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logray

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Everything posted by logray

  1. logray
    Coolant does in fact run through the AOS. The AOS are known to last 30-70k, although ymmv - a widely discussed weak point of the 996 - they are inexpensive but in a hard to reach spot. They are a pain to replace. Having done it both ways, I recommend doing the replacement by removing the transmission rather than going through the top and ripping out the manifolds/etc. Going through the top much more opportunity to install a hose incorrecty or not get a good seating. It could also be a bad hose or clamp.
  2. logray
    Pop out problem? http://www.gboxweb.com/detent.html
  3. logray
    Thanks Loren, I am thinking those are oil change quantities. Most oil changes don't involve pulling the oil pan, removing the chain tensioners, ims bearing, then allowing the engine to sit for several days to drain. I definitely add "a little at a time" until the dipstick reads at full... 10 quarts of liquid gold Mobil-1 5w40 though... that's where I was a little concerned and started looking more towards engineering specs in the work shop manual rather than oil change specs. edit: sorry, 1999 3.4 996. edit: the bottles of mobil 1 say 946ml which is .99 quarts. Guessing that I'm losing a few .01's in there not letting it drain completely. If I could lick it out and spit it into the engine I would at these prices. In any case the 10 bottles I'm guessing perhaps .95 quarts of them drained. So that would be more like 9.5 quarts and according to the dipstick still looks like it needs another .2 to .3 quarts.
  4. logray
    Is this correct? From the WSM it says 10.25 (2.22) imp. gal Is that 10.25 US quarts? I recently had the engine draining for days while doing some work on it (RMS, IMS, AOS boot, Oil + Filter, Oil Pan Inspection and Reinstall, New Trans Mount). Oil pan was removed, filter out for days, more puked out of the ims tube, chain tensioners as well - and it basically had a lot of time to "drip dry". She took nearly every drop of 10 quarts (after a good warm up and carefully checking dipstick) and looks like it could use more, perhaps another .25 to .3 quarts. The on board computer says it is now about 2/3's full (guessing the low mark is about 1 quart low) but I always trust the dipstick over the OBC. Had it out for a 10 mile drive, everything looks good. Just not used to adding that much oil after a change, largest oil change I've done maybe 8.75 ish quarts tops (really anal about drain times and having a warmed engine while draining), anyone else encountered this before? Thanks.
  5. logray
    Check out this post, that has a link to a site with the specs... other than that get creative at your local hardware store with a 3" outside diameter PVC fitting and another section of pipe to fit inside as a stop... there are other threads out there describing what parts to get. Then you can gently tap in place with a dead blow until it reaches the stop. Optionally place a plank of wood on the back side of the tool, drill some holes that will fit into the shaft, and use bolts to draw the RMS in similar to how the factory tool does it.
  6. logray
    Hah, that's what she said!
  7. logray
    If you want to mess with throttle response by reprogramming your DME, albeit probably not 60 HP gain - perhaps only a few maybe - try GIAC, softronic, there are others too.
  8. logray
    I don't think that website does a good job at all describing how they got the new seal in. In fact, one picture looks like they are pounding it in directly with a mallot. Yikes. I also laughed at their use of a lip sealer tool to get it around the shaft, although perhaps the plastic lip installer tool included with every new RMS was not available at the time of the write up. I'm no expert, but I would NOT use their website as a guide for the actual seal installation, but they do a fairly good job at describing the tear down and install of everything else. The new RMS has to go in very precicely (to very tight tolerances) and as round as possible to do it's job. A mallot by itself just won't do the trick. A lot of people have made their own tools to gently "tap" the new seal in, using the same measurements as the genuine tool. This particular tool is by far my favorite, although it might be over engineered. The more elegant and simple solutions I've seen achieve the same using a 3" pvc fitting with another section of pipe cut to precise length that fits inside as a stop. That being said, the factory tool "draws" the seal in, whereas the home made tools I've seen require tapping it in place gently (although I suppose one could also build a tool to draw it in as well). Just my 2 cents.
