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logray

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Everything posted by logray

  1. logray
    A 1999 C4 car has a dual row bearing. It can be retrofitted in car by just removing the transmission, then extracting the bearing and driving the new one in (follow procedures). It is not elligible for the IMS solution (solid bearing) because that solution is only for the single row bearing cars. Technically it could be retrofit to the IMS solution if you want to have the entire engine torn apart and many parts replaced, however they are saying the dual row retrofit kit is sufficiently strong, and the occurrence of dual row failures is quite low compared with the single row bearings.
  2. logray
    83K on a flywheel is a lot of miles. If the flywheel surface is really worn out, your new clutch may not last as long. Resurfacing dual mass flywheels is not something most shops will do. That being said, if the flywheel springs check out and the surface is not terrible then I can't see why you couldn't keep using it (aside from the new clutch disc not lasting as long).
  3. logray
    Say about 2 hours trans in, 2 hours trans out, 1 hour replace clutch parts, new clutch kit retail $700-800 (450 ebay). 5 hours @ say $125 hr yes 1500 is in ballpark. If they've done IMS before sure have that done too, especially if yours is a single row car.
  4. logray
    Ok, first thing, very easy to check, is there any brake fluid in the reservoir (frunk)? Otherwise.... I would guess 1.) you have air in the brake/clutch system, 2.) your slave cylinder failed, or 3.) you have failed clutch parts (transmission has to be removed and parts replaced).
  5. logray
    Does it seem like it is trying to crank or does it just sit there and lights flicker and stuff.
  6. logray
    +1 on the helicoil... then it will last forever no matter how many times you remove it.
  7. logray
    Corrosion on that cable is a "common" issue. I had it on mine as well. Porsche later updated this cable to a much thicker design. It is important that the bolts holding those cables are tightened down properly as well, as a loose cable can have a similar affect that corrosion does. When that cable is so badly corroded or improperly torqued, it causes the alternator and and starter to work much harder, thus diminishing their useable lifespan (rapidly). If the generator and stater were not removed and bench tested, you should have those tests performed. Most parts stores, for example Napa auto, have sophisticated machines that can bench test them and give you a printout with lots of statistics including Pass/Fail on many different aspects. It might also be possible you have multiple problems going on, and the next two items I would check (including the above) are the body to engine ground strap and secondly the health of the battery.
  8. logray
    If a battery is so low that it needs that much water it is probably already gone or won't last much longer. If a battery's plates are exposed to air, it is only a short matter of time before crystalline sulfates form in prohibitively detrimental quantities.
  9. logray
    Yes it is a PITA to rip out the radiators and heater core. But once you do (assuming the engine is out) all of the hoses have an open end. So you can simply force air through the end of every hose and all of the coolant will drain out of them without worry of damaging anything. I did this, and drained every drop of water out of the car. It turned out to be over 6 gallons, but I can't remember the exact figure off hand. If you have intermix (which I didn't), at this point you can flush to your hearts content, force a huge amount of water and cleaner through the hard and soft pipes. Or just replace the soft pipes since they are cheap. The hard pipes on the other hand are probably more expensive (not to mention difficult to replace). That being said, I like your method! I guess at low enough pressure it would be safe enough.
  10. logray
    When i had the car totally apart I collected maybe a half gallon more than 6 gal. Maybe 99 MY is different?
  11. logray
    Did anyone mention there's actually more than 6 gal? :)
  12. logray
    I've got about -1.2 deg rear camber and I notice fairly even wear, that's interesting people would report more inside wear... For pressure I run 31/36psi track, 35/42psi road. Achieved 30mpg with the road setup.
  13. logray
    Yes, the 4-6 piston clip insertion sucks. http://forums.rennlist.com/rennforums/996-forum/672370-engine-rebuild-part-3-the-finale-5.html This is the hole get to work through (the rear most cylinder is the hardest)...
  14. logray
    I've had my eyeball on the Jr. for a while, it was part of the original guardian thread on rennlist. I will probably buy one.
  15. logray
    +1 on above post, the best way to address a rebuild is without question LN Engineering. However, if you are going stock for rings, try www.porscheoemparts.com or sunsetporsche.com. However, good luck "honing" Lokasil to bed those new rings!!! LOL. For compatible lifters, look at this post: http://forums.rennlist.com/rennforums/996-forum/623466-lifter-noise.html
  16. logray
    Nice work!
  17. logray
    Heh, awesome, I like the color. Not a bad price for a roller, plus the cost of the rebuild you are ahead of the game... I've often fantasized about buying these cars, fixing em' up and flipping them, but there is very little margin for error and not a ton of profit to be had unless you could crank them out fast.
  18. logray
    Yeah no worries... I wasn't pointing fingers, just thought it was kinda funny since there were so many great contributors to the success of your project... your wife deserves a pat on the back too.
  19. logray
    LOL that this was selected as the best answer (read post#104) . :) I think the thread is full of best answers. :) :) :) :) Loren, can you mark the whole thread as a best answer? Anyhow, awesome news.
  20. logray
    Sweet, post a pic or two, if you don't mind.
  21. logray
    I'm not sure if your generic OBD2 scan tool can read the post-cat O2 sensors, but the readings you got are likely pre-cat sensors.Although, at this point focus on the pre-cat reading of -4V and -6V which is way off.Again, I would not use the ebay version unless it is genuine Bosch. It could be providing the bad reading.For a 99 model year car, I bought my Bosch sensors on Amazon here (they are identical to the Porsche version):Pre cat: $72.24http://www.amazon.com/Bosch-13564-Oxygen-Sensor-Fitment/dp/B000BZG6WAPost cat: $77.82http://www.amazon.com/Bosch-13723-Oxygen-Sensor-Fitment/dp/B000BZG79C
  22. logray
    If the $39 one is not Bosch and is not an original sensor throw it in the trash. Do you still have the old one laying around?
  23. logray
    thanks RFM, typing fast, corrected my initial paragraph...
  24. logray
    I certainly hope this is it... you certainly have had your fair share of issues to weed out.... Actuator, gasket, and now an O2 sensor (and I'm pretty certain you would have eventually run into the same issue I did with undersized fuel injectors)... Good to look at data then ask questions, then replace... I think that was pointed out early on, otherwise you are just "swapping parts".
  25. logray
    O2 sensors are the same pre/post cat, but the stock parts have different length wires (can't remember if connector is the same). If you want plug and play stick with the right part numbers pre and post, the Bosch equivelant cost about the same. Otherwise you might have some re-wiring to do when using aftemarket versions. The one that is most important is the pre cat sensor, this is what the ECU uses to adjust ratio. The post one is just monitored to see if the cat is in good health. A bad cat should show similar numbers for both pre/post cat. (edit corrections for accuracy based on RFM's post) Member Mike F has a great write up here: https://sites.google.com/site/mikefocke2/oxygensensors Is that a typo -41.6? Do you mean -4.16??? Double digit voltage during idle running is way out of spec (read, faulty), and in fact that might be the smoking gun unless there is a serious, read, huge problem getting fuel to bank 1. I would think seeing -41.6V O2 and 26.6 LTFT should throw a code for system too lean on most cars. IIRC 25 is the threshold. These figures were taken with the engine running correct? Was it warm? You did reset the ECU after the most recent engine install right? Bank 2 looks a little more normal, and slightly rich which makes sense with the 3.8L injectors on a 3.4L map. So where is the imbalance? I'm guessing bad data at this point. Try swapping the O2 sensors between banks or replace the pre cat sensor on bank 1.
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