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If you follow generic car "obd test drive" procedures I've found the re-learn process is MUCH faster than driving around randomly for a couple hundred miles to accomplish the same thing. The DME has certain conditions to set before it starts behaving like normal. Search official porsche obd test drive on google or something like that.

+1 check your lines. The AOS is a fiddly bit with lots of nasty tenticles. There is the hard piece that slips into the 1-3 case side. There is the "rubber bellows" that goes into the 1-3 head. There is the passenger side top exit coolant hose which goes to the small coolant passage cover on the 1-3 case side via a plastic union. Then the rear exit top coolant hose which goes into the small drivers side rear "small" coolant hose (going from bottom of coolant reservior to heater core loop and water pump). Then you have the case vents, with orings and hard plastic lines, one going to the plenum behind the throttle body. Another going to the breather on top of the 4-6 head. whew. Did I get it all? ;)

Yep, those diagrams don't always make a ton of sense.

If the dual mass flywheel is toast, you can get all sorts of strange noises and clunks, thuds, etc. Unfortunately typically if it is anything more than the flywheel causing these problems you are looking at big $$$$ for motor or transmission repair. It might be possible your slave cylinder is slow or needs to be bled. But my guess would be flywheel. There is a flywheel inspection procedure when the clutch is replaced, and in addition, it is usually customary to replace the flywheel when the clutch is done at such high mileage and under "spirited" driving conditions. These are just guesses though, and in the hands of an experienced mechanic who is actually looking at or experiencing the problem might provide an alternate diagnosis.

Just keep an eye on the engine oil level and temp and you will be fine.

A word of advice. Do not start the engine again until you have the codes per Loren's recommendation. Also, if you could provide any more details it might help with a possible next course of action.

It's possible your engine just needs more fuel for whatever reason. Maybe tired fuel injectors or something. I think you might be past the problem point and are just in the hyper sensitive over analyzing stage... just drive it... check the trims again in a hundred miles or so and report back, I wouldn't worry. PM me if I'm not around since I've been really busy as of late.

How many miles do you have since the last adaption reset? I've seen it can take hundreds of miles. Warm air intake, like a fabspeed or evoX or K&N where the filter element just sits inside the engine bay.

Hi! It's #13 in this diagram: http://www.autoatlanta.com/porsche-parts/996-99-05/104-00.php

+1, still very happy with my setup and after 3000 miles it's still running like a champ!

If you reset the battery it will go back to default, and the adaptation will start all over again so that doesn't get you anywhere unless you've made a repair and want to see if your repair affects the fuel trims. The short term trims adjust more quickly, and if they go towards negative it shoudl pull the long term trims down over time as well. These trims do change based on driving conditions. You appear to be running lean - not quite to the adaption limit - but still a little high. The engine computer is having to add more fuel to compensate for the additional unmetered air coming into the system, i.e. intake air leak (or perhaps you have a warm air intake???)

Sorry to hear this. The head gaskets on these cars simply do not fail. They are multi layer steel. For the AOS to have caused this - because it does have coolant running through it, - the inner chamber would need to crack or split, and then the intake vacuum enough to pull that coolant into the intake. Sounds unlikely to me, but probably worth checking.

Try to bend the corner tabs on the new frame where the contact is made, I had to adjust my new frame very slightly as well and is now perfect.

