logray

Another good tip is if you suspect the alternator, take it to your local auto parts store. Most reputable and trustworthy stores can bench test it in a few minutes and tell you if you need a new one. Some will even give you a nifty print out showing you how it performed. It is pretty easy to remove the alternator on the 996... just a few bolts and some elbow grease.

Does anyone have a source or part number for those mat clips? I have the older style floormats that wander all over the place... clips are sewn into the oem mats, but no place to clip into on the seat.

Hello! If any PST2 or PIWIS owners are interested, I have a $50 USD offer up in the For Sale/Wanted Forum for some "mail order" DME (ECU) programming services. Thanks! http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php/topic/37410-piwispst2-522-dme-programming-request/

My 996 99' C2 does the same thing, fresh synthetic gear oil and a warmed up gear box tends to make it much less noticable.

EDIT. SOLVED. YMMV. On my 99' 996 C2, here's what I discovered. The window up/down switch uses pin 3 for ground and pin 5 for the night time illumination. So if you use a window switch be sure to observe these different pin-outs. Also according to the work shop manual pin 3 on the switch is for ground, NOT pin 4 like in this DIY!!! Again, your situation might be different based on your model year, you should always confirm with a multi meter and work shop manual. -------- Hey all. I just did this mod using a window switch. It works great, but the dashboard illumination doesn't work right when I turn the lights on. With just the illumination wires plugged in the led inside the switch comes on fine when I turn on the car lights. However as soon as I plug in the three spoiler wires to the switch the spoiler control doesn't work until I unplug the two illumination wires. I have a second window switch and it does the same thing. I triple checked all of my wiring. Does anyone know (or guess) that perhaps this is because I'm using a window switch and not the "sanctioned" spoiler switch with part numbers referenced in this thread and DIY? TIA!

Hi there. It takes guts, but yes, the trans mount can be done as a DIY. Here's how I did it. http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php/topic/28781-diy-for-transmission-mount-rr/page__p__180226#entry180226

Your wife is insane. When I was that age I had too much fun exploring the limits of my VW Quantum. After I wrecked it a few times I also enjoyed figuring out how to keep it on the road with parts from the local scrap yard that I could afford. And the many speeding tickets... A sports car such as a 996 in the hands of a new driver is like arming someone with a gun without teaching them how to properly use it. When your son is in his early twenties after a few years of driving under their belt... definitively better suited for a college graduation gift. My two cents, buy him a VW

Hi there, check out this thread.

Don't take this as a flame, sometimes writing makes things come across the "wrong" way. :cheers: However I believe you are mistaken regarding the triple-square bolt on the transmission we are speaking of. The triple square bolt on the transmission is different from the rest of the bolts you speak of (flywheel, drain plug (some cars are allen), etc). In my experience they are actually torx (6-point), not triple-quare (12 point). This is my experience with the 996, but I find the 12 point XZN triple-square to be relatively unique on the vehicle. More common that I see on this car are phillips, allen, torx, allen, hex, and external torx. I agree completely about using the correct tools (and I did offer that as a possibility earlier in this thread above your post), I was merey offering different ideas if he doesn't have the tool handy and doesn't want to invest in a set because he hasn't encountered a triple-square bolt head yet. He explained that his triple square bolt was already damaged beyond usefulness (whether he did it or someone else). So I suppose you are right he should source another triple square bolt and go purchase the appropriate tool for that one bolt. Let's not try to think outside the box. Who knows, perhaps he didn't have an allen set either, in which case my suggestion would not be useful to him. I understand that bolt head configurations differ through the years, so what I've enountered might be different than what you've encountered on your customer's cars. I wansn't trying to be tacky, he said he wanted to offer something in return for the advice, and thanks to Loren he created the reputation system. Why else would it be there? Perhaps it wasn't the best idea after all? I was merely trying to promote Loren's work. I am not by any means crawling around for a reputation. I could actually care less.

