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logray

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Everything posted by logray

  1. logray
    The actual angles show the amount of variable lift at the moment, which changes depending on rpm and driving conditions. It is normal to fluctuate. Cam deviation (degrees + or - mechanically ofset from crank TDC) should not deviate. Read about variable cam timing here:
  2. logray
    I believe F6I was talking about developing some, however I doubt that will happen or has happened. Generally speaking, if you need oversized bearings you should be instead looking at replacing the crankshaft & rods (and possibly bearing carrier).
  3. logray
    To keep it from freezing... :)
  4. logray
    AOS is the air oil seperator (search). If the water pump is bad generally it will leak, but it is also possible for the blades to disintegrate, typically either situation will come with other symptoms including leaks, unusual noises, or overheating. None of which are good things. Be sure to buy the latest cap with the -04 part number. The cracking tanks is an issue primarily with older cars, the plastic has either worn and is brittle or could be due to a defect.
  5. logray
    If you are near a harbor freight their A/C manifold tester kit works fine for this purpose as well. Around $50 as well. Includes all the right fittings.
  6. logray
    On my rebuild 3.6L 99' 996 I can break the rears free in first and chirp it in second... and these are fresh tires. With a 06 and more power from the S, I'm not surprised. There is so much torque there, it is very powerful... even though the HP figures are not "that high". Yes rears are replaced about every 10-20k (or less depending on how you drive it). If the rubber is old and hard you will have less traction.
  7. logray
    If you are getting the pauses or inconsistent behavior from the cloned drive, chances are the drive parameters are not set properly in the BIOS. You can actually use any size IDE drive (which are still hard to come by), as long as you properly set the LBA, SPT, CYL, HEADS, etc. for the new drive in the BIOS... did that a few times with my KTS500.
  8. logray
    IIRC the connector at top of screen is for emissions diagnostics, it should remain unplugged.
  9. logray
    Interesting. The original 996 WSM says 680 RPM +/- 20 (3.4L) Whereas the original 986 WSM says 740 RPM +/- 40 Also where are you getting the 620 and 1100 RPM from, is that from a code scanner such as Durametric which can read the actual RPM? I wouldn't trust to give exact figures by looking at the needle on the gauge, although it is pretty close.
  10. logray
    Good catch RFM on the rpm, I missed that. I don't think it is abnormally high though, I have read some C4S and 997 cars will idle at or just above 1000 rpm on cold start, and then return to 680ish. For a 987 I am not sure what the specs are but IIRC the 986 cars might have slightly higher hot and cold idle settings than the 996/997. I guess it would be good to see what the factory idle set points are for the 987 before jumping to conclusions.
  11. logray
    Read this thread and all of your questions will be answered.
  12. logray
    This all sounds normal to me. The judder is probably motor mounts or the DMF springs. Also normal, unless your mounts are shot. The gear problems is somewhat normal, however if you have fresh gear oil which is the CORRECT type it should be less noticable unless it is very cold. Shifting into second and then into first helps. Also pause slightly longer between gears when the gear oil is cold. These things will help. Welcome to a p-car!
  13. logray
    A battery in good condition and electrical system also in condition will surley not drain a battery in 3 weeks. The longest I've had my car sit with an older battery in good condition is about 1 month and it did start, albeit it was a slow start. This was without a battery maintainer. I would bet if you take the car out on a few good long drives before you store it for 3 weeks it will fire right up and you won't have to bother with anything.
  14. logray
    Thanks JFP, beat me to it. :)
  15. logray
    The A/C clutch was engaging, which from what I understand if there is not enough gas in the system it might not engage. And then see this post for my solution: Curious what the original poster found out, if anything.
  16. logray
    When you unplug the valve you can test it immediately to see if it is leaking. Either by smoke machine, propane, combination manifold vaccum gauge, etc.
  17. logray
    Every engine has a buffer zone, I'm sure you are well below that given your procedure. Could be condensation, could be the procedure, perhaps not enough drain down time. Oil does expand when it's hot. You could just remove the oil filter and drain a portion of a quart and then reinstall... simple and you don't have to drain all the oil. Personally I would take it for a good trashing, get it good and hot, then let it sit for about 30 minutes, and then read the oil level again. What you see there determines your next course of action. Whether you do nothing or you remove the oil filter and drain a small portion of oil. Too bad your car does not have a dipstick.
  18. logray
    Nice work
  19. logray
    Yes you have the HVAC in the same slot I do, right above the batwing. I don't remember anything interfering with it sliding in, but you got it in and I guess that's what's important. :)
  20. logray
    If the needle is at zero though, wouldn't it be the water temp sensor in the coolant guide housing (right behind cats on right hand side of engine below the A/C pulley).
  21. logray
    Regarding the climate control position, I can't remember if it was designed to fit in the lowest slot (do you mean where the batwing is?) It should slide easily in the slot above that (middle lower slot). That's where mine is. I didn't have to do any mods. Regarding the EQ (DSP) removal: look here and here http://forums.rennlist.com/rennforums/boxster-and-boxster-s-986-forum/374579-dsp-removal.html http://986forum.com/forums/general-discussions/12931-dsp-removal.html
  22. logray
    You can clamp the hose with any standard auto hose clamp. I would only clamp it long enough to validate it is not the source of an intake leak. Or you can also just unplug the check valve's electrical connector, it should be normally closed and hold vacuum. If it does not, then the check valve should be replaced.
  23. logray
    If you've eliminated vacuum leaks and the stock box doesn't fix it, other possibilities are: DME (just experienced this one). IACV (been there done that).
  24. logray
    That looks like a fresh crate engine from Porsche, certainly they are for sale.... only $15,000 ! What a bargain.
  25. logray
    Do yourself a favor and throw away your old bolts. You don't want to install stretched or heat cycled hardware back in your engine. Porsche specifically recommends to replace many of these bolts every time the engine is rebuilt and I wouldn't want to take the chance of a builder re-using my old bolts, so don't even give them to him. ESPECIALLY fasteners such as rod bolts, flywheel bolts, main bolts, and head bolts. They are single use ONLY! If you want re-usable fasteners the only ones you should consider are aftermarket from ARP. In fact, there's not a whole lot of these types of small parts you want to re-use in the engine rebuild. The total cost on them is not substantial compared to the entire rebuild. Many of the parts are less than a dollar each. For example things you should replace: Ramps, chains, bearings, seals, washers, orings, gaskets, screws, bolts, nuts, lifters, valve seals, actuators, tensioners, plugs, oil jets, swirl pots, baffles, tubes, scavenge pumps, etc. Consider replacing the valve guides and valve springs. I recommend purchasing R&R rods, they cost about $1400.
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