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Thanks for the advice on the tensioners. Ah-hem. <clears throat>. I hope I didn't just royally screw up here, and need to retime after removing only the 2 tensioners followed by the ims cover. 3rd tensioner? Where would that be located? I removed the one accessible under drivers side facing downwards and the second one on the opposite side near the oil filter, which I had to losen a clamp for a hose to get to. Yikes.

The ims bearing... looks and feels to be in tact, although there appears to be some play around the outside of the tube outside the bearing (normal?), and some oil certainly making it's way through the bearing... Tensioners pulled. The passenger side did not "pop out" when I removed it like the drivers side did. Drivers side Passenger side

First of all thank you to everyone that has posted excellent information about this repair (shark attack over on rennlist, wayne @ pelican, etc.). I've wrenched on cars since my first VW and found this to be of a great help to be able to read other peoples experiences. It made getting this far a snap. Started working on the car yesterday and have the trans out and flywheel off. I ordered a bearing kit from LN. I'm also going to replace the RMS and fix a pesky AOS leak while I'm in here. The jury is still out on the revised chain tensioners. Later today the oil gets drained, then the chain tensioners pulled, and lastly the IMS hub flange removed to reveal the bearing. Any opinions on the clutch (35k) and original flywheel (70k miles)? I'm contemplating a new DMFW to rule out another component for an engine that wobbles a little (mostly noticable at idle), but then at the total bill, what's a new clutch cost anyways... The flywhel snaps back into place after rotating either way per the TSB and the clutch looks like there is still some wear left on the pads, but I'm certainly no expert! The IMS will be replaced one way or the other... The RMS will also be replaced. Flywheel condition look ok? It has 70k miles. Just some sandpaper and good for another 30k? The clutch still has some pad left, about 35k on it. The pressure plate looks a little worn. I replaced the AOS a while back and need to get back in there with new factory clamps and a new bellows. There is also a leaking hose at the top of the unit I will replace. Everyone seems to have white crud in this cavity, apparently due to the area not being sealed to water and the elements.

Hello! I removed my 996 C2 Manual '99 USA transmission today and one of the bolts (#4 in the WSM pictured below) was slightly stripped before I got in there and I had to use a bolt-out to get it off. I don't want to put it back in for obvious reasons, but it looks like previous owners have done the same. Any ideas of the part number? I can't seem to find it in the PET. Closest I could come up with is 900 378 076 09 which is also a M10 x 50 (I measured it) for the other side... However, the head on #4 is an internal 12 point triple flange style and the head on 900 378 076 09 (#6) bolt is hexagon, guessing this is because of the tight clearance a standard hexagon bolt would not work?, and perhaps standard torx would not provide enough strain support at proper torque/bolt size? Thanks in advance.

Makes sense now, thank you!

Hello! Anyone know of a good machine or indy shop in the Sacramento Area that can help pressing in a new mount in my 99' manual 996 C2 tranny? I'm going to try a local machine shop first, in Auburn - Riebes and see if they will do the work. After that I was hoping to talk to an indy shop that might point me in the right direction. Avoiding the stealer in Rocklin at all costs... Thanks in advance! (c4 trans shown, but same mount for c2)

Since you've done this before, can you help me with the procedure? I have a replacement DME and a PST2. I have all of the codes for my VIN and current DME. I have the VIN for the replacement DME, but no codes. I haven't tried programming the replacement yet. I can't work out why you say when programming a "never programmed unit", one would only need codes for the existing "OLD" DME. Looking at the WSM the procedure asks for an "old" code even for a brand new unit I assume. Are you saying a brand new DME would in theory have no code and therefore when the PST2 asks for the "NEW" programming code you put in nothing there? Or perhaps a NEW unit comes with it's own DME programming code? And this is the reason why with a USED previously programmed DME, one would need the "old" DME programming code?, which actually becomes the "NEW" DME code in this procedure, if that makes any sense. And then your existing DME would become the "OLD" dme code in this case. Looking at the WSM (paraphrased), it says to do the following with PST2 on a BRAND NEW DME. 1.) read control unit 2.) install dme module 3.) select program control unit 4.) ensure requirements requested are fulfilled 5.) input VIN & confirm 6.) input OLD DME code & confirm (your existing DME's code?) 7.) input NEW DME code & confirm (on a new DME, does it come with a code or would this just be "blank"? I guess on a used DME, this would be the used DME code?, wondering if the old code would work here... or blank... ) 8). input immobilizer code & confirm 9.) then it programs the unit