Yep, definatley about 10-15mm lower than stock. During corner balancing, I adjusted the rears nearly all the way up, and the fronts lower to give the car a very agressive forward rake look. With the rears any lower than that, I found it a bit too close for comfort over most speeds bumps. :-)

JFP I'm not understanding your logic of why you would want to provide a "negative" feedback. I agree with you that for other triple square (a.k.a. XZN) fasteners in the car it is wise to use the right tool, I merely presented this option in lieu of spending another $25-50 on a triple square socket set for just that ONE bolt - or perhaps $10 on just a single socket, if he already has a hex head socket, to replace the triple square bolt with a hex head bolt.. There were two solutions provided in my posts, one of which agrees with your "only" solution provided (which is the source of my confusion about your illogical post). 1.) He can replace his damaged bolt with one that he already has a tool for just few dollars (for example this hex head one). Of course, if he doesn't have an allen/hex head socket set or individual socket, he would need to purchase one of those as well in which case he may be better off replacing his original XZN bolt and source a tool for that. 2.) He can buy a new bolt of the same XZN configuration as the original AND a tool to match (which it does not sound like he had the socket).

Good work. Save yourself some more time and money down the road and buy a new allen bolt of the same size to replace the damaged one. Then you don't have to buy a triple square socket set (unless you want to buy a new triple square bolt to put back in, then you'll need the triple square socket set for perhaps one of the only bolts on the entire car with that configuration). Oh, and you can click on the '+ 0' sign in the lower right hand side of a post if you found it to be useful. ;)

1.) Craftsman bolt out if it is totally stripped.. Removing the pressure per previous post is a good idea too. http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00952061000P?vName=Gifts&cName=Dad&sName=All&sid=IDx20070921x00003a&ci_src=14110944&ci_sku=00952061000P 2.) Order a new allen bolt to replace the triple square bolt. Same bolt on a 996, I bought a cv joint bolt of the same size for about $2.00.. You'll thank yourself next time you remove it and have the right tool. http://www.pelicanparts.com/cgi-bin/smart/more_info.cgi?pn=900-067-123-09-M260&catalog_description=CV%20Joint%20Bolt%2C%2010%20x%2050mm%2C%20each%2C%20Front%2FRear%2C%20911%20C2%20%281994-98%29%2C%20Rear%20C4%2FTurbo%20%281994-98%29 Measure the size of the old bolt to be certain.

Thanks, I found out the problem. I referenced the work shop manual to find out what the proper amperage was and remembered that I was troubleshooting an electrical issue the other day and I mixed up where two fuses went. I accidentially placed fuse D6 (heater/air con) which is supposed to be 30amp into E7 (air con panel) which is supposed to be 7.5amp (and it actually had a 10 amp in there previously when I bought the car... interesting now that makes me want to go throuh the rest of the fuses and make sure I have the correct amperage at each position). Put the correct size fuse in each position and it works perfect again. Thanks!

1999 C2 996 USA. When I turn the blower fan up past half way the fuse D6 (air conditioning/heating) blows like clockwork. The blower fan stops, but everything else continues to work. I've got a steady supply of replacement 10 amp fuses to pop in (is it supposed to be a 7.5 amp?), but I don't have a steady supply of patience for problems like this when it is 100 F outside. Before I start tearing things apart, reading codes and so forth to diagnose an electrical problem or perhaps the failing or clogged blower fan causing excess resistince I searched through the forum and found a couple suggestions like swapping the relay for the blower. "block 10 the fan, we switch it for the suspect relay in block 18 the blower. (they wre the same types of relays) Like magic the blower fan comes to life!" Thanks in advance if you've dealt with this before!

Hmmm... actual values such as voltage don't show up. I think I'm missing a pin. Or maybe I need to ground pin 5 on OBD side? Edit: Nope, that didn't do it. I'm at a loss here. PST2 or Durmetric won't read values such as voltage with the DME wired in this way. Either I'm missing a pin to the DME or something else isn't right.

Ok, got it, the first post has the details, I'm not sure if some of these are unnecessary or not. This is enough for Durametic to read a 5.2.2 dme when it's sitting on your table connected to a good solid 12 volt power supply.