If you put in too much coolant it can spill out the overflow tube and onto the hot exhaust or engine. This is why it is always important to try and account for how much coolant comes out of the car during work so you know approximately how much to put back in. Yes there is a special manual bleeding procedure in the workshop manual, and it is somewhat complex if you don't have a vacuum fill tool (such as the uview 55000). I have this tool and have used it countless times. It is well worth the money. edit: if the coolant level is low before starting, or even as just as a good thing to do regardless (part of the WSM procedure)... with a cold engine, run it at idle for several minutes and keep pouring in fluid into the reservior until the level doesn't drop any longer. Then install the cap. Dont let it warm up too much otherwise the coolant will start overflowing. Don't overfill. When you install the cap make sure the threads are on straight and the cap is tight. Without a vacuum fill tool, I've found the best way to get the air pockets out is to put a gallon of premixed coolant and water in your trunk. Then be prepared to drive somewhere and sit for a long time. I don't recommend just idling the car in your driveway because that won't accomplish anything. Before driving off, make sure the coolant level is at the max mark and the manual bleed valve is open. And of course, you want to ensure there are no leaks in the system otherwise you will be adding coolant forever. Turn the heater on high and the blower on low. Drive the car from cold up until operating temperature. Once at op temp, check the coolant level. DO NOT OPEN THE CAP. If it is still OK, then the next part should clear out the air in the system. If the coolant level is NOT OK at this point and is very low, allow the car to cool down (an hour or two) so you can open up the cap and add more coolant so it's up to the safe zone (then repeat the above driving procedure). If the coolant level was OK once you were at op temp, start the car again and make sure it is still at operating temp. Find a little used portion of road and open up the throttle. 2 to 3 quick blips up to 6,000 RPM should be enough to clear out the air. Let the car cool down again, then remove the cap and top it off up to the max mark. As long as there are no leaks you should be OK. Keep the gallon in your trunk just in case and watch it very carefully over the next several days. This is why the manual procedure sucks, there is a great risk of overheating and causing major damage to your $15,000 engine.

Certainly an interesting set of codes. The starter spinning freely could be a caues for concern, hopefully it is just the bendix.

The engine and trans will last, well about as long as they will last. I wouldn't be concerned driving it 1000 miles. I'm sure you would accumulate that many over the course of regular driving. Crusing on the highway is much less stressful on a car than start/stop day to day driving. There are 986 owners with close to 250-300k miles on original engine.

Sounds like it could be the DMF spring action. Did they replace the flywheel when the clutch job was done?

Manual gearbox oil smells like rotten eggs.

True that!

I think the problem is taking off the clear without damaging the weave. Sounds impossible to me.

I've talked to people who work on carbon fiber bikes with a heavy clear coat on them. Pretty much if the clear coat is separating or the carbon fiber cracked, the only solution is to sand down to something you can adhere new mat to and then build up and re-spray. In the end, I think it would be cheaper to just replace the part.

If you have "the touch", just do it by feel like Loren says, it will be fine, just check for leaks afterwards.

Sadly, I think he has other plans than keeping his P-car around.... :(

Yes it uses the same pump. It is basically the same engine as M96. There are some units available with a more metal like impeller, however it is not recommended to use those because if the shaft separates or metal breaks, then the metal might eat into the engine case rendering the whole motor useless... whereas the "plastic composite" impeller will not damage the case... in the later case the system just flushed pump replaced and you're back on your way. I wouldn't call pump failure a chronic issue though (many of these issues are "hyped up" on the Internet), the pump in my 99 C2 was just fine when I pulled it out after 70,000 miles of use and 11 years soaking in the same coolant that was put in by the factory.

Hello, these are well covered topics here. The extra portion on the h20 pump gasket is for the coolant guide housing. There is no need to replace that piece unless you drop the motor. You can just cut it off and replace the water pump portion. As for the coolant, some say "lifetime", however IMO lifetime can be defined as 5 years. That being said, if your coolant is older and still passes PH and hydrometer tests, and looks clean perhaps it can last longer without adverse affects. I found on my car after mixing a little of the compatible prestone after 2 years and 10 years on the car the head gasket sealant material started to separate and float around the cooling system. For a good read on compatible coolants look here: http://www.pedrosgarage.com/Site_5/Coolant_Antifreeze.html If you drain ALL 6+ gallons of coolant out of the car, in my opinion you can use whatever coolant you want, but if you mix incompatible coolant types it is a very very bad thing. The coolant can turn to gel and cause major problems.