwards somehow. Can you take some pictures for us? Even if from the under side it would help better pinpoint where it's likely coming from.

For me, to work around the compressor lines and engine temp sensor, a wobble or flex socket adapter does the trick. Coupled with the right size socket (can't be too deep or too fat). What has worked well on that rear bolt is a small 1/4" drive 13mm socket (not too fat or too deep, but fits snugly onto the bolt and pretty much butts up right against the A/C lines), plugged into a 1/4" flex socket, plugged into a 3/8" adapter, plugged into a 3/8" extension and finnally into the wrench poking out just above the intake.