Thanks, I've read/heard that the 5.2 is very similar to the 5.2.2. The strange thing is when I turn the key to the on position, I don't get voltage on pin 56, so I am thinking I'm missing something...

There is constant power on pin 26 but probably also another pin "switched" to sense ignition right? Perhaps I don't have the correct diagram, could this be Motronic 5.2 and not 5.2.2 I am looking at? I am seeing two grounds going to the DME (55 ignition and 6 ground terminal), although 56 shows "terminal 15" on my diagram... According to the diagram above and these posts, I think 56 is "ignition/key on power" since on my diagram it shows terminal 15. http://www.durametri...orsche-993.aspx (shows pin 1/obd as terminal 15) http://www.renntech....and-connectors/ (shows ping 56 as terminal 15) I think I understand what you are saying though, I might not need pin 55 ignition ground, since there is already pin 6 ground.

Hello, I'm trying to create a suitable harness so I can power a DME from a bench supply and then connect a durametric or PST2 to the DME without it being in car. I have the work shop manual with the wiring diagram for the 5.2.2 motronic and have located this post describing what each pin is for. Am I over simplifying or does this look right, I think I might be missing a few things? Ground DME pin 6 (chassis) & 55 (ignition) OBD pin 4 Bench supply ground 12 Volt Constant DME pin 26 OBD pin 16 12 volt (13.8v) bench supply power Ignition (terminal 15) DME pin 56 OBD pin 1 12 volt (13.8v) bench supply power Programming DME pin 60 OBD pin 12 K-LINE DME pin 88 OBD pin 7 edit: the above worked - I was able to read the DME using Durametric while sitting on my table connected to a 12v power supply.

Are you sure it's oil? If it is, there are a few areas to check on that side. Most likely the infamous air oil seperator (AOS). There are oil lines on the top and bottom of it, and the bottom of it also has a rubber boot that can leak. Cam solenoid cover (above variocam logo). Those would be my 1st guesses and places to look. These things would likely throw CEL codes: spark tubes, case crack. Do you park the car at an angle towards the drivers side? Could be oil pan, oil drain plug, but doubtful. Unlikely to be the oil filter on the other side, but if the car is enough an incline and leak big enough - perhaps. But I would check under the car - the mating between trans and engine and see if perhaps that leak is actually somewhere else. More common causes such as RMS or IMS flange.

Shameless plug to a clutch kit for your car I am selling: http://www.renntech....-kit-99-01-996/ :rolleyes: (includes new oem clutch, pressure plate, and throw out bearing)

Hello, Do you mean the oil filter cover removal tool? If so, VERY gently tap with a rubber mallot (preferably tap on the wrench attached to it), it will drop or free from the filter housing.

Thanks. Tried it that way too and got the following result: (Above procedure but with the old/new codes reversed: comes up with a status bar 1 to 100, but then goes off shortly thereafter with a "[46] Test step aborted") I will try again to make sure I entered everything in exactly right.

Interesting. I tried reversing the learning codes (old and new) and after selecting the OBDII map the programming screen comes up with a status bar 1 to 100, but then goes off shortly thereafter with a "[46] Test step aborted". I tried putting in all wrong codes and get "[25] Test step aborted". Perhaps I have the procedure wrong. Connect PST2 to car, turn on ignition. Select read control units Turn off ignition (I've tried skipping this step) Remove existing DME Connect new (used) DME Turn on ignition Turn on battery charger Press f12 to reconnect to DME Select Program control unit Enter in my car's VIN Enter in the "old" dme code that is for the DME that was in the car before I removed it Enter in the "new" dme code for the DME that is currently in the car Enter in the "old" immo code that is for the DME that was in the car before I removed it Enter in the "new" immo code that is for the DME that is currently in the car Select the OBDII map and press F12. At this point this is where I see the various error messages. Above procedure: no status bar, and error "[21] Test step aborted" Above procedure but with the old/new codes reversed: comes up with a status bar 1 to 100, but then goes off shortly thereafter with a "[46] Test step aborted" Above procedure but with totally incorrect codes: "[25] Test step aborted"