I highly recommend sticking with the factory OE cable. On the other hand if you don't want to pay the $60 some-odd-whatever for the official part and you're doing the work yourself, I made my own cable with some 4 gauge (not the correct gauge, but it works for me), heat shrink tube, ring terminals, and anti-corrosion grease (which seemed absent from the original setup perhaps because of the protective rubber cover that was also half-disintigrated). My harness turned out to be slightly shorter than the OEM - providing .00000001% less resistence and improving power transfer by .00000001% - and I was able to re-use the corrugated inner duct the original cable was housed in. Almost looks OEM. An interesting note that the guage of the oem wire appears to be "in between" 0/1 gauge and 4 gauge be sure to go with a high quality cable and crimp job if you decide to make your own. Or if you are in the splurging mood and want an upgrade to the factory spec for your 1000 watt stereo system there's always this: http://www.monsterca...11&section=four http://www.monsterca...68&section=four edit: not sure of gauge, but it is bigger than 4.

On my '99 manual 996: This might not be a "legit" way to determine if your transmission mount is bad... but... here's what I did (high risk factor so make sure your jack is SECURE), you wouldn't want your transmission dropping onto the support brace below. Placed a floor jack with small block of wood under the mount (so it only contacts the transmission, not the tranny brace/bracket) and raised the jack ever so slightly, just a half inch at most. Removed the two bolts from the mount. At this point with the weight of the powertrain off the mount and on the floor jack, you can easily poke around at the mount with a screwdriver and see the condition of it. To my surprise the center part of the mount where the bolts go through moved around more freely than I expected, and I was expecting to get some resistance or feel some rigidity there. Basically nothing to keep the weight of the engine/transmission from compressing it all the way to the top at this point. Of course, 11 year old rubber is bound to break down at some point. Started the car up and noticably less vibration from the engine - of course - with only the rear motor mounts and the floor jack at this point holding things to the body. I don't have a new one (yet) to compare it with, but my guess is that a new unit is going to have stiffer rubber and no tears/breaks in the rubber around the outside edges of the mount. Can anyone who's done this comment on the condition of a new mount, is the rubber very pliable, or more rigid as one would expect a rubber mount to be (not a solid mount of course)? I've also read how some people fill their mounts with windshield adhesive to make it more like a solid mount, although I suspect that will do more to increase rigidity and shifting performance, it might make the vibration transfer to the body more apparent.

The pic in jcpr996 's post is the exact part I replaced, and mine is a '99 996, yes. I couldn't find an exact pic of the cable in the parts PDF, I agree the one (15-24) in the diagram does not look exactly the same. It's definatley the cable that goes from the alternator to starter and then off to the remote jump terminal that was corroded on mine (looked exactly like jcpr996's). I actually opted to go with my own cable setup, instead of buying an overpriced battery cable, and have been very happy so far with consistent voltage! Edit: 996 607 019 01 is what I came up with from the parts catalog, and the description is correct - also on Pelican it says that this part may fit other 99-05 996's. "wiring harness with connection point generator starter" Odd though as Loren points out that it shows this part is only for 02 and on X51 cars.

Interesting Wayne. A pelican "branded" replacement, sourced from ln engineering and marked up 100% I presume? j/k! LOL. (all in jest as I love pelican and certainly have spent many paycheck there... tell us more!) I'm not ruling out IMS as a possible fix for the vibration but have to also consider a possible misfire problem, flywheel, or just normal 996 passenger seat shaking at idle... and I'm reading too much into the hype.

