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Yes those are both coolant hoses going to the AOS. The Aos itself can also crack.

Please delete post. Mistake

That sounds like a leak coming from the AOS, and I think you mean rear of engine. The front of the engine points towards the back of the car (it's installed "backwards"). "after the pipes pass through the cross member and then rise into the engine" If you are speaking of the hard pipes, the connection from hard to soft are in the rear corners (rear of car) in the engine bay.

The 80 AH Moll Part number 58035 battery is Porsche Part Number 99961108020 (the last two digits vary slightly based on series)The 70 AH Moll Part number 57069 battery is Porsche Part Number 99961107020 (the last two digits vary slightly based on series)According to the Moll application list available here:http://www.moll-batterien.de/downloads/MOLL_Lieferprogramm_en.pdfPart number 58035 provides 640 CCA @ -18C/-0.4FPart number 57069 provides 570 CCA @ -18C/-0.4F

Actually, according to one bearing retrofit company, the center stud is merely there to draw and set the tube at the correct depth. It can fail, although is not as common compared with ball bearing (wear and then) failure. In fact, that company does not sell a redesigned center stud, they use the factory center stud with their bearing retrofit kit. The flange and ball bearings take the chain tension load, not the center stud. This is why the solid bearing design provided by the IMS solution made by LNE seems to me the ultimate end all be all of this problem. Once you have a solid bearing on both ends of the tube, the only reason why it might fail at that point is oil starvation (or I suppose metal fatigue/mfg defect)... although it is a new product, that is the theory behind it at least. I have not removed the A/C pulley, sorry I can't help there.

As you know the crankshaft drives the IMS tube by chain, and in turn the IMS tube drives the camshaft rotation by chain. The reason why there is play around the IMS tube is because it is literally "floating" below the oil scraper. If you hadn't released tension on the chains then you would not have been able to move the tube. At the front of the engine the IMS tube is held in place by a traditional solid bearing inside the coolant/oil pump guide housing, the tube also drives the oil pump. On the other end the tube is held by the flange that you replaced. This is why it is critical the flange is installed correctly, the IMS bearing is installed at the correct depth into the tube, the center stud is installed correctly inside the bearing, and the correct torque is applied to the center nut.

I agree with Doug that it is sad for the competent DIY'er. But I would also hate to see innovation hampered by negative press from bad installations (regardless of who is responsible for the fault). This is why I'm happy for their decision and think it is the wise business choice, even though it sucks that now I have to pay someone in the middle to work on my car (which I am usually very hesitant to do). I don't even like handing my keys to the SMOG tech. At least if they are forcing us to pay for professional services, I can chose walk away if the installer and manufacturer does not agree to be 100% accountable for their work.

Nice looking car. I've experienced the same thing. When the engine heats up the DME retards fuel and spark, and eventually when it gets too hot it will do enough of this to noticeably impact performance. You can see this on a dyno where on successive runs, by the 3rd, 4th, 5th runs when the engine heats up enough, the power will be down versus the runs when it was in the "goldi locks" zone earlier. I've found the best way to combat this is to keep the car in that zone. A few inexpensive ways to ensure the car stays cool are to: Drive faster. Below about 50mph the radiators don't perform as well. Clean your radiators. Install a high speed fan switch. When it does start to heat up, don't wait for the DME to "realize" the oil is at 230F before switching on, and turn them on proactively. If you drive in hot climates use a heavier weight oil, say perhaps a 5w50. Install a 160 degree thermostat Somewhat imprecisely I've noticed my car performs best when looking at the temp gauge: the needle is at the line below the 180 to roughly straight up and down (oil/coolant between 170-200). Above that HP starts to drop. Below that zone you should drive conservatively until it is warmed up to within that zone. Of course, I am focusing on one aspect assuming there are no problems and all components are working as designed. It is also possible there is an actual problem with your car and once the O2 sensors heat up and the DME is adjusting accordingly, the settings it is using would otherwise make a perfectly working car run sub-optimally. A scan tool such as Durametric and a trained mechanic can interpret various readings and determine if there is a real problem that needs to be addressed. Some simple tune up tips that keep the car running well. Use a bottle of fuel system cleaner once in a while. Use a quality fuel such as Chevron or Shell. Clean the throttle body periodically. Ensure the air filter is clean. Understand that working on the car without knowing what you're doing can introduce more problems.

Charles, I am glad you have decided to only sell to Pro's who will then carry out installs!

If you are looking for brand new and not the top of the line I hear the Konis are descent. If you want performance go for Bilstien / H&R coilovers. Stock is also good if you aren't tracking the car. If you are on a tight budget there should be some reasonably low mileage units floating around from people who have upgraded their suspension as I've seen them from time to time.

Cold oil/fluid doesn't flow very well and can leave deposits behind. Try draining your gear oil when it is 38F. It will take days to drain out. The reason why we warm it up is so it drains faster, easier, more completely, and with less sludge behind. A good ft. lb to NM calculator: http://onlineconversion.com/torque.htm If you use the LNE BIgfoot drain plug, use the specification on this page (19ft lb): http://www.lnengineering.com/drainplug.html If you use the stock aluminum plug, use the specification on the workshop manual/owners manual. The two drain plugs have different hardness and thus require different application of torque to provide a good seal. The Bigfoot plug can have a tendancy to strip the threads on the sump plate because the metal is much harder than the stock cast piece.

