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logray

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Everything posted by logray

  1. logray
    If memory serves me correctly, at cold start a stock USA ECU flash will do the following: 1. Run a combination of previuosly learned/pre-programmed fuel trims until the O2 sensors heat up. Once the 02 sensor heats up the DME uses the lambda readings to adjust fuel trims (and a few other inputs as well, MAF, IAT, etc.). 2. Run the secondary air injection system for a period of time (typically 90 seconds, but a slightly more complex algo is used). 3. Take mechancial timing readings from both cam sensors to alter ignition timing (does this all the time, and on RoW just uses 1 sensor and infers the position of the other). A stock ROW ECU flash does not do items 2 and 3. A mangled/hacked ECU, well... there's no telling what sort of monster you're trying to create/run, but if the idea is you don't want to run cats, personally I would just run a stock RoW flash. However, in California I would not be able to SMOG the car without cats or with an RoW flash. Anyways, doom and gloom aside, assuming their flash is OK, I would be looking at your fuel trims to see how they might be contributing to cold start item #1. Without the cat component you are also altering the dynamics of the pump, i.e. reducing backpressure, and that could also result in some low speed/low RPM strangeness.
  2. logray
    Here is the slack tube method... http://www.renntech.org/forums/tutorials/article/255-an-inexpensive-way-to-test-for-a-bad-aos/
  3. logray
    Having done a lot of tamering with DMEs myself. I can tell you that in nearly all cases, unless you want a race car and drive at WOT all the time... the stock MAP and stock cats are best for daily driving (or some drivers events). Typical reports of problems of ECU and intake/exhaust mods (and my own experience) is that you trade off low speed driveabilty for a few more percent of high speed/high RPM performance... not worth it IMO.
  4. logray
    Are you sure this is the complete sn? Having hard time decoding it. Maybe take wire brush to the sn plate, cleqn it, and take a pic. Want to make sure if you have the larger stronger unserviceable ims bearing before you tear into it. Pm me if someone or I do not respond right away.
  5. logray
    http://www.tirerack.com/accessories/detail.jsp?ID=38 While it isn't intended to make tires sound quieter or ride smoother, Continental Tire's ContiComfortKit is capable of comfortably sealing typical tire punctures making it possible for you to complete the drive home, to work, an important appointment or a tire repair facility. The ContiComfortKit carries Germany's TUV approval and is suitable for use with passenger car tires, including run-flat designs, as long as the vehicle's recommended tire pressure does not exceed 43 psi (3.0 bar) and the tire dimension is within the recommended application range.
  6. logray
    Good work. I was going to say you need to drop the tranny again. Just about 110% of the time when you hear noises in that area, except for the rare slave cylinder case.
  7. logray
    i went overboard too along with the entire dash I resolderd the seat memory and sunroof LEDs with blue. It's helps the interior is metropol blue and matches my pioneer HU.
  8. logray
    IIRC it's 3 or 4. Be careful when using aftermarket cables, be sure it is of very high quality. For example you want to use something that is solid core/less wire count than something which has fewer cores and more wires. The terminations must be crimped/soldered correctly. An improperly crimped connection (for example if you don't use a real crimper or insufficient/excessive crimping that can cause excessive resistance and worsen whatever problem you might be trying to solve, even causing damage to regulators/etc). Similarly, a DIY cable end that is not also soldered will provide less reliability than one that is. For these reasons, it is recommended to use the OEM cables which come in the correct gauge, length, and termination. They are also inexpensive when you factor in the proper tools and supplies required to make your own cables using the above recommendations.
  9. logray
    Was there anything wrong with the donor engine or did you find a "second hand" block out there? Interesting...
  10. logray
    Try a breakers/wreckers yard. This is what I did on my 996 and found a cracked headlamp which cost very little, then I salvaged the harness out of it.
  11. logray
    Reworked engines just mean they "went back to machine shop" to be made within spec, and were found to be in spec once work was complete. Sometimes it can mean a factory "rebuilt" engine as well, depending on the year (example many M96-01 engines were remanu'ed in 05). In those cases yes it can actually be more reliable, for example if the original engine had a single row IMS bearing and then was upgraded to the larger non serviceable IMS bearing with load rating similar to the original dual row. If you post your full serial we can help decode it.
  12. logray
    Likely the case was reworked. Also check for blue paint on the case, it means the same thing.
  13. logray
    C4 has the hump just the same as the TT. Also check all the fuses related to fuel, I would be curious if power is getting to fuel tank (for level sender and fuel pump).
  14. logray
    Yes, definitely just replace the suspect one...
  15. logray
    I have not seen a good tutorial on tiptronic removal, but I'm sure there is one somewhere. Here is one for the manual: http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/Porsche-996-997-Carrera/37-TRANS-Transmission_Removal/37-TRANS-Transmission_Removal.htm Again, from my understanding if you have a Z.F. model transmission it can be removed separate from the engine with just a few more steps. If yours is a Mercedes trans, then as far as I know, both the engine and transmission have to come out. For filling the transmission it is important that the correct procedures are followed: http://www.renntech.org/forums/topic/6203-tiptronic-transmission-service
  16. logray
    NP gator.. ;) BTW if you ever want to get rid of that wing...
  17. logray
    I recommend staying with Bosch.
  18. logray
    The manager at an Autozone told me the Duralast AGM was basically the same as the Optima... haven't had time to validate that, YMMV. Maybe he was just talking about the glass mat portion.
  19. logray
    If I understand what you are asking, the early 996 ZF trans could come out without removing the engine, but with the later MB tip trans the engine must come out too. For someone experienced, it only adds a couple hours to the process to remove both units. Then it is very simple to access the bolts. I've had my manual gearbox in and out of my car at least half a dozen times, and the next time I do it, the engine will come out. It is just so much easier when you are on jackstands to get everything out from underneath the car. If I had a lift/ramp.... different story.
  20. logray
    I bought genuine Bosch replacements directly from amazon.com for between $50-$70 each...
  21. logray
    My personal fav, the GT2 wing. From: http://forums.rennlist.com/rennforums/9160915-post20.html
  22. logray
    I always thought this was related to very dusty/sandy environments where you wouldn't need to worry about water drainage. Or maybe I am thinking of a different airbox component.
  23. logray
    There was a business I used www.porscheleds.com, but it looks like they are gone... perhaps there is documentation somewhere on how to do this.
  24. logray
    I'm actually running Bridgestone RE050a's up front and Michelin PS2's in back. The difference of load rating was noticeable during the last drivers event and drifting was inviting, but I still managed to place #5 overall. I'm saving up for a brand new set of Toyo R888's. That would be interesting if Costco keeps honoring a "perpetual" tire warranty, basically I can go through a set in 10,000 miles, but if they keep replacing them.... hmmmm...
  25. logray
    At the end of the insertion tube there is a sleeve that is separate from the tube. The sleeve is the piece where you put in the clip. The sleeve can get stuck in the hole (because it is not attached to the insertion tube), and this tool was the easiest way I could find to extract it.
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