I've been chasing down engine vibration in my99 manual 996 for some time now. It's at 70k miles. The vibration is noticable mainly at idle, but I've also noticed some around 70mph which I can attribute to a need for some new rear tires. Other than the vibration the car is running great. Usually when I have it topped off with oil it is slightly less apparent, but still there. I've replaced the engine motor mounts which helped the vibration some and was under the car today to inspect the tranny mount. It is definately shot. With a jack supporting the transmission, and the bolts from the mount removed - I could easily see the mount is worn and not supporting as originally intended. There is a lot of play in the mount and the center part is easy to move around so I'm guessing it's shot, also see a few cracks near the top of the rubber. I'm contemplating dropping the trans to have a new mount pressed in. Also reading about filling the gaps in the mount with windshield sealant, although I'm guessing that is going to make the ride stiffer (of course how much stiffer could it get with PSS10's ??? ) NOW I stumbled on this thread about IMS failure and excess play in worn bearings causing vibrations. While I'm in there would it be advantageous of me to replace the IMS bearing? Chain, guides, adjusters, etc.? Does anyone have a good way to tell if the vibrations I'm seeing and feeling from the engine are caused by play somewhere there shouldn't be? I have a PST2 and Durametric... already looked at camshaft deviation which reads 0 degrees? No fault codes. Not sure where else to look. The crankshaft pulley is noticably wobbling a tiny little bit which worries me. I had a shop do a new clutch and flywheel resurfaced, also a new RMS about 35k miles ago. Oh and I recently swapped the spark plugs and did a compression test which showed all cylinders were in spec... but problem was there previous to this.

Problem Solved! I replaced the power cable (#21/22 in the pic below) that goes from the alternator to the starter and then off to the positive terminal in the engine bay. It was badly corroded at the starter. While I was at it I also replaced the ground stap from engine to body, and the other one from battery to body. Since I had to take the generator and starter out to get at all the leads, I had them bench tested at the parts store. Both had near perfect readings and got a nifty print out on each to go in the maintenance file. Glad that the recently replaced alternator and starter were not DOA. I had to charge the several times drained battery overnight (not the first time I've done this), and now it cranks like a jet engine again. I might have to replace the latest battery sooner than the 3 year warranty due to the alternator not doing it's job because of the badly corroded wires. About $40 worth of new wire from napa saved me a ton vs. the stealer!!! No more 12volt readings during multiple successive long drive cycles! Even with the high beams, air con, rear fog, xm radio, eq, rear defrost, stereo amp, radar detector, subwoofer, head unit, interior lights, blower at full, heat on, radiator fans on high, I could not stress the alternator below 12.8 volts.

Thanks! I'll experiment with some of these measurements. I have been reading on various forums that sometimes the ground strap cables can be suspect (corroded?) on older cars and are the cause of similar problems, but the cables I have seem to be corrosion free and don't see any rust or breaks - the cables are still pliable and not rigid (at least as much as I can see without cutting off the protective sheath). Yesterday when I had the mufflers out to do a compression test and replace spark plugs I noticed what looked to be one of these cables near the rear of the engine passenger side, are there more than one of these on the car? Assuming one at the engine to body and another at the battery to the body, I suppose the one I saw could be the cable for the engine to the body, just want to be sure I know what points to test. Thanks for the tip on the booster cable! I would hope I ruled out the alternator when I replaced it and it had no affect whatsoever. Unless you are saying the original one was bad, and then I replaced it with another bad one?... I guess it is possible. Any ideas how to isolate a bad DME if that is the cause?

My car has developed a strange voltage problem I've been chasing for at least a year now. History of my US 99' 996/C2 -------------------------- Purchased 2007 w/40k miles -------------------------- Starting car: voltage around 12v Warm up to ~190 degrees: voltage is 14 to 14.5v After warm up: voltage steady at 13v for hundreds of miles in a single drive (meter at half way point) Car could sit for 10 days without having to charge. -------------------------- Somewhere around winter of 2008 to present and 68k miles -------------------------- Starting car: voltage drops as low as 10v Warm up to ~190 degrees: voltage is 14 to 14.5v After warm up: voltage is steady at 13v Sometime later during drive: voltage steadily drops, sometimes as low as 12v (I have a pioneer HU that reads voltage and confirms the dash gauge reading) If it sits for more than about 7 days sometimes the battery needs to be charged again. Driving the car every couple days seems to keep enough charge in the battery to avoid the problem above. I've had a couple times where the battery is completely drained and have had to put it on a charger. I've also bump started the car a few times when there isn't any one around to jump it. :-) -------------------------- Things I've tried so far: 2 new batteries, most recent one about 3 months ago. Rebuilt alternator. Replaced starter with new. The voltage seems to dive to around 12 volts when the radiator fans start after the car is hot, perhaps they are on their way out and are sucking excessive voltage? Where to go next?

Thanks, makes sense!

