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logray

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Everything posted by logray

  1. logray
    +1. Hopefully it's just something simple like an accessory and not inside the engine. Don't run it anymore, have it diagnosed.
  2. logray
    What a coincidence because today my 99' 996 HVAC started acting up. It's been flawless since I've owned the car, but with the summer coming up I need to fix it fast! It blows "warm" air even at "Lo". And the air con is no where near as cold as it once was. I am thinking I have an opposite problem than yours though, perhaps heater core flap or mix flap is stuck or frozen. I haven't had time to research it yet though
  3. logray
    :) :) :)
  4. logray
    The bottom piece you refer to is part of the dash frame, you won't be able to get that off unless the radio is out. :) Just pull harder, the radio will slide out. Once you put the keys in far enough they will engage the releas eand then you just pull.
  5. logray
    In PET, for the 3.6L 2002-2004 head parts list, they do list the tubes, orings, & grease... even though they are not pictured.
  6. logray
    If it's a brief whirring noise, that noise is the fuel pump.
  7. logray
    Ahhh cool... I knew it was around 2002/2003 ish when they changed over, but wasn't certain of the exact year.
  8. logray
    2002 MY spark tubes?
  9. logray
    After you get that cover pryed up (you can use a butter knife wrapped in t-shirt to protect trim)... If it's the standard knob without set screw, don't smack yourself in the chin or face when you are pulling it up. It does take a little bit of force to remove it. The ones with the set screw seem to be easier to pull off, once you loosen the screw.
  10. logray
    IIRC it just pops off. What is the exact year and model of your car, perhaps someone can lookup the correct P/N for you.
  11. logray
    I've used anti sieze on a few motors and have never had issues with them backing out. When JFP says a very small amount, he's not kidding. We're talking really really small amount. For what it's worth, I haven't used anti sieze on the Porsche. And to the previous post, I'm not sure what the shop time is but I bet 2 hours is pretty close to book time. It's really not difficult, especially if you remove the mufflers first which is also very very simple if you know how to use a wrench.. Yes there are several write ups. I'm not sure about you tubes but you should try to search.
  12. logray
    Impressive!
  13. logray
    This may sound crazy, but try tightening ever so slightly and then loosen. Sometimes tightening breaks the hold/loctite/stretch and then you can loosen. Only do this is if you are CERTAIN the bit is the right size and is fully seated in the fastener. There is also risk of stripping or breaking the bolt if it is already too tight. It sounds though like you are in a situation where you need the right tool. I noticed on my car it took considerable force to snap one of the bolts free, and it made a noticeable pop when the bolt freed. The plastic keys I have felt and looked like they were on the verge of breaking, but it has always done this job for me (about 6 times). I've dismantled the tool I have for another purpose and lost some of the hardware to keep it together, so unfortunately my "official tool" is otherwise broken and needs repair. This is the tool I've used (or similar, with keys that are long enough): http://www.harborfreight.com/7-pc-star-tamper-proof-key-set-97471.html You can use the steering wheel to counter the force. Also you can fit a cheater bar over the tool if you need to (big long section of PVC).
  14. logray
    OH gosh. Wow. That looks safe. Yes you are correct about venting the vapor back to the combustion chamber, from what I understand. A couple things I don't like messing with. There's no good reason someone did that. 1.) fuel and fuel vapor and air conditioning gas. Does the vent line or connector look damaged at all? If so, maybe a good idea to replace that (and maybe the hose too???) Do you have the DIY for the level sender (I think the fuel pump DIY here or maybe on Pelican has it). Once you have the new sender in it has to be calibrated with a PST2 or PIWIS (something I need to do as well once I can afford a new sender).
  15. logray
    Doh! Sorry I misread. :) The TPS wire would run with the rest of the DME harness, which is behind the passenger seat and then directly into the engine bay.
  16. logray
    At a shop you would probably pay ~$15 per plug and then at most 2 hours labor. There are alternative plugs for example from NGK that cost half or even less than half of that. If you've changed a plug on any car though, this one is really not any more difficult. 1 clamp and 2 or 3 bolts for the muffler. 2 bolts for the heat shield. 2 bolts per coil pack and 1 connector. A spark plug socket and various extensions/wobble sockets for the plugs Be sure to have the coil packs inspected for cracks.
  17. logray
    The fuel sender line is under pressure when the pump is running. I'm not sure if the 996TT has a return line, some of the older NA car have a return line as well. On most cars, there is also the vacuum line from the intake manifold for EVAP compliance. It would be a good idea to repair the broken connection and check for leaks before assembling everything again. You DON'T want fuel spraying all over the place..
  18. logray
    Do a search on teaching, training, or retraining the sunroof. The procedures are here somewhere. It's something you have to do every once and a while, such as resetting the battery. It involves holding down the buttons for a while and following a certain procedure.
  19. logray
    Wow, great work. Congrats. I've been inside both of those units before and it is certainly no cake walk.
  20. logray
    Curious to see how this works as I've wanted to try the larger tank myself (because it's cheaper). Do tell! I'm nursing a tank leak with some 2-part epoxy.
  21. logray
    I've dealt with their commercial email servers and blocking before, they can be a pain. Even after setting up sender ID, RDNS records, etc. they would still reject emails, most of the time based on volume. The only other company that is worse in this regard is/was AOL. This is why I don't use my hotmail account for email any longer (it's been dormant for at least 10 or 15 years). ;)
  22. logray
    Ballast DIY:
  23. logray
    I also use the G12... if you get deep into it there are many types of G12, +, ++, etc...
  24. logray
    I bought a Laso and it started leaking after 200 miles. Not worth the savings, considering if your water pump blows up your engine could be toast.
  25. logray
    I think you could do the LNE option responsibly for 8-10k as a DIY, but closer to the 10k mark. Remember there are also many custom tools you either have to purchase, rent, or fabricate.
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