  9. logray
    I've got the evo air setup and the whine actually decreased, of course, then again that could be the fabspeed mufflers droning out the sewing machine noise.
  10. logray
    Depends on how long you left it running without a belt on, if the car overheated the damage might already be done. Important functions like water pump, etc. say that an engine with no belt or belt that is not taught enough will not last very long. If the damaged belt was still on and doing it's function and the accessory pulleys were still rotating, chances are replacing the idler pulley, appropriate bolts (if the case or threads are not damaged), and a new belt and you'll be fine. Also it sounds like you have a boxster, not a 996, you are in the carrera forum.
  11. logray
    I sourced a new OE mount and am trying to find a shop that will press it in. So far all the machine and trans shops I'm calling are shaking their heads. They get nervous when they hear that the mount is in the transmission and don't want the liability. The local dealer is also standing me up. I'm considering trying to press it in myself with a large vice that has jaws that open to 12". Then a 4" section of 2.5" steel pipe with outside diameter of 2.875" to serve as a ram (exact o/d of mount), and a receiver on the opposite side of the mount made from another 4" section of 3" steel pipe with o/d of 3.5" that will butt up against the transmission case. Edit: the vice did not have sufficient force, but a floor jack did. Don't ruin your vice. Then a couple more long pieces of steel pipe to serve as larger levers on the shop vice, some safety glasses, perhaps a torch. If that doesn't work I might try what you've suggested and others have done and cut out the inside of the old mount, and fill it with windshield sealant - one way or the other.
  12. logray
    I had the exact same problem here and my fixes are documented in this thread.
  13. logray
    So in other words, once the ims bearing and tensioners are back in, two full cranks (720 degrees) and the marks I made in pen should line up again?
  14. logray
    Wayne I can only guess that a new tool is in our future! I chickened out a little but want to make sure this is as trouble free as possible. That and since I'm still waiting on the bearing... I checked the WSM and it says to install a new sealing ring on the ims shaft flange, you have to roughly: 1.) lock @ TDC. 2.) turn primary chain tensioner out of the left hand crankcase. 3.) turn secondary chain tensioner out of the right hand cylinder head (1-3) 4.) then proceed to remove the shaft flange. So even for the sanctioned procedure to remove the hub flange there is no mention of removing the chain tensioner for 4-6 behind the A/C. I removed the cam caps and marked current position (note that for some positions there are already marks on the block and end of the shaft indicating you are at TDC). Some of the caps are a real bear to get at. Hey does anyone know if the caps go on dry or should I put some sealant around the outside lip? It seems to be a pressure fitting and might not require sealant.
  15. logray
    Interesting, didn't notice this wear on the ims flange cover until I cleaned it up. Someone ran it with low oil? Also a few bits of what looks to be sealant inside the ims bearing tube placed to right of pitted area for your viewing pleasure... New RMS went in. With my custom tool.
  16. logray
    Hey would you look at that! 4-6 tensioner!. I can see how people skip this one. The A/C definately comes out or loosened off to get at this. Funny thing is I can get an extension in there, but the 32mm socket would be impossible without moving things. On the flip side I've been innundated with people who have been successful with the ims replacement without touching it.
  17. logray
    Have you seen this 2nd gear "pop out fix"? Sounds different from what you describe though. http://www.gboxweb.com/detent.html
  18. logray
    I'm sure you'll find it if this is what the problem is. There are a lot of components in the electrical system and you can eliminate them one by one, or just go agro like I did and replace everything! Shoot first and ask questions later. :-)
  19. logray
    Sorry for my confusion, I thought you were recommending the new style tensioner? It sounds like you had issues with the new, perhaps because you did not replace all three at the same time? And the old tensioner lasted you 105K? Yep that's where I'm at - I agree on trying to release tension on 4-6 - like it was said earlier - extra insurance when I start banging around on the bearing and shaking things around a bit.