Sorry if this is a duplicate post, I couldn't find this info using search.USA '99 996/C2Changing my spark plugs soon and I'll have the mufflers out/etc.While I'm in there if I can get my tool installed I'm going to do a simple compression test.I have a PST2 and an understanding of how to do the test, but am missing one step, in number 5 - can I pull a fuse or is this something the PST2 can handle? I know it can disable an individual cylinder's injector and spark and that is another way to do a quick rough compression test. What I'm not sure of is if there is a way to disable all of the cylinder's injectors at the same time.Taken from here.1. warm up engine2. remove all the spark plugs so the engine will turn easy.3. block open the throttle wide open4. disable the ignition system to prevent sparks (remove the feed wire to the coil).5. disable the fuel injection (pull pump fuse).6. screw the gauge on with the right adapter in the sparkplug holes.7. crank the engine and listen for about 5 compression strokes(the needle will move as this happans).8. After you are dont cranking a set number of times, crank a second time until the needle stops moving.9. Write down the numbers and repeat these steps in all cylinders

Should the torque on the main lower nut for the motor mount be 64lbs?

I replaced my 99' C2 motor mounts last night. About a 30 minute job. Very easy. And yes, I used the motor as a jacking point while replacing each mount. This drastically helped damper the vibrations, nearly entirely present at warm idle. Manual shifting smoothness is also much improved!!! However there is still a little bit of residual vibration. I'm not sure if it's enough to worry about at this point. I looked at the tranny mount and poked around with it but couldn't determine if it was bad. Visibly with the car started I could see a very slight vibration and the mount appeared to be doing it's job of "soaking it up". Any way to test the tranny mount without removing the transmission (and mount)?

Thanks for the corrections. My posts are edited. I was reading through a ton of posts and apparently got a few things mixed up.

One thing I forgot. Does anyone know if I have to complete a drive cycle before the secondary change over valve/vacuum operates the resonance flap? After replacing AOS, clearing some CEL codes and having the battery disconnected for a while I have a lot of frowns in the DME check and OBD ready menus in PST2. I am thinking maybe I have to complete a drive cycle?

I found the hose. It is number 19 in the pic above. There is not a part number from Porsche but it is a 420mm hose. It helps the change over valve controls the resonance flap. The changeover valve kicks in and closes the flap at certain RPMs by use of vacuum. When I removed this hose it broke in another place. I tried to repair it with some heat shrink tube and electrical tape but it is only temporary. I will probably have to find a replacement hose with similar I.D. since Porsche does not sell a replacment. Unless I want to keep the flap closed or open all the time. It connects to the back end of the intake manifold (middle rear tube) in the picture. As for the heat protection I managed to tie wrap the old pieces to the hoses.

Last time I looked into this the IBM 600E is a good laptop because is color, faster, supports windows 3.11. Parts for and the laptop itself are very cheap right now on ebay.

Thanks. I do a lot of shopping on pelican. Also sunset. Ebay. Google. I guess what I'm looking for is some DIY and technical advice as to what some of these parts do, maybe I'll move this post to the general discussion. There is a small chance pelican support rep could find these parts, but they may not be able to tell me what they do. I'm guessing if the parts are not listed in the catalog, they won't be orderable.

996 MY 99' C2 Manual US. 1.) Does anyone know what the change-over valve does? Do I need to worry if one of the tubes attached to it is broken? One of the tiny hard plastic tubes attached to the 996 605 123 01 (change-over valve) is split clean in half. There are two hoses going into the change-over valve. The change over valve (whatever that does) mounts pretty much directly above the alternator onto the intake manifold. I put some duct tape on the tube to hold the two halves together but doubtful it is doing much except keep the broken half of the tube from escaping into the engine bay. I have no idea where these tubes go, and am thinking it could be close to impossible to replace without dropping the motor. Anyhow, I thought it was interesting that the part these tiny hoses is listed in the catalog, but the hoses themselves are not as far as I can see. Any ideas what these hoses and change-over valve are for and/or have a part number? The tubes are way to small for an inline coupler. Any DIY suggestions? Should I worry one of the tubes is broken? Here's a pic of the change-over valve. 2.) Over the left intake manifold there are a bunch of coolant hoses that are protected by a heat resistant wrap/blanket type thing that is supposed to velcro together. My heat protector wrap thingy is completely disintigrated. Does anyone know what the part number is or have a DIY suggestion? Heat resistant tape? 3.) There is another heat wrap that is completely gone for some more hoses directly in front of the left intake manifold. Can't find that part either. DIY suggestions are welcome. Thanks in advance!