You should only be adding 1 quart per roughly 700 miles according to the owners manual (at the very most, and even that is too much if you ask me). Anything more than that and you have some serious leaks that need to be fixed. If you lost 1 quart of oil that quickly and there isn't a big puddle of oil underneath the car, I would check the condition of your coolant. Does it look like a chocolate milkshake? If so, search for intermix. The only way you can tell if the IMS flange seal is leaking or if it is the RMS leaking is to remove the transmission and flywheel. Generally, if you do both of those things you'll want to just pay the expense to have the IMS bearing retrofit and RMS replaced. If you've already had the IMS bearing retrofit and the flange seal is still leaking, then the flange cover needs to be redone/resealed, preferably with a little flange sealant this time around. If the clutch and parts gets contaminated with lots of oil that could explain the strange noises you are hearing.

I've used the brass barbed hose repair kits very temporarily and they don't leak when coupled with quality worm clamps, but JFP is right, just replace the hose. http://www.renntech.org/forums/topic/40226-little-water-pipe-near-throttle-body/ Very cheap and no reason not to just replace the hose though. The hose repair kit should be a "out in the desert stranded local garage only has a hose repair kit" to get you home option. If you damaged the small hose I wouldn't consider patching that since it's so small.

The 4-6 bank 2 tensioner has an allen/hex head and a flat top, unlike the other two tensioners. (12MM IIRC?) It is right under the power steering pipe in your picture.

1. You can leave the bank 2 tensioner in (most people do). You should be fine to proceed. As long as : The engine is pinned at TDC Both sets of cams are locked The bank 1 and IMS tensioners are removed If you find it impossible to insert the new flange afterwards, then you'll need to remove the third tensioner as well. 2. Yes you can remove just the three compressor bolts and it comes right out, then you can access the third tensioner. The rear compressor bolt is easier to access when you remove the throttle body and T-plenum behind it. Then reach around with your left hand so you can feel where the socket goes in from the top between the intake plenum.

You can use a crow bar and piece of wood (against the alternator & case) to gently coax the alternator out. The thin hard plastic tubing you broke is probably for the SAI changeover valve that controls the resonance flap. You can buy new tubing and a rubber splice/joiner from most auto parts stores. Or Porsche sells new stuff. Don't leave that open because it will be an intake air leak and your resonance flap will not work. P 1. That is a coolant line that runs to the AOS. 2. That is coolant. Q 1. You can patch it using a hose repair kit from home depot and some high quality stainless worm clamps, but I recommend replacing the hose, these are all inexpensive items. I'm not sure which items you broke (breaking the plastic joiner is common), so here are the three parts. Use high quality stainless worm style clamps. 996 106 224 51 long hose996 106 226 52 plastic joiner996 106 223 52 short hose 2. Yes it is coolant. You can top it off using distilled water, only top off when engine is cool. Be sure the cap goes on securely. Raise the bleeder valve on top of the coolant tank and drive around like that for a few days. Then move it back to the normal position.

The LNE unit is billet alluminum IIRC (harder), while the stock part is probably cast (softer). Porsche has an optional steel? plug too if I remember right.

I have not seen that one (other than some older 911's I've worked on). The one from LNE works great for me. http://www.pelicanparts.com/cgi-bin/smart/more_info.cgi?pn=900-219-009-30-M835

Craftsman has an excellent stripped bolt/nut "removal" kit available (bolt out). Saved me many times. Worst case you can drop the oil pan (not that hard) and take it to a machine shop, they'll have it out in a jiff. Resealing the oil pan is not that hard, but you do need to use drei bond from Porsche and use it very very sparingly.

The M1 5w50 I get at any Napa auto parts in California carries the following ratings (meets or exceeds): ACEA A3/B3, A3/B4 API SN, SM, SL Porsche A40 MB 229.1/229.3 VW 501.01/505.00 BMW High Perf Diesel Oil Lexus LFA Service Fill I am liking it way better than the Castrol 10w40 or 5w50 product when it gets hot. And no way would I ever use M1 0w40 P.S. better hurry, I think there is a $5.99/qt promotion on M1 right now at Napa auto parts ends 3/31/13. (cheaper than autozone and pep boys promotions here locally)

I have no arguments that the point on the engine case you use to jack is totally sturdy but the few times I've tried that I cringe a little. I guess I would much rather damage the cross member than cause a stress fracture or otherwise on my engine case when I'm lifting 1500+ pounds of car using the engine (and I suppose I would be more concerned about the "flimsy" engine carrier than I would be the mounts). But I totally agree that point is very solid, held by 25+ small case bolts and very high grade and large transmission bell housing/head bolts, etc.

Good post kgoertz. +1

Good advice. Mobil 1 5w50 is a good product, and I am loving the way it preforms when it gets hot. The only downside is the weight spread means you might have to change it a little more often. From http://www.lnengineering.com/oil.html

Well said JFP

You might want to consider resetting your DME so it will relearn all fuel adaption. Simply disconnect battery for 5 minutes. Adaption takes a good 2-3 drive cycles and typically minimum of 20 miles. If the performance is good again after battery reset then slowly gets worse you have more problems to solve, and typically those are related to an air intake leak. Also clean the throttle body, plenum, replace air filter. You can clean the MAF, but be careful only use CRC MAF cleaner or similar and follow directions. You don't want to introduce any air intake leaks when doing this maintenance. If your AOS was really bad and it was smoking you need to give the car a good thrashing to "clean everything out" of the system. It can't hurt to use a bottle of techron or similar fuel injector cleaner in your next tank, and use a premium fuel like Chevron or Shell 91 octane. I can't recall the MY on your car but yes if the fuel filter is original, it can't hurt to replace and is not difficult. Later model cars have fuel filter integrated in fuel pump.