  20. logray
    I got a pm from a guy that replaced the IMS on his 996 without touching the 4-6 tensioner. Then again it sounds like he might be more of a gambling man than I - as he didn't pull the caps to verify timing or lock out the cams. Over on this boxster thread there are two people that said they did not pull the third tensioner, and they seem to suggest the most important one to releave tension is the crankcase tensioner (passenger side). "...One must remove the chain tensioner on the back right side leading from the IMS to the cam shaft as well as the chain tensioner from the crank shaft to the IMS..." and "...one each for the chains from IMS to the heads, and one for the chain from the crank to the IMS. If you had loosened the tensioner for the IMS drive chain, this would have been pretty easy..." and "...loosened the two chain tensioners (the Crank-IMS one and the IMS-Cam one, on the transmission side of the engine). I left the tensioner on the opposite side alone..." In that thread they (including Jake Raby) also go on to explain that the damage is done once the hub flange is removed... if the tensioners have not been removed or relieved of tension. I would think if I could at least get to the 4-6 tensioner and give it a few spins to release the tension (as recommended by Wayne's pelican DIY versus removal - which even he does not describe losening a third), I would be better off. I'll poke around today and see if I can get to it without dropping the engine.
  21. logray
    I hear you about precautions to avoid total melt down the first time I turn the key, I suppose if I can get to 4-6 and remove it - then why not. Removing the caps to verify timing, extra insurance. For the best insurance of locking the cams out I've looked at this zdmak tool (engine installed?) and this one (engine removed?), but seriously $200? I'm would lean towards making my own tool as well.
  22. logray
    I would also check/replace the battery condition and battery ground to chassis. Engine to chassis ground strap is right behind the rear side of the passenger side rear wheel, an 8-10" 2 or 3 gauge black cable. If you have a jumper cable handy, remove this cable and replace with the jumper cable and retest. Or a new battery ground cable from local parts store might cost $5-10 at most (but might not be the right gauge). edit: gauge is thicker than 4, not sure what size...
  23. logray
    Thanks Mike. So your advice is, even though I've already removed the ims hub cover, proceed to tear apart a/c compressor/etc. and remove the upper 4-6 before proceeding. Then pull the bearing and replace. I am now heavily leaning towards pulling the caps at this point - even though I didn't hear anything "chain skipping like" while removing the tensioners - once I've got it back together in order to check the timing. I guess the worst that could happen with this "insurance" by pulling the caps is that I verify the timing is off, and either attempt that procedure myself or bring it to a shop to get it timed - so I don't blow it up and make a small oops into a huge one. At the expense of a few caps. Make sense?
  24. logray
    I could certainly welcome the advice before proceeding, but I "think" I might be ok here not removing 4-6 based on a couple threads...??? http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?/topic/29492-my-diy-nightmare/ http://forums.rennlist.com/rennforums/996-forum/549133-im-going-in-alone-lne-retrofit-bearing-7.html (sorry for post to another forum) quoted from above "Are you replacing all the tensioners?... [reply] Tensioners: Not sure yet. I really want to get it back together But I will have to make this call after I pull them. Even so you can not get to all of them, so in a way, whats the point?" I guess maybe he didn't realize he could get to it, you can "get to" anything with a certain amount of time and effort. And this PIC confirming that I've removed B and C for the crank and 1-3.
  25. logray
    Gotcha. I am actually leaning towards not replacing the tensioners as well, price and lead time being the biggest issues for me. I read some other posts where people have replaced their IMS bearing by only removing the two easily accessible tensioners. At this point since I've removed my ims cover after only removing 1-3 (drivers) and the main tensioner (passenger) and leaving 4-6 intact (top of head) - for anyone who has done this procedure before - do you think I need to a.) retime at this point (I'm now leaning toward pulling the caps to check timing before firing up), b.) should I proceed to try to remove the third tensioner for 4-6, or c.) just leave 4-6 in place and proceed with pulling the bearing (as I've seen others have had success doing this). For what it's worth I didn't hear any suspicious chain skipping noises during removal and the ims bearing cover came off with ease and I can also easily slide it back on, although I see the ims tube might be slightly off center towards the drivers side and up slightly.
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