logray

+1 to previous post.

Just clamp or plug off that hose and run it for a short while. I've done that before on that exact same hose to eliminate possible sources for leaks. The valve nearest the engine won't start clicking over until the engine is hot anyways, and a little excess vapour in the fuel tank is not a ticking time bomb if you are responsible about it. Logically you can move forward depending on whether the code reappears or not.

Just make sure you have the right tool for the job. Actron or Harbor Freight have the right kit, spend a littlte time with the search.

The read on wiki about lamda is pretty useful...

Yes, if the bearing you are using allows installing the lock ring or spiro lock once the bearing is pressed or driven in.

You can do it with the engine running. I've done it this way many times without problem.

I've used beru, bosch, and ngk without any problems for many years.

Try doing the full learn and teach procedure with the car running. Follow it step by step exactly, it's always solved this problem for me.

You could also just add distilled water and save the expense of the coolant. Especially so in Flordia.

You can custom bend the ultimates to fit a wide variety of sizes.

Ultimates stay out of the way unless you have a really tall drink. Of course not an issue without a passenger.

I have both of my ultimate cup holders on the psngr side. I've used them for about 5 years now. Stuff never tips out of them and I have a lowered car. If there is a drink in there and it spills it does so on the floor mat, which I can then just spray with carpet cleaner and scrub. It helps that I have black floor mats. As opposed to hot or cold sticky fluid spilling out all over my dash, shifter, or center console (and electronics). Oh and some of the in dash holders block vents, which is another negative.

I'm not a chemist, nor do I own a shop. The cooling system holds appx 6.5 gallons (832 ounces) of 50% anti freeze and 50% water. Most of the windshield fluid is water, probably 75% or more and the rest is anti freeze (methanol, ethelyne glycol, etc.). So let's say 1 or 2 ounces of potentially incompatible anti freeze. 2 ounces of incompatible antifreeze from the windshield fluid is 0.25% of the entire system's capacity. The rest of it is water which is fully compatible. If you mix the wrong type of ethelene glycol with the OAT type anti freeze used in Porshces it can cause gelling which can clog up the system and cause problems. Personally,. I wouldn't sweat the 2 ounces, but when you get back I would drive it somewhere and have it flushed (use only Porsche compatible coolant). That being said, I bet you could probably go without the flush and be fine too. Check the consistency of the coolant and if you see any floating matter in it, it will need to be flushed out.

I went for www.ultimatecupholders.com 's product I looked at retrofitting the factory option, but who wants a tall frosty soda up that high where it can easily tip and spill all over the place?

Noisy (underperforming) tensioners could just be old and worn and needing replacement. They could also just be dirty and take a little while to "pump up". The early cars have roller chains which are much noiser on startup than their hyvo chain counterparts starting around 2001 ish MY. I doubt the tensioners or chains would be the source of the metal flakes however. Certainly have the IMS flange cover removed by a professional according to procedures and inspect the IMS bearing for play and wear. I wouldn't worry too much, since you are catching the problem early on chances are you won't have a problem if you address it properly. Still though, it would be good to see pictures of just how much metal we are talking about as to what steps you should take next.

car-part.com :)

Interesting thread. Since it's going all over the place I suppose I'll add my two cents too and hopefully it will help someone. ;) Recently my car started blowing warm air through the vents even on Lo, and as the car warmed up the air became warmer, but never hot (outside air temp 68F). With the A/C on the air would cool down somewhat and the air con system appeared to be engaging fine, but was not the artic chill I am normally accustomed to. Out of the possiiblities discovered during the search, I suspected either a flap, compartment temp sensor, or A/C charge issue to look at first (car is 1999 MY). I started with the compartment temp sensor. After removing the psngr side vent, I found that the compartment sensor and micro fan was completely caked in dust. I cleaned it with compressed air and electric parts cleaner, then shot a tiny amount of silicone spray into the fan, then reassembled. Much quieter now! Next I moved to the hot/cold flap under the middle of the dash. I checked the actuation of the flap from Lo to Hi and saw that it was moving just fine. I did notice the piece that attaches to the flap was moving up and down as the arm moved, instead of just swiveling. I removed the actuating arm from the swivel piece and noticed that the flap fully open and fully close positions were different from the max positions of the motor. I pushed the swivel piece into the flap more securely (It seemed to have dropped down somewhat) and also rotated it left and right several more times to feel the open/close position. I'm not sure what happened at this point, perhaps some of the flap's foam broke off, but for some reason the max and min positions for the flap suddenly went to a state that agreed with the actuating motor (about a 1/2" difference before after). I reattached the arm to the motor and tested. The problem was fixed! No more warm air on Lo, the heater was working fine, as was the A/C. One thing to note the hot/cold flap motor seemed to move about 3 or 4 very very small "ticks" more after fully hot or fully cold was selected. It would also move a tick or two towards hot on "Lo" and A/C on. Not sure if that is normal, but the system seems to be working fine... for now! BTW I have all of the diagnostic tools to read the flap position and compartment temp sensor, but ended up not needing them. Also concerning some interesting conversation earlier in this thread... for the record a busted head gasket is NOT something one would consider here as a culprit. The head gaskets on the M96 engine are made of multi layer steel and are pretty much one of the strongest things on the car, and HG failures are not only very uncommon but almost unheard of for these cars...

The story of replacing the bearing with a factory unit doesn't make sense. On a 1997 boxster with a dual row bearing, this is not possible without complete engine tear down. The OEM bearing is not sourcable directly from Porsche, you have to purhcase the entire IMS tube. Secondly, it has an internal sprio-lock, and once you remove the dual row bearing it cannot be used again. Perhaps he just had the IMS flange and/or flange seal replaced. There are many sources of metal in the engine aside from the IMS bearing. I wouldn't jump to conclusions there.

Unfortunately this is not an easy fix. Passenger side: remove the air conditining compressor, remove the sensor, replace the o-ring, reinstall the sensor & A/C compressor. Drivers side: unbolt the AOS so it can be moved out of the way (does not have to be removed), remove the sensor, replace the o-ring, reinstall the sensor & AOS. Use a very small amount of tire grease on the new o-rings.

Put some bait and traps around the area. Pests are no fun to deal with.

Read the orig post. Sounds like glendora mtn road or around there. Great great fun but very dangerous.

Went to my first DE a couple weeks ago. It was the most fun ive had in a long time for such little money. Im hooked.

Yes leave well enough alone, i'm sure it's fine. I've torqued the p-car prob as much as 25ft lbs and never a problem. You would know if you had a problem if you stripped a thread. Then the head would have to come off. !!!!! :) If you look at the instructions for the plugs it actually has a degree angle measurement you are supposed to follow, and how accurate do you think that is? (actually more accurate if you have a degree angle measurement device, but I think most people just say "aaaahhhhh good enough") I do the plugs in my boat by feel and I've never had a problem.

Regardless of type of shift knob... You need to pry the bottom trim (horseshoe piece) off of the center console. It just snaps off (use a trim pry bar or as I pointed out earlier a butter knife with a t-shirt wrapped around the end). Then to determine whether you have a set screw just peel the leather up (i.e. just lift the bottom trim up until it stops - it will cover the knob and you'll see the bottom part of the knob (the lever). You'll see more of the shift knob and can see if it has a screw or not. When you pull the leather up over the shifter if you don't see a set screw then just push the leather back down then grab the knob and pull up (with a little twisting action). If you have a set screw, then just loosen the screw off (not completely) and then push the leather & trim back down, grab the knob and pull up. Generally the fatter knobs have a screw, and the thinner ones don't, but it's so easy to check just do it... there's no reason not to check before proceeding and it's pretty blatantly obvious once you pull the trim off and up over the knob (it won't come off completely because it's stitched and glued on just below the top part of the knob).

Once you get the radio out you'll find out. :) As suggested earlier you can also pry off the trim to the left and right of the radio cage (those big leather triangle pieces where your calf rubs up against). They just pry off from the back, grab with your hand and pull out towards the door.